carbdoc

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  1. PFitz, Thanks. It may indeed have been hot at the bottom of the bowl but the the primary bores were definitely cool since it was percolating out of the bowl and condensing in the throttle bores. This was obvious because rivulets of gasoline were dripping out from around the primary shaft. I remember carburetor icing. It used to happen to me when I was a young man living in northern Virginia; I would have to get out and drive my '65 Plymouth Satellite (273 2-bbl) to work on cold winter mornings and the carburetor would start giving me problems. When I checked, it would look like a ball of ice! I never did figure out a solution beyond letting it sit and melt; congrats on solving yours. Jeff Dreibus
  2. Edinmass, Thanks. You may be correct about the 15 percent ethanol, although I suspect that it was a mistake on the part of the gasoline hauler since Quality Plus advertises nothing above 10 percent ethanol content. I would feel like a total hypocrite if I changed the car over to F.I.; I actually restore carburetors for a living and there has to be some way to overcome this problem. I'm going to install a 1/4" phenolic spacer beneath the Oldsmobile's carb and see if that helps . . . although I doubt that I will notice the difference so long as I don't accidentally get another tankful of ethanol-laced gasoline. What you have noted may explain a trend I have been seeing lately in my work: I am getting fewer downdraft carburetors as time goes by. The majority of my workload is now comprised of updraft carburetors from earlier cars. With a few exceptions, they are mounted low on the side of the engine and are exposed to far less heat unless an exhaust component runs directly beneath them --- plus there is no practical way to replace them with F.I. unless you replace the entire engine itself (sadly all too common today). Jeff Dreibus
  3. I have worked in fuel systems for 30 years, but this is the first time I have ever seen anything like this:This morning (which was cool so the A/C was not in use) we had driven my wife's 1976 Oldsmobile Cutlass Salon with 350 4-bbl about 15 miles at moderate speeds when it began stalling at idle, requiring me to re-start it with the gas pedal to the floor. When we could safely pull off the road, I opened the hood, removed the air cleaner . . . and was greeted by a QuadraJet carburetor that was boiling to beat the band but which was barely warm to the touch! I had never seen anything like it. I'd call it "heat soak" --- except that there was very little heat involved!We use only 93 octane ethanol-free gas in that car (from a local chain here in western NC called Quality Plus Gashouse) and we have never had a problem with it in any vehicle. My only surmise is that either I pushed to wrong button on the gas pump or somebody put gasohol into in the wrong underground tank at the station. Still, even though gasohol boils at a lower temp than "pure" gas, this was ridiculous --- I could very comfortably "hug" the carburetor with both hands for as long as I wished!We proceeded to the nearest Quality Plus and filled the less-than-1/4-full tank with 15 gallons of 93 octane E-free . . . and before too long all was back to normal. What the heck is going on? Has anyone else had an experience such as this? Or am I the only "lucky" one?Jeff Dreibus Nebo, NC
  4. Thanks to everyone for the advice! I soldered a wire to the lamp socket and a loop terminal to the other end of the wire, then reinstalled the assembly with the one of the retainer screws (which screws into a body ground) though the loop terminal. I used a liberal amount of dielectric grease at all connection points . . . and now my Chrysler's park/turn lamp works great!
  5. Thanks, Frank; this is on an HPOF car . . . so they don't pay quite as much attention. Besides, I'm very resourceful about making "stealth modifications" . . . 😉
  6. Much appreciated, Matthew and Joe! A local friend suggested this same fix to me after I posted this . . . strange how we can often be oblivious to the obvious. And by the way, Joe: my first car was a '62 Olds 98, black and silver with silver interior, that I bought from a neighbor for $100 --- the proverbial "$100 Car"! Great memories . . . Jeff
  7. And now for the stupid question of the day: Every year or so, I have to remove the front parking/turn signal lenses from my 1970 Chrysler 300 and use a center punch to stake around each bulb socket flange where it was peined over the lamp housing. This is because it loses all ground between said steel socket and pot-metal housing. I know that there must be a simple way to repair this problem permanently but, even though I'm a pretty resourceful guy, the solution has evaded me. Any suggestions . . ?
  8. I once had this problem with a '63 Buick 401; it turned out to be a worn shaft key in the harmonic balancer's keyway. Remove the bolt and washer from the balancer and try to "rock" it back and forth on the shaft by hand; you'll know pretty quick if that's the problem. And when you reinstall the bolt and washer, be sure to torque it to spec (or just as tight as you can get it!).
  9. Tinindian, The problem isn't making the float out of cork; the problem is keeping the needle's counterweights from wearing out their contact surface on top of the float. PFitz, Thanks for the link! I have traded with RSC for years but I have never seen that page with those items on it. I'm sure that I will be able to use some of them in the future, but I am leery about unsealed Nitrophyl (after it is shaped) and I don't know what to use as a sealant. Moreover, see above concern about abrasion by float counterweights. Jeff
  10. Is anyone reproducing the drum-shaped floats with a center hole for the Zenith 04 updraft carburetor? Here are the specs: 1-13/16" diameter 1-3/8" high 3/16" center bore 7/32" relief "dish" in each end Thanks to any who might know. Jeff Dreibus
  11. I need specifications for the 1934 Lincoln KA/KB Stromberg EE-22 carburetor. The original Stromberg spec/parts page would really help a lot. Failing that, I need specs for all of the jets: main discharge, low-speed (idle), idle bleed and power valve orifice sizes. Original part Stromberg part number (as near as I can tell) is 17762, though 18282 would probably work as well. Can anyone help?
  12. Another neat little trick that DOT 5 performs is that it eats hydraulically-actuated brake light switches. I had DOT 5 in a '63 Buick back in the early '90s; I went through 3 switches in the course of about 18 months. I have since read that others have experienced the same problem in other vehicles --- not Mopars, of course, because most of them had purely mechanical switches located down by the brake pedal arm. Jeff
  13. Jack, I had two or three more masters and two more boosters on this thing since the problem raised its ugly head; I even tried rebuilding the original master myself (right down to and including the valving) --- no change whatsoever. My problem with DOT 5 is its "elasticity"; in most of the cars I used it in in the late 80s - 90s, I found that brakes which had once worked perfectly with DOT 3 were quite spongy with DOT 5. Yes, I changed over the entire system's components when doing this and rinsed-out the brake lines thoroughly with Brakleen if I was not replacing them. Yes, I was careful to let the DOT 5 bottle settle for several days before using it and to not agitate it during pouring. I am now inherently suspicious of of any brake fluid which must be handled like nitroglycerin! I will try to look at the Chrysler soon, but I work a lot (working today, just taking a break) and that brake troubleshooting job will require a certain time commitment. Jeff
  14. hchris, You may be right, but why does it seem to affect all four brakes? I can't get any of them to lock-up in a hard stop (which I deliberately tried to do recently). Jeff