carbdoc

WFR.RR, Thanks for the tips. EdInMass had contacted me and explained about the valve (can I call it a "power valve?") which is operated by the black lever&rod system. He told me that the valve often gets clogged with debris, and this causes lean running. Sure enough, there was lots of dirt and rust clogging it when I removed it. I cleaned it up, re-installed it, did a little cleaning to the inner castings "while I was in there", dressed and re-set the needle tip, tested and polished the float and counterweights, did a few other sundry things o make it "tight" and of course tested it wet. It has probably arrived "home" by now. Jeff Dreibus

So, Ed, since the carburetor is now off the car and on my bench, what is the best procedure for me to follow in the endeavor of seeing that the engine gets sufficient fuel delivered to it? That is the customer's complaint; I just want to make him happy. At this point, the likelihood of earning a profit is slim-to-none. Jeff

Thanks, alwsancle

Thanks, alsancle; it has been sent to me by a third party, not by the owner. Jeff

I am trying to troubleshoot a carburetor for a 1929 Rolls Royce. The problem is that it is not getting sufficient fuel to the engine. I have never seen a carburetor like this (see photos), and I am a bit intimidated. I am not even certain who made this carburetor; it bears no identification. Does anyone have a carburetor service manual discussing a carburetor such as that pictured?

Thanks much!

I still desperately need a Chrysler #4094149 power brake booster to get my 1978 Dodge D-150 back on the road. It doesn't have to be functional; I will be glad to purchase rebuildable core. It looks like this:

Does anyone have a Chrysler P/N 4094149 brake booster, functioning or rebuildable, for my 1978 Dodge D-150 pickup? Rebuilt boosters are currently on backorder everywhere, and I need to get this truck fully operational ASAP. I want to keep the faulty old booster on there until I get an operable one because the truck is marginally drivable at lower speeds with the old one in place, hence I don't want to send it out for rebuilding just now. Jeff

Jack, please look at the post just prior to my previous comment (I think). The character portrayed there is Detective Monk, armed with disinfectant bottle and clean white towels, as played by Tony Shaloub. He was a germophobe detective with OCD, but he could definitely solve a crime. "Monk" has been off the air (do they still call it that?) for years now. I have been compared to Monk for wiping my eyes only with clean shop rags.😁 Jeff

Thanks, Jack. I can assure you that I NEVER wipe my eyes with shop rags, new OR used. If that solidifies my new characterization as "Monk", then so be it. 😆 I worked in some places that used uniform and shop rag supply services when I was young, and I would never use them for my own business knowing and seeing how they "operate". Guess I'll just keep looking for deals on the type of rags I find work best to clean-up old carburetor parts. Jeff

🤣

Thanks for all of the replies. Cotton T-shirts do a fine job for polishing, but they're not so great for my daily tasks. I need the "traditional" white shop rags, thinly-bound along the edges, for the type of work that I do (restoring ancient carburetors). The bound edge allows me to "catch" it over the end of a tiny screwdriver without tearing, douse it with carb cleaner and clean dirt out of very small bores and passages. The "face" of the rag is (obviously) used as well, but it is ineffective if it is woven thinly like cheesecloth. And why do I specify "white" cloth? Because the dye in those red rags is rarely colorfast, and does it ever make a mess of my work and my hands! 😝 Jeff

Thanks!

Good suggestion!Jeff

Thanks! Do they have bound edges? I can't tell from the photo. Jeff