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About carbdoc

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  1. I finally found the pages I needed --- here they are! After much trial and error, I searched "1934 stromberg downdraft carburetor jet specifications" on the restorecarsclassifieds site and that is what I got. I suppose that similar results could be obtained searching other years/brands of carburetors as needed. Thanks to everyone for their responses! Jeff Dreibus The Old Carb Doctor
  2. Thanks, Viv. What I am working on is a Stromberg EE-22 10-6 for 1934 Packard Super 8. It is sizes of all jets and power valve drilling in which I am most interested. Jeff
  3. The Old Carb Doctor needs some help! I hope everyone is able to see the document below; sorry that the print is so tiny. It is Stromberg Downdraft Carburetor Jet Specifications page #C-158 from some 1937 manual whose coverage goes back to 1931, but I do not know who published the manual (Stromberg itself, perhaps?). This page was accessed through, but they don't seem to have all of the other pages and, as it happens, the info I currently need should be on page C-159! I need to know who published the manual and what they called it (perhaps it covered more than just carburetors?) so that I can search for one and buy it. Does anyone recognize this format? Jeff Dreibus The Old Carb Doctor
  4. Your are probably right, Bloo, but I have to laugh at the idea of "higher-performance compounds" used in modern tires. Today we are lucky to get six years out of new tires as opposed to the decade-plus that the older tires would usually hang in there. Jeff
  5. PFitz, Thanks. It may indeed have been hot at the bottom of the bowl but the the primary bores were definitely cool since it was percolating out of the bowl and condensing in the throttle bores. This was obvious because rivulets of gasoline were dripping out from around the primary shaft. I remember carburetor icing. It used to happen to me when I was a young man living in northern Virginia; I would have to get out and drive my '65 Plymouth Satellite (273 2-bbl) to work on cold winter mornings and the carburetor would start giving me problems. When I checked, it would look like a ball of ice! I never did figure out a solution beyond letting it sit and melt; congrats on solving yours. Jeff Dreibus
  6. Edinmass, Thanks. You may be correct about the 15 percent ethanol, although I suspect that it was a mistake on the part of the gasoline hauler since Quality Plus advertises nothing above 10 percent ethanol content. I would feel like a total hypocrite if I changed the car over to F.I.; I actually restore carburetors for a living and there has to be some way to overcome this problem. I'm going to install a 1/4" phenolic spacer beneath the Oldsmobile's carb and see if that helps . . . although I doubt that I will notice the difference so long as I don't accidentally get another tankful of ethanol-laced gasoline. What you have noted may explain a trend I have been seeing lately in my work: I am getting fewer downdraft carburetors as time goes by. The majority of my workload is now comprised of updraft carburetors from earlier cars. With a few exceptions, they are mounted low on the side of the engine and are exposed to far less heat unless an exhaust component runs directly beneath them --- plus there is no practical way to replace them with F.I. unless you replace the entire engine itself (sadly all too common today). Jeff Dreibus
  7. I have worked in fuel systems for 30 years, but this is the first time I have ever seen anything like this:This morning (which was cool so the A/C was not in use) we had driven my wife's 1976 Oldsmobile Cutlass Salon with 350 4-bbl about 15 miles at moderate speeds when it began stalling at idle, requiring me to re-start it with the gas pedal to the floor. When we could safely pull off the road, I opened the hood, removed the air cleaner . . . and was greeted by a QuadraJet carburetor that was boiling to beat the band but which was barely warm to the touch! I had never seen anything like it. I'd call it "heat soak" --- except that there was very little heat involved!We use only 93 octane ethanol-free gas in that car (from a local chain here in western NC called Quality Plus Gashouse) and we have never had a problem with it in any vehicle. My only surmise is that either I pushed to wrong button on the gas pump or somebody put gasohol into in the wrong underground tank at the station. Still, even though gasohol boils at a lower temp than "pure" gas, this was ridiculous --- I could very comfortably "hug" the carburetor with both hands for as long as I wished!We proceeded to the nearest Quality Plus and filled the less-than-1/4-full tank with 15 gallons of 93 octane E-free . . . and before too long all was back to normal. What the heck is going on? Has anyone else had an experience such as this? Or am I the only "lucky" one?Jeff Dreibus Nebo, NC
  8. Thanks to everyone for the advice! I soldered a wire to the lamp socket and a loop terminal to the other end of the wire, then reinstalled the assembly with the one of the retainer screws (which screws into a body ground) though the loop terminal. I used a liberal amount of dielectric grease at all connection points . . . and now my Chrysler's park/turn lamp works great!
  9. Thanks, Frank; this is on an HPOF car . . . so they don't pay quite as much attention. Besides, I'm very resourceful about making "stealth modifications" . . . 😉
  10. Much appreciated, Matthew and Joe! A local friend suggested this same fix to me after I posted this . . . strange how we can often be oblivious to the obvious. And by the way, Joe: my first car was a '62 Olds 98, black and silver with silver interior, that I bought from a neighbor for $100 --- the proverbial "$100 Car"! Great memories . . . Jeff
  11. And now for the stupid question of the day: Every year or so, I have to remove the front parking/turn signal lenses from my 1970 Chrysler 300 and use a center punch to stake around each bulb socket flange where it was peined over the lamp housing. This is because it loses all ground between said steel socket and pot-metal housing. I know that there must be a simple way to repair this problem permanently but, even though I'm a pretty resourceful guy, the solution has evaded me. Any suggestions . . ?
  12. I once had this problem with a '63 Buick 401; it turned out to be a worn shaft key in the harmonic balancer's keyway. Remove the bolt and washer from the balancer and try to "rock" it back and forth on the shaft by hand; you'll know pretty quick if that's the problem. And when you reinstall the bolt and washer, be sure to torque it to spec (or just as tight as you can get it!).
  13. Tinindian, The problem isn't making the float out of cork; the problem is keeping the needle's counterweights from wearing out their contact surface on top of the float. PFitz, Thanks for the link! I have traded with RSC for years but I have never seen that page with those items on it. I'm sure that I will be able to use some of them in the future, but I am leery about unsealed Nitrophyl (after it is shaped) and I don't know what to use as a sealant. Moreover, see above concern about abrasion by float counterweights. Jeff
  14. Is anyone reproducing the drum-shaped floats with a center hole for the Zenith 04 updraft carburetor? Here are the specs: 1-13/16" diameter 1-3/8" high 3/16" center bore 7/32" relief "dish" in each end Thanks to any who might know. Jeff Dreibus