1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)

[Bloo]

14 hours ago, 1967 - 1997 Riviera said:

Regarding your fourth question concerning the rubber gearshift boot, I am no expert, but all the gearshift boots I've encountered sat on top of the carpeting.

 

 

18 hours ago, Gary W said:

4.  Does the gearshift boot sit on top of the carpet after its down?

 

HAHA! Ok Gary, I was hoping you were going to answer this question.

 

For anyone else following along who don't know what we are talking about here, a floor-shifted Buick Special, as well as my 1936 Pontiac (which uses a Buick Special-derived transmission), have a very odd shift mechanism. There is not a big tall steel collar around the shift lever where it sticks through the carpet. There is just a square thing maybe an inch (or less!) tall. There is a square boot that fits tightly on the square protrusion.

 

On the Pontiac, the square thing is too low for the entire boot to be on top of the carpet. It would just fall off. Sagging motor mounts? Maybe, but it looks like that wouldn't make enough difference. It doesn't seem likely to me that they would have cut a big square hole in the mat (or carpet) for that square boot to protrude through 3/8 or maybe 1/2 inch.

 

My current theory is that they must have piled a bunch of thicker jute in the center and ONLY the little rubber nipple at the top of the boot protrudes through the mat (or carpet). I am hoping someone can confirm or deny this. This view is supported by the fact that the pre-punched rubber front mats on Bobs Automobilia appear to have only a tiny round hole where the shifter pokes through. Admittedly, those aren't very good pictures.

 

 

 

Edited November 2, 2017 by Bloo (see edit history)

[Bloo]

4 hours ago, Gary W said:

1.  Is the first cut through the binding up top to get the steering column in?  (I hate cutting through the binding but I don't see any other way)

 

I have not done exactly what you are doing with Lebaron Bonney stuff. What I have done is make a bunch of carpets from yardage (from scratch) in the days before kits were commonly available. As far as I know cutting is the only way, but I am open to suggestions. I am pretty sure the original carpet in later (50s) GMs were cut at that spot.. I used to lockstitch the binding where I was going to cut it, so the stitching wouldn't unravel.

 

4 hours ago, Gary W said:

5. I have rubber grommets in the floor of the car that the emergency brake cable, the high/low beam switch come through.  Are there any finish grommets around those when they go through the carpet?  Or do they just poke through an unfinished hole?

 

I would love to know the answer to this too. Every carpet kit in the world seems to come with a dimmer switch grommet. I don't know if these prewar Buicks (and Pontiacs) had them. Hopefully someone in here knows.

 

One thing about that dimmer switch hole, it winds up wrong on nearly every car. I would cut that dead last. Put the carpet in, stomp on it, maybe even drive it some. That ALWAYS seems to pull into an oval-shaped hole after the fact. A grommet helps conceal it, but usually isn't enough.

[Spinneyhill]

14 minutes ago, Bloo said:

That ALWAYS seems to pull into an oval-shaped hole after the fact

 

The carpet moves. Every time you get in or out you push the carpet towards the centre. Floor mats in my modern heaps move towards the centre.

 

The only way to prevent that is to fasten the carpet down, as far as I can see. These cars have very little shape to fit the carpet onto to hold it in place. Having said that, there will be a "usual" place for the carpet to go to in service, related to the shape of the floor, the way the operators get in and out, the stiffness of the carpet (i.e. how much it crumples up against something), how many projections there are through it that hold it in place and where they are, and so on.

[Bloo]

Even if you fasten the carpet down, it still happens. As the carpet gets used, it starts to take the shape of the floor, and the pad compresses. The carpet pulls farther away from the kick panel. A gap opens up "southeast" of the button, right where it shows the most.

[LAS VEGAS DAVE]

Our 38 Special has a rubber mat but not carpet, did only the 37 have carpet?

 

[Bloo]

4 hours ago, LAS VEGAS DAVE said:

Our 38 Special has a rubber mat but not carpet, did only the 37 have carpet?

 

 

What do you have in the back seat area?

[Gary W]

Thursday November 2, 2017:  Seat Mechanism and Paint update:

 

I installed the front seat mechanism last night.  I'm so glad I took a lot of photos during disassembly because when I bought the car, Harry (the previous owner) had mounted the seat back about 6" to accommodate his six-foot + frame.  It was back so far that when I purchased the car, I literally could not reach the pedals! 

