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Quick update. I ordered the drier from Amazon (link above). As explained, there is a sight glass, which was covered. Thanks all Doug

As the title states. I am looking to replace the ac filter drier on my '65. I keep finding a model from Four Seasons part number 33215. One of the reviewers on Amazon stated it does not have a sight glass; however, when I look at the same part on Rockauto it states it includes a sight glass. Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-33215-Filter-Drier/dp/B000DCNEIA/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=1Sd9V&content-id=amzn1.sym.35cab78c-35e3-4fc1-aab0-27eaa6c86063%3Aamzn1.symc.e5c80209-769f-4ade-a325-2eaec14b8e0e&pf_rd_p=35cab78c-35e3-4fc1-aab0-27eaa6c86063&pf_rd_r=F5QB9VKEX5NKGN9T54WQ&pd_rd_wg=o8WoU&pd_rd_r=fa56d3df-568c-4966-84a4-92a690dead6f&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m Rockauto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=814840&cc=1319329&pt=6972&jsn=872 Anyone have any experience with this part from Four Seasons? Does it have the sight glass? Thanks Doug

Made more progress this week on adjusting the sending unit. I made a slight adjustment to the pickup tube so the fuel sock is at the bottom of the tank. I then adjusted the float lever. There are actually three places you need to adjust the lever (see picture). Adjust at bend 1 to make the bend closer to a 90 degree angle. This pulls the float in tighter to the sending unit when full, so it won't hit the top of the tank too early. Then adjust bend 2 until the float is in line with the top of the pickup tube. You don't want the float below the top of pickup tube, as the pickup tube will be sucking air prior to the gauge showing empty. Finally, make sure the float is actually level in relation to the mounting of the sending unit. Mine was not level and would not hit the top of the tank flat. With these adjustments the gauge begins to register with 3 gallons of gas, which is also when the pickup tube becomes completely covered in fuel. I added one gallon at a time and checked the resistance of the sending unit and gauge level and found the gauge was fairly accurate. It's about 1 gallon off. At 6 gallons it reads 1/4 tank; at 11 gallons it reads 1/2 a tank and at 16 gallons it reads 3/4 tank. By the time I hit 20 gallons, I am at full. Hope this helps people in the future Doug

Thanks all. Looks like I am not the only one with this issue. With the adjustment I made to the float lever, the pickup tube should still be covered in gas when the gauge reads empty. If I have to choose between being accurate about being empty or full, probably safer to be accurate about empty. I only need about a little more adjustment to get the float to swing completely through it's arc. I may try to adjust the pickup tube to move it closer to the bottom of the tank. There's some room to lower it. Then I can lower the float a little more and still have the pickup tube completely submerged. Thanks

Thanks. 3-5 gallons before the gauge reads. That's about 1/4 tank of gas. Did a little more testing today. I bent the float lever to make it parallel with the pickup to get the gauge to read sooner (see first picture). Looks like I start getting a reading now between 3-4 gallons. However, when I flip the tank over and check the resistance I only get 73ohms. I looked inside the tank and noticed the float hits the top of the tank (see second picture) before I get a full 90ohms. I even got close and can see the float lever doesn't sit on the top stop before the float hits the top of the tank (see circle in third picture). I am starting to wonder whether I have a correct gas tank. It fits well and looks like an original tank, but have no idea what has happened over the years. Is there a way to determine an original tank? Is there a part number somewhere? Or do I just need to continue to modify the sender to work? Thanks

I am replacing the fuel sending unit in my '65. Although, my previous sending unit was new it only worked properly intermittently. I bench tested the new sending unit and it worked perfectly (0 ohms empty, 90 ohms full). I am slowly adding fuel to the tank, one gallon at a time, and checking the fuel gauge and sending unit reading to ensure all is working properly. I am up to 4 gallons and the fuel gauge hasn't moved and the sending unit is still reading 0 ohms. I looked into the tank and can see that the float lever has not even moved off the lower stop. Am I supposed to be bending the float lever to get the gauge to read right or does the tank hold 4 gallons before the gauge begins to register? I have included a picture of the old sending unit which is identical to the new sending unit. The float sits above the fuel sock which makes sense to me. If I need to bend the float lever I will need to bend it around the fuel sock as it sits right over the fuel sock. I have also included a picture inside the tank and a closeup showing the float level sitting on the lower stop after 4 gallons were added to the tank. Any thoughts on what I need to adjust to get a reading? Thanks Doug

Turn signals cancel in both directions, which is why I was focused on the switch and not the cable. I will play around with the tilt to see if anything changes. Does the cable usually break in a certain spot, that I can inspect? Thanks

Yes, the car has a tilt wheel

I have been dealing with a sporadic issue with the brake lights on my '65. Periodically, my drivers side brake light doesn't work. There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to when it works and when it doesn't. It will work when I leave the garage and won't be working when I get back. Today I took the car for a ride and when I came back the passenger brake light wasn't working, but the drivers side was. I studied the wiring diagram and believe I saw the wires for the brake lights run independently from the back of the car (dark green and yellow) and come together at the turn signal switch on the steering column. From there one wire runs from the turn signal switch to the brake light switch. Since the problem usually impacts one brake light or the other, but never both at the same time, I am thinking my issue is with the turn signal switch. My plan is to remove the switch, disassemble it and clean it. Before I do this, does this sound like a reasonable approach? Any other suggestions or tests before I start to remove parts? Thanks Doug

Thanks Tom I actually installed the relay on Friday night, before I even saw Tom T's message. My connection to the battery is a dedicated wire connected to the junction block on the drivers inner fender, with an inline fuse. However, I did use the original pink ignition wire, that ran to the coil, which connects to the resistance wire at the firewall; instead of running all the way to the ignition switch. Everything is working as expected with the new distributor. Thanks

Thanks all. After looking up under the dash to figure out how to bypass the resistance wire, I went the relay route, as Tom suggested. Much easier to work in the engine compartment as compared to under the dash. Thanks again Doug

Does the resistance wire running from the ignition under the dash, on a '65, serve any other purpose now that I have eliminated my distributor points? I have an MSD distributor which requires 12volts at all times and I would like to bypass the resistance wire all together. Thanks Doug

Looks a lot like where I started. Now it’s time to purge what I don’t have an immediate need for. Of course, as soon as I started throwing things away, I found a need for something that was already gone.

Anyone else interested? Tired of looking at the box and hate to toss in the trash. Just to be clear this is not a loop style carpet. It’s more like what you find in modern cars. Attached is pic next to the Clark’s carpet in my car. Doug

A couple pics of the box and label.