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Str8-8-Dave

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Everything posted by Str8-8-Dave

  1. I absolutely try to rescue as many pieces of original hardware as I can. One of the worst transgressions as far as I am concerned is finding a bunch of phillips head screws on a car that never had any. My current project, 1931 Buick, has a lot of old style bolts and lots of square nuts. Probably the worst violation I have on my car is all the stainless 1/4-20 by 3/4" bolts with hex nuts on fender attachments and running board aprons that went on while installing fender welt. The correct fasteners there would more likely have been slotted screws like I used to attach the rear fenders to the gas tank shield. I know that hardware is the correct style because I copied the hardware used on Dave Dunton's original 31 car. I also took the trouble of tracking down oval fender washers which are at least style correct, Buick used them to attach the rear fenders to the body. Another dirty trick I used was to file markings off stainless bolt heads on high vis items and polished the stainless to look like chrome. I bought 50 sets of 1/4-20 x 3/4 bolts with nuts, locks and flats from Bolt Depot to fasten fenders and running board aprons while installing fender welt. The bolts probably should have been slotted screws. Dave Dunton sent a picture of his car's fender to gas tank attaching hardware and a ton of welt pictures. I think I did a pretty good job on the welt installation and I know the slotted screws are correct style for the fender to gas tank shield. I tracked down some pretty good quality oval fender washers like those used by Buick from Moss Motors of all places. They specialize in Brit cars and Jaguar uses this style fender washer. I filed markings off and polished the heads of the bumper bar clamp bolts to the left of the repro Guide turn signal lamp in this picture.
  2. Harry- thanks for this. Dave Dunton says he thinks you are right. There is a trim around the door panel on his unrestored original 1931 Buick 8-66S but he says it is not windlace. It is just a trim to frame in the door panel, I'm guessing like 1/4" lip cord type stuff. Here is a picture of his passenger door. It clearly has some kind of trim around it but I may have been trying to go too big.
  3. I decided I would try to make my own door panels for my 1931 Buick 8-66S. The panels are pretty simple boarded trim parts with padding between the cardboard and faux mohair fabric. I was hesitant because the panels have decorative stitching required with a curved path for the stitching across the top of the panel below the garnish molding. My Juki sewing machine is a straight line machine and I didn't know if it could be made to make the curve, but it went pretty well. I got the cardboard panel cut to the recommended size from the Fisher Body Service Manual, cut foam and cloth, temporarily taped the edges of the cloth to the cardboard and sewed the decorative pattern. Then I installed nail tabs I bought from CARS and wrapped the fabric around the edges and contact cemented the material to the back of the cardboard. Since the nails were already in place on the panel I decided to attach the lip flanges of the 3/8" windlace I had to the nails and install the door panel and windlace as a unit. After all that was done my door, which closed perfectly before I started, would not shut because the windlace was dragging on the lock pillar. NUTS! I tore the panel and windlace back off, pulled the glued material loose on the back of the cardboard and trimmed 1/4" of cardboard off the hinge side, lock side and bottom of the the door panel. This time I preinstalled the windlace on the door being careful to keep it from overhanging the edge of the door. Now the door closes almost as good as it did without the panel and windlace installed. 2 problems now are 1: The 3/8" windlace stitched over solid foam core doesn't lend itself to making accurate corner turns. 2: The windlace I special ordered is not even a close color match to that already installed in the car by the previous owner's restoration shop. I have a few pieces of the original windlace installed by Fisher Body when the body was built, it is over tubular rubber core and it's color and pattern are a little different than anything carried by vendors today. After a pretty exhaustive internet search I can't even find 3/8" windlace made over a tubular core, every vendor has their windlace sewn over solid closed cell foam. I also have a few remnants from the previous owner's restoration efforts. but nowhere near enough to complete the car. Does anyone know where I can get 10 yards of like the second picture below? Dave... Pictured here is an original piece of windlace with it's original pattern cloth sewn over 3/8" rubber tube. Pictured here is a remnant of 3/8" antique gray windlace sewn over tubular core. This matches other windlace already installed in the car. I'm hoping someone has 10 yards of this windlace or knows a vendor who does. Here is my new door panel in place for the first time with the windlace around just the lower panel and guess what- the door won't close... Here is a picture of the windlace on the door after moving it in. The door closes now but you can see in the second picture it doesn't want to bend around corners with it's solid foam core...
