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1967 - 1997 Riviera

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About 1967 - 1997 Riviera

  • Birthday 04/14/1959

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  1. Jolly_John: I know that this is 7+ years after the fact, but do you still have this part?
  2. If you want to really experience a foul-smelling lubricant, find someone who owns a last generation (1996-99) Riviera who is in the process of changing-out the supercharger lubricating oil after some extended running time without a change. It smells so bad, like rotting hog flesh, that I wonder if it is also lard or tallow based, and turns rancid over time. You wouldn't want to get it on you under any circumstance. I know from experience.
  3. "Is it the lighting or are the Bellville washers installed cup side out? If so, they should be flipped." Correct. Looks like the Belleville washers on the manifold are on backwards. They are supposed to act like a disc spring under compression when the bolts are tightened.
  4. Whatever you do, please do not scrap the engine that is in the car now.
  5. Yeah, that is a really cute buggy you have there! The contrasting colors of the white tires & wheels against the "Bluebird" blue body and black fenders is very eye catching. Is that a picnic basket on the running board? Imagine going on a summer picnic in 1910 with that, and with your wife wearing a typical long, white cotton dress and big white hat that women wore back then.
  6. "... I'm also curious about your conclusion that old low octane fuel is less volatile than modern higher octane fuel when I know for a fact the higher the octane rating the higher the flash point temperature of the fuel and the slower the flame propagation. High octane fuels were developed to prevent detonation or preignition in high compression engines. The 31 Buick engines were all around 4-5 to 1 compression ratios and today's gas lawnmowers have higher compression than that. A bigger concern for modern higher octane fuels in our low compression engines is completing the combustion cycle before the exhaust valve opens to avoid burned exhaust valves and high exhaust temperatures due to fuel still burning after the exhaust valve opens. I try to run only ethanol free fuel and as far as I can tell the ethanol free stuff is only available in 84 or 85 octane which is if anything, too high octane for our low compression engines, the flame propagation rate is low and it is clearly aimed at higher compression engines ..." What puzzles me is, given what you state above, why you are using 94 octane gas? Why not use just 87 octane ethanol-free?
  7. Wow...That is SHARP!...SHARP!!...SHARP!!!
  8. "Then painted with durable tractor implement paint and applied some graphite paste lubricant before re-assembling." I have read others on here mention that you should not apply any kind of lubricant between the individual leaf spring elements because the surface friction that exists between adjacent leafs as they flex helps them do their work. Just saying.
  9. Have you checked your return springs to see if they are binding or have lost tension?
  10. To make a long story short, in 1994, two PhDs at the Battelle Institute, doing Tribology research for, and funded by, an engine manufacturer, determined that break-in is still essential for long, trouble-free engine life, despite modern manufacturing methods. The manufacturer wanted to build an engine they envisioned could operate continuously for 1,000 hours under full load, at wide open throttle, without failure. They determined that proper break-in required: 1) Initially using a lighter weight or viscosity oil than would be used in normal operation, say 30 weight instead of 40 or 20 weight instead of 30; 2) Running the engine under light to moderate load at lower RPMs, avoiding higher speed operation; 3) Draining-out the first fill of the lighter weight oil at about 25 miles of continuous operation, that is, 12 miles out and 12 miles back, observing point #2 (plus the filter being changed) and while still oil is still hot; 4) Refill with the light weight oil, plus install new filter, and then running for about 50-100 miles of operation, observing point #2. Then drain and refill plus another new filter, as in point #3, and drive an additional 250 miles; 5) Then drain the lighter weight oil, while still hot, change filter, and put in the oil that the engine will us in normal operation. Then drive normally. The idea was to allow the microscopic asperities that remain on the main and rod bearing journals, left over from the manufacturing operation even after grinding, to gradually break free, and for the bearing material and journals to “mate” or burnish themselves to each other before normal operation began. Until they followed this break-in procedure, the researchers never reached 1,000 hours of severe duty operation. I would also agree with others not to use Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase at all, only in the fuel system – and only if you need it down the road. Also, do not “drive it like you stole it” like some wise guys tell you to do.
  11. The last time I had to repair something made of wood back together again (a trash bin), I used a Super Glue variation that was supposed to have some flex in the joint after it cured yet still remain tightly bonded together. I injected the glue into the pre-drilled holes, put in the brass screws and used a clamp to hold it all together overnight. After more than a year of rough usage, it is holding tight. So there must be some modern glues one can use that will solve both problems of the wood framing remaining bonded tight, yet not so rigidly that they won't flex a little bit.
  12. I don’t own a nailhead Buick. Since that engine design was last made in 1966, I’d like to ask a novice question. Just where is a new timing chain sourced from these days? A few years ago, we bought square drive chain for our scheduled machinery overhaul from a vendor who sourced the chain from China (which we were not aware of.) In a very short time after installation, we were experiencing drive failures and jams because the chain had stretched like salt water taffy. We took the links to a lab and found that, while they were the correct steel analysis we specified, they were not heat treated. Just formed and left in the fully annealed condition. Testing of our spares in inventory was the same. Evidently, China does not heat treat much of what they make. After that, we added a hardness specification and yield & tensile test results documentation to our specs. Then we had no more problems.
  13. I normally don’t like dark colored convertibles because, to me at least, the dark color defeats the car’s purpose of keeping cool on sunny days. But I’d have made an exception for this car. Just look at the mirror shine of the navy blue paint in the video. With all the fires happening, I hope it left California just to avoid being burned-up one day.
  14. The 1941 is my favorite pre-war model for many reasons. Just my two cents, but I believe all 1941s should have fender skirts. To my eye at least, and with those spears added, they give the finishing touch to an already sleek design and make it even sleeker.
  15. Since you stated that the vibration is an "...intermittent shimmy...at all speeds, usually lasting 10 to 30 seconds before smoothing out again", and you've performed an inspection of tires, suspension and steering without pinpointing the problem, you might have what is known as a natural frequency or "beat frequency" vibration that is emanating from the drive line.
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