When I removed the rugs and batting, I realized that the original tapped holes were being used but not for their original purpose.  So I carefully made notes at that time so I could mount the seat in it's original position for my 5'7" frame!  I also found a bolt sheared off in the floor that I didn't even realize was there, so that had to be drilled out as well.

 

 

 

Flashback to January.  In this photo my index finger is actually on the bolt that is supposed to hold that seat retainer in position.  (Arrow is pointing to it)

I realized that Harry mounted the seat back for his comfort.  

 

 

So, I made this note sheet for myself.  The rear roller was just drilled through the floor back there.  In this photo you can see the front bar  assembly was shifted back so the two front bolts are still in the floor.  The "ratchet" mechanism was also moved back.  So I made these notes to remind myself how to mount these parts.  These were mounted straight to the floor with a very thin rubber pad under each part.  I mounted them straight to my Dynamat.

 

 

Just using the photo from January as a map and finger pressure I was able to  find and depress the bolt openings.  A sharp blade was all that was needed to lift the Dynamat off the threaded holes.

 

 

I had to order some new bolts to replace the missing ones.  I like everything to look as authentic as possible so I ground off the head markings.

 

 

A quick touch to the wheel and the head is smooth like the originals.

 

 

Here's the part from McMaster Carr and the transition from marked to smooth and finally painted before installation.

 

 

For those interested, it's part # 93190A345.  They are perfect to mount the seat assembly into the threaded holes in the floor.

 

 

 

You can see the threaded holes in the floor.

 

 

I kept that photo as a guide throughout the install.

 

 

On the passenger side, I opened up the one hole to find a bolt sheared off under there.

 

 

I drilled it straight down the middle using a left thread drill bit, hoping that while the drill was running it would unscrew the broken bolt.  But it didn't.

I had to use a punch to collapse it in and remove it.

 

 

Here's the remains of the bolt when it  finally came out.

 

 

 

 

PAINT SHOP UPDATE:

 

 

Rear License Plate and Lamp in yellow self-etch and today....

 

 

Painted and ready to be rebuilt!

 

 

Fenders are in the sanding phase now.  

 

 

 

 

Drivers front fender still has the black guide coat.  It will be all sanded today.  

Then the rubberized undercoat applied to both fenders and finally,  the base coat, clear coat...

 

 

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 5, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history)

[LAS VEGAS DAVE]

17 hours ago, Bloo said:

 

What do you have in the back seat area?

 

There is carpet in the back. I don't think any was ever in the front. 

Edited November 3, 2017 by LAS VEGAS DAVE (see edit history)

[Gary W]

Friday November 3, 2017:  Trippe Light and Heater Wiring Help

 

I want to install the switches tonight but I need some advice on wiring.

 

 

These are the switches I want to install under the dash.  

 

 

Back side.  Both marked "BAT" where the hot wire gets attached.  

 

 

Here's a close up of Buick's wiring as it relates to the charge indicator

At first, It didn't make sense to me,  showing the "hot" wire from the battery connecting to the "-" or discharge side of the meter.

And the fuel gauge, ignition switch.. come off the "+" charge side..

I automatically assumed the hot wire would go to the "+" side, and all accessories would feed off the "-" side.

So, I wired according to the Buick diagram above.

 

 

Another close-up of the Series 40 wiring diagram clearly showing the "hot" wire from the battery goes directly to the "-" side of the charge indicator

And the thermo circuit breaker, (and by default, the cigar lighter), the ignition switch  and the gas gauge feed off the "+" side.

 

So here is my question:

 

When I turn on the heater or Trippe Lamps, should the charge meter indicate a draw on the system? (Needle moves to "discharge")

If so, do I wire these through the thermo-circuit breaker or directly from the "+" side of the charge indicator?

 

AND....  Can I run one "hot" wire from the "+" side of the charge indicator to the "BAT" terminal of one switch and simply jump a wire over to the other "BAT" terminal on the other switch?

Or should I wire the Trippe lights to the thermo circuit breaker and wire the heater through the charge indicator??

Any advice please.....

 

Thanks!

