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1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)


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Yup, I tried this today as an experiment. Worked great! It may not get all of the ethanol out, but if it lowers the % from 10 to 1 or 2 percent I am happy. I will start "production" this Spring in 4 gallon batches. At least it will cover the local touring. And if they shove E15 down our throats, a real possibility here in MD, we have a solution. As it were.

 

Cheers, Dave

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey all-

I need some help. I have a '38 Model 48 - two door Victoria Coupe. 

Several years ago I disassembled the car, not thinking it would take five years to complete the work. #longstory

However, I have my interior guy working on putting the seats in and can't seem to figure out how it goes back together. And I think I am missing a piece  or two - or three.

Uploading photos.

 

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Here's some photos that may help:  (These are sized down from their original 12MB..  if you need one e-mailed at full resolution just let me know)

 

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Underside of the front seat bottom assembly.  The black rails are the rear of the seat that slide on the rear rollers, the forward rails have the holes for the tooth wheel.

 

 

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This shows the floor components in place just before installing that seat bottom assembly.

All these thread directly into the floor.

 

 

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When the seat bottom is slid into the rear retainer, you slide it forward and bolt the forward retainer in position to lock down the unit.

 

Hope it helps!

Gary

 

 

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Here's another of the floor parts.  That "triangle" shaped part on the outside of the main rod goes in last, after your seat bottom is slid in position.

 

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I used new 5/16 - 24  X 1" bolts to secure all the components to the floor.

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  • 4 months later...

Hello everyone!  

Yes, the seats were installed on October 19, 2018, and I have been driving her as much as I can!  

This morning I went for a bagel run, and the odometer turned 700 miles.  I REALLY love driving this car!!

 

Just this weekend, the NJ Chapter of the Buick Club of America held it's annual car show.  This was the first time I took her out to an actual car show.  

Members cars were not judged, but we were parked in a prominent spot along the entrance.  The show was nicely staged and enjoyed a good attendance.

 

I do have a few finishing touches to take care of:  Rear bumper stone guard, Engine pans and fabricate and then install the rear window shade.  I'll get to them, but every time I get in the garage, I find myself driving away!  

 

I'd like to share a couple of photos from the show.  I was told by many people in attendance that I should explore getting a Junior / Senior at Hershey.  It's a great feeling when all your hard work is appreciated.

 

 

DSC_9330.thumb.jpeg.23ea45ee447acd0672a0598209db0ef6.jpeg

I arrived at 7:00 and helped the members with the set up.  Later I judged the 70's-80's class.  Fun day.

You don't realize how much work these clubs put into running a successful show.  It is tedious work, and the guys really deserve a lot of credit for making it look so easy.

That's a 1941 four-door sedan next to me.

 

 

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My interior

 

 

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Just turned 700.  So far, very quiet, trouble-free miles!

 

 

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1915 Buick

 

 

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1940 Convertible

 

 

 

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I don't know the year of the 20-foot land yacht next to me, but it had only 19,000 original miles on it.  

 

 

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Our "tails"

 

 

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Roadmaster Convertible.  Stunning!

 

 

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This morning on my way out.  All waxed and polished from the show!

 

 

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She's getting better everyday!  

 

Thanks for checking in!  

I'll keep you posted as I finish up the last doo-dads!

 

Have a great evening out there.... appreciate you all

Gary

 

 

 

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I’ve been spending less time on the forum overall, so decided to take some time on this hot, muggy day to get caught up.  Good work.  One question is whether we will see this wonderful Model 48 at the BCA meet in Strongsville, OH next July?  After seeing this meticulous detail and the thorough photos and explanations, it would be nice for some of us following along to be able to meet you and the car in person and shake your hand.

 

On the fuel note, up here, only the premium fuel has no ethanol.  That allows us something for our vintage autos, small engines and boats.  It costs more, but in my mind it’s worth it.  Of course, I don’t have engine compartments one could otherwise eat off, so I haven’t concerned myself with that too much.  Of course, I also haven’t started actually using the 1929 at all.

 

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Gary:

 The 20' land yacht is a 1969 LeSabre.  I had a white 69 LeSabre convertible from 1973-1979. Fond memories...

We had hopped on getting out to the NJ meet last weekend but our plate has gotten full as of late. Hopefully we can meet up at Strongsville next year.

 The side view stance of your car is just perfect. When I started working on my car seriously back in 2005 I sent the rear springs out to be re-arched.  I also removed the rusted out spring covers. It was not until I got back to the car in 2011 and reinstalled the rear end and such that I noticed that the car now sits lower in the rear. 

139730948_DSCF2603(1024x540).thumb.jpg.07bafb57a188ba85af74cab7d88d8461.jpg I still need to replace the rear shocks.

