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neil morse

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Everything posted by neil morse

  1. This looks like a great buy to me. I owned the non-hardtop version of this car back in the 80's. One of the great dashboards of all time -- dubbed the "AstraDome" by the Chrysler marketing folks. This one is nicely optioned and looks to be in great shape.
  2. Thanks all for the clarification. I think we are all on the same page now as far as double-clutching is concerned.
  3. Okay, thank you. That makes more sense to me.
  4. Okay, please bear with me because I'm trying to learn something here, even though my Super does not have this problem (yet, anyway). I think I understand all of Bloo's explanation, except for the extra paragraph I have quoted above. As I read Gary's post, he never says that he is goosing the engine with the clutch engaged. Gary says "Clutch in, slide gearshift out of third, quick "goose" the accelerator, (clutch still in), slide up into second." So I'm confused by what Bloo means when he says that you could probably eliminate the FIRST clutch pedal disengagement when you pull the transmission out of gear "as in Gary W's post above." I also don't understand how Gary's method accomplishes the desired purpose of spinning up the transmission parts to a higher speed since he is not engaging the clutch with the transmission in neutral when he is goosing the engine. I'm sure I'm missing something, but I don't see how Gary's post can be reconciled with Bloo's. Any help would be most appreciated.
  5. A very interesting group of pre-war cars for sale -- definitely worth a look. Thanks for posting.
  6. Grant explained that the steering wheel is from a '47 and he's going to fit it with a correct '41 horn button. He also says that the hubcaps are "rare after-market 1950’s Lyon hubcaps." I'm not sure what that means, but I'm sure he will explain.
  7. I agree 100%. This style is quite popular here in the Bay Area and there are some really nice examples at the "Cars and Coffee" events that I attend with my Buick. However, I also agree that the asking price for this particular car is crazy high.
  8. Don't you mean wired in parallel? Otherwise, you would be running 12 volts, which I don't think is what you want to do.
  9. I had also missed it completely, even though I've known and visited a friend for years who lives just a few blocks from there. The oval street is called Urbano Drive, and it's part of Ingleside Terrace, which is located in between Ocean Avenue and Junipero-Serra Boulevard, just east of SF State. You can see on the map where the sundial is located. I found out about it because Gary Kamiya devoted his "Portals of the Past" feature in the Chronicle to it on Saturday. https://www.sfchronicle.com/vault/article/How-S-F-neighborhood-sprouted-where-horses-once-16302613.php The track was built for horse racing in 1895, but after they no longer ran horses there, they used it for automobile racing in the early 1900's. It's pretty fascinating, and worth a visit.
  10. I went for a drive yesterday to an unusual little neighborhood here in my own city that I had never visited. It's a subdivision that was first conceived and developed in 1913 and features a mile-long oval street that is built on what was once touted as "the finest racetrack west of the Mississippi." At one end of what used to be the infield of the track, the developers built a giant sundial as an attraction. I'm always looking for locations for "faux vintage" shots of my car, and this area looks like it will provide plenty of them. (I couldn't test the accuracy of the sundial because of the typical San Francisco summer weather -- fog and high overcast. The sundial is 34 feet in diameter, and the "gnomon" -- I learned a new word -- is 17 feet high!)
  11. Yes, Marty, there was much discussion about that car on "The Old Motor" where I got this photo. It's actually a '41 Plymouth taxi, and it looks like it's some kind of fresh air duct built into the roof to cool the passengers in back.
  12. Tom, I see this is your first post, welcome to the forum! I have a tip for you about the best way to try to contact someone about an old post. A lot of times, people post things in a thread and then may never go back to it, even if a new post brings the thread back up to the top. A way to get someone's attention is to put the @ symbol before his name -- like this @critterpainter Now he will get a notification that his name was mentioned in a post. Also, you might consider sending him a Private Message (click on the envelope icon in the top right-hand corner of the page next to your name). Good luck with your leaky torque ball. Removing it is certainly a big job, so I can see how you might want to explore a way to repair it in place.
  13. Okay, my memory of all this was actually pretty good. Here are four pics that I hope will help. First, the back of the hub showing the fiber washers under the nuts to insulate the brass plate from the top hub assembly. (You will see that a former owner lost one of the fiber washers and substituted a nylon washer instead.) Second, another photo of the same assembly but showing how the horn ring (suspended between the two springs shown in your photos) can be rocked forward so that one of the spokes makes contact with the brass plate). The nuts must be just loose enough to enable the ring to be moved this short distance. Third, a view of the assembled hub showing the horn ring in resting position. The three spokes are pressed against the rubber wedges by the spring and not making contact with the brass plate And fourth, a view of one of the spokes when it is pressed towards the wheel. The spoke is now making a connection (ground) between the "hot" brass plate on the inside of the top hub and the edge of the bottom hub of the steering wheel under it. Result: the horn sounds. Hope this helps.
