Str8-8-Dave

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  1. It's definitely an optical illusion. Those holes are exactly 180 degrees apart and equidistant to shaft center. Weights do go on right way in either hole but when you assemble the breaker cam rotor with the pin in the other hole the amount of advance travel is greatly reduced because the other hole is probably 2/3 the size of the hole I chose to assemble the pin into.
  2. I got my car running recently but the one recurrent problem is carburetor flooding. Float valve is in excellent condition but float appears to have lost some of it's buoyancy. I'd prefer to avoid the nitrophyl plastic floats that Bob's sells, I had bad experiences with nitrophyl floats becoming saturated with fuel and sinking including a fire. I'd like to either make another cork float or find a brass float. Does anyone know of a source for a new cork float or brass float? If I make one what kind of fuel proof sealer could I used to seal it after I make it?
  3. So I guess I was in too much of a hurry while overhauling a model 660-E Delco Remy distributor which is used on 60/80/90 series 31 Buick straight 8s. When I took the weights and springs off the mechanical advance and then removed the breaker cam I didn't realize there were 2 different size holes in the base plate on the distributor shaft that an advance limit pin on the bottom of the breaker cam rotor can be assembled into which would result in a difference of how much mechanical advance is built into the distributor. The larger hole had the number 32 stamped near it, the smaller had the number 81 stamped near it. The Specs and Adjustments manual explains the initial advance is 11-1/2 degrees BTDC and the mechanical advance then puts in another 20-1/2 degrees for a total of 34 degrees of advance when the engine is running fast enough to use fully advanced spark. Playing with the base plate and the cam rotor I estimated when the pin is inserted into the larger hole the breaker cam rotor can be rotated around 10-11 degrees which, since the distributor runs 1/2 crank speed, actually provides 20-22 degrees of mechanical advance. Does anyone actually know which of the 2 holes, the larger or smaller hole, the advance limit pin should be assembled into? Thanks in advance... literally... Dave
  4. I went through a similar process to put a windshield in my 31 8-66S Special Coupe. For cars before 1930 you will probably have to find a glass supplier to work with and get the glass custom cut. For flat glass windshields starting with 1930 for Buick you might want to consider The Glass Man- ClassicFlatGlass.com in Placerville, CA http://www.classicflatglass.com/Index.aspx They have complete listings of flat glass for Buick starting with 1930. They make the glass from original drawings. They will either mark your glass with the currently acceptable safety glass marking or if you sign a waiver will produce the glass without the markings but give you a receipt stating it is safety glass which is the only kind of glass they do. They were cheap- windshield shipped to my door in an engineered protective cardboard box in about 3wks and for less than $250. I then found a bargain closeout on the steel frame for my windshield which is framed in 1/2" CR Laurence steel channel and ordered glazing tape from Bob Drake, Bob's and Steele had the rubber base gasket. I used Steele glass run for the sides which is available in a width that will accommodate the CRL steel frame channel. I went from a car with no windshield or seals and regulator board with a broken regulator to a car which now has a windshield that cranks up easily for my effort.
  5. And take your bill of sale. If it works like it did here in Michigan when I went to transfer an existing Illinois title from seller to get a Michigan title in my name I had to wait a few days while our secretary of state contacted the Illinois DMV to request a National Vehicle Title Information System (NVTIS) search of the Illinois title and the VIN number in your case, just the VIN number, which is THE database for older cars that your local DMV cannot access in their systems. It would be really nice if you could get a copy of whatever their report shows, might give clues to ownership over time, but with today's privacy laws that is not likely.
