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About KongaMan

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  1. Dual master cylinders weren't OE, either. Should we all take them out? IMHO, a black cover against a black battery on the positive cable is about as innocuous as it gets, and it allows for much cleaner cable runs. And OE or not, two black cables is just stupid. It would be interesting to know just how much space there is between the outboard terminal and the hood. Someone should put a glob of PlayDoh on top of the battery and slam the hood. Are we really thousandths of an inch away from catastrophe? Or can we avoid that by adjusting the bumpers accordingly?
  2. In these parts, it's more like "deaf, dumb, and blind".
  3. Ya musta missed the part about the clamp cover... Besides, the underside of my hood is painted, and as numerous threads about grounding issues show, paint is a great insulator. 😜
  4. That light steering also allows you to drive with your leg while opening a beer.
  5. You coddle and hug a woman. You drive a car.
  6. https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/arvada-1966-buick-great-dale-housecar/6845904234.html
  7. The "engineers who designed it" are the ones who put the positive terminal next to the fender. And the car was 14 years old when I bought it. I would hope that the battery was replaced at some point. Would the cables have been changed? Could've been; people do all kinds of goofy stuff to their cars. If so, though, the positive cable was replaced with a dead ringer for a factory cable (and the clamp seemed awfully buggered to be a replacement). Never understood why both cables would be black, though, when other Buicks of that era came with red positive cables. Or maybe that would explain a change: PO also thought that two black cables was a dumb idea and swapped one out for red. Maybe the dealer didn't have a longer red cable so they turned the battery to make do. Or maybe they installed the wrong cable at the factory. It wouldn't be the only factory screw-up on the car. Who knows? All I know is I've got a red Buick cable on the outboard position, and no intentions of changing that. A $4 clamp cover seems to be a adequate prophylactic and far cheaper than a new cable or battery. As an aside, I bought a pair of NOS cables for the car way back when. Never installed them because they were both black. Even then, that seemed a bit ridiculous, when I knew that other contemporary cars had red positive cables. I saw them a couple of months ago, still in the boxes.
  8. I dunno. Documents notwithstanding, I know what I see. Since I didn't buy the car new, I cannot speak with certitude as to its history in the 14 years before I bought it. However, I have never changed the cables, they are identical to cables I know to be factory originals, and the red positive cable will not reach to the inboard position on a battery that has been turned around, let alone when tucked under the hold-down bolt. IIRC, it would reach on a straight shot to a 27F -- which is a cleaner look anyway. Could the cables have been replaced? Sure -- but the last time this was discussed, there were others who said their cables wouldn't reach, either. IMHO, irrespective of the cables, buy a battery with Ford terminals or a cap for the cable clamp. Cables run over the battery look like crap. But then, so do crossed cables.
  9. You might want to elaborate on exactly you mean by "POS".
  10. There are two main boxes that will fit the Riviera. The 600 series box was originally used on smaller cars, but is interchangeable with the stock box. The stock box on the Riviera is the larger 800. Most of the available info on quick ratio boxes covers the small boxes (for jazzing up Chevelles, etc.), because that's where the interest lies. Reliable, complete info on quick ratio 800 boxes is almost impossible to find, presumably because those boxes were found on the larger cars, they weren't widely available in quick ratios to begin with, and there aren't many folks trying to turn a land yacht into road machine. In general: the factory ratio is 17.5:1. A 15:1 box was available as a factory option, but they're very hard to find. Cadillac used a 16-13:1 variable ratio box for years that is a drop-in replacement. This is the box that most rebuilders recommend for the large cars; you can find one of them fairly easily. If you're going to buy a box, make sure you know what you're getting. First, make sure it's an 800 box and not the smaller 600. Second, get the ratio (that is the defining characteristic of a quick ratio box, no?). The ratio is a set number that is easy to calculate; we're not grading on a curve here. Get the number and not a word (i.e. "quick" is an evasion, not an answer). Third, ask about the valve and the stub shaft. The thickness of the shaft (which is usually integrated into the valve assembly) defines the responsiveness, or how far you have to turn the wheel before the tires move. Finally, make sure it's compatible with the stock rag joint and hoses.
  11. I think it's been well established that pictures in brochures do not necessarily reflect production vehicles. In any event, my (presumably) factory cable will not connect to a positive terminal in that location.
  12. There's more to it than routing cables: - Original cables may not be long enough to connect to a battery that's turned around (mine aren't). - Reversing the terminals while keeping them away from the grill means a different battery (27 vs. 27F).
  13. Check the tires, change the fluids, fill it with gas, and drive it.
  14. Dunno if that's correct so much as advisable. That is, it's not the way it came from the factory.