DonMicheletti

While possible, very, very unlikely. Are you sure the pump is correct and that the line from the tank is OK?

Morgan, my biggest challenge on that repair was to get the tube round enough to back the nut off enough to do the job. Yours is a lot worse than mine was

I had the exact same problems. All the original fuel lines on my car are brass too. This was my successfull fix. I took the "stupid soldered joint" apart, cleaned the tube and ID of the fitting and resoldered it with soft solder. On the ferrule end, I worked on the tube behind the nut and was able to back the nut away from the ferrule (which was loose on the tube rotationally). I cleaned the tube and ferrule very carefully and soft soldered the two together and also "wiped" the ferrule with solder (photo). It isnt pretty, but it worked. When assembled, no more leaks. In "wiping" the ferrule with soft solder, the solder on the ferrule crushes to match the tank fitting on assembly. It took me about an hour, I spent 0$ and it is still all original and non leaking.

You learn something every day! I'm very surprised it did not work. I'm wrong again

I hate days like that when you work hard all day and it seems nothing is done

Bloo hit the "operation" nail on the head

Nice job.

On the '38's the switch and bulb socket are integrated, But I believe the design is the same. The cap is a press fit and was very difficult to remove. When the switch is in one position, the balls will fall away from the 2 conical contacts. In another position the balls will fall across the 2 contacts, thus turning the light on. Corrosion is the probable problem. While I took mine apart to clean it, you might just try placing the light bulb as a load on the swich and with voltage applied rattle it around violently a lot (that will not hurt it) and see if things clean up to get it to work. Worth a shot.

I doubt it is Mercury switch. I dont think those caps wouldnt contain the stuff. I have worked an a similar switch on my two '38 Buicks and they use a series of balls and contacts. Yours is likely the same design. Here are those guts

I have been driving since 1957 and have had vintage cars since 1960. Until recently, with new cars, all the others have had conventional point igniion systems. I have never had a point failure on any of those point ignition cars. I'd guess that point falure, like other issues, is a crap shoot. I have never had to fix a problem I didnt have

Other important items to clean up and go through are the entire fuel system and brakes. Especially breaks. Unlikely they will still work. Parts are redily available and inexpensive. You'll fine the AACA - Prewar Buick site very helpfull

I'm impressed by your engine stand holding that monstrosity like that.

When I got my Roadmaster, the front "rope" seal was leaking like a sieve. I converted it to a lip seal...no leaks. Did the same on the Special.

The back of the harmonic balancer on my '38 Special was painted green, suggesting that it was painted before mounting. It was an original engine. I found that very strange, but the back of the water pump was painted too.

I had a similar problem with my '31 right after restoration. It drove me nuts trying ti track dowm. The problem...I forgot to install the condenser.

Lots of talcum powder as a lubricant helps too. I have always had good luck with my 3 leg rim spreader

One "interesting" experience with my '31 Buick. After I had resotred it, I had the carge rate set too high and burned out the generator. After having it rewound, I reduced the charge rate to what I thought was better. However, one night while driving on the highway, the car just quit. It "ran out" of electricity. It was running negative charge with the lights on and I wasnt paying attention. After a short wait, I got a push and the car restarted and I drove home just on the parking lights. Not a fun experience. Setting the charge rate is a real balancing act.

You guys are going to give me a big head!

Brian, The engine work you are doing is my favorite part of a restoration. The cam timing method used by Buick has gotten more than one guy who is used to aligning the marks at 6:00 and 12:00. I really question the need for the PAL nuts. Most engines do not use them, none do now. I'd like to know Buicks thoughts on why they were used. Rod nuts have gone from using cotter pins to PAL nuts to nothing to keep them tight

What is the diameter? The manual says the 80 and 90 series cars cylinders are 1-3/16". Bobs Automobilia lists rebuild kits and the cylinders can be sleeved.

A weak point in the mailobox coil is that small resistor on the front. A dead coil might be just a blown resistor

True.

Yes, you can shut them off. You just cant turn them on when the headlight switch is off. The ignition switch would be a good feed too

I have heard the sme thing about not setting them up tight by oltimers

It sure is in a lousy place. Not exactly convenient