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NZ Buick

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  1. Quick update, new crossmember is coming along slowly but surely.
  2. I agree that the longevity of a ball bearing in that application may not be any good but I’m of the opinion that with the tension of the valve springs in an old engine like this being relatively low (compared to modern engines) I have decided to give it a go anyway. My hope is that the shim washers I have used either side of the bearing are of a size that shouldn’t allow any balls to fall out into the sump and if I keep a close eye on valve clearances I will hopefully be able to catch one if it fails before it is too late!
  3. Yes that was me you sent the carb to. It took plenty of soaking and a bit of heat to get apart but after a thorough clean out I’m hoping it will be good to go now! I just have to get an O ring for the adjustment needle in the bottom as I hear this is the way to remedy leaks.
  4. After sitting a week with as much tension on it that I can safely apply it still hasnt budged! Unfortunately it is quite worn and I do need to remove it to repair it. I will try to remove the complete rear housing and press it off hopefully without breaking it!
  5. I have removed the retaining nut and big square washer from the end of the shaft and was expecting it to slide off but it appears to be extremely tight! I have it under constant tension with the puller in the hope it will release of its own accord but if not I will have to remove the rear housing and press it off as suggested above.
  6. Has anybody got any magic tricks to remove the universal yoke from the output shaft of the transmission? I cannot get mine to budge!
  7. Well with the engine to a stage that I’m happy with it I have moved onto stripping, cleaning and painting the chassis so I can soon have something to bolt it into! I have removed the first cross member ready to use as a pattern to make a new one and while I source some suitable steel to do so I have started dismantling the gearbox so I can give it a thorough clean out. Does anybody have suggestions as to how the rear universal yoke is removed from the square output shaft of one of these gearboxes? I have removed its retaining nut and washer but can’t seem to be able to remove the yoke!
  8. Another milestone reached, valve gear is all installed and have set the clearances to .005” I will check it again after some running and adjust it where needed. I had a great deal of trouble trying to free up the solid rollers on the lifters so they would spin smooth and freely and was worried about damaging cam lobes so have managed to find a ball bearing of very similar dimensions that I have managed to graft into place. Will be interesting to see if this is a success or not! Starter generator is dummied up so I can drill my water pump shaft for the coupling with the required clearance. Mani
  9. And here it is all sealed up ready to be turned upright and have all the valve gear installed. What are people setting their valve clearances at on these engines??
  10. The generator itself doesn’t know what voltage it is. in a constant current charging system like this it’s the battery that is used to hold the voltage down at 6 volts if there was no battery or load on the system a generator is typically capable of producing 40-50 volts sometimes more sometimes less. The windings for 6 volt are twice as heavy and half as long as 12 volt as a general rule of thumb therefore the armature windings etc are more than capable of producing 12 volt but the field winding is half the length/resistance that it should be for a 12 volt unit which could cause it to heat up
  11. The starter generator should have no worries operating on 12 volts I may limit it’s field current with a resistor on the generator side if it is too high but the starter side will just run on 12 volts as it is only used for short bursts.
  12. yes I am converting to 12 volts to make the electronic ignition work. I have basically just grafted the top half of a falcon distributor onto the Buick one making sure I do everything in such a way that I don’t have to modify the Buick parts so should I have to I can return everything back to factory with ease.
  13. Ah perfect! That answers everything for me! I was wondering why the 7 degree mark is ATDC on the flywheel. I have used the Hall effect ignition pick up out of a mid 90’s ford falcon distributor inside of mine as a trigger and have also made the falcon cap and rotor fit. For the ignition module I have just used an external Bosch type European hall triggered module. I have used these components as they’re all readily available and very affordable here at the moment.
  14. So I’m gathering from these comments and from the marks on the flywheel which I have now found that the base timing setting for these engines is 7 degrees? I will be making up a piston stop and using it to confirm my true TDC no.1/6 and will time up my distributor from there. It will be slightly different for me as I have modified my distributor internally so it has electronic ignition rather than contact breaker points but the correct timing setting will still be the same I will just fine tune it with a vacuum gauge once I’m happy everything is ok.
  15. Is it correct that the timing gears are marked with one dot on the crank gear that aligns in between two dots on the cam gear? With these lined up like so it appears to me looking at the cam lobes that cylinder one is beginning it’s intake stroke and cylinder six is just past TDC on its power stroke. In other engines I have mucked around with the timing gear marks are usually a true TDC.
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