Doctor's Pontiac

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About Doctor's Pontiac

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  1. Judging by the front grille design appears to be a 1958 not a 1959 as shown on these photos I found on the internet
  2. Carl and John. Thanks for your replies. Yes, I still need them: Two moldings that go in the center of the door of a 1950 2 Door sedan. Part # is 4561602 and they measure 47 inches long. I sent you a private message also. Manuel
  3. TexasJohn55: That is what I did and reported back in my post. However, when removing the drain cock I get almost nothing, only got 1 drop of coolant per second. I tried hard with wire and a small screwdriver to remove any debris in the drain cock but nothing comes out, only a few drops of clear water. That is the reason I asked if it is safe to poke the inside of the drain cock tube with a metal probe and in which direction does the water tubing go. I feel a metal wall when probing inside the drain cock tube and I am concerned damaging the cylinder wall. I am also learning how to remove the core plugs as suggested by Tinindian and that will be next job if no improvement. Hope to get more tips from this forum. Thank you all for your answers. Manuel
  4. To follow on my overheating problem: 1) I am waiting for the temperature reading gun to arrive 2) Meantime, removed the thermostat. It opens at about 190-200 F and it closes very rapidly with just a bit of drop in temperature. I will place a replacement I have that is a 160 F stat and see if that improves. 3) Put a "radiator and block cleaner" available locally in the radiator and drove for about 30 minutes. It may have helped a bit because now the block drain in the rear of the block, driver's side, is producing a few drops of water, 1 drop per second to be precise, of clear water. I probed the tube with a thin screwdriver without putting any pressure and all I feel is a thick metal wall at about 1.5 inches deep from the opening with no sign of any communication to the rest of the water system. Can somebody post a diagram of this coolant drain system? In which direction should I try to poke to open up any hardened corrosion material likely present inside? I am worry about damaging the cylinder wall. Thanks and look forward for your comments ! Manuel
  5. Thanks. Very helpful tips. I will get a temp gun and do the measurements as recommended (great idea to have one, will be helpful for other things as well). This weekend will also remove the water pump and see what its condition is. The block drain plug not working troubles me and suspect there is a lot of crud in the block as suggested. I hesitate removing the core plugs, just because it is a lot of work and only have one afternoon a week to work on it, not to mention my limited mechanical abilities. It is one of those jobs that you wish don't have to do but you know will be needed. Will see what happens. I will post more after I follow some of the recommendations. It may be 2-3 weeks until I can get the temp gun from the US. The airflow cowl around the radiator is in place, so this is not a factor in my car.
  6. My 1950 Chieftain has been running and driving well with no issues for years. Two weeks ago suddenly temp started to increase to 200 F and a bit higher (never to 220, never boiling). I check the radiator first and found leaks all over. Removed the radiator and found it in pitiful shape, with numerous leaks and most tubes plugged in after years of corrosion and dirt (sorry, never did a radiator maintainance in 5 years I owned the car). Had the radiator re-cored with a new panel with 3 tubes, flushed the entire system, checked the 160 F thermostat and it seems OK. Initially had concerns with the head gasket but after checking again with the help of a mechanic it seems all right. Put everything back, hoses are good and tight and engine runs and drives perfectly, good power, etc. The problem is that the engine temp remains stable at 180 F while driving but about a minute after stopping and idling it starts increasing steadily. I waited about 5 minutes and it went up to 205 F so I stopped it. I did not try to test how high temp will go because of concerns of causing more damage. I started driving again and temp quickly returned to 180 and remains there until next stop. There are no leaks anymore. Radiator cap works well at 4 lbs. So, with with background, these are my questions trying to figure out what to do next: 1) I found the engine block drain in the rear of the engine, driver's side, completely blocked. Tried hard to remove any debris with wires and pressure and have no water flow there and don't know how to clear it. Can this blocked water passage explain this overheating? 2) The engine temp sensor,a new one installed 3 years ago, is very close to this engine block drain. Is it possible that most of the block is getting adequate cooling but the rear cylinder next to the temp sensor is not getting enough coolant because of this drain that is plugged in? 3) Car is in a HOT location in South America with Summer starting this week, daily temps to 110 F. Which is the best thermostat for this engine? 268 ci original L-Head. Did not have any similar issues in prior Summers. I certainly will appreciate any advice. My mechanic suggested to replace the head gasket but before going that route I want to exhaust the other simpler options. Thanks a lot for your help ! Manuel
