Kosage Chavis

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About Kosage Chavis

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  • Birthday 11/25/1980

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  • Location:
    Newport News, VA

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  1. Man! The engine is looking nice. Are those new or reused pistons that I see?
  2. Showing the existing conditions of the rod bearings and its associated rod bearing journals. #1 piston#2 piston#3 piston#4 piston #5 piston#6 piston#7 piston#8 pistonFrom what I can tell, I see nothing serious. Most of it looks to be normal wear. Maybe a more experienced set of eyes can provide their opinions. Main bearings and associated main bearing journals are next.
  3. Next was the removal of the crankshaft as shown.First, I only removed three main bearing caps (#2, #3 and #4) as shown by removing the 2 bolts at each of them as shown.Each cap is numbered consecutively (#1 being at the front of engine) and has an arrow that points to the front of the engine. I am not going to give advice on how to remove the caps because I struggled with this without the cap popping off uncontrollably. Maybe one of you could school me here... @EmTee, @avgwarhawk, @old-tank, @MrEarl, @NC-car-guy, @RivNut. I left the #1 cap and most rear cap (not numbered) in place, only unscrewing those bolts about half way. I did this because the rear cap was too big and difficult to remove like the other smaller caps. I then turned the engine over so that the weight of the crank rested totally on the 2 remaining caps. The idea was to use the weight of the crank to push the much bigger rear cap off of the engine (without letting the crank fall). I then took a rubber mallet and tapped down on the rear end of the crank, dislodging the rear cap in the process. I then flipped the engine back over and I was able to pull off the rear cap without much of a problem. The #1 cap was also removed. After all caps are removed, grab both ends of the crank and carefully lift it up and out of the engine block. Be sure to also remove the other halves of the main bearings. Showing the site of removal.Showing the crankshaft removed from engine.Overall, moderate task (only because removing the main bearing caps was a bit of a challenge).
  4. Next, I removed the flexplate as shown.Just remove all 6 bolts as shown.Note that there is a dowell that makes sure the flexplate in installed in the correct manner. When bolts are removed, slide the flexplate off of the crankshaft end. Now, showing the site of removal.Showing the flexplate removed from the engine.Overall, this was an easy task.
  5. Work continued with piston removal.I thought that I would need to put a ridge reamer on the block in order to remove the pistons, but my good friends here urged me not to. So, I proceeded without doing so. I made sure that the side of the engine that I was working on, that the top of the pistons were pointing to the floor. I then began removing both nuts to each connecting rod shown here.This next photo is just to note that for each set of connecting rods that are paired together, there is a little tab on the clamp. I am pointing to it right here.These small tabs should face each other in each pair when reinstalled. Once nuts are removed, slide the clamps off if you can. In my case, none of mine did. So, I took a long and slender piece of wood and placed the bottom end on the back side of the piston. I took a hammer and tapped the other end of the wood until the connecting rod separated from the clamp. This didn't work well enough on a couple of stubborn connecting rods. So, for those I took a small hammer and lightly tapped one connecting rod clamp bolt till it pushed through and that freed up the clamp. Just be sure not to damage the threads. Once the piston was free, I tapped on that wood again to push the piston out. I used one hand to tap the wood while using the other hand to catch and guide the piston from its bore. Getting the piston rings past the lip was not difficult at all. I probably will not be reusing these pistons on my this rebuild, but just in case, I made sure to label which piston each were and the direction it faced. Showing the site of removal.Showing pistons removed from the engine.Overall, this was a moderate task. I will be sure to show the condition of the rod bearings later.
  6. You were right. I got the pistons out without much resistance! I will post later.
  7. Thank you Mr Willie. You have persuaded me not to bother with this. So, how do I get the pistons out without damaging the piston and/or cylinder if there is a lip present? Can I tap the piston out without worry of damage, in spite of the lip?
  8. When using a ridge reamer on these engines, is there a preferred brand or do they all work well?
  9. Your piston looks exactly like mine. I could tell that at one time my engine had a sticking valve and hit the piston quite a bit, bending the rod in the process. Anyhow, someone repaired both heads, but left the piston as is. I ran my engine quite a few times and the piston seemed to do fine. I think yours will too. Just need to get those broken pieces out and I think you will be okay.
  10. I need some opinions please. Tax season is upon us and my Wife and I are talking about building a detached garage (workshop for the buick). Money is always an issue with us. So, we have floated the idea of doing this build in 2 phases. First phase would be to remove a tree and lay the concrete slab. The second phase would be for the building (accomplished next tax season). Can this work out well? Thank you.
  11. Accomplished a little something last weekend and removed both the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets, timing chain, camshaft and a few smaller items. First things removed were both sprockets and chain together as shown. First, simply slide the large dished washer off of the crankshaft. Also remove the center bolt from the camshaft.Normally (from what I hear), you could slide both sprockets off a small distance at a time, while alternating between both. This is all done with the chain still on. In my case however, my camshaft sprocket was stuck. So, I had to use a puller to slide off.As the puller slid the camshaft sprocket off a bit, I'd pry the crankshaft off the same amount until both sprockets are removed. Showing the site of removal.Showing the timing chain, camshaft and crankshaft sprockets removed from the engine. Next, I removed the camshaft as shown.Remove the 3 bolts that mounts this retaining flange. Showing area after flange removal.Once the flange is removed, grab and pull on the front end of the camshaft while guiding and holding the opposite end out from the engine block. Showing the site of the removal.Showing the camshaft removed from the engine. Next, I removed this guard (???) shown here.Remove 2 bolts. Remove. Showing site of removal.Showing guard (???) removed from the engine. Lastly, I removed plug/valves from both sides of the engine block.Simply unscrew. Remove. Showing site of removal.Showing plug/valves removed from the engine. Overall, all of the tasks in this post were easy.
  12. I agree. It's a good deal for a gorgeous car.
  13. Is this uncommon for these engines? All of this is helpful advice. Thank you.