BulldogDriver

I recently replaced all of my u joints and also had trouble with c clips. Both were Moog brand. Replaced them with SKF brand, the ones with blue spacers on the caps, UJS UJ234,from NAPA. Also got a spare set from Spicer 5-795X, they seem to the better made ones. Tom T would know the best to use. There is a way to check alignment without the tools. The shop manual give measurements using tools and procedures that I didn’t have access to so after researching I used the guidelines in this publication https://assets.wellertruck.com/reference-materials/installation-guides/driveline-installation-j3311-1-dssp-spicer.pdf using this digital angle gauge http://www.wixey.com/anglegauge/#wr300type2. Gauge wasn’t available back then. In my case my angle on the forward shaft was 1.5* down and that was what the pinion shaft flange was already at. I did use the shims that were originally at the center housing. Try to achieve the same angle for front shaft and pinion flange. I zeroed the gauge on the frame where the center bearing is bolted. Mine came out to .01* difference. Ray

BestOfferCounts has rebuild kits. Ray

From what I was able to research, the pinion flange is a direct replacement. You might be able to tap the holes in the flange, I’d check that before using bolts and nuts. I can’t remember the difference in height between the Dyna and the 4L60E mounts but it was enough to explain why the 64/65 center housing was 1 1/4” shorter. Difference in length of the transmissions was also a factor as it changed the angle of the front driveshaft. Needed to keep the angle of the front driveshaft proper. I found that if I used my 63 trans crossmember, shifting it back 3” which was the same spacing between the bolts on the member, I was able to get the trans mount to work after modifications to clear the trans pan and fit in the new place on the frame. I had looked at using the 64/65 member but it would have been a challenge due to relocating the holes where access to nuts wasn’t feasible. Others have done it on 200r4’s which its mount is another 3” further back. I also don’t think the holes in the frame for the crossmember were flat plain to the frame. Didn’t look that way on the 64/65 crossmember. Ray

Sender is PT64 and uses a PT139 pigtail. From a previous post. Works for me. Ray

Ed, That looks to be a 64/65 flange. 63 flange was u bolts directly to a u joint. I just replaced the pinion seal on a posi trac carrier along with outer axle bearings and seals on my 63. I have that flange and a 64/65 driveshaft in case I have problems with the 63 setup and my 4L60E transmission conversion. The flange is tapped for 7/16 course bolts. All parts are original to a 64. Looking at John B’s photo it appears it is not tapped with threads. I wonder if that is a correct flange for Rivieras. Mine came off a Riviera from BestOfferCounts and I picked it up directly from James. Ray

You are drilling 2 holes in that 3/4” area. Doesn’t meet the rule.

I had considered doing the same but I didn’t see it as an easier solution for the conversion. The housing spacing between the bolts is 2 1/4” and 1 1/2” which gave a 3/4” space to drill 2 3/8” or 5/16” holes, can’t remember the size. Not much metal to support the housing as it is slotted. Also the original setup seems to allow some adjustment forward and backwards, I guess for alignment to the transmission. On my 63 frame I would’ve had to open the hole on the lowest layer of the frame to allow space to get to the upper part of the frame to drill the new holes and put a socket on the bolt. I would’ve also had to come up with a way make sure the alignment of the new holes would keep the housing aligned the same as the original holes. I can screwup a lot of housings before it would even come close in time and money to the fix problems that could be caused to the frame if that had been the path I went. Pretty hard to get all that stuff right when you only have 28” between the floor and frame. Cutting the housing and fabricating a base plate took all of 30 mins. $20 to get it welded. Others had done this same procedure. Just my situation. Ray

Dennis, Your response is what I thought was the case. The 1 1/4” difference between the 2 housings could induce enough angle to be causing undue load on the center bearing, causing it to fail and thus the squealing. The length of a 64/65 transmission is longer than the 63, as is a 4L60E and the reason I had to modify the housing for my installation. My front shaft had to shortened by 10” if I remember correctly as yours would have been the correct length. I think the easiest way would be to use a 64/65 housing, cut the base off and weld a new piece with nuts spaced for the 63 frame or tap threads into a thicker piece, 1/4- 3/8” should do it. The shop manual give measurements using tools and procedures that I didn’t have access to so after researching I used the guidelines in this publication https://assets.wellertruck.com/reference-materials/installation-guides/driveline-installation-j3311-1-dssp-spicer.pdf using this digital angle gauge http://www.wixey.com/anglegauge/#wr300type2. In my case my angle on the forward shaft was 1.5* down and that was what the pinion shaft flange was already at. I did use the shims that were originally at the center housing. You probably won’t need to worry about that with a CV joint on the rear shaft but still try to achieve the same angle for front shaft and pinion flange. If you decide to rebuild the whole driveshaft, I would suggest to shy away from Moog u joints. I had 2 of them have slop in the caps that allowed a pronounced looseness when installed. Spicer or SKF were a lot better in my case. Ray

So, lets go back to the original post. Is there a symptom (vibration, noise, etc) that started this thread. Reason I’m asking is the center bearing housing doesn’t have the same height between 63 and 64/65. I converted a 63 driveshaft to be behind a 4L60E and had to shorten the 63 housing to the same height as a 64/65. You can’t use a 64 housing because of bolt pattern. No easy way to modify the frame mount. If vibration is the problem shortening of a 63 to a 64/65 height should help. Whoever does the job has to know how to deal with non removable rubber being a part of the housing. I’m bringing this up because that might have been done to yours. Housing for 63 should be around 5 1/4” high and 64/65 around 4”. With a CV joint in the rear it may not be that critical. Setting the geometry of your drivetrain to a 64 would be the correct alignment. Ray

Looks like a 64 or 65 driveshaft was installed with a 63 center bearing support housing sub’ed to fit the car’s frame. If I remember correctly the bearing is the same for 63-65. Tom T. can correct me but I think rebuild kits are still available for the CV’s but not the center ball. Tom T. my 63 didn’t have a CV on the driveshaft, only u-joints. Ray

Questions 1. What transmission is in the car, 2. Do you have the driveshaft out of the car? If so post a photo of it. The center bearing housing for the driveshaft is different in height and the bolts are spaced different between 63 and 64/65. If your car has an original Dynaflow transmission than the driveshaft should be the original configuration. If it is a later year transmission than most likely has been modified but you can still rebuild the driveshaft without too much problems. Ray

I agree with Bernie. Only reason I swapped mine for a 4L60E was boredom. Covid made me do it! Along with a bunch of other enhancements. Drove cross country with the Dynaflow at 70-80 mph, 12 mpg and it did leak a little, but not enough to add any in the 3000 miles home. Maybe Bernies guy is close enough to let him straighten the Dynaflow out. $2400 seems cheap in todays world. My conversion is at least double that not including my time which is a whole bunch more than 18 hours. Ray

Drive shaft and trans mount are also different. Have to relocate mount holes for the mount. Either keeping the dynaflow or going to a 300/400 you would probably have to rebuild them also. Most likely cheaper to get the dynaflow worked on. Ray

Thanks again Bill going to pick these up tomorrow. Ray

Thanks Bill