 

 When are you going to stripe your wheels? At the time I had mine done there was a discussion about 2 or 3 stripe (thin wide thin) as there were examples of a few 37s that had 2 stripes.  I wish I had gone with the 3 stripes. So far the wheels are the only things that are now the correct Hampton Gray.  Except for the original sections on the firewall and all the door jambs. Some day...…. I will get rid of my lousy 1970s black enamel paint job. Someday...…..

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On ‎7‎/‎14‎/‎2019 at 7:46 PM, Gary W said:

Hello everyone!  

Yes, the seats were installed on October 19, 2018, and I have been driving her as much as I can!  

This morning I went for a bagel run, and the odometer turned 700 miles.  I REALLY love driving this car!!

 

Just this weekend, the NJ Chapter of the Buick Club of America held it's annual car show.  This was the first time I took her out to an actual car show.  

Members cars were not judged, but we were parked in a prominent spot along the entrance.  The show was nicely staged and enjoyed a good attendance.

 

I do have a few finishing touches to take care of:  Rear bumper stone guard, Engine pans and fabricate and then install the rear window shade.  I'll get to them, but every time I get in the garage, I find myself driving away!  

 

I'd like to share a couple of photos from the show.  I was told by many people in attendance that I should explore getting a Junior / Senior at Hershey.  It's a great feeling when all your hard work is appreciated.

 

 

DSC_9330.thumb.jpeg.23ea45ee447acd0672a0598209db0ef6.jpeg

I arrived at 7:00 and helped the members with the set up.  Later I judged the 70's-80's class.  Fun day.

You don't realize how much work these clubs put into running a successful show.  It is tedious work, and the guys really deserve a lot of credit for making it look so easy.

That's a 1941 four-door sedan next to me.

 

 

DSC_9389.thumb.jpeg.626358978df7b49fc84620572c559501.jpeg

My interior

 

 

IMG_5528.thumb.jpeg.ef53f538319f469fc7460dda171bbf8f.jpeg

Just turned 700.  So far, very quiet, trouble-free miles!

 

 

DSC_9355.thumb.jpeg.f4016195acf0cbeb03a007d0c72049e0.jpeg

1915 Buick

 

 

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1940 Convertible

 

 

 

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I don't know the year of the 20-foot land yacht next to me, but it had only 19,000 original miles on it.  

 

 

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Our "tails"

 

 

DSC_9366.thumb.jpeg.d88e52d3c0b180e581e201733d68e956.jpeg

Roadmaster Convertible.  Stunning!

 

 

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This morning on my way out.  All waxed and polished from the show!

 

 

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She's getting better everyday!  

 

Thanks for checking in!  

I'll keep you posted as I finish up the last doo-dads!

 

Have a great evening out there.... appreciate you all

Gary

 

 

 

 

Some questions for you:

 

1) You had to expect this one sooner or later. What kind of oil are you using in your engine?

 

2) Have you decided whether or not you will add an oil bypass filter to the engine?

 

3) You mention in your post that your car is "All waxed and polished from the show!" What kind of wax are you using? The black sheet metal is lustrous, like I remember cars being when I was a kid.

 

4) After driving it for 700 miles, do you have any second thoughts about not putting radial tires, instead of bias tires, on it?

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Hello Riviera!  Great to hear from you!

 

*****(Sorry for the delay....  I was literally posting this Monday night and as I was proofreading....  Out went the lights.  They JUST came back on tonight!)*****

 

 

.....  and some answers for you:

 

1)  OIL: I use  "TORCO" brand,  TR-1(R)  10W-40.  I've been using this in my cars for years.  I buy it by the case and do all the cars at once.  

2)  FILTER: I'm not going to install an oil filter to the engine.  I faithfully change my oil every 500 miles or once a year.  It may sound wasteful, but I just like knowing I'm running fresh, clean oil.

3)  WAX:  Bob (my painter) turned me on to a product called "Collinite".  That's what I used for the show this time.  I have some favorites I've used through the years with successful results.

4)  TIRES: I love the way my bias tires look and I'm very satisfied with the ride.  The car drives beautifully!  

 

Some Photos:  (of course!)

 

 

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Once I drained the break-in oil out of the engine, I filled it with this Torco TR-1(R).

I also use this oil in my Model "A"'s and the Model "T"

 

 

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These have always been my "go-to" waxes of choice.  I like the Zymol, especially their "carbon black" but it was getting very expensive.

 

 

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I've been a long time customer of Griot's Garage, and use their products constantly.

Their rubber cleaner and tire dressings make the wide whites just beautiful.

 

 

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This is what Bob recommended .  Collinite No. 476S.

And he told me "never rub in circles!"  Always nice easy lines.

 

 

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They're in Utica, NY for anyone interested.

 

 

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The 1940 Buick at the show had radials.  Maybe they drive nicer, maybe they handle better....

 

 

 

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But I still like the wide, four-inch white wall that the bias tires have.  

