Jump to content

kdml

Members
  • Posts

    320
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About kdml

  • Birthday 01/04/1969

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

kdml's Achievements

2,500+ Points

2,500+ Points (4/7)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • Collaborator

Recent Badges

54

Reputation

  1. Turn signals cancel in both directions, which is why I was focused on the switch and not the cable. I will play around with the tilt to see if anything changes. Does the cable usually break in a certain spot, that I can inspect? Thanks
  2. Yes, the car has a tilt wheel
  3. I have been dealing with a sporadic issue with the brake lights on my '65. Periodically, my drivers side brake light doesn't work. There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to when it works and when it doesn't. It will work when I leave the garage and won't be working when I get back. Today I took the car for a ride and when I came back the passenger brake light wasn't working, but the drivers side was. I studied the wiring diagram and believe I saw the wires for the brake lights run independently from the back of the car (dark green and yellow) and come together at the turn signal switch on the steering column. From there one wire runs from the turn signal switch to the brake light switch. Since the problem usually impacts one brake light or the other, but never both at the same time, I am thinking my issue is with the turn signal switch. My plan is to remove the switch, disassemble it and clean it. Before I do this, does this sound like a reasonable approach? Any other suggestions or tests before I start to remove parts? Thanks Doug
  4. Thanks Tom I actually installed the relay on Friday night, before I even saw Tom T's message. My connection to the battery is a dedicated wire connected to the junction block on the drivers inner fender, with an inline fuse. However, I did use the original pink ignition wire, that ran to the coil, which connects to the resistance wire at the firewall; instead of running all the way to the ignition switch. Everything is working as expected with the new distributor. Thanks
  5. Thanks all. After looking up under the dash to figure out how to bypass the resistance wire, I went the relay route, as Tom suggested. Much easier to work in the engine compartment as compared to under the dash. Thanks again Doug
  6. Does the resistance wire running from the ignition under the dash, on a '65, serve any other purpose now that I have eliminated my distributor points? I have an MSD distributor which requires 12volts at all times and I would like to bypass the resistance wire all together. Thanks Doug
  7. Looks a lot like where I started. Now it’s time to purge what I don’t have an immediate need for. Of course, as soon as I started throwing things away, I found a need for something that was already gone.
  8. Anyone else interested? Tired of looking at the box and hate to toss in the trash. Just to be clear this is not a loop style carpet. It’s more like what you find in modern cars. Attached is pic next to the Clark’s carpet in my car. Doug
  9. A couple pics of the box and label.
  10. Cleaning out my workshop. This carpet kit was included with my car when I bought it. I did not use it. I can’t vouch for the quality; however, I’ll admit it doesn’t look or feel like what I installed from Clark’s. Yours free if you pay shipping. I’m located in Vermont, if you want to estimate shipping.
  11. Adjusting the mounting location of the switch on the lower part of the steering column solved my problem. Signals now cancel in both directions. Schmiddy, for your issue, did you have the roll pin in back of the steering wheel installed? Is it the correct roll pin for your column? See the following thread for more info:
  12. As the title states, the right turn signal won’t cancel on my ‘65. Left cancels no problem. Took off the wheel to inspect. As picture shows it almost cancels, but just won’t move to the resting position without a little nudge of the turn signal stalk. I’m thinking something needs some lubrication. I lubricated the pin in the picture, but there still seems to be some resistance. Any other lubrication points? thanks Doug
  13. kdml

    No Kickdown

    Update I replaced the solenoid in the trans this weekend. Click is now noticeable. I can even hear it click while sitting in the car with the key on and engine off, while pressing the gas pedal. The real test will be in the spring when I can get the car out again. Thanks
  14. kdml

    No Kickdown

    No worries on the confusion. I asked for opinions and expect sometimes they will differ. I tested at the plug on the trans again today and listened to the bottom of the pan with a stethoscope...no click. All the wiring is good and I get power at the plug at the trans when the throttle is engaged. I am going to replace the solenoid in the transmission. Will report back my findings after replacement. Thanks Doug
  15. kdml

    No Kickdown

    So now I have 2 different answers on whether I should hear the solenoid click. In my original thread I was told I should and this new thread I am hearing I may not, due to the fluid. Since the solenoid is easy to get at, I may just replace it to rule it out. Also, I do have a tach. I don’t feel kickdown or see it on the tach; however, any further road testing will need to wait until all the snow melts and the temps get out of the single digits. Thanks Doug
×
×
  • Create New...