  4. I decided to make door panels for my 1931 Buick 8-66S restoration project. The hard part is finding suitable windlace for the doors. There is already some windlace in the interior trim of the car I'm trying to match. All the modern cloth windlace is sewn mostly over 1/2" solid foam core, some 3/8" solid foam core windlace is available by special order. The 3/8" solid core WILL NOT bend crisply at the corners of the door, tubular core will bend much more accurately. I'm looking for 10yds of antique light gray windlace on tubular rubber core. See picture below.
  5. You can buy glass here. Don't turn down frame with broken or defective glass... http://www.classicflatglass.com/auto_lookup.aspx
  6. Rodney- I had 68 and 69 GTO's with 400 cu in motors, the 69 was a RA IV automatic without air. The 68 was a 400 HO with air. These idle speeds are from memory, may not be exact. The 68 A/C on idle was around 750-800 in neutral, should not be below 600 in gear. Fast idle was around 1200-1250 rpm cold, A/C off. The Hurst Dual Gate shifter with gate closed only allows access to park, reverse, neutral and drive, it will allow fully automatic upshifts in drive. Gate open then allows access to second which when left in that position will only lock out drive. If you come to a stop with the gate open second position the car should downshift to first and allow automatic upshift from first to second. Selecting low gear or first gear will hold the trans in low gear, no upshifts. I never had a hood tach but it does read from left to right, needle moves clockwise as engine speed increases. Typically redline starts at 5500. Milt Schornack installing the 400 HO in my 68 GTO after working his magic. Milt Schornack was MR Royal Bobcat GTO and campaigned cars for GM and Royal Pontiac. I wanted my GTO to look bone stock under the hood but still pack a little extra wallop. It had a crank ground 0.060" to lengthen stroke 0.120" giving 406 cu in and had a roller cam, custom calibrated Quadrajet carburetor, custom curved distributor, higher stall torque converter and reworked trans valve body. It would easily rev to 6,500 and chriped modern radial tires on the 1-2 shift... The A/C was restored and functional. This car's interior was a mess requiring rewiring, restoration of Rally Gauge Pack and I had to find an 8-track player and replace an aftermarket wheel with the correct sports wheel to get the car back to the build sheet specs. The car was probably a secretary's car, it was originally built with PMD pancake wheel covers and whitewall tires which led the unwary to think it was a cream puff.
  7. I blew up the first picture of your post and it clearly has an adjustment feature on the lever that activates the switch. If making an adjustment to the lever doesn't make the brake light operate and you are sure you have voltage at the switch I would first jump the terminals on the switch which should send 6 volts to the tail light. Still no light? Remove the bulb and test for 6 volts at the lamp socket AND a good ground for the lamp circuit. If you can't read 6 volts at the socket look into the possibility of a bad brake light wire. If you do get 6 volts and the light didn't light replace the bulb. If the light did come on when you jumpered the switch the switch is the culprit, take it off, open it and clean the contacts.
  8. My mother was a bit of a daredevil. She was a tiny school teacher who liked to drive fast cars. She made her bones in the 1955 Skyliner which my dad nicknamed the night fighter because you could see the stars and moon thru the glass front top. She took that car out Van Born Rd. which was good smooth asphalt out in far country and ran that 312 4bbl Skyliner up to 112mph and brought back home and told my dad it had a slight shimmy at 100 that went away at 105... She would be sitting at the light and some high school kid would pull up next to that Comet wagon expecting to blow her off. Boy did they get a surprise when she stood on that thing. It was the only car I ever remember my dad leasing that would light the tires by just stomping the loud pedal... In 1969 she announced she was gonna spend her summer driving to Alaska from Michigan, took my then 15 year old sister with her while I worked at Cadillac Motor on Scotten Ave in Detroit. She asked me for advice on a car. We went to North Bros Ford and I ordered her a 1970 Falcon wagon, medium blue metallic, plain wheels and dog dish caps. It sported a 351 Cleveland 2bbl with a C-6 automatic and a 2.79-1 single track axle with power steering, power brakes, heavy duty suspension and battery. It had an AM radio, no A/C, cheap cloth and vinyl seats, black rubber floor mat and not a sign of bright exterior trim save for the skimpy little chrome bumpers. We put a rubber stone guard under the gas tank, clear lexan headlamp covers on it, equipped it with 6 ply Kelly Springfield tires with 2 spares, 5 gallon Jerry can for emergency fuel and 3 oil and air filters. At the time the Alcan highway was 1300 miles of gravel over perma frost. She was gone for 6 weeks, flew a Ford Tri-motor from Juneau to Sitka that crashed 3 days after their trip and made the news in Michigan. I spent a couple of days trying to contact her to make sure they weren't on that doomed flight. She finally called home from Anchorage that they were ok. I have 3 fund-raiser Morley candy boxes full of slides she shot in her Kodak Instamatic camera in my basement to prove it LOL...
