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Robert Engle

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About Robert Engle

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  1. No. There are different panels for 50, 60, 80/90 as well as the 56c and 96c, Right hand drive cars are also different. Some of the dash trim panels are also different after a mid year change. Bob Engle
  2. One common error that has shown up on a number of 32 Buicks that have had an engine rebuild is that the fly wheel is mounted to the crankshaft with 6 studs that are equally spaced. The fly wheel can be put on in 6 different positions. Murphy's law says you have a high probability of getting it wrong. Set the engine to TDC as per the reference manual instructions and if you don't see the timing marks in the window, the flywheel is on wrong. Bob Engle
  3. I think Dean Tryon, who has worked on establishing testing procedures for jetting on the early Marvel carbs, would agree that viscosity needs to be a critical factor in proper jetting for good performance. I think the average owner on these old cars can easily relate to octane changing over the years and changes in performance. Through experience, we have learned that attempts to use the heat system to the heat riser can cause performance issues. Blocking off the exhaust heat to the heat riser eliminates this performance issue variable. Some of the performance issues may be t
  4. It should be negative ground. Look at your battery. The negative terminal should woven, flat non insulated that goes to a bolt on the transmission. The positive cable will be insulated and go to the starter motor. A volt meter on the battery terminals will confirm the polarity. Buicks were negative ground from at least 1916 on. That is my earliest knowledge on Buick electrical systems. Others may confirm earlier dates. Bob Engle
  5. Interestingly, I did find a photo in "The Buick, A complete history" on page 147 of the indianapolis Buick race car with your style oil temp regulator. The book is copywrited so I won't take a photo of that page. Anyone with an antique Buick should have a copy of this book. It's a great read! Bob Engle Bob Engle
  6. 31 Buicks can be a challenge to sort out as there were significant changes made about midyear. I know that early cars had bronze cam bushings which were a problem. They were switched to babbit bearings. Many early cars got replacement engines due to this problem. Of course they also went to new sycncromesh transmissions midyear. My parts book does not have pictures of these components. All I can see are the different part numbers. Bob Engle
  7. Much of the components are diecast metal with pressed in pins for pivots. Extreme care must be exercised to not break a diecast part. lapping in the seats for the valve mechanisms is important. Bob Engle
  8. That is some homemade replacement. The appearance is the same on the units for 1931 and 1932. However the series are all of a different size and are not interchangeable. I highly recommend removing the core as they can leak and transfer water into the oil system or oil into the water system. These regulators were to heat or cool the oil depending on the outside temperature. With modern multi viscosity oils, there is no need for the heat exchanger. I coat the entire inside with JB Weld to protect the cover from rusting through. Bob Engle
  9. Use plastigage to check your bearing to crank clearance. Rough rule is .001" per journal diameter. Bob Engle
  10. With the handle on the lower glass on the bottom, it seems intuitive that you would pull the bottom inward to get fresh air. Bob Engle
  11. I'm not saying it's correct, only that my 17D45 has the rubber mounted on the bottom glass with the lip facing up against the outside of the upper glass. That's the way it was when I bought the car. Bob Engle
  12. Photo numbers are mixed up. I am a computer idiot. Also, I do not see any way for differential fluid to get to the axle bearings. They are lubed with grease and added through the hole in the outer wheel flange. If differential fluid gets past the baffle, it is supposed to drain out the pipe tube. All of the above is based on my 1917D45 knowledge. Bob Engle
  13. I don't know if your modern vehicle is like my 17 D45? I took photos of my junk differential housing. Photo 2 shows screwdriver extending into the brake area. photo3 shows the baffle in the axle tube that is to prevent heavy flow of fluid into the brake area. Photo 1 shows screwdriver inserted in drain hole. BobEngle
  14. After seeing the above solutions, I decided to make my own attempt. I took a sheetmetal screw and ran it into the top oil hole. The cap was pushed out with minimal damage to the cap. I proceeded to remove all 24 caps with damage to about 4 that may require replacements. Thanks for your ideas and encouragement. Bob Engle
  15. I just looked at your photos. the one showing the back plate on the transmission does show the two holes. there are four studs that that hold the back plate to the case. Just below the bottom studs you can see a boss on the casting with a hole in it. I believe if you look you will see that they are threaded. I'm sure you won't be tearing your gearbox apart as it is in excellent condition. the one I tore apart had oil that was thicker than grease. It would not flow flow out with the top removed and the the gearbox turned upside down. The junk chassis that it came off of sat in a shed in
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