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About Str8-8-Dave

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  1. Get friendly with an outfit called Inline Tube. They will likely have a complete set of reproduction brake lines for your car in your choice of galvanized steel or stainless. When I played with 60's cars (1968 Pontiac GTO, 1963 Dodge Polara, 1963 Dodge 330 Post Max Wedge) I always replaced the brake lines. Today I am messing with cars that have rod/cable operated mechanical brakes so haven't swapped any brake lines out lately but they do rust from inside out and flex hoses rot and look perfect until they burst. Dave
  2. Make sure you look at my final version of this post as I was still editing when you replied. Have a good holiday and be safe Dave
  3. Hi Marquette Flyer; The grease caps you have pictured ARE NOT 1931 caps, the 31's look like a chef's hat sitting on their open ends. You have to be careful with measurements though as there are some caps out there that look just like the 31 caps but are too big. There are also caps for later cars, 1932 and later that have a different style B embossed on them and they won't fit your hubs either. Here are some pictures with measurements of the 1931 caps and ones that are the same style but too large which I learned about the hard way by buying the wrong ones for my 31 8-66S just by looking at the pictures and not knowing then that there were same style wrong size caps out there that should help. Dave These are for 1930 or earlier cars, not 1931
  4. Edinmass- Now your comment is very interesting- will have me trying to find pictures of other 31 Buicks with rumble lids that don't have seals. I would say the design of my car supports what you said regarding channels to divert water from the front edge down the sides of the openings. The lid flange sticks down into the troughs and across the front trough there is a forward facing 1/2" wide flange that would prevent water from spilling over the rear edge of the trough. What I do not have any evidence of is overboard drain tubes at the end of the side troughs but there are a rectangular holes through the rumble compartment floor that could be drain holes. Did any of the Cadillac cars you had have rumble lids sans seals? I'd love to have a picture of such an arrangement, especially overboard tubes... Thanks a ton for this post... Dave This is a "post script" commentary. The way I got started trying to incorporate seals on my rumble lid was largely due to the fact Dave39MD's rumble seat lid has what appear to be simple rectangular section sold seals on the sides and front of his rumble lid which may have led me to an incorrect conclusion that ALL 31 8-66S cars are supposed have rumble lid seals. In retrospect that may have ben a bad assumption on my part. My car is an early job number compared to Dave's and has some obvious differences due to Buick and Fisher Body running changes. My car's bumpers for instance are what I would characterize as carryover 1930 twin bar bumpers where Dave39MD's car has single bar bumpers which may have been implemented late in the model run to exhaust 2 bar bumper stock in anticipation of the 1932 models that all had single bar bumpers. I read in Automobile Quarterly's good book called The Buick that early cars had bronze camshaft bearings which had a high failure rate so Buick went to babbited cam bearings as a running change, then had to repair cars already delivered to customers that experienced cam bearing failure. It occurs to me now that the rumble lid seal may have been added by the factory late in the model run which would explain how Dave39MD's car could be perfectly correct to have rumble lid seals and my car to be perfectly correct without rumble lid seals...
  5. This is meant to be constructive criticism based on my shopping experience with both Steele Rubber and Restoration Specialties with a comment on Bob's added. When you look at the list of "generic" rubber profiles on the Steele website there are many profiles to choose from all priced by the foot and accompanied by a picture of the item and an engineering drawing of the dimensions like the one I included in my first post. That makes selecting likely candidates for a seal in the absence of year/make/model-specific product at least doable, I filled out a survey and stated it would be nice to have even more engineering specifications such as PSI crush rates and recommended range of deflection. The Restorations Specialties extrusions I looked at showed the shape of the profile but lacked any dimensions making it a guessing game as to size. Some items were priced by the foot and others you had to take a predetermined length which may have been more then the amount required making the Restoration Specialties product more expensive if you picked a fixed length item and it is more than required. Also some items came up as year/make/model specific rather than "generic" so the items are all missed together. Bottom line is I found the Steele Rubber items described in much better detail and , generic extrusions segregated from car specific items and all priced by the foot. I also find their shipping charges much better than Bob's who charge flat-rates based on price of order.
  6. Mark- Thanks again for your suggestion and I will try what you suggest. I'm also going to remove all of the seals and place a bead of modelling clay covered with wax paper along the length of the sealing edges of the opening,, remove the shims from the latch and reinstall the shim under the striker and close the lid carefully. If the wax paper does it's job when I open the lid I should have an idea of how much clearance there is from the lid to the sealing edges of the rumble opening. That should help me understand if this is just a clearance issue.
