Gary W

1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)

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Wednesday, December 20. 2017:  Hood Update at Paint shop and at Home

 

 

I stopped by Bob's shop over the past few days and got some photos of the progress.  

Then I realized that the hood will be ready for installation next week, so I had to get home to get all the "hood related" parts restored and ready for that day.  

 

 

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Tools of the Trade.  All the paint / primer / filler was sanded out.  There was only one small "bump-out" that required the hammer and dolly.

 

 

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Passenger's side sanded clean.  Notice how little filler is actually on the hood panels!  The entire top surface is straight and smooth, no pits, no rust.  Very Happy!

 

 

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Passenger's side in yellow self-etching prime.  It looks better already.

 

 

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Driver's side.  Again, the metal is in amazingly good shape and there is only small areas of body filler fore and aft of the hood vent.

 

 

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Top surfaces in yellow self-etch.  Today they will get a light sanding and two coats of the grey build up prime.  

Then it's to the underside to finish sanding smooth and a coat of SEM Trim Black.

 

 

HOOD VENT:

 

 

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January 11, 2017:  You can see the silver color in between the chrome ribs.

 

 

 

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Close-up  The paint has an "aluminum-like" color to it.

 

 

 

 

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Hood vent just before restoration began.

 

 

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Here are my hood vents from Paul's Chrome Plating.  They stripped off all the residual silver paint prior to chroming the ribs.

 

 

 

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First, I cut a paint stirring stick so it had a little less than a 1/2" tongue.  I wrapped the tongue with a strip of 600 grit to roughen up the surface for paint.

The rubber band allowed me to rotate the sand paper around the tongue so I had a nice fresh area at the top.

This took a long time getting in and around the bends.

 

 

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Get started, one by one, sand each area smooth.  I was careful not to hit the chrome strips so it took quite a while to finish this step.

 

 

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Bob gave me the thicker green tape, and this really cool, thin blue tape that is actually kind of elastic. 

I had to cover each chromed rib twice as the tape wasn't wide enough to cover the chrome in one sweep.

 

 

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Inch by inch, then roll the tape around the end curve.  Pinch it off so the spray paint doesn't get under the tape.

 

 

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So here is a close-up of the masked off ribs.  Then I scrubbed each insert with acetone to be sure it was nice and clean.

Finally, I used my compressor to dry everything in and around and under.

I chose the same color that I used for the door sills (in the photo above) because it is almost a perfect match to the original silver color paint I got the car with.

 

 

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This Rustoleum product is  "paint and primer" in one shot.  Here is the first coat.  

I am going to let it dry for a full week before attempting the final coat.

 

 

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Here's a close-up photo of the silver paint in the recesses.

What do you think?  Will the rustoleum hold up to the engine heat?

(I guess I'll find out first!)

 

 

HOOD HOLD DOWN CLIPS:

 

 

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These have been sitting in their bags since January.  Working my way into the bottom of the parts boxes.

 

 

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One bolt was sheared off and completely rusted to the metal support, attachment bar.

 

 

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A hacksaw, PB Blaster, vice and a small hammer.  It finally gave up.

 

 

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Off to the bench grinder and my wire wheel.  Those other square parts are the hood hold down that slide inside the center stainless hood hinge.

The new shiny, stainless bolt is for the rear hold down, as the original was way too short to support the radio installation.

The "dome" of the new carriage bolt was a bit too tall, so........

 

 

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I ground down the head so there was plenty of clearance under the stainless hinge.

 

 

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So now it's ready to go through the heavy metal block and into the cowl of the car.

The other bolt is the replacement that replaced the rusted one.  I ground the new markings off the head so it looks correct.

 

 

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Here you can see the the parts cleaning up after the wire wheel.

 

 

 

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After wire-wheeling and an acetone scrub.

 

 

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Sprayed gloss black.  Are these hood hold downs metal to metal on the fender, or should I cut a thin paper gasket under them?

 

 

STAINLESS HOOD HINGE AND STAINLESS HOOD MOLDINGS:

 

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Here's the before photo.  I removed all the molding clips and scrubbed all three parts in the sink with Bon-Ami  90% of the rust and discoloration came out.