  6. Are you trying to bush the small end of the rod or the pistons? Buick used "semi floating" wrist pins in 31, meaning the wrist pin pivots at the piston only, the wrist pin has a relief machined across it's width on the center of it's length and small end of rod has a clamp bolt that passes thru the relief to positively clamp the pin to the rod and prevent it from coming out of the side of the piston and scoring the cylinder wall. There are no circlips in the original pistons to retain the wrist pin, they weren't needed. If during the cars life someone replaced some or all of the pistons the replacements may have had larger pins and small ends of rods may have been bored out to accept them, I had a 31 80 series car that had 6 original iron pistons and 2 aluminum pistons that had oversize pins. The small ends of the 2 rods had been bored to accept the larger pins. I installed 8 new pistons with standard size pins and had the small ends of the 2 rods welded up and resized to original dimensions. Putting a bushing in the small end of the rod is probably not a good idea, either find a couple of rods or have yours welded up and machined back to size on a Bridgeport mill by a reputable machine shop. If your bushing problem is with the pistons and you are using the original iron pistons that's a machine shop job to have them re-bushed. I'm not sure who will have aluminum replacements, the source used to be Egge Machine and they have babbiting services. https://egge.com/ Keep us posted on what you decide to do... Dave
  7. 1931 Buick distributors are dual point type. Standard Motor Products part number for one of the breaker point sets is DR-1823. Does anyone have an old Standard Motor ignition parts listing with the part number for the other point set? What about Blue Streak or Delco part numbers for both point sets? Thanks for any assistance Dave
  8. Here are some additional pictures and part dimensions for the hinge and pivot pin brackets. To reiterate, the parts I need are the 2 pivot pin brackets shown in picture 1 of this post and picture 3 of the original post but if you have a complete hinge, just the housing with the pivot brackets still screwed in place or the door half of the hinge with pivot brackets staked on I will take any of those combinations or just the pivot pin brackets. Picture 1: Pivot pin offset from top surface of bracket to pin center = 1-1/16" Picture 2: Hinge housing height = 1-3/8" Picture 3: Hinge housing long side = 3-1/2" Picture 4: Hinge housing narrow side = 1-1/2" Picture 5: Hinge door bracket long side = 2-5/8" Picture 6: Hinge door bracket narrow side = 1-5/16"
  9. Here are some additional pictures and part dimensions for the hinge and pivot pin brackets. To reiterate, the parts I need are the 2 pivot pin brackets shown in picture 1 of this post and picture 3 of the original post but if you have a complete hinge, just the housing with the pivot brackets still screwed in place or the door half of the hinge with pivot brackets staked on I will take any of those combinations or just the pivot pin brackets. Picture 1: Pivot pin offset from top surface of bracket to pin center = 1-1/16" Picture 2: Hinge housing height = 1-3/8" Picture 3: Hinge housing long side = 3-1/2" Picture 4: Hinge housing narrow side = 1-1/2" Picture 5: Hinge door bracket long side = 2-5/8" Picture 6: Hinge door bracket narrow side = 1-5/16"
  10. Here are some additional pictures and part dimensions for the hinge and pivot pin brackets. To reiterate, the parts I need are the 2 pivot pin brackets shown in picture 1 of this post and picture 3 of the original post but if you have a complete hinge, just the housing with the pivot brackets still screwed in place or the door half of the hinge with pivot brackets staked on I will take any of those combinations or just the pivot pin brackets. Picture 1: Pivot pin offset from top surface of bracket to pin center = 1-1/16" Picture 2: Hinge housing height = 1-3/8" Picture 3: Hinge housing long side = 3-1/2" Picture 4: Hinge housing narrow side = 1-1/2" Picture 5: Hinge door bracket long side = 2-5/8" Picture 6: Hinge door bracket narrow side = 1-5/16"
  11. Hi and thanks for your response. I don't believe the hinge you have is the same and more importantly I don't think it has the 2 piece pivot pin bracket shown in picture 3 of my post, it looks like the pivot pin bracket on your hinge is made in one piece. The part of your hinge that mounts on the door post is 2-1/2" where mine is 3-1/2". I should probably mark up a picture with some dimensions on it to clarify. Again- thanks for your response. Dave
