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Everything posted by DonMicheletti

  1. The speedometer head is rather complicated in how the speedometer and odometer work. The only way to find out why the odometer doesnt work is to remove the head , open it up and have a look...or have it done. Repairs can be touchy.
  2. How well did the starter work before you had it rebuilt? Why did you have it rebuilt?
  3. To me, the aluminum radiator says it has an overheating problem....not uncommon on these cars.
  4. Bad ground? The ground on those lights has to go throuh a bunch of questionable joints. On one of my '38's I had to add a dedicated ground wire to get things working right as running and directional signals
  5. I wondered about the gas mileage on my '38 Buick Roadmaster, so once I calculated it on a highway trip. 11.3 MPG. I never calculated it again. It wasnt important.
  6. Since the cables are hot and it worked before rebuilding, I'd question the starter. Even though you trust the rebuilder, every once in a while there is a "clinker". I'd have him check it/
  7. The amusing thing about the video is that today we treat those cars as if they were fragile ! Try doing that trip that with your 2021 Jeep !
  8. Dont forget it is also "NUMBERS MATCHING"
  9. Good that you were successfull. Your way was a lot simpler. I had to replace the caps anyway - they were pretty rusty and pitted.
  10. I had a heck of a time getting all mine out. I ended up removing the bushing and drilling the hole to accept a screw inserted from the bushing bore (photo) and a slide hammer to pull them. It was a bear. The pushrod was similar, just drilling through the cap and crappy old felt. Obviously, I destroyed the caps. I made replacements of stainless steel and polished them before installation - they look like they were nickeled. This is my spare engine that had sat in the forest,with no hood, for 40 years. The caps rere carp anyway.
  11. What about grinding to .020" under. I think those are available. I dont think the additional .010" will make a difference
  12. This is the float level at which I set my E-45. It runs well
  13. I have a 1918 E-45 Buick. Mechanically the same as yours. First, get an owners manual, there are reprints and there is a ton of information there. Bobs Automobilia has them. After sitting for so long there are many things you should check before attempting to start the car or even turn the engine.. Try to move the valves by tapping on the rocker arms with a hammer, use wood between the hammer and rocker. See if all the valves will work. If you have a stuck valve and try to turn the engine, you may bend a pushrod. Oil the valve stems with penetrating oil. Remove the plugs a
  14. Critterpainter, WOW, I had a Cat 28 too. Yours is the only other one I have heard of. Mine was wide track with special "flotation" grousers. Very wide. It had an impulse mag in place of the Eisman and always started very easily with a bit of gas thru the priming cups
  15. I have owned VW's. My last (forever) was a '98 Passat - it just loved the dealership, especially after the warranty ran out. It got to 98K miles and by that time the ABS, CD changer, Remote locks, turbo oil cooler several plastic engine gizmos and radio had failed - enough! Adios. Failures had nothing to do with maintenance and driving style.
  16. The owners manual for my 1918 Buick says: "Once a year the car should get a thorough overhauling. At which time the motor, clutch, transmission, universal joint, steering gear, and axle should be taken apart. cleaned and adjusted before being reassembled. This work should be done by an experienced mechanic" They dont make them like they usta ! Thankfully. I expect that this was rarely done.
  17. That moly grease is what I meant. It spreads out pretty well and sticks. Messy as heck
  18. Larry, I think you have a good chance at success as long as the pitting is not in the area where the rubber rides. Polish the ball an mating ring out with fine sandpaper on a lathe if you can - it all helps. You get some horrible grease with the kit. Be sure you get all the surfaes coated with it - especially where the rubber rides. You will find that when shimmed properly, there will be lots of drag due to the rubber compression. Leaving the bolts a touch loose will be a big help when you go to align the ball and torque tube and spline on assembly.
  19. It is strange that the spring washer is shown on the "wrong" side of the seal. However,I think it would be best not to use the spring with the new rubber seal. There is a lot of compression of the rubber seal without the spring. The added compression with the spring installed may be too much and accelerate wear.
  20. I am reasonably sure this car was owned by Don Heineman of San Carlos, California (San Carlos is about 25 miles south of San Francisco) for a while. I dont remember how long Don owned the car. Don died a couple of years ago. I am 100% positive that Don owned a a Straker Squire of that era. I would be surprised if it was not the same one. I cant remember when Don owned his car.
  21. There is a swich of sorts in the body of that socket. It consists of a couple of contacts and 3 small balls. When you open the glove box door, the light should come on. However they can corrode and become inoperative. If you can get it apart and clean it, it will work
  22. I have used Bobs torque ball kit in my '38 Roadmaster maybe 20 years ago and it has been fine. I used one in my '38 Special about 5 years ago. No problems. Getting it shimmed correctly is everything. With the pain in the rear job it is to stop torque ball leaks, I feel it is worth every cent it might cost. Neil Morse has posted the proceedure he used on his trans here somewhere. You could search for that
  23. Question, Why do you want the cork over the rubber? I can vouch for the fact that the rubber seal kit offered by Bobs (and others) works perfectly when properly installed.
  24. Yours is a Model 10. I owned an original unrestored 1910 Model 10. The fact that it is a planetary transmission is a major point As you mention, there are several things which are not original Still a very nice automobile.
  25. There are seal pullers that involve a sort of sheet metal screw driven into the original seal to pull it out. That outer seal has a very narrou crossection and that type od puller may not work. The inner seal will mean getting into the trans and, unfortunately, that is usually the major leaker
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