Next, I''ll use the cotton wheel with the jewler's rouge and finish with a hand polishing using Wicked Metal Polish or Simichrome.

I didn't get to the final finish yet.  But the Bon Ami was a great first start.

 

 

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Next, I finished installing the hood bumpers into the front shroud.  There are six of these on my car.  Requires no tools.  Easy enough to bend with your fingers.

 

 

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Here's a close-up shot of the radiator support irons and the shroud bar.

 

 

 

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 I got the shroud bar installed using two spacer washers and these clips.  I know it'll need adjusting when the hood goes on to get things lined up so it's tight, but not too tight.

All the bars are powder coated "mirror black".  The clamp I cleaned with the wire wheel wheel and simply sprayed with self-etch primer and Rustoleum gloss black.

 

 

 

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Shroud bar in place.

 (The paper towel is wrapped because I have a nagging slow leak up at the upper hose.  No matter how tight I tighten that clamp. it still drips!)

 

 

Have a great day today!

 

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Gary W (see edit history)
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Glad to have you back posting on your wonderful job.  Try silicone gasket maker like Permatex ultra black on the inside of your rad hose to seal your seeping connection.  Also makes the hose slippery for easy assembly.  I usually put the parts together then let the silicone set up for a day before tightening the clamps.  Hope it works for you.

 

Regards, Gary

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Gary:

 The procedure documentation for restoring your hood louver hardware is much better than mine. I never thought anyone would be interested but I did essentially the same as you. I used small stainless screws and nuts to do the final mounting to the hood. I painted SPECIAL in red instead of Black. After I painted the letters I did several coats of clear.

Good to note that radiator /shroud bar has not been tightened. Once the hood arrives you will need at least 2 people to help in alignment adjustments. These front ends/hoods are a real BEAR to align.

Larry

 

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Edited by dibarlaw
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Maybe the clamp is so tight it has put the hose in a wrinkled position, thus causing it to leak thru the wrinkles.   Probably not, but maybe.

 

Dale in Indy

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When you get the hose off, look at the fitting, and make sure it is round. It is also possible that it isn't leaking from where you think it is. Look where that hose fitting solders in the radiator. Also look for a pinhole in the fitting dripping or seeping down on the hose joint.

 

There should be no need for sealer on something like that. Even on connections that have MAJOR pitting after cleaning it usually isn't necessary. Make sure it is round, and that there is not a shallow dent in the fitting that prevents the rubber from compressing.

 

Look at your clamp! If it is the common parts store "screw" type (I cant tell from the pics), those do not have a very round cross section, and that is why we never use them on fuel injection. They leak. Almost anything else is better. If you inspect it you may be able to massage it with a needle nose pliers to get it a bit rounder. The trouble is usually a couple of little triangular spots right where the screw holder transitions to the clamp band.

 

Does the hose stretch going over the fitting? It needs to. It doesn't need to stretch much, even the tiniest bit is ok, but it needs to stretch. If you are stuck reducing the hose diameter with the clamp to seal it to the fitting, you will probably be fighting it the rest of your life.

 

 

 

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15 hours ago, Gary W said:

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Bob gave me the thicker green tape, and this really cool, thin blue tape that is actually kind of elastic. 

I had to cover each chromed rib twice as the tape wasn't wide enough to cover the chrome in one sweep.

 

That looks like standard blue 3M trim tape.  For future reference, it comes in any number of widths.  You can usually find it on eBay if your local jobber or paint store doesn't have it.

 

Do those louvers come apart?  It looks to me like the ribs are held on with bent tabs.  Sure would make it a lot easier to clean and paint if they were apart, but I'd be scared to death of breaking off a bunch of those tabs. :D

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Yes the louver sections come apart. But.... just as you said I was scared to death to break them off! It was quite touchy cutting the rivets off to remove the louver sections. A lot of detail work to get into all the tight corners.

Larry

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Mine came apart pretty easily and I didnt break anything.  Sure made the painting easy.  Also, my ribs (38) were stainless and I just polished them. It was easy with things apart.

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If it was not for grand pa I would not be in to old cars for sure he gave me my 1929 when i was 13 birthday and my parents were man I remember now I know why It's because he did not know how long he would be around 

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Gary,

In your post #951 above, you show a picture of Rustoleum  "paint and primer" silver as your color for the "vents".

