carbdoc

Does anyone have a Chrysler P/N 4094149 brake booster, functioning or rebuildable, for my 1978 Dodge D-150 pickup? Rebuilt boosters are currently on backorder everywhere, and I need to get this truck fully operational ASAP. I want to keep the faulty old booster on there until I get an operable one because the truck is marginally drivable at lower speeds with the old one in place, hence I don't want to send it out for rebuilding just now. Jeff

Jack, please look at the post just prior to my previous comment (I think). The character portrayed there is Detective Monk, armed with disinfectant bottle and clean white towels, as played by Tony Shaloub. He was a germophobe detective with OCD, but he could definitely solve a crime. "Monk" has been off the air (do they still call it that?) for years now. I have been compared to Monk for wiping my eyes only with clean shop rags.😁 Jeff

Thanks, Jack. I can assure you that I NEVER wipe my eyes with shop rags, new OR used. If that solidifies my new characterization as "Monk", then so be it. 😆 I worked in some places that used uniform and shop rag supply services when I was young, and I would never use them for my own business knowing and seeing how they "operate". Guess I'll just keep looking for deals on the type of rags I find work best to clean-up old carburetor parts. Jeff

🤣

Thanks for all of the replies. Cotton T-shirts do a fine job for polishing, but they're not so great for my daily tasks. I need the "traditional" white shop rags, thinly-bound along the edges, for the type of work that I do (restoring ancient carburetors). The bound edge allows me to "catch" it over the end of a tiny screwdriver without tearing, douse it with carb cleaner and clean dirt out of very small bores and passages. The "face" of the rag is (obviously) used as well, but it is ineffective if it is woven thinly like cheesecloth. And why do I specify "white" cloth? Because the dye in those red rags is rarely colorfast, and does it ever make a mess of my work and my hands! 😝 Jeff

Thanks!

Good suggestion!Jeff

Thanks! Do they have bound edges? I can't tell from the photo. Jeff

Thanks to all for your suggestions! What I failed to initially mention is that I need these rags to not only be more solid than cheesecloth, but that I also need them to have a very narrow bound edge. That way, I can "catch" a small instrument in the bound edge and get into small passages and throttle shaft bores and clean, clean, clean with some Berryman's B-12 carb cleaner. Stupid me: I have been using that design for so many decades that I just figured that all "shop rags" met this description! Jeff

Thanks!

Where do I buy good-quality white shop towels (rags)? All of the white shop towels available in bundles now seem to be made from something akin to cheesecloth; you can look straight through the skimpy things! There is little absorbency/longevity --- the quality has decreased dramatically in the past couple of years, no matter from what vendor I buy them. And the reason that I specify "white" is because I don't want red-pink stains in my work from non-colorfast red rags; I suppose that those are made of "cheesecloth" now as well . . . Carbdoc Jeff

I need a brake booster for my 1978 Dodge D-150, Chrysler P/N 4094149. Here is what it looks like, and yes, it must have four studs for mounting the master cylinder to it. I am willing to buy a used one if it is fully functional so that I can keep my truck on the road while I get the original rebuilt.

Thanks, Bloo; I'll check it out.

It's certainly possible, but 😨.

I have a 1978 Dodge D-150 with a 400 c.i.d. engine. Upon accelerating (even in park/neutral), it backfires through the 2-bbl Carter carburetor. Naturally, I have been through the carburetor and it does not appear to be malfunctioning. It shoots two generous streams of non-ethanol gasoline from the accelerator pump jets upon acceleration. The vacuum advance is working as it should and is attached to spark-timed vacuum as original, not manifold vacuum. The engine is timed to the mark. I just did a quick check using a breaker bar and a 1-1/4" socket on the crank. I am guesstimating that there is 5-6 degrees of lash in the timing chain/gears. Would this really be enough to cause that big a problem? I seem to recall having run Mopar big blocks without an issue, even though they had a more lash than that. Suggestions? Observations? Jeff