  9. Let's see... My grandfather was driving a 1955 Chevy Bel Air. My great uncles had a 53 Chevy Bel Air and a 57 Dodge wagon with PB shift. We had a 1955 Ford Skyliner with glass bubble top and my uncle had a beautiful red & white Olds 88. The last car my dad bought before he started getting Ford lease cars was a brown and tan Ford Del Rio ranch wagon. His experimental program at Ford was frame rail exhaust for the Lincoln. At the time my dad was driving all kinds of 55-57 T-bird test cars home, one of which had a Lincoln 430 under the hood. I would get him to take me for a ride in the morning before I went to grade school. In 1960 he was supposed to have gotten an Edsel Corsair but the carline got cancelled so we wound up with a red 1960 Sunliner convertible with a 352 2bbl. My dad, my brother and his high school buddy down the street climbed into the Sunliner one evening and we drove to Detroit Dragway down on Sibley and Dix and saw Connie Kalitta turn the first 8 second quarter mile ET in his 427 Ford powered Bouty Hunter. My dad's Ford projects then were 100mph sedan because there were rumors the national speed limit was going up and Big Red, the gas turbine truck. Neighbors behind were driving a 57 Plymouth Savoy. In 1961 we got a Comet 6cyl station wagon that was, umm, a real slug. My dad's 1962 lease car was a black T-bird hardtop, followed by a 63 Fairlane sports coupe. My brother bought a 1963 Austin Healey Sprite and his high school buddy bought a black 1963 Dodge Polara with the 13-1 CR 426 cross ram Max Wedge and PB Torqueflite. He worked at Dearborn Steel Tube modifying Ford Fairlanes making them into 427 Thunderbolts. His customers were Phil Bonner and Hubert Platte. My dad's 1964 lease car was a powder blue T-bird convertible and his 65 lease was a Comet Caliente 404 wagon with chrome rocker covers and aircleaner 289 271HP HiPo my dad special ordered. He was involved in Project Wiggly Worm- a Ford variable ratio power steering development program. He drove a 63 T-bird home one night that had two 6inch dials on a table arrangement that steered the car. Another, and my favorite was a 64 T-bird test car that had a fixed t-bar at the top of the column with 2 polished aluminum machine gun handles mounted on the ends to steer the car. The triggers operated the brakes and thumb switches operated turns signals. By that time the kid living behind us had a 63 327 4speed Stingray, then a 63 Impala 409. The paperboy(man) had a Harley Duo Glide and this other middle aged idiot up the street had a 1963 XLCH Sportster which he kept in his living room except on the rare occasion him and his drinking buddies would carry it outside, light it up on straight pipes and blast down Second Street in Wayne blowing the stop sign at Clinton as fast as it would go, then circling around the block and whisking it back into his living room before the cops arrived. Neighbor across the street painted houses for a living and drove a 59 Pontiac wagon. These are just a few of my early memories but there was no end of interesting cars around when I was a kid...
  10. The other thing I think makes this a kind of fuzzy subject is the fact Duesenberg never sold a car with a body on it out of their shop, they made chassis for sale to custom body makers. I would think that could technically make any Duesenberg "of the style of" whoever bodied either originally or thereafter. I'm not even questioning whether or not the car is wearing it's original body so much as the language used to describe it. Why not just say "rebodied" or original body...
  11. This was on of the first jobs I tackled on my 1931 Buick 8-66S coupe. I had never done this before an at first was baffled on how to tackle doors that sagged at the rear to the point they dragged on the scuff plates in the bottom of the door opening. I did the Fisher Body door alignment reading, rounded up the correct style rubber shims in 1/8" and 1/4" thickness (Fisher manual warns "do not use metal shims"), loosened all the body bolts and used a floor jack and a piece of 1x2 ash lumber to raise the body. I removed the body bolt under the hinge or A-pillar of the car, raised the body just enough to slip a 1/4" thick shim under first the left side which cured that door, then moved to the other side of the car and did the same for the passenger door with same result. I found a couple of other body bolt locations where there was a big gap between the frame and the body sill and installed just enough shim to stabilize those then snugged- not real tight, just enough to collapse the split lock washers. This made a huge difference in how the doors close. Go here and scroll down a couple of posts to see what I did with my car...