And you ask if it will take the heat ? Mine has for about 8K miles.

I did mine about 4 years ago almost the same way (masking the bars).

I put on 2 light coats of silver with 5 days in between, then a coat of clear Rustoleum enamel about 6 days later.

Came out looking like "epoxy". very thick and very deep.

 

I used polyurethane clear on my valve cover and now 4 years later it is showing "crackles" on top, and needs to be redone.

Won't be using urethane as a top coat again.

 

Just an FYI,

 

Mike in Colorado

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Saturday December 30, 2017:  Hood Related Stuff installed onto the car

 

I stopped by the paint shop yesterday ( Friday ) after work and the hood is now painted "trim black" on the underside, and the top sides are in grey build up primer with the guide coat applied.  

It won't be more than a couple days now, so I have to get the car and the rest of the hood related stuff ready and installed.

 

 

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Driver's side.  Two coats of build up prime and the guide coat applied ready for final sanding.

 

 

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Passenger's side awaiting the same final sand, color and clear.

I have the stainless hood hinge and the two side moldings all polished up and ready for the install.

I'm applying the second coat of the aluminum color paint to the hood vents this week.

I have the hood handles back from the Chrome Shop so I think I'm ready to go as far as the parts that go ON the hood prior to installation.

 

So today, I got to the parts that need to be installed on to the body before the hood is installed:

 

 

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FIRST:  That nagging water leak.  I drained the block from the side drain only.  Then I removed the hose.   

 

 

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I measured the distance between the thermostat housing and the water inlet neck of the radiator upper tank.

There is 6" from edge to edge.  So, I'm thinking a 7" hose gives me 1/2" overlap to clamp to.

I had a feeling the hose was too long, and it was distorting over the housings preventing the clamps from sealing nice and tight.

 

 

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Here you can see where the hose distorted around the base of the thermostat housing, so I decided to trim it.

 

 

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The hose was 8" long, so I removed 1/2" from each side (trying to get rid of the distorted areas)

 

 

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Clean slice and back on to the car.  It fit much better without any pressure pushing up and down on it.  And it's holding water just fine now!

 

 

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Installed the Hood Side welting with machine screws and square nuts.

 

 

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When I got the car, it did not have any of this side welting installed, but I think it adds a nice finish and hopefully will let the hood seat properly.

In the background you can see the trimmed hose in position.  

 

 

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I used the same welting and the same machine screws on the cowl.  

 

 

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I put the first two in on the top, then giving the welt a little tug, I used a punch to open the holes and installed as I went.

I had to remove the interior kick panels to get the screws in.

 

 

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Next came the hood locking parts.  These are the parts I cleaned and painted last week.

 

 

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This is the passenger's side.  I left it loose for now because It'll need to be adjusted when the hood is set in position.

Does anyone use a paper gasket or rubber pad between this and the fender?  Or straight metal to metal?

 

 

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And finally, the upper, rear hood locking parts.  Again, left them loose for now.  And again, gasket here??

 

 

Gas Filler Tube Fender Grommet:

 

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I just wanted to share the difference in two parts.  The new one from Steele came in (On the Right)  It has a very nice shape and a mushroom flange at the bottom.

 

 

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It fit right in perfectly and makes a nice seal to the car.  I did not use any adhesive here at all.  Maybe down the road if necessary.

 

 

 

 

 

ONE QUICK "NON-BUICK" PROJECT TODAY:

 

I went over John's house this morning and installed a new wiring harness into a 1968 Mustang he is working on for a friend in town.  First of all, I'll NEVER complain of wiring the Buick!

The Buick has space to work!  These Mustangs are tight, unforgiving, and filled with tons of sharp, unfinished metal parts that cut you up like you can't believe!  What a tough job.

When I finished at John's house (3 hours), I bought the dash assembly home with me and restored it tonight.  

I know it's not Buick, but the before and after is nice.  I rewired the cluster, swapped all the gauge lenses and installed everything into a new dash cluster.

 

 

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Another couple of hours....  but a nice finish!

 

 

 

I truly hope you all had a very Merry Christmas and I wish you a HAPPY AND HEALTHY 2018!