  12. I'm looking for a set of hinge pivot pin brackets that the door hinge pivots from for my 1931 Buick model 8-66S special coupe. These parts are actually staked to the pivot pin so that the door half of the hinge, hinge pin and these brackets were permanently assembled, then loaded into and screwed to the housing that attaches to the door post in the car. I'm including pictures of a complete hinge (picture 1) a housing with the pivots attached without the door part of the hinge because the hinge pin was broken off at the staking point (picture 2) and just the pivot brackets (picture 3) a 4th possibility (not pictured) would be the door portion of the hinge and the pivot brackets staked together without the housing. I will take any of the possible combinations as long as I get the 2 pivot pin brackets shown in picture 3. I have one complete functional hinge and all the parts to make the other except the hinge pivot pin brackets in picture 3. Thanks! Dave Krugler BCA #20435 Port Huron, MI
  13. I'm looking for a set of hinge pivot pin brackets that the door hinge pivots from for my 1931 Buick model 8-66S special coupe. These parts are actually staked to the pivot pin so that the door half of the hinge, hinge pin and these brackets were permanently assembled, then loaded into and screwed to the housing that attaches to the door post in the car. I'm including pictures of a complete hinge (picture 1) a housing with the pivots attached without the door part of the hinge because the hinge pin was broken off at the staking point (picture 2) and just the pivot brackets (picture 3) a 4th possibility (not pictured) would be the door portion of the hinge and the pivot brackets staked together without the housing. I will take any of the possible combinations as long as I get the 2 pivot pin brackets shown in picture 3. I have one complete functional hinge and all the parts to make the other except the hinge pivot pin brackets in picture 3. Thanks! Dave Krugler BCA #20435 Port Huron, MI
  14. I'm looking for a set of hinge pivot pin brackets that the door hinge pivots from for my 1931 Buick model 8-66S special coupe. These parts are actually staked to the pivot pin so that the door half of the hinge, hinge pin and these brackets were permanently assembled, then loaded into and screwed to the housing that attaches to the door post in the car. I'm including pictures of a complete hinge (picture 1) a housing with the pivots attached without the door part of the hinge because the hinge pin was broken off at the staking point (picture 2) and just the pivot brackets (picture 3) a 4th possibility (not pictured) would be the door portion of the hinge and the pivot brackets staked together without the housing. I will take any of the possible combinations as long as I get the 2 pivot pin brackets shown in picture 3. I have one complete functional hinge and all the parts to make the other except the hinge pivot pin brackets in picture 3. Thanks! Dave Krugler BCA #20435 Port Huron, MI
  15. So here's what finally fixed the window that wouldn't... I tore this door all apart again this morning BEFORE breakfast. A long time ago I bought enough 1/4" glass run to do this whole car from Bob's who got it from Steele Rubber. I used some wider stuff designed for 1/4" glass with frame which makes it closer to 5/8" for the vertical glass run for my windshield installation and it works perfect. It is the same style as the 1/4" glass run and is also made by Steele. Today I tore out the brand X glass run and the shim strips. I wasn't sure how the new stuff would fit the metal glass run retainer channels in the lower door so I cut a piece a couple inches long to try and lo and behold it fit the steel retainer channel much better than the brand X stuff. With the brand X I had to force the felt into the retainer channel a little at a time with a putty knife. I spent a lot of time trying to make sure it was correctly seated in that metal channel so it would not collapse and pinch the glass. When I pulled it out of the car I noticed the previous restorer had trimmed one leg off the base of the rubber substrate to aid in installing it in the metal channel in the lower door. The new stuff just snapped in, no trimming, no putty knife persuasion. I cut lengths of the new stuff, installed it in the metal retainer channels in the lower door, put the regulator board back on, installed the window and garnishes and it's like having power windows, no sticky operation, no cocking, nice smooth operation. I took picture of a couple of samples of what I took out of the window and what I put back in it. Notice that they are entirely different manufacturing exercises, the brand X on the left has cloth felt formed over rubber channel and cemented on, where the Steele Rubber stuff on the right has the flocking molded integrally with the rubber channel substrate which makes it obviously, dimensionally more stable, and accurate. In the way of explaining why I didn't just change out the glass run in the right door the left door is built up with the brand X stuff and it works perfectly. I will likely tear it out anyway because it does not look the same as the Steele Rubber glass run in the passenger door. After this is all done I have the rear window to deal with. Thanks to Pete and Bob for your suggestions... Dave