In my humble opinion, the bias tires just look more "period correct"  and I'm very happy with the ride.

Of course, I haven't driven another Buick of the same vintage with radials to compare the handling properties, so I'll leave it at that.  Aesthetics.

 

Thanks for checking in!

 

Gary

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  • 1 month later...

Wednesday September 11, 2019:  Oil Pump Replacement

 

 

I now have 850 miles on the Buick, and she's running better everyday, but I've been constantly worried about the oil pressure.

 I've been following other threads and other discussions regarding the proper oil pressure, and I was never convinced my engine was getting the oil pressure Buick specified.

I do tend to obsess over everything, but this turned out to be a good one.

 

My car would immediately produce 38 psi at start up, cold oil.  After only a five minute idle, it would fall to about 28 - 30 psi.  

At speed, she would maintain about 25 pounds, but Buick specifies 45 psi.

 

But when it was hot, and sitting at a light, the actual oil pressure dropped to zero.  Literally dropped down to nothing.

This situation has been haunting me since day one, so I purchased another 1937 Buick oil pump from Dave Tachney and sent it to Egge for a rebuild.

 

This morning I got the time to swap out my original pump with the rebuild, and the difference is already noticeable .

 

I'd like to show how I did it step-by-step, as I get a lot of private messages and e-mails about this very subject.

 

ALSO....  I have to thank Mr. Art Sommers for graciously allowing me use of his lift!  The job took a little more than an hour to accomplish and that's because we were able to lift the car.

 

Here goes:

 

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I disconnected my oil pressure dash gauge and replaced it with this gauge right on the block.

This way I can be sure that my low readings were not simply a bad dash gauge.

This photo is the car idling after a 20 mile drive on a fairly hot day.  The oil pressure at idle when hot is ZERO.

My dash gauge also showed zero, but I thought the dash gauge had to be off a bit.  It wasn't.

 

 

So, here is the step - by - step for anyone contemplating the job:

 

 

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On the lift, my buddy John (now 89 years old) talking with Art Sommers.

1. Remove the dipstick

2. Drain the oil

 

 

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3. Remove the flywheel cover pan.

 

 

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4. Remove the 9/16" bolts that hold the front stabilizer to the frame.  Release the brackets to allow the bar a little movement.

Leave it attached to the front end.

 

 

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5. Remove all 32 pan bolts.  A couple well placed taps on a screwdriver will release the pan.

6. Turn the flywheel so the crank journal up front is horizontal.

7. Jiggle pan down while pulling on the loosened stabilizer to get the clearance you need.

8. Remove two bolts to release the oil pump from the block.

 

 

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Hard to see in low-res photos, but there is a little very, very fine metal "dust" in the pan.  (Those black chunks are gasket pieces that fell in on removal)

So, I guess with new pistons, new rings and the first 850 miles, there was a little metal scrapings in the pan.

 

 

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9. Scrape all gasket material from pan and block.

10. Clean interior of pan of all foreign material

 

 

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11. With a hammer, flatten all "bulging" areas around the mounting bolt holes so the pan sits nice and flush on the block.

12. I used a small amount of permatex black to tack the new pan gasket to the pan so it wouldn't slide around on installation.

 

 

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13.  Pour oil into the new-rebuilt oil pump to fill it and "prime" it.  You can feel the resistance of the gears when it fills with oil.

14.  Install the oil pump gasket and look up at the position of the slot in the distributor shaft that the oil pump mates to.

15. Line up the slot, groove and bolt the pump in.

Here, I turned the flywheel by hand and watched the oil pump shaft turn to confirm she was seated properly.

16.  Again, with the crankshaft horizontal up front, and the new gasket lined up, seat the oil pan and begin installing 32 pan bolts.

(Your block is scraped clean and wiped off for the new gasket)

17. Install the flywheel cover pan

18. Replace the front stabilizer mounting brackets on to the frame

19.  Pour 6 - 7 quarts of oil back in the motor

20.  Replace the dipstick.

 

 

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Start her up!

Now, on cold start, she jumped right up to 58 pounds!

 

 

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After about 5 - 7 minutes idling to check for oil leaks....... Engine was warm and holding steady at 20 pounds.

 

I drove her home, about a ten mile drive in today's 88 degree heat and when I got home I let it set in the driveway and idle.

This was now all warmed up, engine hot, and super low idle and the pump is holding 10 pounds where she used to be zero.

 

I feel a lot better about replacing that unit.  I'm going to send my original out for rebuild next to have a spare.

 

Have a great night out there!

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Good job, glad you did this before accumulating too much mileage. I had the exact same issue 25 years ago after rebuilding my 38 Special engine which had 20-25 lbs at 50MPH and 2-3 lbs at idle when hot.  Your description is step for step what I did but I bought a rebuilt pump. Now, on cold start it goes to 45 lbs and stays there until the oil gets hot when it drops to 30-35 lbs at 50MPH and 10 lbs at idle. 

