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Robert Engle

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  1. I've had good luck with the nitrphyl floats in My 18 and 32. I keep a block handy just in case a friend needs a float. I've also had good luck marking the inside of the bowl about 1/16" below the idle jet tip. Setting the float level to that mark has worked for me. Bob Engle
  2. I can't tell you what it is, but it is not a 1932 Buick lense. They 9 15/16" in diameter. Being a larger diameter, It probably is earlier than 1932. Bob Engle
  3. On the 32 engines I have worked with, I have found that removing the rear head bolts ( at #8 cylinder) and rodding and flushing through these bolt holes is important. Bob Engle
  4. Check with the model A ford parts suppliers. Macs, Snyders, Bratton. Bob Engle
  5. I thought I would share some experience with 32-50 rear axles. They are made from forgings. The general surface of the shafts are really rough and you can often see occlusions into the shaft. The axles are held in place with a C washer inside the differential gears. With the high gear ratios on these cars the axle can be subjected to torque spikes and the axles will stress crack. The entire wheel can then exit the car. The other design feature is that the outer roll cage bearings are inboard of the wheel center line, so the axle will flex and this also can lead to axle failure. The brake drums are held in place by means of a tapered axle shaft and a key. If the brake drums are not tightly torqued onto the axle, the drums will work loose and wear the taper on the axle and drum. The key will be the only thing keeping the wheel from spinning on the shaft. The key will fret and wallow out the keyways. This means finding new axles and drums. Many jackleg repairs were made with shimstock and step keys in an attempt to keep the cars on the road. On the grease seals, the good news is that you can find modern seals that will fit in the seal retainer. If any of the above failures occurred, the seal retainer has probably been damaged and will need replacing. Bob Engle
  6. my17-d45 unrestored but worked on over it's life, has stops on front doors and none on the back. The top of the back seat is painted black metal. the bottom is glued onto the seatback and appears to be the same as the door panels. Bob Engle
  7. In my opinion, the real key to torqueing cylinder heads is to torque in small increments, I usually start at about 25 ft-lbs, starting near the center and working circularly till all are done. then I torque again at 35ft-lbs circularly again. I keep working up in increments until the final desired torque is reached. Then after running the engine to get it warm, do one final check. The torque settings are also dependent on using the original correct grade of headbolts. Too many people think a grade 8 bolt is better than the original grade. The purpose of torqueing the bolts is to get the correct stretch in the bolts so they maintain tension throughout all operating conditions. Bob Engle
  8. 1932 50 series axles are the same, left and right. late 31 50 series cars use the same axles as 1932 50 series. Early 31 series cars use different axles. Bob Engle
  9. PM me, I think I have some spares on the shelf. Will double check tomorrow. Bob Engle
  10. I bought a 1917 D45 several years ago. I love driving the car and people like seeing the valvetrain in action. Some issues that seem to be common with the teens Buicks; I had to replace the differential gears as I found metal chips when I changed fluids; The band brakes can be problematic. Getting the outer bands to fit properly takes some real patience. The cone clutch may need attention if it hasn't been well cared for. I had to rebuild the carb, nytrile float, and a good cleaning and it works well. Lots of grease cup lubrication points all over the car. I dropped the pan and reshimmed the bearings and cleaned the oil pump and oil distribution tube. this is not a difficult job. Take a good look at the wiring. I replaced most but it is a simple system. There are a fair number of these teens Buicks and a lot of very helpful people to answer questions. Parts are moderately available for the consumables. Other than that, they are about the same challenges that you would find with the 30's Buicks. Bob Engle
  11. The tapping noise you hear may be your fuel pump as it cycles at camshaft speed. Bob Engle
  12. The more photos I see, the more I can see the quality of the restoration. The Sandoz clock is a $500 to $700 value. That being said, If anyone plans to show the car, There will be a lot of work to get many things correct. I'm not trying to degrade the car, but it will most likely not get a senior AACA award. From the engine bay, I see several zirk fittings that were not correct for 1932. Most likely the undercarriage will have the same issue. I see a spiral loc clamped rubber hose to the fuel pump' This would have been a compression fitting brass line. The same for the for the oil filter hoses. These also would have brass fittings and tubing These upgrades make it easier to maintain, but they will take points away on a judged car. It will come down to what the buyer wants with the car and is willing to pay for. Bob Engle
  13. In the end result, it comes down to a willing buyer and a willing seller. It's a tough business to buy antique cars and expect to sell them for a profit. Some people see a car and fall in love with it and are willing to pay what's needed to own the car. The other thing to remember, almost any car, except one off a quality restoration will require some $ to get it into a good running condition. New tires, tubes and flaps for the 57S will cost $1,500. Bob Engle
  14. It's a nice looking car. The 50 series were the low end of the spectrum in 1932. There were 9,766 57S models built in 1932, (a relatively high number). To be considered a concourse restoration, all details must be exacting in correctness and condition. From the few photos posted, I noticed that it lacks pinstriping, The black painted trim rings on the hubcaps are missing. The front and rear upholstery appear different colors (may be photo color fidelity. It would be a good AACA senior award car. In my estimation from the few photos and with no photos of the engine compartment, I would consider the price range to be $10,000 to $15,000. A scarce model or large series car with low production numbers would fetch a much higher amount. Bob Engle
  15. I use 10-40 in my 32 Buick. Just watch your oil pressure. If it drops when warm, increase the oil weight. Some people switch to synthetics, but I prefer to change the oil regularly. Bob Engle
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