  12. I was very sorry to hear of the car/motorcycle accident that is the subject of this thread. Either the motorcycle that hit the Model A was very heavy or it was going very fast. In either case the outcome was tragic. I rode motorcycles for over 50yrs and managed to not get killed. That's a miracle because in my early days of motorcycling I lacked understanding of how dangerous it is to be on 2 wheels with no passenger restraint systems and no protective structure around. I actually learned to ride at the age of 15 by sneaking my brother's brand new 1966 Yamaha Catalina 250 road bike out of the garage which was a target of opportunity because I got out of middle school across the street from home 2hrs before anyone else was going to be home and my brother always left the keys for the Yamaha laying on a table in his room. I started by just learning to get it on and off the center stand, it outweighed me by a couple hundred pounds. Then I learned to start it, followed by learning how to use the clutch and first gear in the driveway followed by riding helmet-less around the 25 mph residential streets of our sub at too high speeds and finally out on the main highways in shorts, no helmet, no eye protection, no gloves. I was actually building my first motorcycle by adding a 5hp Lauson lawnmower engine to a Schwinn Stingray bicycle. One day my brother came home from his co-op job at the Ford Livonia Transmission and Chassis plant to ride his new motorcycle. When he nearly burned his hands on the hot engine of the Yamaha that arrived back in the garage after my last joy ride 5 minutes before he got home he quietly neglected to leave the keys home anymore. Work progressed on the home made cycle and I took it on it's first test ride in the subdivision. I was doing probably 30mph when I got to the end of the street across from the lady raking leaves on the boulevard and made 2 discoveries, A- the Schwinn needed some kind of brakes and B- it didn't like to turn on short notice at speed. I wound up making part of my turn in the lady's driveway and managed to get back to the garage without killing anyone. Later I got caught by the local police riding the contraption without a license but by that time it had brakes and they were so impressed they told me to ride it home and get an assembler's title, add lights, horn and mirror and license it which I did to my father's horror. He was a Ford engineering manager and Ford was on a huge vehicle safety crusade. He knew he couldn't talk me out of motorcycles by that point but was bound and determined to get me on something with more robust safety equipment than offered by a 50mph home-built on bicycle tires, so for Christmas I got a 1966 Yamaha Trail 80, my first real motorcycle. In 50yrs I fell off 4 times without serious injury, once trying to ride my new Yamaha on glare iced winter roads on knobby tires just yards from our driveway, once as a passenger on another Yamaha trail 80 in a wet asphalt parking lot, again on my bike when at wide open throttle on the 51 tooth trail gear when it hooked a piece of concrete re-rod anchored in a concrete boulder in the ground at the local waste transfer site (very scary- ever stop a model airplane engine by throwing a rag into the propeller- EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEYIPP) I exited over the handle bars at 40mph and when I came to the Yamaha was standing upright hooked by the foot peg cross bar on the re-rod, and once on first ride after having new tires installed on a Honda VFR750F road bike I restored when I tried to beat the traffic light and leaned it over to make a right turn and wound up on the ground in the intersection still hanging onto the right handlebar where I clicked the kill switch, then winding up looking straight into the grill of a 1970 Buick Gran Sport that was following me around to corner. Thank god he was watching or I would have been a new menu item at the local roadkill cafe! I later read a Cycle World article on the plane on company business that the mold release agent used in manufacture of motorcycle tires was very slippery and dangerous until the tires were run for an hour at speed and resultant heating to burn the stuff off. If I had know that I would have stopped for the yellow traffic light, saved the drama and about $1000. worth of Honda fiberglass full fairing parts, rubber hand grip, shift lever, brake levers and a muffler can. After the first 3 of these incidents I became quite interested in rider safety which included the best full coverage helmet I could buy, good leather or kevlar jackets and pants, heavy boots and kevlar gloves which were all employed regardless of how hot the weather. I reasoned that if I imagined all that stuff was hot on 90degree days it would have been nothing compared to how hot a coworker's shoulder was after he went down on a Honda Goldwing i sold him at 80mph on wet asphalt in the Poconos riding in a T-shirt. He came to work for a month that summer with his exposed shoulder looking like a pizza pie and having to report to the UofM Burn Center every couple of days to have his wounds debreeded and painted with Betadine disinfectant. The motorcycles were all equipped with the loudest Fiamm horns, Bosch or