Gary

[MCHinson]

Gary,

 

It looks like you have a spare terminal, Number 6, on the light switch. If you want to use the breaker in the light swith to protect those, you could wire to that terminal. If you would prefer to avoid that additional current running through the light switch, which might be a good idea, You can use a separate fuse or circuit breaker and connect them to anywhere on the 12 gauge wire between the + side of the charge indicator and the #1 terminal of the headlamp switch circuit breaker. You could either connect it to the + terminal of the charge indicator, the #1 terminal of the headlamp switch, or you could splice it into the 12 gauge wire between the two. 

[DonMicheletti]

The circuit breaker on the headlight switch probably will not carry the additional load of the Trippe lights with the headlights on too. Id wire them directly, with some type of fusing, to the charge indicator.

In my opinion, all acessories should go through the ignition switch (I added a relay to take the additional load off the switch). I would also reroute the instrument lights through the ignition switch too - otherwise they can easily be left on presenting you with a dead battery later.

 

[Gary W]

Thanks Matt and Don...

So, If I run a feed wire from #1 Terminal of light switch, through a fuse, to the "BAT" terminal of the Trippe Light switch, the charge indicator should show a discharge when the lights are on?

 

Also, is it acceptable to simply wire a jumper from the Trippe Light "BAT" terminal to the Heater "BAT" terminal so they both get power from the same source or should I run a separate feed wire for the heater?

 

AND... If I connect them through the ignition switch, does that bypass the charge indicator?  Or will it still show discharge when the heater and/or Trippes are on?

 

Hope I'm not confusing the issue here, Just don't want to overload things

[1967 - 1997 Riviera]

2 hours ago, Gary W said:

Friday November 3, 2017:  Trippe Light and Heater Wiring Help

 

I want to install the switches tonight but I need some advice on wiring.

 

 

These are the switches I want to install under the dash.  

 

 

Back side.  Both marked "BAT" where the hot wire gets attached.  

 

 

Here's a close up of Buick's wiring as it relates to the charge indicator

At first, It didn't make sense to me,  showing the "hot" wire from the battery connecting to the "-" or discharge side of the meter.

And the fuel gauge, ignition switch.. come off the "+" charge side..

I automatically assumed the hot wire would go to the "+" side, and all accessories would feed off the "-" side.

So, I wired according to the Buick diagram above.

 

 

Another close-up of the Series 40 wiring diagram clearly showing the "hot" wire from the battery goes directly to the "-" side of the charge indicator

And the thermo circuit breaker, (and by default, the cigar lighter), the ignition switch  and the gas gauge feed off the "+" side.

 

So here is my question:

 

When I turn on the heater or Trippe Lamps, should the charge meter indicate a draw on the system? (Needle moves to "discharge")

If so, do I wire these through the thermo-circuit breaker or directly from the "+" side of the charge indicator?

 

AND....  Can I run one "hot" wire from the "+" side of the charge indicator to the "BAT" terminal of one switch and simply jump a wire over to the other "BAT" terminal on the other switch?

Or should I wire the Trippe lights to the thermo circuit breaker and wire the heater through the charge indicator??

Any advice please.....

 

Thanks!

Gary

 

Yes, when you turn on either the heater fan or the Trippe lights, the charge meter should dip momentarily to the discharge side.

 

Can't help you with the rest because I'm all confused!

[DonMicheletti]

Anything through the ignition switch will go through the charge meter.

Terminal #1 on the light switch has 3 connecting points. The terminal with the wire from the charge meter will always be hot. Anything connected to that will go mthrough the charge meter. However, the other 2 terminals go through the circuit breaker. I would not connect anything to them - it may overload the breaker.

Anything else I'd power via the ignition switch so all goes off when the ignition is off.

 

 

[Jack Worstell]

It is confusing the way Buick labelled the ammeter.....the  "+"  and  "-"     bit.         To me it's easier just to ignore the  +     and  -      designations but otherwise follow the Buick drawings.   (  frankly I wonder if the  +    and  -   designations were a typo.......but it really doesn't matter )

 

The previous advice about being careful not to put too many amps thru the ignition switch I think is good advice....in fact we did this on out 1937 Special.   It's not that hard to add a relay

( triggered by the ignition switch )   to prevent damage to the ignition switch contacts.      I think most auto stores have a relay that would work OK for this purpose.