  7. Hi Mark and thanks for the response. I am not sure what there is to gain by poking holes in the chambers when they are open all the way through the length of the seals and are vented out the bottom of the side seals. I tried getting up on the rear bumper of the car and applying weight or downward force to see if the seals would settle and allow the latch to engage with no luck. The seal across the width of the lid is the likely culprit, if that seal is left off and side seals remain the lid will close with a moderate slam with the shim under the striker and no spacers between the latch mechanism and the lid. Not sure if that is a clearance difference or a difference in where the seals land on the metal edges of the opening.
  8. Hi to all; I'm really stuck trying to come up with seals that are thick enough to be useful and compress-able enough to let the lid close when it is aligned correctly. I started with 1/2" thick by 3/4" wide solid closed cell foam from Bob's Automobilia that was listed as trunk and rumble lid seal and with a 1/4" thick shim spacer between the striker and the wood sill it screws to. The shim business along with correctly adjusted corner bumpers with no seal seemed t be perfect, lid height was good all over and it closed and latched under it's own weight with a nice clunk. Once the 2 side seals and front edge seal were installed it would not latch no matter how hard you slammed it. I removed the shim and it still would not latch, the lock catch cannot get to the slotted opening in the striker. Next I put the shim back in and ordered a 2 chamber hollow deck lid seal product from Steele Rubber. With side seals in place and no front edge seal I could get the lid to latch with the shim in place. Once I added the cross-lid front edge seal, no way would it close. Then I added 1/8" spacers between the latch and the lid woodwork, no go. Finally I removed the shim and left the 1/8" spacers under the lock and it reluctantly closes with a lot of effort and the height of the lid compared to the opening is awful. Besides the lid now being high the two front lid bumpers run out of adjustment without touching the wood on the rumble lid so they are useless. I have talked to Dave39MD and have pictures of his original lid and seal and while it is a solid foam seal it is apparently very soft and you can see in the picture below it lands on the metal seal edges of the opening and has taken a set, particularly in the corners. Other pictures are of my lid before the seal with the striker shim in place which produced the ideal alignment, then with the current 2 chamber hollow seal, no striker shim and 1/8" spacers between the latch mechanism and the lid wood at the 4 mounting screw locations. Does anyone have experience with an obstinate lid seal and a suggestion for a really soft compliant seal material I can use that will allow me to get the rumble lid to close with my striker shim in place for good alignment? Thanks in advance Dave This is a picture of Dave39MD's unrestored original car. If you look closely at the rumble lid seal it has taken a set where it lands on the sheet metal seal edges of the opening . This is how my lid alignment looked before seal installation trials began with the corners of the lid resting on the corner bumpers in the lid opening and with a 1/4" shim between the striker and the body sill. This was pretty acceptable alignment with the skin of the lid flush with the front deck sheet metal and it closed with a nice clunk under it's own weight coming to rest on the corner bumpers. This is the bottom side of the striker with a 1/4" shim under it to lower the striker to hold the lid on the corner bumpers. This is one of the corner bumpers used to support the lid when closed and allow levelling from side to side when the lid latch engages. This is the Steele Rubber profile I am working with now. The Bob's seals were solid closed cell foam 1/2" thick x 3/4" wide. The Bob's seals were totally unusable so I moved onto the Steele Rubber seal with it's 2 open chambers which allow the seal to collapse a lot while maintaining a high enough profile to positively seal against the sealing surfaces of the rumble lid opening. To get the latch to engage the striker I had to remove the striker shim from the latch striker and add 1/8" spacers between the latch mechanism and the wood frame of the rumble lid to get the latch to engage the striker. Now the lid sits way too high and the corner bumpers can not be adjusted high enough to level the lid from side to side.