Cibie quartz halogen headlights, daytime running lights and light horns. All had excellent wet brake performance save for the Honda Goldwing which had stainless solid rotor disc brakes that were totally lost once wet for a good distance until they dried off. My BMW's had the best predictable wet pavement brakes, combining drum brakes and drilled rotor iron disc brakes that lost nothing in performance or predictability in wet going. But the most important safety feature, the one that more often saved my bacon contained the following ingredients. A. Driver condition: NEVER drink alcohol within 24hrs of riding a motorcycle. Don't ride tired, sleepy or while taking medicines that may reduce your reaction times. B. Vehicle condition: CHECK all safety equipment on the motorcycle and the stuff you wear on your body for proper operation, lights, turn signals, mirrors, brakes, chain tension and tire condition and pressures on the bike, helmet, clean face plate, jacket and pants, boots and gloves for proper fit and condition. A tire pressure gauge and a good rain suit were always on board. C. Most important and applicable to this thread- driver skills/technique/attitude: I ALWAYS rode like I was a ghost in traffic and no one knew I was there. I always rode in the part of the lane that made me most visible to other vehicles, left side of right lane where my headlight was in the outside rear view mirror of the car in front of me and tail light was visible to car behind, center of center lane, headlight in inside rear view mirror of car in front, not a good lane to stay in because cars in other lanes can't see you, right side of passing lane where headlight was in the outside rear view mirror of the car in front. Never pass on the right. Never change lanes or make a turn without checking all mirrors and looking over your shoulder. Never tailgate, the guy in front of you is about to avoid a tire carcass or an old muffler by centering it up and rolling right over it, you can't see it until it's too late to avoid because you took the time to anticipate away from your self by tailgating and you are riding in the part of the lane that is obstructed- bang you just hit a muffler... Never avoid traffic by passing between lanes or on the shoulder You can really make time on the shoulder when traffic is stopped until someone opens a door in front of you.. Never ride side by side with another vehicle especially hanging around the back of a semi trailer. Never ride at much higher speed than surrounding traffic- the absolute speed won't kill you but differential speed combined with a car suddenly entering your lane WILL kill you. Always have an open planned escape route. This is really hard and most dangerous when sitting in a left turn lane waiting for traffic and a light to make a left turn, hard to have an escape route and a great place to get rear ended- watch your mirrors and the traffic in front of you. ASSUME NOTHING: As soon as you trust another to look out for you you are gonna get hurt. I finally quit riding at age 68 because I sustained a belly hernia reaching over the vertical fuel tank profile to a set of low clip-on handlebars while riding a fabulously fun to ride Ducati 996 Superbike due to the fact I was overweight. Tearing a stomach muscle is a painful and continuous reminder that it was time to hang up my helmet. Slowing reaction times and loss of mobility and stamina were other considerations along with a wife who is scared to death of motorcycles. The survival skills I learned on motorcycles is not lost on cars. My wife is always impressed at my clever maneuvers that have avoided serious accidents by anticipating them, a couple of times when approaching traffic was obviously moving too fast approaching a curve on an icy road and many times spotting deer far enough down the road to get stopped safely. My eyes are always moving and I still always try to have a place to go if someone else makes a dangerous move. I never pull out to pass or make a left turn without looking in the mirrors and turning my head to look... This was my first real motorcycle after my dad discovered I was hooked. He thought this to be a bit safer than the Schwinn Stingray I made into a "motorcycle" of sorts by adding a 5hp Lauson lawnmower motor, caliper brakes, horn, mirrors and battery operated lights. After all that it still had tiny spokes, tube bicycle tires and no suspension whatever... This is a Yamaha Catalina 250 like the one my brother had and that I learned to ride on by borrowing the keys he left at home to joy ride it. He finally caught me because the engine was still hot when he came home early one day from his summer co-op job at Ford to ride it. I had just wheeled it back into the garage and got in the house before he arrived. When the water cooled opposed cylinder Honda Gold Wing came out in 1975 I just had to have one. I discovered while it had water cooling, was very smooth, quiet and powerful the heavy exhaust pipes near the foot controls radiated a lot of heat, it didn't handle particularly well, was heavy and those stainless front brake rotors wouldn't even slow the bike down for awhile if wet. In 1977 I bought my second BMW motorcycle, an R100S which turned out to be my all