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neil morse

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Everything posted by neil morse

  1. It's always been interesting to me that the industry stylists seemed to be in lock-step for the 1936 models -- almost all makes had essentially the same grill design. You can spot a '36 from a mile, no matter the manufacturer!
  2. Very handsome car, and reasonably priced. Interesting that it doesn't have power windows -- I would have thought they were standard on a car like this.
  3. Helping brainstorm this problem is way above my paygrade, but I've been thinking along the same lines as what AB-Buff suggested, above, just in terms of one of the most elementary diagnostic approaches. If something worked before and now no longer works, what was changed? In this case, what changed was the metal stitching job. Is there any possibility that the metal stitching job somehow resulted in one of the water passages becoming blocked? As Buff says, checking for that would be a good idea.
  4. I believe that this car still has the M6 "semi-automatic" (hence the "safety clutch"), but they changed the gear selector to look more like a fully automatic transmission. Maybe someone else can chime in here to resolve this question. I don't believe Chrysler had a fully-automatic transmission until the introduction of "PowerFlite" in 1954.
  5. Thank you, George. That must be why the owner/seller thinks it's a "cruise control." Kind of indicates that the seller is not an old car person. Sure looks like a great car, however!
  6. Looks like a great original, as others have commented. But what about the seller's claim that everything works "including the cruise control."? What could he be talking about? A pull-out hand throttle on the dash?
  7. Wow, another great MoPar deal. This is a lot of car for the money, and looks to be in very fine condition.
  8. Our local BCA chapter was invited to attend a town car show in Los Altos Hills yesterday. Buicks were well-represented.
  9. Apart from the title problem, this appears to be a solid car at a reasonable price. Is it possible that there's some other number (on the frame?) that matches the number on the title?
  10. Matt, I'm reading this and thinking about the progress you have made. So it turned out that there was more that needed to be done to this car than you realized -- the important thing is that you are finding out what else needs to be done and doing it. Not making the Lincoln meet must be a disappointment, but I'm sure it's a relief at some level as well. You've worked your butt off and deserve to take a break. Then proceed at a more leisurely pace and before long, you will have achieved your goal of having a beautiful, reliable car.
  11. Thanks, everyone, for your suggestions. I removed the cut-off switch and I will just have to wait and see if the problem reoccurs.
  12. Can you spell that out a bit? I'm not understanding it, but I'm not well-educated on the electrical system.
  13. Thanks, Ed. I will explore that avenue as soon as I get some help on how to do it. (I know from another thread that you are in the pool, so I don't want to disturb you.) 😄 Well, as a matter of fact, I have that exact cutoff switch. The first suggestion I got when this happened the first time back in April was that the cutoff switch was the culprit. But I took it apart and made sure it was clean, and I couldn't figure out how it could possibly cause an intermittent problem like this. But getting rid of it is certainly a very simple thing to do! Thank you for the help.
  14. Today, for only the second time in three months, all of sudden my '41 would not start. Fortunately, I was only a few blocks from my house and had parked at the top of a slight downgrade. So I jump started it without a problem and went home. As soon as I got it in the garage, I shut it down and tried to start it again. It fired up completely normally. Here's what I can tell you about the two times this has happened: 1. Both times were on local short trips around town. After behaving normally, all of sudden I go to start the car and it behaves as if the battery were low -- i.e., it barely turns over a few times and then the starter motor stops and I get nothing. 2. It does not appear to be the battery. I happened to have a voltmeter with me today, and the battery was showing 6.2 volts at the time that it wouldn't start. After the first time this happened, I took my car to a battery shop and they did a load test that it passed with flying colors. Both the first time and today, as soon as I got the car safely back in the garage, it started normally. It has run and started completely normally in the three months between incidents. 3. Nor does it appear that there's anything wrong with the charging system. The charge indicator behaves normally, and the battery maintains a full charge without a problem even if I don't drive the car for a few weeks. 4. After the first time, I thought there might be a weak connection somewhere in the starting circuit so I removed the battery cables and thoroughly cleaned the contacts and made sure all terminals were tight. As I said, it has started normally since then until today. So ... what do the professors say? To my uneducated eye, everything seems to point to the starter motor. When a starter motor begins to fail, is there a kind of Russian Roulette effect where there's just one bad position of the commutator and brushes, and if the starter happens to stop at that point it won't start again? I'm clearly just guessing here -- I'm curious if that could be the explanation for this particular symptom. Any assistance would be most appreciated, including any ideas for further diagnostic testing that would focus on the starter motor. Neil
  15. This looks like a great buy to me. I owned the non-hardtop version of this car back in the 80's. One of the great dashboards of all time -- dubbed the "AstraDome" by the Chrysler marketing folks. This one is nicely optioned and looks to be in great shape.
  16. Thanks all for the clarification. I think we are all on the same page now as far as double-clutching is concerned.
  17. Okay, thank you. That makes more sense to me.
  18. Okay, please bear with me because I'm trying to learn something here, even though my Super does not have this problem (yet, anyway). I think I understand all of Bloo's explanation, except for the extra paragraph I have quoted above. As I read Gary's post, he never says that he is goosing the engine with the clutch engaged. Gary says "Clutch in, slide gearshift out of third, quick "goose" the accelerator, (clutch still in), slide up into second." So I'm confused by what Bloo means when he says that you could probably eliminate the FIRST clutch pedal disengagement when you pull the transmission out of gear "as in Gary W's post above." I also don't understand how Gary's method accomplishes the desired purpose of spinning up the transmission parts to a higher speed since he is not engaging the clutch with the transmission in neutral when he is goosing the engine. I'm sure I'm missing something, but I don't see how Gary's post can be reconciled with Bloo's. Any help would be most appreciated.
  19. A very interesting group of pre-war cars for sale -- definitely worth a look. Thanks for posting.
  20. Grant explained that the steering wheel is from a '47 and he's going to fit it with a correct '41 horn button. He also says that the hubcaps are "rare after-market 1950’s Lyon hubcaps." I'm not sure what that means, but I'm sure he will explain.
  21. I agree 100%. This style is quite popular here in the Bay Area and there are some really nice examples at the "Cars and Coffee" events that I attend with my Buick. However, I also agree that the asking price for this particular car is crazy high.
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