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KongaMan

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About KongaMan

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  1. I win! Vandalism would've been shoving a blade through his sidewall, breaking off a mirror, running a key down the side, or pushing a cart into his door. This was non-destructive; a turn of the valve (it was still in the stem) and he's back in business. Minus the air, of course. Didn't cost him nothing but time. Which is what he cost me. It was a proportional response. I'd do it again. Be careful how you park. 😜
  2. FYI, you can order Lloyd mats direct (and without a logo, for an even lower price).
  3. I park like that all the time -- and I drive a beater most days. Still doesn't work. I parked in the back 40 of the Home Depot lot some time ago because I knew I was coming out with a load of lumber and wanted room to load up. When I walked in, there wasn't a vehicle within 20 spaces in any direction. Sure enough, some jackwagon parked his lifted truck right next to me (so now there was one vehicle within 20 spaces). I mean right next to me; I couldn't even squeeze between my quarterpanel and his (yeah, he was at an angle and his rear wheel was in my space). So I contorted mys
  4. If I were the cynical type, I'd think you're trying to gather all the negative info you can so you can make a lowball offer and snag it for yourself. If you're really trying to sell it, list it at 27, take the first close offer that comes in, and move on. The buyer has some obligation to due diligence, and it's neither dishonest nor shady if you don't disclose what you don't know. Tell him what you do know and leave it at that. The more you look for flaws, the more you'll find; any car can be picked apart if you look hard enough. That may give the buyer a reason to go low, but
  5. No kiddin'. You hate to say it on a car that -- at first glance -- looks pretty nice, but (investment-wise) that's almost a project car. The front bumper, the wheels, the paint... They all look to be on the wrong side of the line.
  6. Legwork. Start hunting up and documenting similar listings and/or sales on craigslist, eBay, Hemmings, etc. Then ask yourself how much your time is worth, and whether it might more productively and enjoyably be spent driving and/or improving your car.
  7. In that arrangement, the pin would be inserted to hold the latch against the ratchet. That is, you don't want the ratchet to fly open, and you want something more substantial than a spring to hold it closed.
  8. Don't some of these hoists have locking pins that hold the hoist in place to protect against hydraulic failure?
  9. Put in a 4th set at 120". Or two rows of evenly spaced bolts for infinite adjustment. On some jobs, you might not care if it's next to the wall. On others, you might want to get to both sides. Put in 6 or 8 sets. Won't change the cost much, and you might be glad you did. FWIW, a lot of folks with 2-post lifts augment them with extra-tall jackstands placed front and rear to keep the car from rocking. Maybe I'm an idiot, but the idea of leaning into something like a pinion nut that requires 250 ft-lbs of torque (i.e. a long breaker bar) while the car is perched on a 2-post wi
  10. Trigonometry being what it is, the further apart the posts are the less front-to-back adjustment you have. But if you're going to be constantly unbolting and moving the lift, why not put in three sets of anchor bolts? You could put one set by the wall, a second at 105", and a third at 135". That should cover all your bases.
  11. Don't see much need for putting disc brakes on a 65, but if that's what you want to do, you might also take a look at Scarebird's setup. Using OTC calipers and rotors would seem to be advantageous.
  12. What's does "stopped reading" mean? Is it stuck on full, stuck on empty, stuck somewhere in between, or just inaccurate? Don't pass by the obvious: if it's on E, you might be out of gas.
  13. Those two green 52s might well be the same car. Same color, same misaligned trim (or is that a standard "feature"?), and licensed in the same state.
  14. That Vette solution seems to make more sense. If you'll notice, the OEM plate is open in the middle. IOW, there's no way to avoid leakage between the barrels. Similarly, if you don't need a gasket between the plate and the base, why would you need one between the pate and the manifold? Put it all together, and it seems that the optimal solution is a plate sandwich (plate between two gaskets), with all three pieces cut to seal between the barrels.
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