DonMicheletti
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Bobs Automobilia has reprints of the nmanual https://bobsautomobilia.com/shop/literature-decals/shop-manual-all-1941-sm-41/
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Another "pretty reliable" source is '41 Shop Manual section 6-42 that agrees with Neil
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1938 Buick Series 40- Loose Propshaft to Pinion Gear
DonMicheletti replied to 1938Mike's topic in Technical
Actually, the '38 is a tight fit and pinned too on a good one and also a pain to separate -
1938 Buick Series 40- Loose Propshaft to Pinion Gear
DonMicheletti replied to 1938Mike's topic in Technical
WOW, that is crazy. I always assumed that the wear was an unusual failure and the fact that mine was welded was someones shade tree repair. -
Studebaker Light Six Engine Rebuild
DonMicheletti replied to Stude Light's topic in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
DEVCON makes metal filled epoxies that would work perfectly for this kind of repair. Can be had fro Mc Master-Carr and some bearing houses -
Studebaker Light Six Engine Rebuild
DonMicheletti replied to Stude Light's topic in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
A major portion of the problem is the aluminum exidizing and gripping the stud. I cleaned the holes on my heads and then painted them to prevent the aluminum from oxidizing. -
1938 Buick Series 40- Loose Propshaft to Pinion Gear
DonMicheletti replied to 1938Mike's topic in Technical
Sorry, I cant help. I scrapped the bad parts and converted to 3.9 gears -
1938 Buick Series 40- Loose Propshaft to Pinion Gear
DonMicheletti replied to 1938Mike's topic in Technical
One of the '38 Special differentials I disassembled, the driveshaft was welded to the pinion at the spline. When I ground the weld off and took things apart, I found the splines very badly worn. -
The oil cooler story is wrong according to some. The story I remember is that Buick used the "cooler" to actually heat the oil up to bring it to operating temp more quickly. My '31-67 didnt have one for a long time and it had no issuies. Also, Packard used them and I expect others did too.
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These engines can reslly build up a lot of crap at the rear of the block. To really clean the cooling system you have to knock the core plugs out and clean the water passages.
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Carolina Roadmasters: Collect all 4 - '38 Roadmaster Model 87
DonMicheletti replied to 38Buick 80C's topic in Me and My Buick
With a lirtle practice, striping with a striping brush isnt that difficult. I did both my cars using one of the front hubs to spin the wheel as I applied the stripe. I did one stripe at a time and let it dry, that way if I screwed up the next stripe, I could wipe it off wiothout ruining the prior stripe. Without the rings and stripes, the blackwalls look pretty blah. -
Can't keep the engine gasses from running me out of the cab
DonMicheletti replied to Skidplate's topic in Buick - Pre War
Key to the rocker stanchion bolts not leaking is thorough cleaning of the bolt holes. I use a round wire brush, solvent and a an electric drill to clesn them before installing the bolt with a sealant -
1924 Buick 24-6-41 Starter will not spin when pedal depressed
DonMicheletti replied to Ken Manzer's topic in Technical
The starting mechnism is pretty simple. But, does the gennerator "motor" when tou turn the ignition on? The generator must be energised before the enigine will crank -
Where are you going to tap into the oil system for the filter? I did mine tapping into the oil cooler line (photo). This was a long time ago and the filter parts came from a '56 Buick.
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1931 buick 90 series instrument dash bezel
DonMicheletti replied to arcticbuicks's topic in Technical
It one of the very few things shatred between the different series ! -
1931 buick 90 series instrument dash bezel
DonMicheletti replied to arcticbuicks's topic in Technical
I believe all series '31's have the same dash bezel. '31 only. -
1942 buick special transmission shifting problems
DonMicheletti replied to Has42b4d's topic in Technical
With the engine off: Start by disconnecting the linkage. Move the levers on the trans and see if it shifts into all the gears Move the steering column lever and see if it moves freely in all directions. This should tell you if the problem is with the linkage or transmission. Either one not working right will be a real problem. Do get a manual - it will tell you much. -
I would replace them with a circlip. I never had any issues with my '31-60 points
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Great thread, but I feel the approach is wrong. Everyone is comparing cars to those which came later. What should be considered is what came before. My '10 Buick was noisy, rode rough and was maxed out at about 35 mph. However, I'd bet that the original owner was "driving" a horse before the Buick. And the Buick would have been a heck of improvement (maybe not the noise). Horse lovers will argue.
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My "31 was definitely original - this was back in the early 1960's. The car was still in daily use when I bought ti. Of course, Buick could have changer the next year. and it was a different series engine. Rebabbiting isnt that hard.
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I dont think you can get the cam out without removing the roller followers first.
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My '31 60 series had poured babbit, steel back bearings. I repoured the babbit myself and then had them align reamed after installation in the block. I'd be surprised if the'32's were not the same originally.
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Tricks on Measuring Manifold Vacuum - 1940's Straight Eight
DonMicheletti replied to JimH56's topic in Buick - Pre War
Some Specials did come with the combination vacuum gasoline pump -
If the above does not work. You can knock it out of the 2 gears by using a brass or aluminum rod against the sliding gear and hit the rod with a heavy hammer to knock out of one of the gears. No chance of harming anything