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drovak

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  1. I don't mind using a sealant if that's what it needs, but I am certainly more inclined to do what would be more in line with what they would've done at the factory—as long as that means not leaking oil everywhere! I feel like I'm undoing 35 years of small kluges here and there on this car. But at the end of the day, I want the car back together so I can enjoy driving it! Unsurprisingly, the manuals I have for this car don't go into near this kind of detail with respect to seals and other assemblies, so I am hoping a kind soul who has been through their early straight 8 can help!
  2. Where can I get this tapered wedge seal? I don't recall getting such a thing from Olson's, but then again, I wasn't thinking of needing to replace seals all of the way down there!
  3. Dropped the oil pan to look at the strainer and give it a look from the underside. I haven't pulled the strainer yet to see what exactly it's caught. I also noticed someone used some globs of silicone on the cork gasket near the rear main bearing. How would this have looked leaving the factory? It seems as though someone thought the cork wouldn't provide an adequate seal here—maybe from experience?
  4. Good point, Bob. So given the amount of coolant I've found in the oil, and given a little oil in the coolant...I still haven't found what I'd consider a smoking gun. There was a pinhole leak in the oil heat exchanger, and it's not clear to me that the cracks in the head were sufficient to dump such a large quantity of coolant into the oil. I suppose I'll reassemble it and try to lightly pressure test the coolant side to see what happens, unless anyone has other suggestions or places to look.
  5. Yep! Wish I had done that instead of being overly confident in a blown head gasket! Live and learn.
  6. Where are all of the freeze plugs on this engine? I can't seem to find but the two (front and rear) on the head. Where are they on the block?
  7. That makes perfect sense. Thank you, Bob!
  8. I guess finding the tall headed bolts is best left for custom machining or finding used ones? Bolt Depot has the correct size bolts in grade 5, zinc-plated. Am I being overly picky for wanting black oxide instead of zinc? Or should I just slap in 20 or so grade 5 zinc-plated bolts with some washers and call it good enough? When I rebuilt my old Fiat 124 Spider, I was able to find a new bolt set. Trickier the older you go, finding a new, complete set!
  9. One of the venturis is flat on both sides; the other (I assume original) appears to be cast. That said, checking the manual indicates the venturi is asymmetric, and the newer looking one that is flat on both sides does appear to be upside-down. Note the narrow throat of the venturi lines up with the top of the idle jet: In the cast unit, that seems to be the case: In the machined unit, it appears upside-down: Okay, the pictures make it hard to tell, I'll admit; it's easier when you have stereo vision with it in your hands! That's what I thought, and even with it screwed all of the way in, it backfires through the carb. Giving it half choke fixes it right up. Anyways, at this point, I may be fighting an issue that may soon be solved—the rusty heat riser tubes. I hope to have those fixed soon...then it will be time for reassembly and testing. The question that keeps me up at night is, why would pinole leaks give me so many issues upon acceleration and not at idle, like I'd expect? My plugs were quite black, which to me, indicate a pretty rich mixture. And when it's run recently, it's been 98% at idle.
  10. The air valve assembly is loose, yes. I was specifically referring to the metal cylinder with the spring inside that is adjusted with the air screw, which the manual refers to as a "dash-pot." The same thing in similar form exists in the SU carburetors in my MGB (which is lubricated with oil), and most commercial doors that prevent them from slamming shut. Do you think this is too much gap between the walls and the air valves?
  11. Any idea what this is in my '31 8-86? I can't seem to find mention of it in the books, though the cutaways don't show the center of the engine from this side from best I can tell. And to my eyes, it doesn't appear original to the car, but I may be mistaken. As you can see, it sits behind the tappets and is located in the center of the engine. The water inlet runs right above it.
  12. The machine shop found cracks between the bolt holes and the water jacket—seems like that's the same as your block, Bob. They installed brass sleeves in the bolt holes. I'm not sure that will do much more than the silicone on the bolts I found while disassembling, but so it goes. They also drilled and sleeved the valve guides, and took off 0.010" or so from the head surface to get it flat again. Then they repainted my head silver—and didn't do a very good job of it. Now I need to figure out what paint was used before. I suspect it could've been Austin Healey Green from POR-15, though I have no way of knowing for sure. It's pretty dark, from best I can tell. Before: After: My head bolts are showing some corrosion, and one has already been replaced. Where can I find a set of new bolts, and hardened washers while I'm at it? Is there another engine that uses the same 5.5" 7/16"-14 bolts so I can just ask the parts guy at O'Reilly's for a set? I'm not having much luck sourcing them online... McMaster sells them, but they're zinc plated in grade 5.
  13. Just checking again if anyone has any thoughts on the Marvel dashpot. How can one determine if it's functioning correctly? I suspect if the dashpot is slow to move, the mixture will remain richer for longer during acceleration, but will settle out under constant load.
  14. I'm not a very tall person, but I found that I could probably use another couple of inches of legroom more than the seat offers, and perhaps some adjustment of the steering wheel in my 8-86. It seems like someone adjusted the position of the seat before, effectively moving the back stop forward about an inch—notice the three visible drill holes near the rear bracket. The front brackets are touching the upholstery, so some work would have to be done to free up some space to move the two front brackets towards the front of the seat. Any thoughts?
  15. The bolt certainly moves a little, but only a fraction of an inch. That doesn't seem like it would do much, even after "amplified" by the lever arm. This thing also has to overcome the force of the spring (which is missing in my shutter assembly, below), so I'm thinking it's not so good after all. I'll be in touch with Scott and see what he thinks. Good call on the lubrication. I was about to ask about that, as my slats are clearly in need of some. Any reason a little grease couldn't be used after complete disassembly and cleaning?
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