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About kdml

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  • Birthday 01/04/1969

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  1. The fix was pretty easy in the end. It just took me a while to get there. I’m using an Edelbrock throttle lever adapter (part #1418). It has 2 holes. One large (top) and one small hole (bottom). I first attempted to oval out the bottom hole for more adjustment. It wouldn’t work as it either provided the right adjustment for kick down or switch pitch, but not both. The top hole wasn’t going to work as I couldn’t get WOT before the kickdown switch bottomed out. I finally drilled a third hole between the 2 holes. This worked perfectly. I adjusted the kick down switch plunger so it lit my test light at or near WOT. I verified the switch pitch microswitch turned off my test light just off idle. Doug
  2. Right However, all I needed to do was walk away long enough to post my last reply and I figured it out. The pin the switch mounts to on the carb linkage travels in an arc. To make the arc wider I actually needed to move the pin up not forward...if that makes any sense. One new hole and all is working properly. Thanks
  3. Spent some time on the carb switch today. I pulled it apart, cleaned it and got a better understanding of how it works. I don’t believe there was anything wrong with the switch. I am running and Edelbrock carb and I can’t get enough travel with the linkage to engage the kickdown at WOT and cut power to the micro switch at idle. I’ve drilled new holes and ovaled out others and just can’t get the right adjustment. Time to walk away and take a fresh look another day.
  4. Dropped the trans pan this morning and retested by applying 12 volts to each tang on the connector. Both solenoids are clicking. I noticed the plug in the inside of the connector seems a little loose. Maybe it wasn’t making good contact. Or maybe the trans fluid was muffling the noise of the kickdown solenoid. Either way things appear to be working and it only cost me some fluid. I’ll move on to the switch on the carb next. Thanks
  5. Thanks. I’ll pull my switch apart to see what’s going on inside. Anybody have any thoughts on my first question? Should I hear a click when applying voltage to the vertical tang on the connector on the side of the transmission?
  6. I have done a lot of reading online and the service manual to identify any issues with my switch pitch and kickdown wiring. My car is getting close to being road ready and I would like to head off any issues before getting it back on the road. Sorry for the long story, but I wanted to provide all the information I have gathered to help determine what problems I might be having. I started by making sure the kickdown switch (detent solenoid) on the carburetor and the switch pitch microswitch (stator control solenoid) are properly adjusted according to the service manual. Next I moved to the transmission to ensure all the solenoids in the transmission were working correctly. I applied 12 volts directly to the connector on the outside of the transmission. I heard the solenoid in the trans click when applying voltage to the horizontal tang (switch pitch) on the connector, but nothing when applying voltage to the vertical tang (kickdown). This could be my first problem. Should I hear a click when applying voltage to the vertical tang on the connector? Next I moved on to the wiring. Using a test light with the key on and engine off, I tested wiring at the plug which attaches to the connector on the side of the transmission. I inserted the test light into the slot for the vertical tang (kickdown). There is no power to this slot, unless I move the carburetor to full throttle. I believe this is correct as that is when the transmission should kick down. I then repeated the procedure for the slot for the horizontal tang (switch pitch). I had power to this slot all the time, regardless of throttle position. I double-checked that the microswitch on the linkage was opening just off idle, which should eliminate power to this slot. This is potentially a second problem. To narrow down what was causing the second problem. I moved up to the switches on the carb and linkage. There are 3 wires running to the kickdown switch (see picture). If I am following the path of the current correctly, the orange wire brings power to the switch from the wiring harness on the firewall. I am getting power to this wire all the time. The yellow wire sends power to the vertical tang (kickdown) on the transmission. I am getting power to this wire only when at full throttle,, which I believe is correct. The black/yellow wire brings power to the horizontal tang (switch pitch) on the transmission. I am getting power to this wire all the time, regardless of throttle position. This is not correct as it should only have power at idle. To determine whether the switch pitch microswitch, on the throttle linkage is my problem, I disconnected the plug on the kickdown switch that runs to the microswitch. I connected a jumper from the tang for the orange wire to the plug. This should bring power to the microswitch. I inserted my test light into the other slot in the plug and operated the linkage. Power goes off as soon as I move the linkage. This proves to me that the microswitch is operating correctly. This leads me to believe I have a problem with the kickdown switch. I tried to verify this by leaving the microswitch plug disconnected and testing power to the tang for the black/yellow switch pitch wire. There is power all the time. Does all this make sense? Can the kickdown switch alone provide power to the switch pitch wire all the time? Is this kickdown switch serviceable or does it need to be replaced? Thanks Doug
  7. Thanks all. I’ll probably wait to fix this as it actually does clean the windshield. Probably a good winter project. I have got other priorities as I get the final pieces together to get the car back on the road after 11 years.
  8. It doesn’t shut off on its own. I tested it and it pulse sprayed 60 times before I finally turned the knob. Sounds like I’m pulling the motor. 😞
  9. On my ‘65 once I press the windshield washer button the washer continues to spray whether I keep my finger on the button or not. To stop the spray I have to turn the knob and shut off the wipers. Is that correct? Or should the washer only spray when I press the button? I’m hoping this is correct as I want to avoid having to remove the wiper motor. Thanks Doug
  10. When I purchased my ‘65 the seat tracks were in a box. Also in the box was a long spring. Does this spring go with the tracks? If so, where? I don’t have a power seat, if that makes a difference. Thanks Doug
  11. Thanks Tom Just when I thought I had every part I would need to complete this restoration.
  12. Is the plate under the rear speaker on a ‘65 shorter when you have the optional armrest? I am not sure if my car originally came with a rear center armrest as I had parts for with and without the armrest. I decided to restore the armrest and install. I tried to install the plate under the rear speaker and it appears too tall with the armrest in place. I’m thinking it’s a plate for no armrest and the plate with an armrest is shorter. Any thoughts? Thanks Doug
  13. Thanks all Got mine installed today. Yes, I redrilled the front hole in the floor. My original hole wasn’t even close.
  14. Dave, I can't guarantee the panel for the passenger side on mine is original. It seems to fit the space well. The give away is that fact that my panel has 4 holes and the end of the console it mounts to only has 3. Not sure what you mean by having a light behind it...the panel gets covered by the carpet.