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About Spinneyhill

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/27/1956

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  • Location:
    Tauranga, New Zealand


  • Biography
    1930 Dodge Brothers 8
    1939 Studebaker Coupe Express

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  1. Each point set opens and closes in sequence. 1 open, 1 closes. 2 opens, 2 closes. 1 opens etc. They are 45o apart. This is from p. 934 of Service Station and Motor Mechanics' Manual, 1940, George George, A.M.I.A.E., M.S.A.E., M.I.A.M., F.I.C.A. Angus & Robertson, Sydney and London.
  2. No, parallel. If either set close, the circuit is made.
  3. If it were rotating faster, would the vanes go outward under centrifugal force?
  4. Boy that printing is cheap there. I had two snouted grommets printed in SLA and they were about 150NZD the pair!
  5. I wonder if it was this one, by AMSOIL: https://www.lastgreatroadtrip.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/gear-oil-comparison.pdf Is it linked on many web sites. Here is another: http://goodsenseoil.com/G2457-GearOilWhitePaper.pdf It is not independent though, so add your own pinch or two of salt.
  6. A lot of houses are being built here with the "laundry" along one interior wall. And the garage is used as a store room.
  7. Indeed. It is interesting to see the different modelling techniques when using fibreglass. Nice work and good write-ups. We are all looking forward to the next one!
  8. This will help you work out the series and what it is. https://www.classiccardatabase.com/search.php?year=1928&make=Chrysler&submit=Search The 1928 wheelbases were: 52 106" 62 109" 65 112-3/4" 72 120.5" 75 112-3/4" 80 136" You will also see there that this model was the cheapest Chrysler 65 that year. No one has said it, but first impressions are the most important. If you are serious about selling it, you need decent photos and it needs to be spotless. Decent photos have even lighting (not sun and deep shade) and are in focus. Engine photos must be from beside the engine, not 3 m away. The more photos the better. Buyers price down the more uncertainty there is.
  9. If it is just a generic puller that you don't screw into holes in the wheel hub for pulling it, make your own! Here is @Taylormade's for his 1932 Dodge Brothers:
  10. What is your technology Ron? Android tablet? Maybe we can help if we know that.
  11. What @JV Puleo has outlined is a lot like a clock repivotting procedure.... except there is no welding in a clock arbor or pivot, just a spot of cyanoacrylate on the male end before it is pushed in. The clock wheels (or gears) run on arbors and the reduced size arbor ends, called pivots, run in the clock plates. When repivotting a clock arbor, one drills a hole in the original arbor a spot under half its diameter. Then turn a new end on your replacement rod of pivot steel to be a push fit into the hole. Push in with a bit of cyanoacrylate on it. Then turn the new pivot on the new piece. If you use a twist drill in a small arbor, you might break the drill - I did on my first attempt. Then I had to remove some arbor (shorten the original shaft) and replace it with my new pivot steel, then cut the pivot further along. Getting the length right took some careful measurement. My job was a 1.8 mm diameter arbor and 0.7 mm diameter pivot. I see no reason you could not use a similar procedure, as @JV Puleo says and weld it. The shaft might be case hardened though. Others might know what to do about that before you attempt to drill it.
  12. This one looks to be the bee's knees: http://www.royalpurple.com/product/thermyl-glyde-worm-gear-oil/ The Copper Strip Corrosion test result is 1A at 100 oC. This is a good one. Unfortunately you need to find someone with a drum that will sell you a small number of litres for your application. To help educate yourself, speak to the tech, rep. of the company. Write down a list of questions.
  13. I am not sure this is the case. The important thing is the viscosity is correct and doesn't change from cold to hot so much that it is too thin when hot. There are more than one type of sulphur in EP additives. More recent additives use a less reactive form of sulphur. Other elements are used to, some of which are active with sulphur. The copper strip corrosion test ASTM D130 tells you the corrosivity of the oil (additives) on copper, which is what is corroded in brass or bronze parts by some EP additives. The rub, though, is that the corrosion rate is increased at higher temperature (chemical reactions speed up with increasing temperature). On this basis, it would be best if you did not have EP additives - remember worm gears run hot because of the type of friction. What does the owner's manual say? I have old texts that may have enough information to cross over. If you ask the www, you will find that oil changes are more frequent for worm gears than for hypoid.
  14. @billyboy was last here on 21 Nov 2016. @OL63Galxyconv was last here on 27 Oct 2013. If you want an answer, quote them or send a p.m. Either way will send them an email. You can see when they last came by if you hover over their handle. At bottom left of the popup you will see a Message button to send a Private Message. You can also send a message from the envelope button in the AACA banner at the top of the page.