 

We added quite a few accessories to our 1937    (including overdrive relay and solenoid )    Some things ended up on ignition hot circuits and some ( for example all lights )  ended up on battery hot circuits.   We added a little "switchboard" under the dash so that later on we could switch any given component from one type  circuit to the other type circuit if we should change our mind about something   ( eg  maybe down the road we might want to change the radio from ignition hot to battery hot )

 

Jack Worstell

[27donb]

6 minutes ago, Jack Worstell said:

It is confusing the way Buick labelled the ammeter.....the  "+"  and  "-"     bit.         To me it's easier just to ignore the  +     and  -      designations but otherwise follow the Buick drawings.   (  frankly I wonder if the  +    and  -   designations were a typo.......but it really doesn't matter )

 

The previous advice about being careful not to put too many amps thru the ignition switch I think is good advice....in fact we did this on out 1937 Special.   It's not that hard to add a relay

( triggered by the ignition switch )   to prevent damage to the ignition switch contacts.      I think most auto stores have a relay that would work OK for this purpose.

 

We added quite a few accessories to our 1937    (including overdrive relay and solenoid )    Some things ended up on ignition hot circuits and some ( for example all lights )  ended up on battery hot circuits.   We added a little "switchboard" under the dash so that later on we could switch any given component from one type  circuit to the other type circuit if we should change our mind about something   ( eg  maybe down the road we might want to change the radio from ignition hot to battery hot )

 

Jack Worstell

 

Good advise about adding a relay and not putting to many amps through the ignition switch. 

 

The troubleshooting section of the manual for my 27 says something like if the ammeter readings are reversed, then reverse the wires on the back of the gage.  It's only a directional flow meter, if you connect to the wrong side you will know it by the readings, easy to correct. 

[Daves1940Buick56S]

No, not a typo. If you take into consideration how the current flows it is correct. First look at the ammeter as if it were out of the circuit. If you were to connect a voltage source to the plus (positive) term and a load to the minus (negative) term, when the circuit is completed the current flows from the source to the positive term, thru the meter which deflects to the right showing positive flow current, out the negative term and thru the load and back to the source.

 

Now put the meter back in the circuit. Now with the generator not running, the source is connected to the negative term and the load (the ignition, etc.) to the positive term. When the circuit is completed the current flows in the neg to pos direction in the meter and it deflects to the left.

 

Now add the generator into the picture. As the gen current output increases, it in effect becomes the source and the load is now on both the pos side of the meter (ignition etc) and the neg side (the battery when the generator's voltage is greater then that of the battery). So now the current flows from the source (the gen) into the pos term of the ammeter and out the neg term to the battery. The needle deflects to the right.

 

When the battery is fully charged and the gen current output is reduced to just match what is required by the car load (ignition etc) the batt and gen potential (voltage) will match and therefore no current flow thru the meter and the needle stays centered. In other words all is balanced. When you turn on the lights you unbalance the system with a discharge shown until the gen output increases to a) replace lost battery charge and match the new, higher load.

 

So this is maybe more than you want to know but does explain it in detail.

 

Now before some wag pipes in with how the electrons actually flow out the negative term of the source to the positive term, yes, we know that. But old Ben Franklin labeled current flow before we even knew about electrons. He had a 50/50 chance of being right and he was wrong in the end. But it really does not matter as we only have to consider actual electron flow when dealing with active devices such as transistors and vacuum tubes, and even then only in the design of said devices.

 

Cheers, Dave

[Jack Worstell]

27donb.........yes you make a good point and one that I should have mentioned in my post above.

 

Ammeters are easy in that if you wire them up backwards.........just flip the connection

 

Jack Worstell           

[DonMicheletti]

If you look at the guts of the ignition switch, you'll see the actual contact points are extremely small, thus the current density is very high. Adding significant loads could cause problems, as it did in my case

[Gary W]

Saturday November 4, 2017: Updates

 

Busy day around the house, so I didn't have a lot of Buick time.  But I managed to get a couple of things done:

 

 

 

Paint Shop Update:

 

Front fenders have the rubberized undercoat applied to the underside.

 

 

This coating will set over the weekend and the base / clear gets sprayed Monday morning on the upsides.

 

 

So, using the old fender welt as a guide, I started cutting and trimming the new welting.

 

 

My plan is to actually attach the new welt to either the fender or the body with double backed adhesive tape to keep it steady while the fenders are mounted.

Also, I want to punch a few holes for the screws to go through just to be sure it stays in position.  I hate when that stuff pulls out.  Looks so sloppy.