Thanks to everyone following all through the year!

 

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Gary:

 I replaced the welting on the front edge since it was rotted along the bottom and torn from the rivets. I bought some at Hershey as I thought it was the same as the ribbed ones at the rear. What was there was a flat welting. I did not think that the bit of extra thickness would matter. The hood now does not fit as it did before. Bigger gap along the horizontal edge above the headlight and at the grill. Also the locking mechanism is tighter and more touchy to lock.

 The fender lock tab is metal to metal as is the one on the cowl. I do not think a gasket would hurt.

 While you are setting up the hood now is the time to think about some type of hood prop. The only fully accessible position is if one side if folded over the other. The rear edge hood pad is to rest on the exposed painted portion of the cowl. Not good for sheet metal or paint. In both cases the sheet metal parts are torqued and twisted. My car was beat up there on both sides when I bought it. I made 2 walnut sticks with opposing grooves on each end to raise up the hood several inches above the cowl. The grooves catch the radiator shroud / nose frame stay rods and the hood locking rod. It has the hood hang without much twisting. I have seen some very nicely made types and think the old Torque Tube Magazine had an article about them. Once a quick breeze flipped one side over and folded the side piece under the hood top panel. It took a bit of doing to get them unlocked.DSCF2344.thumb.JPG.1466099fd884d571c622d88b50639c16.JPG

Photo shows the original flat welting and rivets also the reverse S hood stay I made wrapped in some soft sheathing. Occasion for the photo was of the overheated engine compartment on our first long distance trip to South Bend in 2013. It did this 2 more times and then settled down for the rest of the 1,750 mile trip. Most of the trip temps were over 100 degrees.

Larry

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Thursday,    5a4ecd783a1cf_ScreenShot2018-01-04at7_54_19PM.png.6f4e543004b1331af85542b587fb40bb.png    2018:  

It's my Birthday!  55 Today.  

And we got HAMMERED with about 18" of snow and blizzard conditions!

 

 

 

Here's the latest Buick update:

 

 

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This Hood Prop was on the car when I bought it.  So I shined it all up, replaced the nuts and bolts, tightened it up and replaced the worn rubber ends with neoprene tube...

 

 

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And made sure it bent down lower than the hood.  I have to be sure it clears under there when the hood is installed.

 

Did the '37 have any sort of Factory hood support?  I saw another thread where the '39 prop was discussed.....  Any info on the '37?

 

 

 

PAINT SHOP UPDATE:

 

 

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The underside of the hood is painted in Trim Black.

 

 

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The top side is all finished with two coats of grey prime, then sanded with a guide coat.

 

 

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This was Tuesday morning (January 2, 2018) when I left the paint shop.

The hood was painted shortly after I left.  It now has to be wet sanded and buffed out but I couldn't get out today so I'll be picking the hood up early next week.

 

 

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What bumper goes in here?  I have the triangle shaped bumpers for the front lower corner, but there wasn't anything here so I'm curious what belongs.

 

 

Knowing I'll be picking up the hood next week, I got to work getting the car prepped.

 

I sprayed the final coat of the aluminum paint into the hood vents.

I attempted to paint the word "SPECIAL", but I think it was polished out too much and the letters are barely raised and I'll make a mess trying to paint it.

 

Then,  I removed the radio to get access to the rear hood retainer bolt.  I think it'll be much easier to install the hood with the radio out of the way.

While the radio was out, I installed a new light switch that Tom graciously sent me.  Much better and nothing is on when it should all be off!

I finished hooking up the vacuum line from the manifold to the wiper motor

And generally tightened up the cluster screws, the welting nuts, cowl vent screws...  just got things finalized under there.

 

 

 

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I measured the hood while I was at Bob's shop and when I got home I fabricated this stand to support the hood so I can pre-install all the hood goodies before lifting it onto the car.

 

 

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I cut this piece of foam board

 

 

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And tacked it to the wood skeleton

 

 

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And finally, wrapped it in four layers of this thick cloth to prevent any scratches under the hood while I work on the top side.

 

 

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I slid the rear hood retainer into the stainless hood hinge.

