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Everything posted by DonMicheletti

  1. There are lots of reproduction parts for the '38 Special Buick. That makes it m easy, but not cheap, to fix and replace things. There are also several good suppliers. The Buicks are great cars, but like all cars, they have their quirks. They were great when new and, if things are in good condition, they still are. But I am biased, I have two '38's
  2. Hastings sells by size. I think they even have charts on their site.
  3. To me, the wild gage oscillation says gage problem. An engine couldnt change temperature that quickly - unless,maybe, the water is low.
  4. Seedee, You are right about finding someone to do a proper job. One of the problem of all early automatic transmission cars. At least the Hydromatic was popular and used for a long time on many other makes.
  5. One other thing. If the body ground strap is missing or bad, the capilary tube wants to supply that ground and give very erratic reading. I have seen this happen before.
  6. The last rocker arm stanchion "bolt" on the distributor side of the engine is actually a stud. The stud hole is tapped through to the water jacket directly above the temp sensor bulb. If you remove the stud you have access to the water side of the bulb and you can manipulate the bulb through the hole to loosen it. It still can be a challenge. Be sure to use a sealant when replacing the stud or you will get water in the oil.
  7. Bloo, The adjustment was my first thought, however Neil had already replaced the rubber boot when he brought the starter down so we didnt know the adjustments original position. So we went ahead with the job. You may be right about the contact errosion - I never gave it a thought.
  8. On the transmission. There is a very good chance that the trans will fail shortly if used on a newly rebuilt engine. All the seals in the transmission are just as old and tired, due to age, as everything else. They are likely to fail. You would be wise to bite the bullet and have the tran$mi$$ion rebuilt too. All the early Olds engines are virtually identical in basic design.
  9. Dropping a tank to have to fix a plugged filter caused by coarse contaminants is a lot of work. Fixing the root cause of the poroblem is the correct answer. A downstream, easily serviced filter, is the answer. After about 65 years of driving all kinds of stuff. I have never had a starvation or contaminant problem due to stuff (some as old as from 1908) in the tank. I guess I'm lucky.
  10. I have never seen a tank filer or screen in an old Buick. Personally, I dont like the idea of an in tank filter. If it plugs you have to drop the tank to clean it and that is a PITA. Plus, if it does plug you have other more serious issues.
  11. Another way used to clean carbon was to slowly "sift" rice hulls down the carb while the engine was running fast. I knew of a guy who killed his engine by feeding too fast. Always sounded like a bad idea to me.
  12. With all the crap on the rockers, I certainly would drop the pan too. Very likely you'll find a similar mess. Cheap insurance.
  13. My '38 Roadmasters flywheel was on wrong and the timing marks were way off. I ended up just timing it by ear until I did a clutch job and fixed that issue then. When I was young we didnt have any of that "fancy" timing light stuff - we timed by ear. It actually works very well if you know what you are doing. Time By ear: After running, advance the distributor until the engine pings under load, then retard until it doesnt. Or, advance until it pings under load and then retard until it doesnt.
  14. If the bushing was bad, it certainly could let more oil migrate into the ball area making sealing more difficult. However the most imprtant issue is the condition of the ball surfaces where the rubber seal rides. They have to be in good condition and not galled, Again, the shimming is important too.
  15. Unbolting the flange (4 bolts) and the trans and rear end will separate. Several suppliers have seal kits for the torque ball, but the mating surfaces must be in good condition. Often they are not
  16. I found the original 1917 California license tag behind the door upholstery when I was having the car re-upholstered. This tag attached to the porcelain blue and white plates used for several years. My car is a 1918 Buick 6 cylinder touring built in late 1917.
  17. Judicious use of a hydraulic press will solve your bumper bracket problem. But, boy, are they tough That is what I had to do on my '38 Special,
  18. At the end of the day. the stick should be spring loaded toward the second / third position
  19. I had the fun experience of having one of the springs end up inside the trans. I had to disassemble the trans to get it out. Fortunately that was before the rear end was in.
  20. Be carefull when you take that apart. It is very easy for the springs to wind up inside the transmission
  21. Sorry yto hear that Terry. What was the engines symptoms?
  22. In my 1918's "REFERENCE BOOK", Buick referrs to the tickler as a "FLUSHER"
  23. Fuel in the carb is meaningless unless it gets to the cylinder...choke the heck out of it. It is almost impossible to flood.
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