 

 

I ordered these countersunk, flanged finish washers for the interior kick panels.

 

 

The job looks much better now.  Just finishes off the panels nicely.

 

 

Then I worked on the stainless trim molding that runs down the rear quarter panel to the trunk.

First, I buffed the moldings using a slow speed wheel and jeweler's rouge.  Then finished with a hand rubbing to bring out the shine.

I did a "dry run" to be sure all the mounting clips were still aligned with the holes in the body, and made small adjustments accordingly.  (You only get one shot to get it right!)

Once I was satisfied the moldings were ready to be thrusted into position, I carefully applied a small amount of weatherstrip sealant only to the "depression" at the base of the clip.

I used 3M Black Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive and just rimmed it around the base of the clip.  My thinking was this will keep everything neat for installation and will seal the "business end" of the clip.

I'm thinking if I get caught in a rain storm, water can leak into the trunk from the holes in the body if not sealed......

 

 

"Seal each clip and hole"

 

 

I knew I read it somewhere!  Had to clean the garage to find it!

 

 

 

 

Line it up, check both sides, check again, start pushing the clips in....

 

 

A little persuasion and she snapped right into position.

 

 

It's so nice seeing some of the finish parts going back on!

 

 

Left side.

 

 

 

Have a great day out there!

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 5, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history)

[kgreen]

I once read a thread on another forum titled "restoring for the next generation".  I think you are doing that at the very least.  In fact, I suspect that 70 years from now when that car is restored again, GM will get a lot more credit for the care with which they assembled cars than they deserve, based on the effort that you put into this car.

[DonMicheletti]

Adding the stainless trim really spices things up and it is fun and easy.

Question?  On a '38 there is fender welting only at the rear between the fender and body and none at the front where the fenders bolt to the "nose piece". Might check with the '37 experts. (If it mmatters)

[DonMicheletti]

Fender welt:

 

Covered here (Pg25 I think)

 

http://www.1937and1938buicks.com/The-Torque-Tube/Volume XVI Issue 1 (September-October 1997) .pdf

[pont35cpe]

Gary, I noticed a posting of your headlight doors on `37-`38 Headlamp Rings. What stood out was you haven`t detailed the grooves in the rings, maybe you just haven`t got to it yet. I`m trying your method to do the grooves on all my `36 dash chrome. Excellent job on everything!!  Tom

[Gary W]

I didn't know that the rims were painted.  If so, I can do them right on the car.

Thanks for the heads up!

G

[Gary W]

Sunday November 5, 2017:  One Year Ago Today!

 

One year ago today, November 5, 2016, I purchased my Buick.

Drove it home and immediately joined this Forum, the BCA and the '36 - '38 clubs.

Been a busy year so far!

 

 

Here she sits, all windows down trying to air it out!   Bullet holes and all!

 

 

Quick Video of the homecoming!

 

 

CLICK THE BLUE LINK HERE ------------------>           Buick Coming Home 11:5:2016.mov         <-------------------- CLICK THE BLUE LINK HERE

 

Thanks for all the constant advice, encouragement and the many followers of my thread!

Gary

[MCHinson]

2 hours ago, Gary W said:

I didn't know that the rims were painted.  If so, I can do them right on the car.

Thanks for the heads up!

G

 

Gary,

 

I have never seen any headlight rims that were painted. I have never seen any with any traces or paint remaining on any original ones. I don't think that they originally had paint but would certainly love to hear from anyone who has been around long enough to have seen some when they were newer. 

[DonMicheletti]

On my '38 Special in 1973 when it was untouched - there was no paint on the headlight rims then.

[pont35cpe]

Gary, I looked at pictures of 200+ `37-`38 Buicks and found one with the grooves painted so was probably not original. Just my personal preference, the black lines really accent the chrome. If you are trying to stay 100% true to factory, there is one thing I`ve noticed, but maybe I should just keep it to myself..  Kinda surprised none of the purists have not mentioned it.  HA!!  Tom

[Daves1940Buick56S]

Are the bullet holes going back on?   KIDDING! Just kidding!

