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About KongaMan

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  1. https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/buick/special/2230129.html Do the math.
  2. If you want a stock 36 Buick, this may not be the best place to start. If that's your unshakeable goal, your best bet might be to wash it, vacuum it, get it running, and sell it for seed money to put yourself on a cheaper, faster, less challenging, and more rewarding path. OTOH, wash it, vacuum it, get it running, and drive the crap out of it might provide entertainment for the summer. Then sell it.
  3. It's a bolt-in add-on -- but make sure you get the accompanying filler panels. The armrest itself is only one of the pieces you need.
  4. Follow the money. I don't know what Hemmings charges for an auction listing or what they take as their cut of a sale, but it's likely that the latter at least is a whole lot more than they get from a standard classified ad. As such, it's understandable why they'd promote the auctions even to the point of cannibalizing other revenue. Which is not a defense of the ethics behind the decision, but it might explain the reasoning. At some point, you have to crunch the numbers: how much do you spend vs. how much do you reap. Are you getting less bang for your buck now?
  5. Everyone has their favorite Jesus Juice, but I've always been partial to Marvel Mystery Oil for accelerated cleaning of a possibly gunked up engine. One quart along with fresh oil and a new filter, then (this is important) drive the crap out of it. Nothing's going to work in a cold, stopped engine; repeated extended runs at high revs and hot temps are the key. If the oil turns black, drain and redo. Of course, it also helps to manually remove sludge if needed and possible before treatment. You can clean out your pan and rockers a lot faster with a spoon than with detergent oil or additives.
  6. You might think it should be the painter asking where he can find them.
  7. Given that the wire wheel covers are cheap and ubiquitous, I guess the question is, "Why?".
  8. Put a wrench on the crankshaft and turn it by hand. See if you can isolate the noise, and look at the rockers to see if they all rise and fall the same.
  9. Get the wife's turkey baster and remove some fluid. Fire it up and slowly turn the wheel lock to lock a few times (but don't hold it hard against the stops). When it starts to grind, add more fluid. Repeat until you don't get to the point that it grinds, then top off.
  10. The upper ball joints were not originally a replacement item from Buick. That is, they were sold as an assembly with the upper control arm. As a result, it's unclear to what degree they were ever available as a standalone part from Moog, TRW, etc. If you have the old ball joints, Rare Parts will rebuild them for you. IIRC, the cost is the same they charge for "new" parts; something like $85 each. The advantage of doing that (expensive as it may be) is that you know what you're using for a core. If you buy one of their off the shelf parts (which is often just another part they've rebuilt), you don't know what they started with. To that point, I bought a pair of inner tie rod ends from Rare Parts for the 64. One had standard threads, the other had metric(!) threads. No idea what was going on there.
  11. You don't need to tear the whole front end apart to replace the upper ball joint. Pull the wheel, break the ball joint loose from the spindle (but don't remove the nut), put the wheel back on, put the car on the ground, then pull the control arm from the top. Yeah, it's still a PITA, but at least you don't have to mess with the springs. And yeah, I would fire up on Kanter about that. Dunno if torn boots means the ball joints themselves are bad, but it doesn't inspire confidence. If you're feeling lucky, maybe you can find new (better) boots. Trouble is, the upper ball joint is not a stock item thess days. The only people who carry them are the specialty suppliers (who probably all get them from the same Chinese factory) and Rare Parts (who will charge you an arm and a leg for refurbed or overstock parts).