 

There is a relief spring in the pump that I think limits the max. pressure to 45 lbs but your pump seems to go higher. Was your pump rebuilt to factory specs or was the relief pressure increased? I suspect your pump is correct as my daily driver, a 2012  Cadillac

CTS-V, shows 55-60 lbs cold and drops to 40-45 lbs hot and 20-25 lbs at idle (idle RPM is faster than on the Buick) which is closer to what your pressure characteristic shows.  

 

Steve D

 

    

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Gary:

 When I rebuilt my 37 Special pump in 1988 I was still able to get new gears. I installed those gears, lapped the bottom plate and reinstalled. The engine was started and I had 45-50 psi at idle. Today 31 years later it still has 45 psi at start up and at 50 mph. Hot, we are around 25-30 psi. A stop light idle after a long drive it goes down to 10-15 psi.

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  • 1 month later...

Saturday, October 26, 2019:  First Thousand Miles!

 

Almost exactly one year since the maiden drive, She turned her first thousand!

 

During this first thousand "break-in" miles, I've done the following:

> Swapped out the reproduction front coil springs for the original coils to restore the proper front ride height

> Changed the original Marvel BD carburetor for a Carter 608S and all related linkages

> Replaced the thermostat gasket and bolts

> Hooked up the hand throttle

> Changed out the oil pump for a rebuilt unit

> Burned approximately 78 gallons of gas and changed the oil four times.

(oil: the break-in oil and the first change were fouled by the Marvel.  I also changed it during the oil pump swap)

 

Still to do:

> Make a rear shade and install it.  I'm looking for fabric now.

> Install an electric "priming" fuel pump to fill the carburetor when she sits over a week

> I'm also going to raise the seat about 3/4".  I'm 5' 7", and I feel like I need to sit a bit higher!

 

I have to say, this really is a fine automobile!  I absolutely enjoy driving it and find any excuse to get her on the road!

 

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Turning 1000.  (Note that oil pressure sitting right at 45 psi!)

 

 

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Sitting with the fall foliage on a beautiful day.

 

Have a great night out there!

Gary

 

 

 

 

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Always great when you add to your story Gary.  Does NJ require you to run the current tag no matter what (thus the 2 plates)?  Here in KY we can run the original year plate and just keep the current registered plate inside the car.

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I too am doing some final tweaks on the 36 Model 48. I have about 50 miles on mine. I need to adjust the suspension. Using the running boards, unless someone else has a better idea. What is the distance from the front running board to the ground and the back of the running board to the ground? I'm going to a suspension shop next week.

Appreciate any help.

Thanks!

~P.

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11 minutes ago, 39BuickEight said:

Always great when you add to your story Gary.  Does NJ require you to run the current tag no matter what (thus the 2 plates)?  Here in KY we can run the original year plate and just keep the current registered plate inside the car.

Same in NC - I have two 36 plates for NC.

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1 hour ago, 39BuickEight said:

Does NJ require you to run the current tag no matter what (thus the 2 plates)?

 

 

NJ requires two plates on every registered vehicle, one front, one rear.  You have to display the actual NJMVC issued "QQ" plates on your historic vehicle.  I think there is a petition brewing somewhere in Trenton to make it legal to only display a rear plate, but I don't know the current status.  I like getting my "QQ"'s personalized, I think they look cool.

 

About two years ago, I was getting my 1930 Roadster ready for the Monmouth County Concours d'Elegance.  To finish the detail, I put original restored 1930 plates on the car.  I was tooling around the block and got pulled over by a local officer who first asked me if the car was registered, (the original plates didn't jive with his computer) and then told me I need to get the "QQ" plates back on the car ASAP.  I WAS carrying them with me on the rear package shelf, but that wasn't good enough.  They had to be affixed to the car. I didn't get a ticket, but I think I was close!!   I wish we had a Y-O-M program like some states, but so far.........  

 

Always great checking in with you guys.  Love this place!

Gary

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Gary,

Here is the bottom plate for my oil pump, before I emoryed it "just flat" and eliminated the dark leaking spots.

I sealed it with a THIN coat of #2 permatex, and stuck a 1/4" nut behind the pressure relief spring.

Per the old timers, there should be no more than .005" between the gears and the bottom plate.

Mine measures .0022" with "plastigage".

My unmolested '40 LTD motor now has 60+ on a cold start, and 40-50 @ 55MPH and 35 at a HOT extended idle, using Shell Rotella 15W/40, T4.

Hammering the pan holes back flat is also a good idea. Saves a lot of RTV.

 

Mike in Colorado

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  • 3 weeks later...

Saturday November 16, 2019:  The Buick teaches me another lesson.........

 

Good morning out there.  