time favorite. It weighed 456lbs with 6.5 gallons of gas on board, got 50mpg at 70mph except in fierce headwinds, had 126mph top end, great lights and horns, great riding comfort with the little bikini fairing and with it's low CG and great all weather brakes was very confidence inspiring... Leather was always hot in summer heat. The Aerostich riding suit pictured here was a bit cooler, had lots of light reflecting panels to improve visibility to other drivers and provided neck to ankle coverage. Boots, gloves and the best helmet I could find rounded out my safety apparel. This is a Honda VFR750F like the one I was riding when I had an unfortunate incident trying to beat a yellow traffic light by making a fast right turn when it went down in a heap leaving me on the pavement staring into the grill of a Buick that was following me around the corner. I was fortunate enough not to be run over but all that plastic stuff was in pieces and turned into and expensive lesson on cutting corners on new tires wet with mold release agent... These are the last 2 motorcycles out of some 35 I owned just before I quit riding. The one on the left is a BMW R1100S which was a pretty good long range road bike I could climb on and ride 400 miles to the cottage and the Ducati 996 Superbike which was a 90degree V-twin with Desmodromic valve train and a 160mph top end. It was the most challenging and rewarding motorcycle I ever rode. When I quit I had a bigger wardrobe of riding apparel than I ever had business attire. That's me behind the counter sporting my other helmet. That same garage stall is now home for the 1931 Buick 8-66S I get my thrills from today...
  13. It was the first year for the inline overhead valve 8, Buick went from all 6 cylinder models in 1930 to 3 overhead valve straight 8's, 50 series was 77hp 221 cu in 1bbl, single plate clutch initially with open driveshaft, non synchro trans, later in 1931 went to torque tube and synchromesh trans, 60 series was 90hp 272 cu in 2bbl with single plate clutch, torque tube drive and synchromesh trans from job1, 80/90 series was 104hp 348 cu in 2bbl with dual disc clutch, torque tube drive and synchromesh trans. A very few early engine builds were done with bronze cam bearings which had failures and were 100% replaced with poured babbit bearings that were successful. The bodies of the 1931 cars were mostly carryover and the new engines were cast with thinner yet very robust cylinder castings because they had to package 2 more cylinders in the same engine bays previously occupied by 6 cylinder engine. These cars were subjected to brutal at the GM proving grounds with lots of wide open throttle running before they were released for sale. While many improvements were made over the years keep in mind Buick offered straight 8's thru the 1953 model year so was the initial design sound- yes. Did early models have problems- not many. They quickly earned a reputation for reliability. Buick was credited with saving GM during the worst of automotive manufacturing times, they were introduced and survived during the great depression and helped GM weather transitions in and out of WWII. Many other marques faded from existence including withing GM and both then (Dort, REO, LaSalle and almost Cadillac) and now (Oldsmobile, Pontiac) but Buick remained.
  14. I bought a beautiful pair of restored 1931 Michigan license plates for my 1931 Buick project car. I'm looking for someone who makes or sells plain chrome steel or stainless steel or chrome plated or natural aluminum 4 hole frames to fit plates that measure 5-1/2" tall x 11-1/2" wide with 5" x 7-1/2" hole centers. Any ideas?
  15. I bought a beautiful pair of restored 1931 Michigan license plates for my 1931 Buick project car. I'm looking for someone who makes or sells plain chrome steel or stainless steel or chrome plated or natural aluminum 4 hole frames to fit plates that measure 5-1/2" tall x 11-1/2" wide with 5" x 7-1/2" hole centers. Any ideas?
  16. That fits Henry Ford I's MO. He did odd things at Ford, like the time he went to inspect the progress of a building that was to be the power plant for the Ford engineering laboratory built in 1923 on Oakwood Blvd. in Dearborn, MI. At the time they were laying the foundation for a massive chimney. Ford asked- what the heck that was and the workmen explained what it was. Ford asked why it was being built on the ground inside the plant and they explained chimneys, especially that chimney were quite heavy and required a good sturdy foundation which was always built on the ground. Ford told them "Not around here they aren't, get that chimney on the roof!" And so they did after building an iron pillar foundation which led to a platform the chimney was built on, on the roof... My great grandfather took my grandfather to the building site of the Ford mansion under construction in St. Clair Shores, MI when my grandfather was a young lad. Henry I happened to be there inspecting that job and came over and greeted and talked to my great grandfather. After a bit he asked my grandfather if he had a set of toy blocks at home to which my grandfather said no. Henry I pulled a carpenter off that job and had him saw up some blocks for my grandfather to take home...
