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About KongaMan

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  1. Buy and try; there are no specs which show low budget design (which is the issue here; the 1157 is a dual-circuit bulb, but they're cutting corners by making some of the individual LEDs do double duty).
  2. Dunno if this is much help, but I had a bad pinion bearing and leaking axle seal in a different vehicle. I called Rearend Specialties and they quoted me $800 for the bearing and another $400 to replace the axle bearings and seals. I thought that was bit much, so I bought the parts (~$125), a 20 ton press from Harbor Freight ($120), and an inch-lb torque wrench on eBay ($30) and did it myself. I had to make a fixture to hold the yoke while I torqued the crap out of it, but I figure that I saved a bunch of money, I now own the tools, and when you start figuring the hassle of dropping off and picking up the car and the 3-day turnaround, I saved a bunch of time as well. Having said that, they do have a real good reputation. And because it’s always good to spend other folks’ money... If they pull the carrier, they’ll have to pop the axles out. As long as they’re out, you might consider new bearings and seals. It will be a lot easier (read: cheaper) to do it at the same time, and after 55 years there’s a good chance that there’s a little wear and tear on something. This may be completely off the deep end, but you might ask about the feasibility of adding a drain plug to the casing. Not that you change the fluid on a regular basis, but it’s an absolute PITA to do so with stock setup.
  3. Use standard 30A Bosch auto relays. They’re available everywhere, and there are scads of plugs, sockets, and mounting paraphernalia for them.
  4. If you're swapping out sealed beams for some newer, high power lamps, you can jigger the wiring to use the inboard lights as DRLs and use the outboard lights as headlights. You won't lose any illumination by doing this. In fact, you'll probably see a marked improvement because the new lamps are so much brighter than the old ones. IIRC, there's a schematic for this posted somewhere around here. It's still recommended to use relays for your lights even with LEDs, as the voltage loss through the longer, smaller factory wire will degrade the brightness somewhat.
  5. Seems that his title is misleading. It is not that an 1157 LED won't work; it is that this specific LED won't work due to its internal circuity. It seems similar to an issue which was discussed earlier re LED turn signals on a pre-war Buick. The solution is simple: buy better LEDs.
  6. If there's an online listing, it would really help to have a link. Don't worry, no one is going to buy it out from under you. BTW, "paint needs touchup" isn't that far from "needs repaint".
  7. Did you check the fuel pressure and flow? It may be a crippled fuel pump.
  8. If you know this guy well and can sweet talk him, put his drive shaft in your car and go for a spin.
  9. Seems that the vibration occurs only when the rear wheels are rotating. If that's correct, try dropping the drive shaft and running the engine//transmission up to speed. If you've got the vibration, look forward. If not, concentrate on the rear end and axles. You might also closely inspect the rear control arm bushings and track bar bushings. Loose parts can manifest themselves in strange ways with different resonant frequencies and what-not. And look carefully for parts that might be rubbing on the frame. If you've got the guts ( ), go under the car when it's running and the vibration is present and start grabbing stuff (although probably not the wheels or driveshaft) to see if you can feel where it's coming from.
  10. And therein lies the problem, although that's not exclusive to this car. You don't buy a car like this to save it or because it's rare, you have to buy it because you want and will enjoy this specific car -- because that's the only way you're going to get any payoff from the project.
  11. Bingo. People want to replace rather than repair. Some guy buys a car off Craigslist that has been sitting in a garage for 15 years covered in boxes and he wonders why it won't stop on a dime. So he condemns the braking system and the engineering behind it without ever learning how or how well it works and decides to replace it all with disc brakes. Here's an alternative: new master cylinder, 3 new brake hoses, 4 new wheel cylinders, 2 sets of brake shoes, 4 drums turned, 1 quart of DOT3. $225 and a Saturday afternoon, and all of a sudden you've got pretty good brakes and a lot better understanding of how the car was designed.
  12. Try rotating your tires or swapping them out one at a time with the spare.