Robert Engle

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About Robert Engle

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  1. There are several companies that demo woodgraining at Hershey every year. they sell the kits and paints to do the process. I also know a restorer that does his own by prepping the metal parts, base coat painting and then coating the surface with oil base paint used for artist oil painting. After coating the parts, he uses various material to remove the oil base paint. Tooth picks, crumpled newspaper, and matches are some of his tools. after he is satisfied with the appearance he lets the parts sit until the paint has hardened and then he clear coats them. His results are outstanding!! several of his cars have won their class at AACA grand national events. Bob Engle
  2. My 32 Buick is grounded the same way. soldered to the body sheet metal. Bob Engle
  3. The back side of the plated bumper to be correct, should be painted black as well as the brackets. Many show cars do not have the backs painted black, but for the most part, judges don't know what is correct. From my previous conversations with you on your car, I don't think chrome plating will add much to the appearance or value. Bon Engle
  4. To each his own, but for me, I would have to see what's inside before I would spend $1500. I haven't done anything with the big series shocks, but the 50 series are simple, need no special tools and usually only need a seal on the lever shaft and new oil. Bob Engle
  5. The Lovejoy shocks are relatively easy to disassemble. You may find that there is relatively little wrong with the mechanism that a good cleaning and fresh fluids may get them operational again. Generally the seals are the most difficult components to find and replace. On the 50 series shocks, I have removed the seal cups and then put dummy shaft through the cup and then used castable urethane rubber to make new seals that replace the old cork compound seals. I have no experience with the 60,80,90 series shocks, but they don't look very difficult from the sectional views in manual. Taking one apart won't stop you from sending them out for rebuild, but if a cleaning and fresh fluids get them workable, you will save a lot of $$ and time. The shaft seals are all above the working valves and pistons, so while the manuals says to fill them, I keep the level a bit lower so there is less likely hood of leakage at the seal. Bob Engle
  6. I check through the parts manual and the intake gaskets are different for early 31's, late 31's and also 1932. Heat riser and carbs are also different as stated above. Bob Engle
  7. Stanley Spring works, an Eaton division stocks just about any size you want. I bought my front spring leaf, bushings and shackle bolts for my 1917 D45 from their Harrisburg PA plant. Bob Engle
  8. Cracks occur on the head gasket side at the water passages, between the intake and exhaust valve seats and some have broken at the rocker arm stanchions. If you look at your cylinder head, you can see where the head bolts have damaged the surface on the head. Your head bolts will show a tapered wear on them. The head bolt hex is small for the bolt diameter and tightening over the years causes this wear. If not corrected, cracks can occur at this point. I encourage people to add hardened washers on the head bolts. These are commonly available as they are used on most modern aluminum cylinder heads. I also recommend that you put your head bolts in a lathe and cut the bottom of the hex back to a square surface. Bob Engle
  9. It's not the expansion under heat that is a problem. Cast iron has excellent compressive loading. It's the shrinking when cooling that will crack the manifolds. Make sure the manifold surfaces where the washe make contact are smooth. Start light on torque and only go tighter if there is leakage. Bob Engle
  10. Before going to an electric pump, take the fuel line off at the carb and put a pressure gauge on the line. Crank the engine and see what your fuel pressure is. If you have at least 2 #'s of pressure, the next thing is to check the flow rate. Stick the fuel line into a jar and crank the engine again and see how much fuel you get in a given time period. If the flow is adequate for replenishment, then you need to look at why your carb is not accepting fuel at the proper pressure and flow rate. Electric pumps are fine for priming the system and assisting in preventing vapor lock. They won't correct carb problems. In general, there is no reason why the original pump won't keep your car running under normal conditions. Bob Engle
  11. The first photo you posted on this thread has the current limit relay mounted on the dash. Bob
  12. I was sorting through my junk bin looking for some fasteners and I came across the parts I think you want. I didn't find the wire retainer for the socket in the reflector, but I'll keep looking. If you are interested, send me a PM with and address and I'll get them sent. Bob Engle
  13. Whatever you find will most likely need to be rewired as the old insulation will be dry rotted. Bob Engle
  14. That looks like a generator cutout Relay which has a different function than the current limit relay mounted under the dash. The cutout relay is mounted on the generator and has a cover . The current limit relay has no cover. Of course, the fuse holder is not of 32 Buick vintage as they had no fuse in their wiring system. Set up for both relays is detailed in the 32 Buick specs and adjustment manual. Bob Engle
  15. These are easy to fabricate if you can't find one. I have some, but I am not anxious to separate them from my spare headlight assemblies. Bob Engle