  17. One more idea and I will leave you alone... Scrape the grease away then spray the perimeter of the cover joint to the cylinder block with penetrating oil and let it set for a few days while you are working on the Chevy. You will probably still have to get brave and put a wood block against the side of it and hit it with a hammer to pop it loose. That shouldn't be much risk of breaking it, just don't hit it with a hammer directly.
  18. Dave- You said you removed the bolts at the ball connection flange and pried it back far enough to see part of the u-joint. The u-joint has a yoke with the drive spline that slides onto the output shaft of the trans. Hoist the car by the frame. Then if you have the bolts out of the ball flange once you get brake rods off, saddle bolts off the axle attachment to the springs let the car down until the tires just contact the floor and lay a couple strips of masking tape on the floor next to the tires to help guide the axle back in later, remove the rear spring shackles and let the springs down. Now you should be able to roll the axle back enough to get the input yoke to drop off the trans output shaft, the yoke on the u-joint will just slide off the splines of the trans output shaft. If you can roll the axle back just far enough to get the torque tube flange out of the cross member that would be ideal but you may have to raise the car just a bit to get the axle to clear the gas tank and tail pipe. If you can't roll the axle back far enough to get the torque tube flange be very careful not to raise the car fare enough to get the torque tube in a bind on the cross member flanges. If you just can't get the torque tube out of the cross member you can remove the lower half of the cross member by unbolting it from the upper. In any event don't try to just roll the axle back from the rear, push it back by the front of the torque tube so you can guide the flange on the end of the tube thru the cross member without hanging it up. Finally once the torque tube is clear of the cross member you can lift the car and roll the axle and torque tube out.
  19. Not wanting to be bearer of bad news, and you probably know this but to service any of the culprits the axle and torque tube have to come out. If it was just the U-joint you could avoid pulling the trans but if it's the clutch the trans has to come out too... Let us know what you find out...
  20. Hi Dave; The fact that the clutch chattered when the driveline failed would lead me to think you have a clutch failure. There is a big cast iron inspection cover that you can remove fairly easily that will expose the flywheel and clutch. If I'm right there may be loose parts in the cover when you remove it, springs most likely. If you decide to look into the trans to see what is happening there you will have to remove the shifter AND the cover behind it on the top of the trans I believe, removing the shifter only won't let you see into the trans. If you get that cover off I would think the trans will be in neutral and if that's the case you should be able to stop one rear wheel and turn the other. If it is smooth and quiet the u-joint is probably ok. 80/90 trans drawing, if you look at the shifter it is outside the gearcase and just engages 2 shift forks that slide in the cover behind the shifter. You won't see gear movement without removing both. I would start by removing this flywheel cover. If you have loose parts here that's probably end of story, it's a clutch/pressure plate failure... If you don't find the problem in the bell housing and decide to remove the shifter and trans cover make sure you start by putting the trans in neutral, then remove the shifter lifting it straight up, then remove the cover behind it also being careful to lift straight up. That will leave the trans in neutral letting you test the u-joint by turning one rear wheel while holding the other.
  21. This is thrown out just as a possibility. Bore scopes are pretty cheap these days, you might consider putting a bore scope in the water jacket if possible, either thru the thermostat opening in the head or if this engine still uses a water jacket cover you might get a peek inside thru one of the cover bolt holes without removing manifolds. An engine with mud half way up the outside of the cylinders inside the water jacket won't cool well even with a brand new radiator. Just a thought. If it is full of md and has a water jacket cover take the manifolds or whatever is in the way off, get the cover off and clean the mud out around the cylinders and put it back together. That coupled with a radiator flush will work miracles with the temp gauge...
  22. Matt wins $10... Ad was pulled, disappeared right out of my watch list and is not available in current listings.
  23. Another vote for Rotella 15-W-40. I use it in my 31 60 series car. I will say the starter complains when the weather gets cooler but I usually fog with Sta-Bil fogging oil about that time and let it simmer on the battery tender until spring.
  24. Did my 1931 Buick temp gauge as well...
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