1937McBuick

Its other people's business how they spend THEIR money. Let the guy writing the check worry about "value". Opinions are like a-holes.... everyone has one.

The pieces with rubber vulcanized to them are bigger than I imagined. (I'm not trying to justify their cost) But in reality they would be comparable to the plain steel brackets that mount the boards to the brackets when you're not relying on the running boards to serve as antennas.

Me thinks Bloo is a good guy to have in your corner. Lots of very helpful people out there. Glad these forums exist to bring people together.

Without ever seeing them actually on the car, it looks to me like the back side of the piece with three holes has a square recess in the back for that square red piece to fit into then the round part of the red piece with the threated stud protrudes out to bolt onto the running board mounting bracket. I'm assuming it's this point that provides the insulation from the rest of the car? Where does the antenna wire(s) attach?

The picture is from Steele's site. I posted it so people wouldn't have to search it themselves. 50-0305-21.... 8 pieces @ about $36 each 50-0280-21..... 4 pair @ about $101 per pair ....has him near $700 without taxes and shipping and hardware and incidentals. I don't know if there's other pieces involved. Its adding up!

How about talking to a tire vulcanzing service company and ask if they have a compound that would be suitable for you to use.

Good eye Matt, ...noticing the bumpers were mounted upside down.

If those in the picture I posted are indeed them, how many pair are needed? My Ghetto(40) Series Coupe never came with a radio so the running boards were bolted metal to metal(board on mounting bracket and mounting bracket to frame). Steele says those antenna mount insulators are to be used in conjunction with their running board antenna mounting pad. I can see how this can very quickly escalate to very expensive. You've got nothing to lose by trying yourself. Best of luck.

Are yours different than the ones in the picture I attached? $1000 for running board insulators is expensive no matter what they are. Now I understand why your willing to attempt fixing them yourself.

With all due respect, expensive is paying 1.35X the USD price with shipping, customs and duty fees and taxes on top of all of that importing into Canada. I know, that's my problem. But it seems any product that is rubber vulcanized to metal is expensive. Sometimes it's easier to just pay the price(ransom). Best of luck. I realize that didn't offer much help.

The car is a bit mysterious looking to me. It's a plain back car(no hump trunk). Canadian production numbers and details shows no plain back cars "made in Canada". But shows imports of Fisher Body code 4416, which I don't know what that is, and could have been reworked for export out of Canada. The front fender lights aren't 1937 40 Series. The hubcaps aren't the higher dome McLaughlins with three grooves around the outer edge. Its hard to tell but the side body molding may not be 37 either. And the high "boxy" roof.... Rear doors latching on the B pillar. Didn't 37 phaeton(open "sedans") use 36 bodies? Is that what this is? A 36 phaeton body that was made into a closed car? A 37 front clip. Maybe even a USA 36 chassis because the hubcaps from 1937 Canadian to US don't cross fit. Seems very "custom" to me. What is it?

Car genealogy can be tough. Just think how many owners that car could of had in it's 86 year life. I tried tracing ownership of my car, I never got any further than the person I bought it from. He knew the area, down which particular road, he pulled it home from. So I got a municipal map and started cold calling people that lived in the area. People die and people move away... real estate changes hands. I thought of contacting our provinces only vehicle registration and insurance (government) agency but as someone else said.... the new privacy laws and purging of data... even the info on the most recent registered owner is likely unattainable or lost to time. My car hasn't been registered for probably 40-50 years. It has also never been on any club roster until I acquired it, before then it was basically "forgotten about" by the people who owned it previously, or the previous owner's memory of the car died with them. That's my car's story, some other's might have more traceable car genealogy. Best of luck.

Who is the Auction House really providing the service to? The Seller or the Buyer? Buyers can't buy something that isn't for sale. Maybe the person making the money should pay the biggest part of the commission. Other than taxes, when you buy something retail extra fees aren't added to the price, margins(aka commissions) are already included. I find Buyer's fees punative and if the Buyer adjusts his buy price lower to accommodate the added fees, in essence the Seller is receiving less. At least fees are capped on higher value items in most cases. If the Auction House wants to recoup credit card payment transaction fees, fine. I wouldn't expect the Auction House to pack and handle an item that will be shipped for free. I don't know what is "fair", all I know is I detest Buyer's fees.