  7. Can someone provide names of suppliers of head bolts and a head gasket for my 1950 Chieftain? Engine is the original 268 c.i 8 cylinder. Started to increase temperature a week ago and the radiator suddenly got damaged, leaking in several parts at the top welding. After inspecting at a shop it seems the head gasket is also showing some leaks. I was advised to replace the head gasket in addition to fixing the radiator. I found a few business selling gaskets but none selling head bolts for this engine. Hope some of you can advise on where to buy them.Thanks ! Manuel
  8. Does any of you know where I can look for a pair of door moldings for my 1950 two door sedan? (part # 4561602), they measure 47" long and are for body style 2511D. CPR not offerering them, and nothing on e-bay for the last 2 months. I contacted Joe Curtis who seems to have many of these items but he doesn't carry them either. They are unique for the 2 door cars. Any input appreciated. Thanks. Manuel
  9. My 1950 2 door sedan. An old restoration, mechanically perfect, everything works fine, 8 cyl engine very smooth and reliable. Driven and enjoyed regularly. Manuel
  10. Thanks Bill and Charles. Body style is a 2 door sedan, not a coupe (see photo). Is the side trim of same design and width for 49-52 cars? For instance, below is a front fender trim I just purchased from e bay which is from a 1950 car. Next to it is the door trim from a 2 door 1952 car that is offered currently on e-bay. This one is 1.5 inches wide and its shape seems different than the one from 1950. Of course all trim needs to be of same design not only of same length. Do you know if they differ in this regards from 1949-52? Manuel
  11. Hello all. Good to post back after a couple of years. This is my 1950 2 door sedan. It is a Standard but I love chrome so much that I am considering adding the Deluxe body moldings. The problem I have is that looking at the rear fenders I wonder if they are indeed the original ones. The 2 rounded silver emblems with the Pontiac head plus the housing where they go are not found in 1950. Can you tell what year this fender is? Is it from a different year (1951, 52? 53). I don't have any information on how the car was restored years back and perhaps the fenders were replaced using a donor from a different model. If indeed the fenders are not 1950, how do I know which stone shield and other moldings to look for? Appreciate any comments. Thank you all. Manuel
  12. Thanks to all. Very helpful information. It seems than I can go ahead and use the truck engine on my 1929 tourer. I was concerned with the notion of "overpowering" this small car with a truck engine. The 194 engine in cars was 50 HP. Is that the same for 1929 trucks? . Manuel
  13. OK. This is the story: I got this 1929 Chevy 4 door tourer missing the engine. After intense search I found a 1929 6 cyl engine from a Chevrolet truck. I don´t have an original car´s engine to compare but pictures seem basically identical for both engines . Most of these trucks seem had the 194 c.i. engines. I have the transmission. So, my main question is if this truck engine will be a direct fit into the car ? Are these engines identical? It does not seem logical to have the same engine for both trucks and cars. This is the casting on the block, lower part, next to distributor: (have no other identifiction available) 835501 B - 19 9 {chevy sign} 6 If this engine will not fit, what about a 4 cylinder original early 1920s? Will that fit without modifications? Any help appreciated. Manuel
  14. Great comments and a lot of useful information. Thanks. Can a 1929 have wooden wheels? This car has no engine and can´t rely on that to identify the year. I do have and old 4 cyl chevy engine from the mid 1920s. Do you know if that will fit in a 1929 model?
  15. I just spotted this Chevy in a shop in South America. It is a 4 door touring car in need of complete restoration. All identification plates are gone. It has many similarities with 1928 model pictures I found online. One significant difference is the windshield which is a single piece instead of two. Also the rear has no room for a spare tire. The steering wheel is on the right side, wheels are wooden type. Is this a common model or something worth restoring? I attached several pictures for your review. Hope they show well. Thanks to all who can comment. Manuel