 

Cheers, Dave

[MCHinson]

21 minutes ago, pont35cpe said:

Gary, I looked at pictures of 200+ `37-`38 Buicks and found one with the grooves painted so was probably not original. Just my personal preference, the black lines really accent the chrome. If you are trying to stay 100% true to factory, there is one thing I`ve noticed, but maybe I should just keep it to myself..  Kinda surprised none of the purists have not mentioned it.  HA!!  Tom

 

What makes you think that the purists have not noticed something? Gary is doing an excellent job on his restoration. There are a few things that I have mentioned to him privately but I love the job and the documentation that he is doing. I don't think that anybody would begrudge him a few small modifications from original. I am probably considered a "purist", but there are a few things about my current restoration project that will probably deviate from absolute originality. 

[pont35cpe]

1 hour ago, MCHinson said:

 

What makes you think that the purists have not noticed something? Gary is doing an excellent job on his restoration. There are a few things that I have mentioned to him privately but I love the job and the documentation that he is doing. I don't think that anybody would begrudge him a few small modifications from original. I am probably considered a "purist", but there are a few things about my current restoration project that will probably deviate from absolute originality. 

I`m not begrudging him one bit, Gary is very open minded about everything concerning his project. I`m no purist but I know how they are when it comes to judging someones vehicle no matter how trivial it may be. 

[Gary W]

Monday November 6, 2017:  Paint Update

 

 

I arrived at the paint shop this morning before work just in time to help Bob turn the fenders over for paint.  Everything with these large fenders is easier with two guys.

 

 

7:45 am.  Bob and I just flipped them over on to the horses.

 

 

Here's how I left the shop on my way to the office.

 

 

I stopped by after work and they are shining like jewels!  The many compound curves of these fenders really look terrific!

 

 

I won't be able to get them until the weekend as they need to completely cure before Bob starts the wet sanding, buffing and hand rubbing.

But I'm ready!!!

 

Have a great night!

Gary

[LAS VEGAS DAVE]

 I am interested in seeing how you finally install the fender welting. I really enjoy this thread.

 

[Larry Schramm]

Gary,

 

Looking great.  What impeccable work. 

Edited November 9, 2017 by Larry Schramm (see edit history)

[dibarlaw]

Larry :

What I am always impressed with is there does appear that Gary and support craftsman have ROOM to work! Which I am crowded at best to do anything. It does make a difference!

The other Larry

[KongaMan]

FWIW, I would concur with the earlier suggestions to add a couple of surreptitious relays rather than run large loads through the stock switches. My experience is that the switches for heavy draw items (lights, blower, etc.) are prone to pitting and deformation after repeated use.  Besides, if you use relays, you will see less voltage drop (i.e. better performance) at the part in question.

[LAS VEGAS DAVE]

Our 38 still is wired as it was originally. It still has the stock generator and regulator. Our radio is working and all the light bulbs except the parking lights are now halogen. the ignition switch is stock and there are no relays. We drive at night almost every week. We also have the overdrive and overdrive relay but it doesn't go thru the ignition switch. I have turned on the heater and the defroster and all the lights and the radio and it still shows a charge when its moving, at an idle it goes to discharge but it does not seem to hurt anything. Normally everything is not on at once but I do that every once in a while for a test. We have new a new wiring loom made by an outfit in California so the actual wires are in good shape. Nothing wrong with relays etc but I am just saying the stock system is fine if the wiring is good and the switches are good and the connections are good.

 

[27donb]

5 hours ago, LAS VEGAS DAVE said:

 I have turned on the heater and the defroster and all the lights and the radio and it still shows a charge when its moving, at an idle it goes to discharge but it does not seem to hurt anything. Normally everything is not on at once but I do that every once in a while for a test.

 

... the stock system is fine if the wiring is good and the switches are good and the connections are good.

 

 

Turning everything on at the same time as a "test" probably isn't the best idea, because the real problem is heat from possible overloaded circuits.  You'll never know if the ignition switch is being overheated until the contacts burn out, as others have shown. 

 

Have you felt the main feed wire at the ammeter with everything on? 

 

What does the ammeter read with everything on, with the engine not running?  That will give a more accurate indication of total amps through the circuit, based on the accuracy of the gage. 

[pont35cpe]

Some of the 30s-40s parts cars I`ve bought over the years had electrical damage at the instrument cluster, and the source of the problem was the amp gauge. Bob Boyd, a guy I met and have bought Buick parts from, told me that was a common problem and how to remedy it was to bridge a piece of 10ga solid core wire from post to post of the amp gauge. He said the gauge will still show charge or discharge but only a fraction of the power travels thru the gauge.