  14. Again, I'm not certain about this, but I think you have a more basic problem than I thought, and it has to do with those insulators. The brass plate is "hot" from contact from the spring-loaded wire that comes out of the top of the steering column and fits into the recess in the center. Consequently, the plate has to be insulated from what we are calling the "horn button" (actually the hub assembly that fits on the top of the steering wheel with the plastic horn button in the middle). If the plate is not properly insulated, current will be grounding through the top hub assembly to the bottom hub of the steering wheel through the three mounting screws that hold the top and bottom hub together, and the horn will be constantly sounding (which is what you have). So the plate has to be completely insulated from the three studs on the top hub. You mention the "two sets of insulators over the studs" in your second photo. I think the outer, larger fiber washer has to go on top of the plate, between the plate and the nut, in order to insulate the plate. Am I making sense? And the nuts are not conventional, solid metal nuts, correct? Please take all my comments with a grain of salt since I'm still not confident I'm remembering this correctly. However, you have now made me sufficiently curious that I'm going to pull the top hub and horn ring off my car and take a look. (See what you've done! 😄) I will report back later today. The nuts that hold the plate onto those studs still have to be adjusted properly, but as I say, I think you have a more basic problem to deal with first.
  15. No rubber donut that I recall. There are fiber washers on the three studs to insulate the brass plate from the center hub.
  16. Jim, I think I remember the basic idea, but it would be very helpful if you could post a photo of the parts. I agree that the diagram in the manual is completely useless. If I recall correctly, the three-spoked horn ring is held in place on the back of the center hub by a brass plate that is attached to the hub with three nuts that screw onto three studs. A large spring goes in between the brass plate and the center of the horn ring so that the ring is held in tension up against the center hub, but can be "rocked" when you push the ring which, in turn, causes one of the spokes to make contact with the back of the steering wheel hub creating a ground and sounding the horn. Does that make sense? And, as I said before, it's the adjustment of the three nuts that is critical. The brass plate is "hot" from contact with the spring-loaded end of the wire that comes up the inside of the steering column, and the current is passed from the brass plate to the spokes of the horn ring. But if I remember correctly, it is the adjustment of those three nuts that controls the distance between the spokes and the back of the steering wheel hub. If it's too close, the spokes will be in contact as soon as you tighten up the three bolts that hold the center hub to the wheel, and you will have constant honking. If it's too far, you won't get proper contact even if you're pushing on the ring. If you can post some photos, that would be a big help.
  17. What a great hobby this is! It's wonderful to see people helping each other in real time.
  18. The adjustment is a bit tricky. I also changed to a new horn button a while back, and I unfortunately didn't pay attention to how things were positioned before I took everything apart. As you say, there's not much there. But the key is the adjustment of the three nuts that hold the bottom plate onto the back of the button. It's been long enough so I can't remember exactly how it works. I just remember that if the nuts are too tight, the horn will honk all the time, and if they are too loose, the horn won't honk at all when you push on the horn ring. Or vice-versa -- I can't remember. How's that for help! 😄 Anyhow, if you examine it closely, I think you will figure it out.
  19. I think this is an interesting car, but I agree that it's priced a bit optimistically, even assuming that everything the seller says is true about how much he had put into it. To my eye, the '42 is much cleaner and better looking than the postwar models. The wrap-around horizontal chrome bars are very distinctive, and nicely repeated on the rear fenders, and in very good shape on this car. It has a much more unified look to me than the big pot metal egg crate grill that they stuck on after the war (and I'm saying that even though I had a '48 Windsor which I loved). What would bug me about this particular car though is the state of the dash plastic. As I commented on the other thread on the '41 New Yorker in Wyoming, the plastic on the '41s and '42s generally did not hold up well. On this car you see the typical melted and distorted panel above the speaker grill, as well as the broken glove box door (which the seller maybe attempted to obscure by taking the main dash photo with the glove box open!). I would wager that you will never find replacements for these pieces unless you're willing to pay a fortune for them. Even the pieces that are completely intact on the steering wheel and window garnish moldings seem to have a rough surface on them, unlike the plastic on the New Yorker. (I know I'm a broken record on this, but I still think that New Yorker would make a great project for someone willing to do the work. I should probably just either buy it myself or shut up! 😄)
  20. I would add that the Special or Super is actually fine on the highway if you have the optional 3.9 rear end. I have a Super with the 3.9 and and it cruises comfortably at 60-65 mph. The standard rear end on the Special and Super was 4.4. I have not driven one with that set up, but I have heard that it's not comfortable over 50-55. In previous years, the Century was lighter than the Roadmaster and therefore performed better. However, I recently learned from Pete Phillips's excellent article on the '41 in the May issue of the BCA Bugle that the Century in '41 actually weighed the same as the Roadmaster. As Pete says: "... the 'banker's hot rod' or Roadmaster engine in the lightweight Special series body does not apply this year. With the same weight, same wheelbase, and same engine as a Roadmaster, one has to assume the the '41 Century is no faster than a '41 Roadmaster."
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