Here's one of those stories where you start the day with project "A" in mind (installing auxiliary fuel pump) and end up somewhere else!

 

I've been working on installing an auxiliary fuel pump, solely for priming the carburetor after she sits for 7+ days.  

The directions say to mount the pump close to the tank.   So...  I got under the car to seek out a good location and immediately noticed the right rear leaf spring leaves all "slid out" of stack!!!

 

It's funny, last week I took the car out to get some 3-y ear "before and after" photos, and my wife noticed in some of the photos that the car looks like it was leaning.  

I wrote it off to the angle of the camera.....  the position of the car in the photo....... until yesterday when I was under there.  

 

Let me show you what I found:

 

 

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The rebound clips held the longest three leaves.  But the fourth slid out to the inside of the car, the bottom stack went out to the tire.

 

 

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I did notice a heavy scratch down the leaves, I have no idea where that came from or if it is related to this issue...

 

 

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I was able to jack up the rear end, rest the chassis rails down on the jack stands which "unloaded" the spring.

Just by loosening the stabilizer nut and all four U-Bolts, I was able to realign the leaves properly and tighten her back up.

 

 

 

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3-years ago.   I went back to this photo just to see how far the nuts were tightened.

 

 

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Then to the manual which states "It is important to tighten spring U-Bolts as tight as they can be drawn up with an 8" wrench"

Retighten at 1000 miles and again at 2000 miles.

 

 

DSC_1137.thumb.jpeg.01aecdde6b71e02b837257948c7bdc02.jpeg

And tighten them I did!  Then I went to check the drivers side and those nuts took another turn also!

 

 

IMG_6957.thumb.jpeg.72e316e6620ca110f93d7f359ddc3025.jpeg

November 2016 to November 2019.

 

 

I was thinking of getting another rebound clip for the middle of the stack.  I would get four, one for each side of the rear leaves.  Would that in any way change the riding qualities?

It just seems that there are a lot of "unprotected" leaves in that stack, and I don't want this to happen again.  Originally, the springs had a tin cover the entire length.

 

 

 

So here's my two cents:

When I first assembled the spring plate, I used my Ryobi 18V impact wrench to tighten things up.

 I NEVER even thought to check the tightness with a wrench, ratchet, breaker bar.... after using the impact.  I assumed the impact made it nice and tight.  

Wrong.

 

Even yesterday, I still used the impact to tighten up the nuts because it works fast and it was 28 degrees out. 

But when the impact was at it's limit, I put a ratchet on the nuts and EASILY got a full turn out of them!

So I tightened up the other side as well and went out for a ride.  All good.

 

So,  I think the issue is that the initial torque was insufficient.  

But....  I dodged a bullet because if that bottom stack swung inwards, It could have pierced my gas tank.  As it is, I only have a little scuff mark on my tire

 

 

 

Lesson Learned.

 

Gary


 

 

 

 

 

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Gary:

 I pulled off the rusty spring covers off of mine also. I needed to ask what is the unloaded riding height of your car?  Say, from the bottom edge of the body below the center of trunk.

 Mine had the springs gone over and my car does seem lower at the rear. I count that we both have 8 leaves. Other 37s I have seen look to have a higher stance. I have a NOS set of rear shocks I have put off installing since I purchased them at Hershey over 30 years ago. Rear seat passengers have complained of the bouncy ride...

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Hi Larry!

 

From the bottom of that spot-welded "lip" under the trunk to the floor is 16 1/2".  

I have a spare tire and a full tool box in the trunk, I don't think that would change it much.  

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36 Buick Model 48. My car has had the suspension modernized. So, not much help here. But! I did take it to a spring shop that has been in business since 1935. :) They put more arch in the rear and cut a little from the front. She is now level and drives like a dream.

The distance between the rear fender and the rear tire- not stock rear tires - was so close I could barely get my hand between the two. I can now easily get my wheel tire strap off with no problems. Now that it runs right, I plan on doing more driving and less towing. :)

 

 

Edited by pplaut (see edit history)
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The weather finally broke and I was able to take the car out for a quick spin on some country roads. I was amazed at the difference. She road like a Buick instead of a go cart.

Thanks to all for any and all advice.

~P.

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  • 3 months later...

Beautiful car Gary!

A couple of years ago  I saw a service bulletin or page out of a service manual (or?) showing the steps to reposition the front seat of a 37 back a few inches. I believe it was from the era. Seems it was a miscalculation by Buick having the front seat too far forward and not adjustable far enough back for that year. Has anyone seen that or know where it might be?

Thanks for any help,

Dave

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Hi Dave!

 

Yes, there is a "Buick Accepted" method for moving the front seat back.  

Basically, you remove the front seat frame, and reposition the seat hardware under there forward, so when the seat is replaced, it is effectively in a new rearward position.

