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Everything posted by 1937McBuick

  1. Did you see this? Well I put the link in the wrong thread... Lol, I'm schtoopit.
  2. Everett Potter at BuickND.com might know where one is, There's a guy in Prince Albert, Sask., Canada too, who might know where to get one or have one. Belongs to the McLaughlin Buick Club of Canada. Place an ad in the 36-38 Buick Club.
  3. Dave Tacheny in Minnesota. Good guy. He shipped me two NOS rear fenders for a 37 40 series. Shipped them to a town just across the border and I picked them up but that was before the borders closed.
  4. Yes, that pin is either sticking out or waaaaay too long. What are the chances that the floor plate is not for the car? But that still wouldn't account for the steering column not being centered between the pedals.
  5. Do the pedals and linkage to the clutch and master cylinder all line up properly? What's stopping those pedals from drifting back and forth on the pedal pivot pin/shaft? Looks like something might be missing. If I can get under mine I will take a picture and post it. The unfinished car is currently being stored in an enclosed car trailer... space is limited to get a good look. From Gary's picture I can see the master cylinder mounting bracket limits side movement of the pedals on the pin. The pin must be partially pulled out.
  6. E-116-YH. That will be an intense restoration. Given how rare it is it's probably worth going the extra mile. The Dodge Brothers insignia on the bolt heads is really cool. Some hardware is beyond use so having a collection of used stuff would help. I will have to be satisfied with a mix of old and new. The guy who put the dash in my car used Philips headed screws because he "hated slotted head screws", even though I supplied the originals. I still have them. There is no way I will have a high point car. Started out with a non-matching number(engine) car. All I want is a darn good original. I have the type of car that would have made a nice chopped street rod but mine is one of the few McLaughlin Buicks left out of 311(Canadian opera coupe). I have the things that set it apart from it's American sibling.... horn button, grill badge, hubcaps, and firewall plate. So few things that make it different. I wish it was done, beautiful car, in my humble opinion.
  7. A picture is worth a thousand words... Thanks again.
  8. Thanks you guys. I looked on "Chev's of the 40's" and "The Filling Station" websites. Talked to some one at each place but it seems no one wants to go out on a limb and say they cross for sure. The parts books numbers are handy but deciphering the terminology might be tough. I have to study it better when I have a bit more time.
  9. The pieces I'm inquiring about are the door dovetail(wedge plate) Door jamb wedge spring set. Door striker plate. And miscellaneous hardware. Weren't both makes Fisher body cars? These aren't "trim items" but more of a mechanical item so I suspect they might be the same. Can anyone verify if these items interchange on the 37's?
  10. I seriously doubt hardware on old cars was treated to prevent corrosion. Or was it?
  11. How far do people take this figurative phrase? Do you replace as much hardware as possible with new? Old cars have unique styles hardware, like deeper headed hex bolts and other oddities. Some bolts twist off. I'm sure everyone hates slotted head screws and machine bolts. Blasting and painting hardware is a pain in the arse. But I found a real good way to do it in a medium blast cabinet, use a strong speaker magnet to kind of hold the hardware. You will have to move it around to get all the sides but it's better than dropping them and having them fall through the grate and into the medium and fish through it to find them. I couldn't salvage all the hardware, some was beyond use. Some stuff in the interior that needs to be presentable can be bought new, like window garnish moulding screws. How anal are you guys in using original or correct reproduction hardware? I think the older the vehicle the harder it is to do.
  12. Pete "gave" me some McLaughlin Buick hubcaps. All I had to do is pay shipping. Very grateful. Thanks again Pete.
  13. This is a tough topic. Opinions are based on people's experience. The same shop can have both positive and negative feedback, as can a customer's "reputation". Where people are involved things can get very dynamic. There needs to be an understanding, a level of accountability, each side has a responsibility. Remember what I said about "ransom", when the project goes well over the quote and still incomplete. Customers shouldn't hate their project by the time it's finished. And the project shouldn't be an open ended blank check. And yes, some people aren't business managers and need a boss. I have no respect for non-payers, but the non-payer is likely unhappy with the cost or quality of the work. Likely both justified and unjustified circumstances. If a customer wants an impeccable restoration, be prepared to ante up big time.
  14. Let's throw in these variables and the possible combinations that will affect the price and quality of the work. Excellent job Average job Poor Job Works quick Works slow Expensive price Reasonable price Cheap price Lots of possibilities....
  15. I wonder if any shops practice discretionary pricing based on the estimated finished value of the vehicle being worked on and the type of vehicles the owner of the project drives up in when they visit the shop. Lol. Image and appearance is everything but doesn't always tell the whole story.
  16. What a beautiful car. I "should" be driving my lowly 37 40 series coupe already, but.......
  17. Oh my. Priceless and value are likely two words that will not fit in the same sentence of this conversation. I highly doubt people will ever recover all the money spent on restoration projects. Most people I know don't restore a car to "make money" selling it. Even unique cars might not be worth what's spent on them. I think OldChargerGuy is looking to make sure he doesn't get bent over a barrel. I don't understand how quotes/estimates can't be accurately made if the project is thoroughly inspected. What are some shops afraid of? Revealing the true cost of the job and scaring off the potential customer? What customer would say "stop" half way through a project when they are into it financially deeper than they wanted to be... willingly? That is a blatant disservice to a customer. I fully understand the OldcChargerGuy's concern. Not everyone is filthy rich and when given a quote or estimate accepts it based on that and that's all the money budgeted for it or they can afford. But to expect them to keep paying the ransom(anything over the quote) just to see the car finished isn't fair either. I guess some shops think the customer can always take it home. Nice. That's why I say, " stay away from people who think they know what you can afford".
  18. McLaughlin Buick hub caps are like hen's teeth, even though the same cap was used from about 37 to the very early 40's. Reproductions don't fit. The McLaughlins have higher domes, different diameter and three grooves around the outer edge.
  19. Gary, due to time constraints preventing me from going through 39 pages of posts.... I will ask you directly, " where did you get your banjo steering wheel recast?
  20. Don't let the seller convince you that they're not making anymore!
  21. Everyone restores/repairs cars to different standards. Everyone's standards are different, so be it. Look at the heap of junk I started with. As for "barn finds"... all sorts of different degrees of completeness and conditions.... most times I'd say all of them need complete restorations or customizations(what ever your heart desires). Ultimately it depends on what the owner wants to do with it and that's the only person it should matter to.... Everyone else's opinion is just that... their opinion.
  22. The sensation of drowning is a horrible feeling.... Read my signature at the bottom of my posts!
  23. Pics downloaded from the internet. But you get the "picture"....
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