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Everything posted by Brian_Heil

  1. This is not the correct clearance. 0.001 inch total clearance per inch of journal diameter is standard practice.
  2. 1923 six has a tapered nose set screw instead of a cotter. Not sure when that started. there is a threaded boss on the wrist pin boss of the piston. Wrist pin has a matching tapered hole. Not the greatest but a step better than a cotter pin. Plain screwdriver slot in the set screw you hit with an impact driver as hard as you dare to set it. The teflon buttons are widely used. Easier than matching snap ring grooves.
  3. Just a thought, but if the arms and geometry are close, dwell, is, well, dwell. The coil will never know. Just tweak the arms so the two points are square/perpendicular to each other. The points on one of these units will never wear out in your lifetime. There is enough material in them to dress them every year. And another trick for dialing in your dwell with a meter is to tweak the gap by bending the arm with a pair of needle nose pliers. Playing with that small nut is like working on a watch.
  4. Reminds me of the guy who took a turnbuckle off a screen door and fashioned an adjustable lockable timing rod to dial in his timing perfect with a timing light. It can be frustrating loosening that jam nut, moving the rotor, re-tightening the jam nut, re-installing the cap and then checking the timing to see how close you got or didn’t get. Ha.
  5. Here is a random 1923 controls pic off the internet
  6. Cooper Trendsetters Made in USA
  7. First upgrade I made to my car when I bought it. Upgrade the rear window glass and windwings too if you have them.
  8. Who was the fellow who was putting together and selling early tool kits and running notices for same in the Bugle? Have not seen the adds recently.
  9. And I should have added that for me and the earlier Buicks, both levers up is closed throttle and full retard spark I leave my spark lever fully advanced though since it starts just fine there. The only time I retard it is to impress someone with how slow I can get it to idle.
  10. Yes, yours is different than 1923. In 23 both throttle and spark are on the right-hand side gas lever is longer/outer, spark lever shorter/inner But you get the point, set your full retarded base timing 14 degrees more advanced than the book with your lever in the full retard position.
  11. Inspect the rubbing block on any NOS points very carefully at the small rivets Request detailed pics first The 100 year old block material on many has started to crack and break down Every set I inspected at Hershey last year were bad My 1923's rubbing block is repaired with JB Weld. Been running that way for years.
  12. These W89D plugs are taller/longer than the AC Titan your Buick came with so they have a propensity to short out to the spark plug cover. Add some 90 degree spark plug boots to correct the grounding issue a you will be good-to-go. I found some used boots and slit them with a razor blade down the inside seam and they just sort of snap on and the cover holds them in place. The plug Larry mentions works very well. I just installed a new set.
  13. We had 178 Buicks in 2018. Hoping to break 200 in 2019!
  14. What happens is the brake backing plate rivets work loose over the years so the brake reaction member/arm has to carry more of the load and finally after many cycles, fails. You have to correct both the rivet issue (I drilled them out and put in larger diameter grade 8 bolts) and then get a very competent welder to V grinds the fracture and repairs it.
  15. The failure of the rear brake reaction arm shown in the pic is a common failure. Cast steel and still fails. Both of mine L & R have been repaired. The repair is now over 20 years and 40,000 miles so I think we solved it. You mentioned reliability above. I took my 1923 for a 217 mile outing last weekend. In 2017 we went on a 1485 mile 10 day vacation and only had to lift the hood to check the oil. Where do you want to go?
  16. My shaft has looked like that for 25 years Pack it. Get the correct graphite impregnated packing. Restoration Supply carries it as do others. Baloney cut the mating ends as you make donuts to fill the gland. It will take several. Passed right through Mason in my Buick on the way to and from The Gilmore last weekend. I’m in Fenton.
  17. Here is the latest National Meet Schedule. Note the PWD Meeting date/time/location. Any early schedule like this is subject to change, so double check your registration materials once at the meet. Thx!
  18. I have a Mickey Mouse eared cap in my box of stuff. My ‘23 can’t use it as someone welded a more modern three tab filler neck to my tank by the looks of it, in the 50s. If if someone needs it let me know in a PM and we can see what you think it’s worth. As with what little ‘loot’ I have, more interested it helping someone than getting rich.
  19. Grit and metal do not ‘float’ but they are both in suspension within the oil. I have analyzed many vehicle and dyno test oil filters in my career. Metallic material and byproducts of combustion and debris do find their way to a filter element. We sent many filters to the Chem Lab for sediment analysis. After the material was separated and weighed it was put through spectral analysis for content. I can’t do anything about the combustion byproducts in my non filtered 1923 except use an API rated detergent oil that puts this material in suspension and it gets removed with the frequent oil changes. The ferritic material from the rings, pistons and bores will and does collect with a strong magnet. Best I can do in my situation.
  20. Someone else will have to answer. I know the teens and early 20s The Buick engine was all new for 1924.
  21. I have but I’m certain the stock pump could not handle the restriction of a filter. I would have no oil flow under some conditions.
  22. OK, I couldn’t stand it any more. Here is #3. 217 touring miles on the W89D and ~500 miles of who knows what on the 3076. Tom Black, thank you!
  23. (Mine is actually on the outside as well for the same reason. One on the diff too. Need one for the trans next)
  24. Yep. I had a nice visit with him as well.
  25. I have a hard drive magnet in my pan. It’s so strong it’s all you can do to pry it off with your fingers. I buy a case of 12 quarts. Put 6 in the engine. When the remaining six are gone @ ~150 miles per quart I start the whole cycle over. So 150 x 6 = 900 miles. Today’s oil is far superior to the oil of the 1920s. Oil’s cheap compared to machine shop rates.