 

The previous owner of my car simply drilled new holes in the floor to accomplish the task.  By drilling holes in the floor, he was able to reposition everything back about three inches.  But he also had to notch out the wood frame to allow battery access.

The Buick method will give you an additional 1/2".

 

 

Here is the procedure from the 1937 Dealer Service Bulletins from Oct 10, 1936 to July 15, 1937:

 

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Page 23

 

 

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Page 24

 

 

Gary

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  • 5 months later...

Wednesday August 12, 2020:    Installation of an accessory "priming" electric fuel pump  (Post #1 of 6)

Hello everyone!!

 

For those of you who have followed me along the journey, one of the last things I wanted to install was an electric fuel pump to help "prime" the carburetor after sitting six days unused.  

Any start within the six day time frame and she fires right off before the accelerator hits the floorboards.

Day seven is a bear.

 I feel like I'm really stressing the starter, the electrical system.... as she turns over and over until the mechanical fuel pump moves enough fuel up and over to fill the carburetor bowl.

 

When the State shut us down on March 17, I had some free time on my hands. Between working like crazy on the office and the house, I finally got this project done and I am so happy that it is installed.  

It has solved the issue completely.

 

So, please bear with me as I took a lot of photos and I will make six different posts detailing every step along the way.

My hope is that if someone out there is contemplating installing one, these posts may help.

 

The first 3 posts deal with the installation of what I call the "Hardware"....... The actual fuel pump, associated valves, SS tubing, the under-dash switch, and a master "kill switch"

The second 3 posts will cover all the wiring and routing of same to complete the job.

 

Here goes:

 

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The very first thing I did was get under the car and make a layout of what I call "fixed points" to mount the fuel pump.  

I had a flare fit coming off the tank in the rear, another flare fit heading up to the mechanical fuel pump

and a chassis hole that was perfect for mounting the bracket that supports the fuel pump.

 

 

1054740858_Fuelpumplayout.thumb.jpeg.17ff10479fec0afadf74b9fbd90e4e6d.jpeg

 

I carefully measured all the fixed points, and all my components and began to come up with a plan.

I basically had about 59" of straight fuel line between the flare fittings and one fixed mounting hole.

 

 

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6 Volt fuel pump.  I ordered it through Snyder's Model "A" parts supplier.  

The first thing to do is attach that (filter?) or (one-way valve?) onto the tank side.

It is literally called two different things in the instructions, so I just assembled it on there!

 

 

IMG_6229.thumb.jpeg.6d400f2efaf8b98ca6572ea361fcf0ae.jpeg

 

I use this EZ Turn for all my gasoline connections.  I don't use teflon tape.

 

 

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Next, I installed the fittings that will accept the 5/16" stainless steel fuel line.  

 

 

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I used these "YOR-LOK" fittings and they are a very nice, precision compression fit.

I got them through McMaster Carr.

 

 

1812873400_ScreenShot2020-05-27at7_06_51AM.thumb.png.95f20164fd19a97c86f4849365f3e641.png

 

Here is the catalog description for anyone interested.

 

 

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The "YOR-LOK" fittings are snugged down.

 

 

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The black wire is ground, the brownish wire is the hot.

I soldered the female end to the ground and the male end onto the hot wire.

My rationale is that should the pump fail one day, the wiring will be much easier should it have to be changed out for a new one.

 

 

Photo size ends post #1, but onto #2.........

 

 

 

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Wednesday August 12, 2020:    Installation of an accessory "priming" electric fuel pump  (Post #2 of 6)

 

 

DSC_1151.thumb.jpeg.75c5bcd1d01bf574f76d799e4f4c4285.jpeg

 

So here's the fuel pump with the wire ends soldered on and shrink wrapped.  I used a "period-looking" wrap for the wires as well.

 

 

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Through Grainger Supply, I was able to find these 5/16" plug valves that I installed fore and aft of the fuel pump.

Again, in case the pump has to be swapped out one day, I thought it would be really nice to be able to shut the fuel line off completely to make the swap easier.

 

 

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Using the flare tool, I put new flares on the far ends to mate with the flare fittings already under the car.

 

 

DSC_1364.thumb.jpeg.fe0f1ed791629ae4d59c7f0f291f74d6.jpeg

 

So here's my rig.  59" flare to flare, two plug valves, new SS tubing.

 

 

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This is the layout all labelled.  I came pretty close to the original paper mess I made.

 

 

638518855_ScreenShot2020-05-27at8_29_16AM.thumb.png.5aa5e844a5d590e522931f5bf996b970.png

 

Showtime!

I used disposable baking tins under the car to catch the fuel that spills out once the flare fittings are opened up.

Then, I fit my rig under there, tightened her up......

 

 

1044983939_ScreenShot2020-05-27at8_30_26AM.thumb.png.8c3331d3903f5f851d89e8af7b498841.png

 

And here we are installed!