  9. Sounds like I have 3 books to look for. Thanks to all for the tips... Dave
  10. Putting an electric pump on one of these older cars has a big advantage for preventing vapor lock and filling an empty float bowl so you don't have to beat up the starter to get the mechanical pump to fill the bowl to get the engine started. Having done this on antique boats there are a couple of considerations. If you wire the pump to run while the ignition is on you could be creating an oil dilution issue if the fuel pump diaphragm leaks through and the car will run happily because the electric pump can keep up with both the combustion fuel demands AND the leakage, I.E. the first you know there is a fuel pump diaphragm issue may be to the detriment to all that rotating machinery in the basement of the engine, not good. The other concern is if the float valve can't contain the pressure from the electric pump you have a flooding and fire hazard issue. If you wire with a momentary switch that will minimize the issues stated above but may not eliminate them. Mechanical fuel pumps often still run the car while leaking fuel into the oil and if the float valve can't close appropriately when the electric pump is being operated by the momentary switch it can still result in flooding. The other problem with the momentary switch arrangement is the electric pump is still in the fuel line back at the gas tank when you shut it off and it has some flow restriction that may result in fuel starvation at some engine loads even if it will run the car at curb idle or low speeds. I installed a Carter electric pump on my 1965 Chris Craft Sea Skiff which had it's original Chris Craft converted solid lifter Chevrolet 327 and the stock Carter AFB carburetor. I went the momentary route on the wiring and always started the engine with engine hatch open so I could hear the Carter pup start to labor and slow when the carburetor bowl filled and the float valve closed dead-heading the electric pump. I went from not knowing from one launch to the next whether the battery and starter would last long enough to get me started at the launch ramp to 15 seconds with the electric pump before the starter was engaged, then VRROOOM. It was all good up to about 2800rpm with the Carter pump switched off but if I wanted to go fast I had to switch it back on because the engine was stumbling for lack of fuel. This link is a Woody Boater article on the boat I restored and sold to the then president of the Antique Classic Boat Society. He drove from NJ to fetch it home from my place in Port Huron, MI. The ACBS was at the time pretty exclusively wood boats only but the clubs began to realize a demographic shift from the old guys like me who grew up around wood boats to a newer generation that grew up with fiberglass and wanted in on the fun. The Sea Skiff I restored was hull #12 of 80 1965-67 Chris Craft Sea Skiffs made of fiberglass in the old Cortland NY Thompson Boat factory when Chris Craft was making the switch to fiberglass.
  11. Dave39MD brought up a good point, he uses ethanol free unleaded gas. While regular unleaded is cheaper, easier to find and is higher octane than the best fuels of the 30's it has ethanol alcohol in it, 10% or possibly more and it absorbs water like crazy in our vented fuel systems and evaporates much faster than ethanol premium gas does. Ethanol free fuel may help. I stopped using ethanol fuels in my car because I also noticed 2 things, one, the fuel turns from nearly clear with a yellow cast to maple syrup dark brown in the glass sediment bowl on the fuel pump in a matter of days and when I started the car there was water dripping from the manifold to heat riser pipe. The water business stopped when I switched to Shell premium form a local station because it is ethanol free. I'm a stubborn old guy that has not blocked off my heat riser, it is complete and it works so I am particularly interested in keeping the condensate to a minimum to avoid rust. I'm sure at some point I will wind up blocking off my heat riser but being fascinated with mechanical oddities and having healthy enough parts on my car I was able to research and figure out how all that linkage is supposed to work and made up a heat riser system that works for now at least.
  12. I have a 31 8-66S . The marvel carburetor has a vented bowl and when you shut the car off, especially if it's hot, it's gonna evaporate the fuel out of the bowl. I've been avoiding that so far because my car is not ready for the road so instead of putting gallons of gas in the original tank that I know will become gallons of stale gas with lots of water in it I've been running my car on a small outboard tank with a rubber squeeze primer bulb. The only ways of avoiding this problem if the car is going to sit for more than a few hours is either an electric fuel pump or filling the bowl with fuel from a plastic squeeze bottle. I've been think of clever ways to use the latter and adding fuel to the bowl right thru the vent hole in the bowl cover so I don't have another electric gizmo on the car or have to take the bowl cover off. Our cars do have a drain tube that screws into the bottom of the air filter and drains fuel overboard next to the road draft tube to take care of fuel that boils out of the carb and floods the air horn of the carburetor.
  13. The original Klaxon K-18 horn on my 31 Buick has a condenser inside the cover to prevent field coil point arcing. I'm sure the condenser is deader than a doornail and the horn operates erratically even after cleaning the points and adjusting the gap, likely because they arc like crazy. Has anyone had experience with these, know what the MFD value of the condenser might be or what to get to replace the condenser on one of these common early GM horns?
  14. Bel-Ray fork oil is nice to rubber seals. I'm using 10W in y 31 Buick Delco Lovejoys. I did talk to Apple Hydraulics and they recommended 15W.