 

 

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I wanted to do a preliminary measurement.  With the rear bolt in the cowl mounting hole, I have about 1/4" opening up front.

Should I try to close this down a little prior to installing the hood, or is it easier to install the hood with a little "wiggle room" and bring the front nose into position while the hood is in place?

Any suggestions here would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Have a great night out there, and to all my friends in the North East... be careful!

Gary

 

Edited by Gary W (see edit history)
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Happy Birthday, Gary!  You are a gentleman and a scholar, and we are very fortunate to have you on this forum.  (And my totally ignorant and random opinion on your last question is that "wiggle room" is a good thing and you should wait until you have the hood in place to make the adjustment).

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Gary,

 

There was no hood prop hardware on 1937 Buicks. From memory, there is a rubber bumper that goes on the bottom rear corners of the hood sides that fits in those holes although I don't remember exactly how it is shaped without looking at the car and don't want to go through the snow to the garage for a photo tonight. The theory of operation is that the rubber sits on the cowl and keeps the hood from sliding down. It is not really something you want to rely on. Your aftermarket hood prop is a better idea. It will protect the paint on the cowl. 

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Gary

 

Happy birthday to you.  Oh to be 55 again.  With none of the arthritic joints or problematic back.  Hope that you don't have that fellow,  "Arthur Itis" visit you too soon.

 

Out here in California, we all are shuddering with the news of the severe cold and the icy roads.  Time to stay indoors and drink hot toddies !   I agree with Neil.  Leave the gap in the top trim piece till you get the hood in place.  Then you can adjust all segments for the alignment that the 4 piece hoods were so famous for.  Back in the day, the mechanics were fluent with these type of hoods.  On my Plymouth, the previous owner cut off one of the rear bolts that holds the rear clip so every time that I open the hood, it slips out.  I will attack that issue this weekend.  I just don't open the hood that often as the car runs great.  I have a friend hold the hood while I carefully open it to check the vitals then I close it back.  A pain in the keester.  I want that issue fixed pronto.  

 

It is almost an art form in opening these hoods.  Practice makes perfect (hopefully)  In your case, I would not want to practice on a freshly painted hood !  On my cars (the 36 Pontiac and the 36 Plymouth) if you don't take precautions, you will hit the bullet headlights, either scratching them or denting them.  My question to the older guys out there;  When the garage mechanic serviced these cars, did they do anything special when they opened the hoods?  Like laying a towel down on the cowl or did they just rely on the rubber corners of the hood? 

 

If any of the Buick members have a factory service manual, was there any mention of procedure regarding this issue?  Or were they just all experienced with the folding hoods?  Woe to the shop mechanic who had the hood slip and scratch or dent the headlight or cowl.  

 

Gary, when you get your hood installed, that may be the most tedious task that you encounter.  As careful as you are, I am sure it will go smooth sailing for you.  But I am sure that you are concerned with this step.  Good luck in your hood installation.  Hope that it goes without a hitch.

 

Randy                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  

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Hi Gary,

 

Happy Birthday to you from Australia

 

Stay safe from the weather

 

Best wishes

 

Paul

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Gary,

 

Does Steel Rubber Products have the rubber pad/piece that goes into the holes there?  You have the other parts from them.  Did they offer or show another item for that end of the hood?

Randy                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      

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Gary: Hope you had a great birthday! Thanks for all your posts. I'm working on a 37 Model 40C. 

 

Dave Rex

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3 hours ago, Gary W said:

 

It's my Birthday!  55 Today.  

And we got HAMMERED...

 

 

I got that far and thought, "Good for you." ;)

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Gary, happy belated birthday! Thank you for the check for the side pans. Now there is no doubt as to our speculation as to your profession.

The pads you seek are available through "BOBs" They are vulcanized to a steel plate and are to be bent to match the radius of the hood.

Larry

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 Gary, Happy Birthday, belatedly as well, from me as well! I love the look of your work on the car, it certainly will be a great looking car when its' done.

Keith

 

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Gary.

 

I dont know if the '37's have it, but on my '38's there is a little angled bracket under the hood center strip that touches the end of the hood hinge angle that keeps the hood from moving back and forth and hitting the cowel and scratching it.

DSCN3551.JPG

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