I think I may paint the whole install a nice chassis black, but for show and tell, it's better to leave it unpainted.

(I did take the bracket off and trimmed the excess tab!)

 

 

...Onto #3

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Wednesday August 12, 2020:    Installation of an accessory "priming" electric fuel pump  (Post #3 of 6)

 

Push button switch and master "kill switch"

 

 

DSC_0917.thumb.jpeg.e333d3effd5a24268ede0de43a48d42b.jpeg

 

I went to my local Auto Zone and purchased this momentary push button switch that I mounted under the dash.

I made the mounting bracket out of aluminum bar stock, and painted the switch flat black so it disappears in the car.

That's a rubber cover on the right that fits over the push button.

 

 

DSC_1526.thumb.jpeg.9bc96aa89758cf912aee149d9caa7ca7.jpeg

 

I mounted the push button switch right over the key area, just under the dash.  It really fits in there nice and it is not at all ugly to look at.

 

 

DSC_1565.thumb.jpeg.b092a9c2ee6a85b79c6e7f7f1ef519fb.jpeg

 

Next, I moved my master "kill switch" from under the hood, to inside the car.  

I made that heavy brass bar to mount the kill switch and carry the current to the starter, but I was really getting sick of raising the hood before and after every ride.

 

 

DSC_1582.thumb.jpeg.abfd9b1ba7666a50330f3323be8a8b7b.jpeg

 

So, I removed the front seat completely and carefully measured where I wanted to relocate the "kill switch"

 

 

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This spot, just in front of the seat was perfect.  I wish I had metal drill bits!

After burning a hole through the floor,  mounted the kill switch.

 

 

IMG_9732.thumb.jpeg.99850bb088662b7a7f1169cc285f391e.jpeg

 

I ate up two of these.  I guess they're designed for woodworking?

 

 

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Now the "kill switch" is floor mounted nice and snug.

 

 

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I painted the handle bronze-brown, and it is so much nicer to use.

The seat has room to move fully and my floor mat hides it so it's good.

 

 

Onto #4...  now that the hardware is installed, time to run all the wiring........

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Wednesday August 12, 2020:    Installation of an accessory "priming" electric fuel pump  (Post #4 of 6)

 

Begin wiring

 

 

DSC_1572.thumb.jpeg.ba26fb181e4b94416446966c2aa785b5.jpeg

 

This is what I'll call the "before" photo of my battery cables.  

I ran 2/0  (Two-Aught) cables from the "+" side to my kill switch

I ran TWO - 2/0 cables from the "-" side to grounds.  One directly to the starter ground, another to the frame ground.

 

 

54439151_BuickBatteryCablesrouting.thumb.jpeg.35342605386d397ee04e0167a9bd766a.jpeg

 

Here's my basic "before" cable diagram.  One ground directly to the starter, with a braid to the frame.

The other ground directly to the frame.  I grounded the fuel tank sending unit from that ground hub.

 

 

DSC_1435.thumb.jpeg.3541f8de82bc60dc839f441236cae24a.jpeg

 

Using dental floss to measure distances, I needed 35" of wire to make the ground wire for the fuel pump.

I used 12 gauge wire, soldered ends, shrink wrap and again, covered in a period-correct wrap.

 

 

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This is the frame ground hub that the fuel sending unit is grounded to.

I attached my new fuel pump ground wire to this hub in the frame and the ground wire was done.

 

 

DSC_1453.thumb.jpeg.aeb4863ad4d0bb962d433d6434a74a11.jpeg

 

I again used floss to trace out and measure for the "hot" side of the fuel pump.

This wire has to go from the "kill switch" up to the dash mounted push-button switch, and back down to the electric fuel pump.

I think it's around 16 feet long.  I wanted it to look authentic, so again, I used the wire wrap.

 

 

DSC_1470.thumb.jpeg.feda8366ad785f1b24a5b70d06875c47.jpeg

 

I used a hole punch to take a "bite" out of the major harness where the one wire will exit early.  

The duct tape is there as a length marker so I knew where to take the bite.

 

 

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I used this snake from Home Depot to help me pull the wires through the long conduit.

 

 

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I pushed the snake all the way through the conduit, then attached the wires to the snake and carefully pulled everything through.

 

 

 

Part 5 next.....

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Wednesday August 12, 2020:    Installation of an accessory "priming" electric fuel pump  (Post #5 of 6)

 

Continuing with the wiring harness....

 

DSC_1482.thumb.jpeg.0a0259224f14bd2e9dd388c76e048601.jpeg

 

At the point of the "bite",  I pulled the red wire out of the conduit, as when it's under the car it goes another direction at this point.

 

 

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I slid on a smaller diameter wire cover over the single wire.

 

 

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Using this thread, I carefully wrapped the new branch to the existing conduit.  I went slowly in a figure-8 pattern to complete the look.

