DonMicheletti

Often the machines dont have to be fancy to get the job done

Mike C5 and Dave, The South Bend is a Hreavy 10" tool room, I also have a 15" lathe and Bridgeport. Yes finding one in at least fair shape is key. However many can be found at very reasonable prices. That was the case with my machines, bought from shops going out of business. Also, where I went to high school, I could take machine shop as an elective - and I did for the 4 years. The shop classes were taught as if you were going to become a machinist, as some did. So I really learned how to use the machines correctly. However my first machine was a South Bend 16" x 6' built in 1912 and was a converted overhead belt drive machine that was totally shot - it cost me $100. I learned how to work with the slop and I even machined the babbited connecting rods that I poured myself for the 1931 Buick I was restoring. I really like the machining challenges needed to keep the really old stuff going.

I agree with Keiser31. Going back, after assembly, to paint the parts would be too expensive and time consumnig.

This is probably the most useful tool I have for those "unobtanium" parts

My uncle had a transmission shop back in the 1960's. He did a lot of Dynaflows. Later converters had an "O" ring instead of the paper gasket. I would machine a grove in the old converters to take the newer "O" ring. More reliable.

Shootey, You dont need a puller like that on a '41 Buick

My son and the 1918 E-45 now and then (different dog). 40+ years apart

You do have a generator. To get it generating you have to polarize it. The manual should explain this process where you apply a short positive charge to the F (field) coil. Do check the manual

I rebuilt the engine when I restored the car. The pistons were replaced then. Yes, the engine was balanced. There is a ton of rotating mass.

I believe there are pins that limit the rotation of the barrel in each direction The choke "pointer" should be straight up when the barrel of the choke is at the mid point of the rotation limits. Does that make sense?

While it has been years since I owned my '31 8-67 Buick, it had replacement aluminum pistons and you couldnt tell when it was running it was so vibration free. I do not remember the piston manufacturer.

Great. You are making progress...It can do it

You cant compare aa 34 Buick to a 40. They are different animals

I agree with Ben

I had the same thing happen with my '38 Buick Special on start up after a total rebuild. A whack with the handle of a screwdriver "fixed" it.

Clipperfan, Changing the rear end ratio or adding an overdrive are not trivial nor inexpensive jobs, even if you can find a set of lower ratio gears. Get the low hanging fruit first. Something basic is wrong with the engine.

A Special should be capable of going well over 60mph. I am not saying that it good (my 1918 will actually do 60) but it should.. If at full throttle it wont make 60 there are a myriad of things that can contribute - many mentioned here. One of the crazy things about these engines is that the flywheel can be put on wrong, if it was removed for some reason. If so, the timing mark will be in the wrong location and be worthless. This is not an uncommon problem. Even if it is in the right place it is a bear to see where that view port is. I would start with establishing proper timing.

I have no idea of how much distortion is too much. Mine was .015" and wouldnt work. I think a dial caliper would work fine. I think the flexibility of the "flapper" seal is most important.

One important thing to check is the dimensions of the vacuum chamber. They tend to be larger at the center pivot than at the ends. If that is so, the motor will not work and may not be able to be repaired

On the bolt / stud Ben mentions. If you do remove it be sure to use at thread sealant on the bolt when you install it or you may get water leakage past the threads ending up with water in the oil.

If it does everything it should, you are OK. An easy way to see where the terminals are connected inside is to remove the cap from the field coil and brush end and see just where things go. It would be interesting to see what you find.

Peter, Exactly what Morgan and I were trying to say. Those are great wiring diagrams and photos. The "E" series cars have a different combination switch than the later cars, but accomplish the same thing

Another photo taken further down the road showing where that wire goes to the field coil

Mine is like Morgans with the wire coming out of the S/G to the coil terminal - no terminal at the S/G. I have seen others that way too (photo of original one I rebuilt - different exit location too))

That terminal is on th wiring diagram but hard to decypher. It is a lead to the ignition coil that goes through the "shunt field". Is a lead to/from the coil. You'll see two wires to the coil. One from the S/G (your mystery terminal) the other from th combination switch, both terminating at the coil. Confusing?