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carbdoc

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Everything posted by carbdoc

  1. Does anyone have a Chrysler P/N 4094149 brake booster, functioning or rebuildable, for my 1978 Dodge D-150 pickup? Rebuilt boosters are currently on backorder everywhere, and I need to get this truck fully operational ASAP. I want to keep the faulty old booster on there until I get an operable one because the truck is marginally drivable at lower speeds with the old one in place, hence I don't want to send it out for rebuilding just now. Jeff
  2. Jack, please look at the post just prior to my previous comment (I think). The character portrayed there is Detective Monk, armed with disinfectant bottle and clean white towels, as played by Tony Shaloub. He was a germophobe detective with OCD, but he could definitely solve a crime. "Monk" has been off the air (do they still call it that?) for years now. I have been compared to Monk for wiping my eyes only with clean shop rags.😁 Jeff
  3. Thanks, Jack. I can assure you that I NEVER wipe my eyes with shop rags, new OR used. If that solidifies my new characterization as "Monk", then so be it. 😆 I worked in some places that used uniform and shop rag supply services when I was young, and I would never use them for my own business knowing and seeing how they "operate". Guess I'll just keep looking for deals on the type of rags I find work best to clean-up old carburetor parts. Jeff
  4. Thanks for all of the replies. Cotton T-shirts do a fine job for polishing, but they're not so great for my daily tasks. I need the "traditional" white shop rags, thinly-bound along the edges, for the type of work that I do (restoring ancient carburetors). The bound edge allows me to "catch" it over the end of a tiny screwdriver without tearing, douse it with carb cleaner and clean dirt out of very small bores and passages. The "face" of the rag is (obviously) used as well, but it is ineffective if it is woven thinly like cheesecloth. And why do I specify "white" cloth? Because the dye in those red rags is rarely colorfast, and does it ever make a mess of my work and my hands! 😝 Jeff
  5. Thanks! Do they have bound edges? I can't tell from the photo. Jeff
  6. Thanks to all for your suggestions! What I failed to initially mention is that I need these rags to not only be more solid than cheesecloth, but that I also need them to have a very narrow bound edge. That way, I can "catch" a small instrument in the bound edge and get into small passages and throttle shaft bores and clean, clean, clean with some Berryman's B-12 carb cleaner. Stupid me: I have been using that design for so many decades that I just figured that all "shop rags" met this description! Jeff
  7. Where do I buy good-quality white shop towels (rags)? All of the white shop towels available in bundles now seem to be made from something akin to cheesecloth; you can look straight through the skimpy things! There is little absorbency/longevity --- the quality has decreased dramatically in the past couple of years, no matter from what vendor I buy them. And the reason that I specify "white" is because I don't want red-pink stains in my work from non-colorfast red rags; I suppose that those are made of "cheesecloth" now as well . . . Carbdoc Jeff
  8. I need a brake booster for my 1978 Dodge D-150, Chrysler P/N 4094149. Here is what it looks like, and yes, it must have four studs for mounting the master cylinder to it. I am willing to buy a used one if it is fully functional so that I can keep my truck on the road while I get the original rebuilt.
  9. I have a 1978 Dodge D-150 with a 400 c.i.d. engine. Upon accelerating (even in park/neutral), it backfires through the 2-bbl Carter carburetor. Naturally, I have been through the carburetor and it does not appear to be malfunctioning. It shoots two generous streams of non-ethanol gasoline from the accelerator pump jets upon acceleration. The vacuum advance is working as it should and is attached to spark-timed vacuum as original, not manifold vacuum. The engine is timed to the mark. I just did a quick check using a breaker bar and a 1-1/4" socket on the crank. I am guesstimating that there is 5-6 degrees of lash in the timing chain/gears. Would this really be enough to cause that big a problem? I seem to recall having run Mopar big blocks without an issue, even though they had a more lash than that. Suggestions? Observations? Jeff
  10. I have a bent driveshaft on my 1978 Dodge D-150 (2-W.D.) long bed Club Cab pickup truck. The shaft has a yoke at both ends, and measures 50-1/4" yoke center to yoke center. Does anyone have a straight driveshaft for this truck that they would sell? I can measure and post more dimensions as need be. Thanks! Jeff
  11. Rather than tamper with 47-year-old original wiring, I'm first going to try a set of Sylvania Silver Star sealed beam headlamps. If that doesn't work, then I'll return to this page and try the relay suggestion. Thanks to all. Jeff
  12. Fordy, Thanks. I had to have that done with a simple brass part recently; it cost a bloody fortune! I think I have an air vane on the way, but will keep y'all posted if it doesn't work out.
  13. Bloo, Thanks . . . but yikes, those prices!
  14. Mobileparts, the current lamps are Sylvania Halogen Xtravision. What brand are you recommending?
  15. Does anyone know if there exist any brighter rectangular quad headlamps for 1970s cars? We have used Sylvania Xtravision sealed beam headlamp bulbs in our '76 Oldsmobile for decades, but they just don't seem to be adequate anymore (might have something to do with age? Mine, not the car). What (if any) set-ups will give me a bit more night vision down the road without blinding oncoming drivers? This is important to me because it seems that I am being blinded by "aircraft landing lights" on every other vehicle that passes me. Thanks! Jeff
  16. I am restoring a Marvel Carburetor Model 10-796 for a 1931 Buick Series 90. One of the two aluminum air vanes in the carburetor's cast iron air valve body is broken in two -- and no, I don't know how that happened; it arrived that way. As can be seen in the photo, this is the air vane which does NOT carry the brass air valve damper piston and rod assembly; it has been reassembled with super glue for this photo. Its cast-in Part Number is 50-77. Only this part number will fit correctly. I have contacted numerous members of the Buick / Marvel carburetor community and I am not having much luck finding this piece. Can anyone help me out? Jeff Dreibus
  17. The Doc is humbled . . . I have managed to lose a carburetor inlet needle. And was this just "any old inlet needle?" Nooo . . . this was a needle from a Stromberg M-5 carburetor ca. 1922, a BIG baby used on a Seagrave fire engine. This needle's shaft is 5/32" in diameter, and it is about 3" long with 10-32 male threads on the top and a steel tip on the bottom. The sad part is: I can make the shaft, but I don't have (and can't make) the needle tip. If this were an "ordinary" Stromberg with a small orifice in the seat, I would simply adapt a modern Viton-tip needle to a new shaft . . . but the bore in the needle seat is .160", and I have no Viton tips that big. And no, I can't just make the orifice smaller or I'll starve the engine for fuel under load. Does anybody have such a needle? Or perhaps some other thoughts regarding a solution? Jeff
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