 

 

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When done wrapping, it looks nice and neat and period correct.

 

 

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So, here's the completed wiring harness for the "hot" side of the circuit.

There are no ends soldered on yet, as it is easier to run the wire first.

 

 

DSC_1522.thumb.jpeg.a0b5573706515a2969b3ef79b722458f.jpeg

 

From the battery / "kill switch" area under the car, I ran the new harness up and over the firewall following the original wiring.

I know the original clips are not large enough for both conduits, so I may make larger ones using brass strip.

 

 

DSC_1535.thumb.jpeg.9b5de2a34a41a59840a765e2b76d2545.jpeg

 

Up and over the horns, I fed the new wires through an open hold in the large grommet on the firewall.

 

 

DSC_1517.thumb.jpeg.4254d7e401ae5a3b0673612f62b23921.jpeg

 

Once satisfied of the proper length and position, I used this bunch of tools to solder the round ends onto the wires under the dash.

 

 

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And the push-button switch under the dash is now wired and everything fits nice and neatly under there.

 

 

Last but not least....  Post #6 next.....

 

 

 

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Wednesday August 12, 2020:    Installation of an accessory "priming" electric fuel pump  (Post #6 of 6)

 

Finalizing the electric part of the pump install.

 

 

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I used this 25 Amp fuse holder (From "Fun Projects") in line to protect the system should a wire short out.

 

 

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I ordered new battery cables because when I moved my master "kill switch" from under the hood to inside the car, none of my original 2/0 wires fit anymore.

I ordered this 3/0 that runs from the switched side of the "kill switch" to the starter.  The cable came wrapped in a nylon-ish cover.

To make it appear more period correct, I again carefully wrapped it in a thread wrap for aesthetics only.

 

 

DSC_1830.thumb.jpeg.877a7f9a9d496b301d1b0511ce23cf09.jpeg

I carried the wrap far enough so when you look under the hood, it looks nice and more correct.

(I couldn't find anyone making 3/0 with the cloth wrap unless I wanted to wait 5-6 months!)

 

 

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Cables.  

From Left to Right:

2/0 cloth wrapped that I removed from the car

2/0 super-flex that I didn't like the look

3/0 with the shiny, nylon-like wrap

3/0 the same one, that I wrapped with the thread

4/0 super-flex that now carries the main current from the battery to one side of the "kill switch"

 

 

DSC_1866.thumb.jpeg.b7d17cccb0eb7d26e007ec24ea797215.jpeg

 

 

So, now, under the hood it looks like this.  That's my new 3/0 running to the starter.

 

 

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Under the seat, the heavy 4/0 carries the main current from the battery to one side of the "kill switch".

 

 

 

1859986831_BuickBatteryCables20201.thumb.jpeg.5da6ce00fa96632a66ff8ec537444576.jpeg

 

Here's my new electric schematic.  The 2/0 ground cables stayed the same.

 

 

Great catching up with y'all again!!!

 

Have a great night out there!

 

Gary

 

 

 

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Wednesday August 12, 2020:    Installation of an accessory "priming" electric fuel pump  (Post #7 of 6)

 

Just a few "Before - and - After" photos of the electric changes.

 

 

activitymore-00B93903-C2A5-4CD3-BFBA-0F5E2ED01FED.thumb.png.702cc37e2add6b2f72567a1f37cc0bfa.png

 

Comparison of the engine / starter area before and after.  I just think it looks a lot more original and cleaner in there.

 

 

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The 2/0 ground cables stayed the same, but the heavier 4/0 now carries the "+" current over to the master "kill switch"

 

 

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Before and after of the electric wiring schematic.  

I did not feed the electric fuel pump off the light switch or any other wire under the dash.  It comes directly off the master "kill switch" through a fused 12 gauge wire.

I used a momentary push button switch, and I find after sitting two weeks, it needs about 30 seconds and she fires right off.

 

I push the button until an audible change in tone is heard.  You kind of know when the system is ready to go.  

The pump whirrs away under there, and then gets almost totally silent.

I used the momentary push button (for now) because my original, rebuilt mechanical fuel pump works flawlessly.  It draws through the electric pump without any trouble.

 

 

Time to sign off!

 

Have a great night!

Gary

 

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Really nice work on the fuel pump, Gary. I'm really impressed by your OEM-looking wiring and the way you wrapped the cables to make them look correct. Great job!

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Gary

 

Re: primer pump.

 

Wouldn't have an inline check valve work to prevent too much fuel draining back? 

Installed somewhere on the gas line between the gas tank and fuel pump.

That would probably give you enough fuel until the mechanical pump pulled more fuel to the check valve.

 

Is there a reason you chose electric primer over a check valve?   

Just curious.

Edited by 1937McBuick (see edit history)
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