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About Spinneyhill

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/27/1956

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  • Gender:
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  • Location:
    Tauranga, New Zealand


  • Biography
    1930 Dodge Brothers 8
    1939 Studebaker Coupe Express

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  1. Spinneyhill

    Two tone coupe ?

    Might have a loose spoke. Wheel squeaks.
  2. Spinneyhill

    Big 1936 Chev?

    It is interesting that neither "60 years of Chevrolet" nor the Classic Car Database mention any Chev. Imperial for 1936. Neither do they mention a 7 passenger, which might be longer than a standard 5 passenger. Would Chrysler, who used the model name Imperial, have it copyrighted or trademarked, so no-one else could use that name?
  3. Spinneyhill


    Rather than buy a new one, what about sleeving it? Then the problem doesn't arise. I can't comment on how the brakes are set up RHD vs LHD, but if you post some pictures maybe we can see what might be different. Where is the m/c mounted? On my car 1930 DC-8 the master cylinder and supply tank assembly have only one part number. The only LHD and RHD parts are push rod end pins and their cotter pins. The brake pedals are different as are the pull-back springs and the spring brackets, plus the brake pedal bracket and shaft.
  4. Spinneyhill

    1929 Chrysler Imperial 77 VIN

    Here are the production numbers. It was made in the US and is a "77", model code W. Yours appears to be number 13418 out of 18526 made in 1929 to 30. https://www.allpar.com/old/model-guide/ This might be helpful too. Note the engine numbers.
  5. Spinneyhill

    1929 Chrysler Imperial 77 VIN

    Sorry, I got it wrong. It is 0 to 9 and W to D. So C135CW would be #413541. I don't know how to read a US title. Might you be looking for a tag attached to the car saying R-257-382, attached by the Boise motor vehicle reg. people?
  6. Spinneyhill

    1929 Chrysler Imperial 77 VIN

    this is the serial number of your car: C135CW, using the Chrysler FEDCO system. #313531. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 W P C H R Y S L E D
  7. Spinneyhill

    FS 1929 65 rebuilt engine and parts

    Best send a p.m. He last visited on November 7.
  8. Spinneyhill


    Bleed nipples: you can replace the bolts with bleed nipples and leave them in place. But then they are not original. I made bleed nipples by taking a bolt the same as those in the cylinders, drilling right through it axially and enlarged the hole in the head to accept a piece of brake pipe. I put a double flare on a piece of brake pipe then cut off 20 mm or so of it and soldered it into the hole in the bolt. One bleed nipple, done. The front hub and drum appear to be rivetted together: the rivets are between the wheel bolt holes. Thus the hub and drum should come off as one. Look after the wheel bearings; probably be best to clean them and repack. The rear drum looks the same: drum rivetted to the hub. You will need a puller as @keiser31 showed. But remember, if you whack the end of the puller, you are hammering on the wheel bearings. Only hit the bone ends with the hammer. If it doesn't come off, wait. Come back later and tap the puller on the dog bone ends again. Loosen the nut a couple of turns only, so the drum doesn't go far when it comes free. The nut should be very tight, like 140 lb.ft = 190 N.m. Yes, stepped cylinders are specific to side and front or rear. The larger end faces forward at each mounting and the larger cylinders are on the front. (assuming the cylinders are mounted at the top).
  9. Wow, what a marvellous achievement! Your readers may be sad, but that is purely selfish sadness that there are no more wonderful posts of tiny work well done on this model. I have smiled many times when you show a new part with a little explanation of how it was done and I marvel at your skills. 0.75 g per pound is pretty good too. After the Toronado refurbishment, will you make a nice display cabinet with streetscape diorama to display your models?
  10. Spinneyhill

    1929 Chrysler Imperial 77 VIN

    This is the sort of plaque that might be on the dash. It is called FEDCO.
  11. Spinneyhill


    You have asked about the thermostat before. I said I remembered 63 mm diameter back then rather than 53 this time.
  12. Spinneyhill

    1927 Chrysler 70 clutch

    Hello Gerry. I am sure if you go to your local clutch and whatever shop, you should be able to look something up. The diameter, distance through the steel centre and its offset front to back, diameter and splines of the centre, are probably available. You just need the right book! Chrysler 60 and 70 were the same, both early and later cars in each model. No others the same according to Chiltons 1933. My 1936 Automotive Data Book for brake and clutch lines starts at 1928. I note the 62 had a 97/8" OD facing with 6.75" ID. The 72 was a 10" OD. Check the pressure plate surface and diameter to be sure it has the right plate in it! Motor Spec's catalogue of 1934 shows the same clutch plate stock number (P-227) for 1927-30 Chry. 62, 65, 66, 70, 72. This plate was also listed for 1929-30 Dodge Victory, Standard, DA and DD. Also Fargo truck 1929-30 and Graham Bro's Truck 1929 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1.5 ton. This is a Borg and Beck 10" x 10 Spline x 1.375", original numbers appear to be 10587, 10684, 10735, 10769. Having said all that, another interchange publication says the Dodge DD has a 9" x 10 spline x 11/8". There are many interchanges for this one. So is that a 1.125" shaft or a 1.375" shaft?
  13. Spinneyhill

    Need number for 1937 Plymouth transmission tailshaft seal

    Is it on this page? https://www.ply33.com/Parts/group21#600420
  14. Spinneyhill


    Are all CFs the same? Dodge 8 DCs had either the side mount cowl lights as in the photo above or a short stalk through a hole in the cowl. Mine are on a stalk.
  15. Spinneyhill

    28 olds coupe

    What do the numbers match?