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Everything posted by Brian_Heil

  1. The 1923 6 cyl push rod is a bi metal affair. Half steel half aluminum for thermal expansion purposes. Pretty sure I can help with the parts contact me via the email in my signature
  2. Andy Covered in great detail in several previous posts. Try the search feature for just this forum and a few key words and see what you find. Get back with us if you still need assistance.
  3. I have this exact one. I already had a 12v air pump which I run off this battery pack. The packs that also include the air pump are also available. Two 12v plug outlets, a USB charging port, trouble light and emergency flashing strobe too. Harbor Freight. Cheap. 4 years old and still strong and dependable Move from car to car including modern car for vacations etc. As Mark said, we have assisted many who are less prepared. On tour, bring it into the hotel at night and charge it. Have also used it at home to charge phones during a power outage.
  4. $15,000 and reserve not met. Interesting to click on the link and see the bid history for amount and timing. At least no one went crazy bidding. Hard to buy a car based on just pics and a write up without driving it and live inspection etc.. Based on that I’d say the bidders were realistic.
  5. Never seen that one. 1923s had a built in lock on the base of the shifter new that year.
  6. Two comments. All your core plugs are in a race to disappear and this one just happens to be in the lead. The others are still in the race and will follow. But we’ve all been where you are at some time or another. I once used a very large ‘C’ shaped valve spring compressor to install a plug in a difficult location on another type of engine where I could not swing a hammer.
  7. All bumpers were aftermarket. In this case, not sure how you would get the spare on and off without removing it first. Most rear bumpers were split to avoid this issue with the spare acting as the center ‘bumper’. This looks like it might be a front bumper adapted to fit on the rear. Rub strips are an add on too. Once you mount the spare, not a great deal of room between it and the back of the tub anyway. Will be interesting to see what this one goes for.
  8. Not mine but these are great cars.
  9. Not mine but I have one just like it. Great car. Have toured mine everywhere.
  10. I passed on one years ago for my 1923 Model 45 Well made and great condition but a chore to store plus I don't drive my car in the winter.
  11. The round front axle and crank location are key to making it a model 35
  12. As a recent new owner of a 1911 Model 33 Buick, I have been working on my early Buick identification skills. I'm no expert but here is what I do. F's are easy, just look for the big flywheel hanging down mid car for the under seat 2 cylinder motor and the fuel fill cap mid way down the hood.. At a glance when one passes an early Buick on the road, front doors or no front doors? Front doors were added in most cases in 1912. (True for many other brands too.) Right hand drive or left? Buick went left hand drive in 1914. Leading edge of the front fender and trailing edge of the rear fender. What do they look like? With that said I've seen several fender swaps I assume due to damage back in the day. Hand crank position. Through the radiator, through the radiator surround or through the frame front cross member? Shift controls. Pod inside the car is 1912. First year but not on all models. Front axle. Round, round with a drop or forged I beam with or without a drop? Door handles or none and style. Hinge placement. Spring perch ends, style. Cowl. Flat or curved? If you are lucky enough, wheel base length. With this information I ply through my trusty 70 Years of Buick. With this car we have 4 doors, right hand drive, and internal shift pod, round dropped front axle, crank through the front cross member that has a drop also. I say 1912 Model 35. Note the rearward windshield supports are add ons.
  13. Sounds like an earlier carb than a ‘23.
  14. Brass knob top even with end of clicker arm. 3/4 turn out with the screw on the bottom. Believe the book says 1 1/2. Guessing my needle is very worn. All this assumes correct Marvel with correct damper spring and a well sealing flapper valve. Good float and float height and float not loose and rubbing on bowl wall.
  15. In 2017 we drove our 1923 to the 2017 BCA National Meet in Brookfield Wisconsin, then the PWD After Tour, then around Lake Michigan, across the U.P. and the bridge and down the other side of Lake Michigan. 1485 miles total and the Buick never missed a beat. Here we are crossing Lake Michigan on the high speed ferry out of Muskegon.
  16. Considering making the Snappers Tour via the Algonac Ferry and the BCA Meet via the Pelee Island Ferry as well but driving the whole distance including the 175 miles home and how many hundred on the Tour? Could easily be 700 or 800 total. And what about a PWD After Tour? Maybe 1000 total.
  17. The 6’s were totally new cars for 1924 All new engine 4 wheel brakes All new body style. The 4’s were carryover and on their way out but still got the new bodies and brakes.
  18. I tried adding a plug to my 6V car thinking it would charge a 5V phone car charger. Nope. The cord needs about a minimum of 10V to produce 5V.
  19. How about we start a new thread for 2020 and we ask that this one get ‘unpinned’ and the new one for 2020 pinned?
  20. 12V jump box here too. Move it from car to car and remove it when you don't want it. Bring it in the hotel room for an overnight charge. But it will run two phones for weeks. Heck, have used it in the house when the kids visit and only bring car chargers for their phones. I already had a good 12V air pump but the jump box powers it well. Good Karma too. Helped lots of people with it and the pump but never used it for a flat yet.