Terry. Thanks for letting everyone know how this evolved. Sounds like no engine damage occurred?!. Best of luck.

Selling these 36 Olds bumper guards, located in Sask. Canada. $40 for the pair, plus shipping.

Please explain. Thanks in advance.

I bought a set of Nicholson's about 3 months ago from Acklands Grainger. Remember that is Canadian dollars. I couldn't believe how they cut compared to our decades old abused files. Someone with more welding and metal experience than I'll ever get or have told me not to apply any pressure on the back stroke because it has a tendency to flatten the cutting edge of the teeth. I obviously never knew how to properly use a metal file. Maybe they can be compared to a hand saw? What about cleaning them? Those flat bastards sure remove alot of material quickly and the milling file less so but leaves a better finish. They are stored in their own tool box drawer laying in single "file"🙄

I think the key to this topic is emotions , not opinions on styling. I told the shop foreman where my car "was" I didn't want to "hate the car" b(u)y the time it was done! It's at home now, unfinished, waiting the to get on the track to finish the final laps until it crosses the finish line. Let me make it clear, the car still holds a very important parking space in my heart, but the journey hasn't always been pleasant trying to get it across the finish line. Did anyone have a "divorce" car that they would have liked to put a brick on the gas pedal and point it towards a deep canyon? Might be a bit of emotion in that! I think most special interest autos bring more positive emotions than negative ones. But I guess, like a battery..... both exist.

We have an AC Delco cabinet here. It has two doors and is about 3.5 feet tall, 2.5 feet wide and 1.5 feet deep. Those measurements are guestimates. No picture at the moment because it's at my parent's place. It's got to be decades old, but how many I don't know.

Thanks for reporting back to us. Best of luck.

Acauto, I used clear Gorilla Epoxy to glue together the one broke in half. I practiced on a jar I broke first. I masked the broke halves with green painters tape. Using a real sharp razor blade trim the tape right up to the broken edge of both pieces. Prepare/mix the two part epoxy. I used a tooth pick to put a thin layer on the broken edges. Hold it together until it sets. I let it cure for over a day before I removed the tape and "gently and carefully" trimmed off the epoxy that squished out of the two halves. The epoxy is not invincible. You can seperate the two pieces with enough force. Get a feeling for its durability from the practice pieces from the broken jar. Another thing I did after it was cured was carefully apply a small bead of epoxy on the top and bottom of the joint. I kind of regret that last step because the repair is more visible than before but I was hoping to strengthen the repair. I can't imagine how hard it would be to find a "good" one for your Zephyr. The license lenses for the 37 Buicks are basically/almost impossible to find. They were only on the coupe style bodies. Best of luck finding one or repairing yours.

This emblem came up on an online sale at a "local" auction house. I let someone know who had a 37 Zephyr. He didn't need it but set a maximum bid and I monitored the sale for him and me. It sold for more than he was willing to pay for something he didn't need or wanted to spend to buy and barter with. I respect his choice. Maybe I should have stepped in and bought it. My hope/goal was to get it in the hands of someone who needed it, not a grill/hood badge and hood ornament collector. I have no idea who bought it. I realize it needs restoration but I think it is a good candidate to start with. It sold for $77 Canadian dollars buyer's fee included(about $57 USD). Internet search results for these things yeild very very few results... both "for sale" or "sold". At the price paid I do believe the buyer knew what they were buying, at least it never sold for $5 or $10,... I wouldn't have let that happen, my(our) last bid was $37.50 and other bidders took it past my acquaintances maximum bid before I was able to place that bid for him. What's it worth?

Wow quite similar to my Buick's. I have another for my Buick that is broken in half like in the opening post. The one in my pictures has a big chip out of the corner. The one for the 37K looks rounder, mine is kind of squared off, straighter sides.

Condolences. Bob was a nice guy to talk to. What ever became of his grill badge collection. I would think he had afew unique hood ornaments saved too. I can't remember exactly the last time we spoke but it wasn't real long ago. I thought he may have had some information or connections to family of the people involved if they're still around. I don't want to derail your thread, so I'll leave it at that.

Fargoguy, have you talked to Bob Jones? He was located not far south of Moose Jaw.