DonMicheletti

Perfect. Just the crossover, as you mention. But that may be a bit of a PITA with rusted nuts and studs - go easily on those. Sometimes, the #1 crank throw may be in the way when you drop the pan and you'll have to rotate the crank to get clearance

The water passage gasket was probably cork originally. Any gasket material easily compliant

Initially having good idle speed pressure is typical since oil flow is low. On speed up, flow increases and as flow increases, if the screen is plugged, the pump will starve for oil with reduced flow and pressure. Also starving the lifters for oil. I would only test this without driving the car. Start it, let it run at idle until warm, always keeping track of oil pressure. When warm, accelerate the engine to about a good driving speed and hold it for a while. If pressure stays the same, good, you do not have a screen plug problem. Lifter noise is something else. However, if you do get any reduction in oil pressure, you do have a plugged oil pickup screen.

I find that I can do a pretty good job of setting points with a feeler gage, usually being a few degrees off when checked with a dwell meter. The only distributors that are really great using a dwell meter are the GM late point style distributors where you can adjust the points to set dwell, by a screw, with the engine running. Very easy to get the dwell perfect (for right then) I find the typical setting points where you have to loosen and tighten screws to set the clearaance a PITA using a dwell meter. I had an experience once, when a friend with a Corvette and a dwell meter, wanted help with a point change. It had the external adjustment type GM distributor. I set the points using a feeler. Upon start up the engine ran fine, but his dwell meter said the dwell was way, way off. I told him hismeter was wrong, but he insisted we set the points using his dwell meter. We did and the engine ran like crap and had no power. Upon checking the points agan we found the gap extermely wide. We went through the whole proceedure again with the same result. I finally convinced him that his meter was wrong. My feeler gages had not lost their calibration.

Does the car have a real oil pressure gage or just an idiot light? If it has a pressure gage, does the pressuer drop on acceleration of the engine at any time? If it does, that pump screen is probably clogged.

What you are hearing may not be a lifter issue at all. It is likely sludge buildup in the oil pan clogging the oil pump pickup screen causing the pump to starve for oil. After just sitting for many years sludge forms. Just draining and changing the oil is not good enough. In my opinion cleaning the pan is cheap insurance. Oil starvation can destroy the bearings and just about everything else. Dropping the pan probably involves removing the crossover exhaust pipe and maybe the stabilizer bar. If you have the service manual, just follow the directions and you'll be OK. Gaskets are available through Bobs Automobilia and several other vendors.

I find Mc Masters great, and, like you, find their delivery quick. Also, having it dropped on your doorstep beats running around trying to find things that are difficult to find. While they are not cheap, you can get stuff you can't find (easily) anywhere else.

The pushrod cover is a notorious source of leaks. Seal it carefully.

The exhaust cutout is original. To operate, you push down to open and then back to lock it open. Unnecessary noise in my opinion

If the pilot bearing is actually a ball bearing, I have had an instance where the trans input shaft had rusted a bit and actually stuck in the bearing giving the same problem you see. I just pried it apart with no dmage. This was with a Buick - trans looks the same.

Just dont fly your car

Steam cylinder oil really is sticky goo at room temperature. And it really sticks to EVERYTHING and doesnt run off. Originally it had tallow in it. I doubt that is the case today

I had both cars in the 1970's and sold them a long time ago, so, no I do not have photos. I remember the striping because, at that time, I could not find anyone who would duplicate that fine striping as original, so I didnt stripe them at all when I restored them. I did have a sketch of the original striping, but that is long gone too My recollection is there were 4 fine stripes on the belt line on the body at the doors. 2 of the top stripes curved upward and followed the belt up to the roof. There were 4 strips on that too. The forward 2 stripes came down and continued on the hood. Same at the rear where the top 2 stripes went up to the roof and 2 more atthe rear came down and wrapped around the rear of the car.

Years ago I had original '31 ,and '32 Buicks. Pinstriping was similar on both years. Belt line striping (and continuation on hood) was multiple, very narrow stripes. Nothing anywhere else other than wood wheels.

I have to question the use of bellville washers on exhaust manifolds. Basically, bellvills are just springs and manifolds can get hot enough to cause them to loose temper. (I have seen manifolds red hot). Same with the use of lock washers. I'd stay with the thick washers as original. Of more importance is that the "ears" of the manifolds be the same height - a washer can't adequately compensate for much difference.

While you dont call it driving I did run Southern Pacific steam locomotive # 2472. I was extremely involved with its reatoration and operation

I couldnt either on my 2 cars

Question, Should the little hose between the water pumkp and thermostst housing be painted? I'd think that if the engine was painted after completely assembled, that hose probably would be green too.

Why does hindsight come so late in the game?

Any bearing supply business would be able to match the seal. It is nothing special If you have a number or can measure the size McMaster-Carr might have one

The '18 has a different valve. 1/4 turn shutoff. It is a special valve, probably Stewart.

If you are usinmg an electric pump, even with he regulator, pressure may be to high for the carb. The best way to start a car with updrqaft carb is to use a lot of throttle and full choke until it fires and then back off on both. You have to choke the heck out of it. You obviously have fuel to the carb.

Bloo, Usually those engines have a single action pump, but some have double action pumps - I think they came later. The above is my "38 Special

Bloo, It looks like your pump is upside down.

While possible, very, very unlikely. Are you sure the pump is correct and that the line from the tank is OK?