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Spinneyhill last won the day on May 8

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About Spinneyhill

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/27/1956

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  • Location:
    Tauranga, New Zealand


  • Biography
    1930 Dodge Brothers 8
    1939 Studebaker Coupe Express

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  1. Do those drag link ends disassemble for repair?
  2. The 1929 Plymouth 55 also had the 714-J cranking motor. Here is the electrical comparison between the DR and NE motors. DR: NE:
  3. My information shows the early 1929 De Soto K fitted with a Delco Remy 714-J starter motor. The late 1929 K had the NE starter motor. The 1930 six and the 1930-31 CF eight had a 714-Q cranking motor. A 714-L was fitted to Chev 1929-33, maybe more years. Other makes too. I don't know the differences between the 714- models, but it might be worth looking for one of them?
  4. The inner seals I used were metric. No model number, they were NAK brand. Don't assume anything; ask a bearing shop or two. When the diff. gets warm (through use or the ambient temperature rises), the air inside it expands. It has to go somewhere. With the original felt and leather seals it could leak past without pushing out any oil. But with modern lip seals, it is more likely the leaking air will bring some oil with it and only release when the pressure inside rises a bit. A tiny hole in the top of the housing will prevent that. Ask the internet about axle housing breathers and you should see some designs. It must be shielded of course to keep dirt out.
  5. One used to be able to buy oversized cups for use in honed cylinders.
  6. This nice one was posted the other day by @keithb7: This is my one: To use these, put the drum on and adjust one shoe at the top (beside the cylinder) to just touch the drum. That is your reference. Remove the drum, fit the tool and set the tool to that reference on the shoe. Then adjust the shoes top and bottom, using a feeler gauge of thickness the book says, under your reference setting.
  7. They are a push-on zinc plated type with a circular spring clip to push onto the spark plug bulb at the top. I have the blanks and have to cut the slots and make the springs.
  8. I read a story about a Healey Allard restoration where the owner rolled under to tighten up the sump bolts to reduce the oil leak. Next thing he knew he had dismantled it.
  9. After sanding, draw over it all with chalk then wipe off. With a little luck, chalk will stick in the stamped numbers.
  10. Very impressive piece of work very well done. Did you make the vertical spark plug connectors? I need some of them for my Dodge 8.
  11. The OP last visited on Dec 6 2018. Hover over his handle to see this in the popup. Quote something or send a p.m. so an email is sent, otherwise you might never get an answer.
  12. I bought bearings and seals by size. The bearings are easy: they have a number stamped or engraved in them. But if not, just talk to your local bearing house with a bearing in hand and they will find some. The seals were a bit harder. The inner seals I found by size, modern lip seals. I think the outer seals came the same way - they were 20 years ago. Just note that with modern lip seals on both sides, especially for the inner seals, you should install a breather on the axle housing so it doesn't push oil out when it gets hot - the air inside expands and has to come out! Update. The rear wheel bearings are the same as in my 1930 Dodge Brothers 8. They are Timken 14138-14276
  13. I can't help with a spare. The PB drive axles were the same left and right and they were used on 11 models: Plymouth 1928-29 Q Ply 1929-30 U 1930-31 30U 1931 PA & 1932 PB Chrysler CJ 1930-31 CM 1931 DeSoto K 1928-30 DeSoto CK 1930 DeSoto SA 1931 DeSoto SC 1932