KongaMan

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About KongaMan

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  1. Sorry, but if I find body bling that's glued on rather than fastened with nuts as original, there better be a damn good reason (e.g. mounting studs are broken off). "It's faster to glue it" is not, in and of itself, that reason. BTW, if you removed it by spinning off the nuts, why can't you just spin them back on? Think about this... Anyone who has worked on old cars has encountered a potentially straightforward job made infinitely more complicated because they also have to work through some previous "mechanic's" hackeration. Consider that nameplate. Yeah, it may be a PITA to get to those nuts -- but when you do it comes off cleanly. OTOH, removing a glued-on piece entails greater risk of damaging the finish and or molding. The next guy who wants to remove that molding doesn't know it's now glued on -- so he proceeds as if everything's normal, only to find that he's just wasted his time by placing undeserved faith in the previous guy and he now has to start over. IOW, a simple job just got harder. It cost you 10 seconds to cost him an hour. If I'm that him, it's now time to remove the women and children from the area, lest their delicate ears be violated by my vitriolic appraisal of his aptitude.
  2. Depends what you're looking for. The all-inclusive kits seem to be predominantly Asian parts. Some of the pieces are still available as stock items. Some you can still find NOS on eBay or through boutique builders (e.g. Rare Parts). If you want bushings, buy new. IMHO, NOS rubber is a fool's errand.
  3. IMHO, I don't think it's a cooling problem. Rather, I agree with EmTee that it's likely electrical. More specifically, I'd guess that the temperature light is related to the engine running rough (i.e. almost stalling). In any event, the engine running rough is a bigger problem than an inadvertent idiot light. I'd get that sorted first, then see if the temp light is still acting up. Not sure of the circuitry in a 67, but you might also check the VR. If the output dips that could explain both rough running and the light.
  4. Don't use too much persuasion; you don't want to bung up the fitting. If that's going to be a problem, you could run the rear line through the junction block (plug the other holes) and fab a new line with a tee for the front. That's not the way folks normally do this, but it's easier than reflaring, patching, or replacing the main line to the rears.
  5. Take the pink wagon. It's cool as hell.
  6. Nor do I; I'm just sayin... BTW, when I was diagnosing my ignition switch problem, everything looked good in the static tests. It wasn't until I put an analog multimeter on the coil and drove around (windshield wiper makes a great clamp ) that I could see the needle crater in time with the engine stumbling.
  7. IMHO, there was some overlap between the divisions. We had a 67 Chevy Caprice wagon for a while. Big engine, fully optioned. It weren't no budget ride. Looked like this (same color and everything; wish I had it now):
  8. I had a similar problem on a vehicle once. It was a bad ignition switch. I was too lazy to disassemble the steering column to replace the switch, so I put a jumper across the switch (from 12V to IGN terminal) with a toggle switch on it. Start the car, turn the toggle switch on. Shut off the car, flip it to off. Kind of a PITA, but it worked flawlessly.
  9. There are two MCs: Delco and Bendix. One takes the short plunger, the other the long. Sounds like you got the wrong one. IIRC, Bendix has the deep hole and takes the long shaft. It also has a screw-on cover while the Delco is held on with a wire clip. I think the fittings are 9/16-18 and 1/2-20.
  10. Objectively speaking, I don't see how anyone could think that the contemporary Thumnderbird (cool as it may be) is near the car the Riviera is. Not to drink too much of the Kool-Aid, but the first generation Riviera is one of (if not the) best engineered domestic cars from that period.
  11. How much darker can you be than black? 🤪
  12. For a true dye, you'd probably want to pull the carpet.