DonMicheletti

Does it go into high OK?, You dont mention that. 2nd and high are on the same sliding sleeve, are operated by the same fork and are on the same shift rail. An un-likely, but possible, issue is that one of the holding screws on the levers operating the shift rail or fork may be loose. But if that was so, high would be a problem too.

I broke that part on my '31. I machined a new one from aluminum and painted it to match the other parts, however, mine was not as oxidised as yours.

alsuncle hit the nail on the head about driving an old car.

That fuel level gage can be a pain to get working correctly, but once done mine was extremely accurate right down to the gallon. I windered about the little wire rods in the "reservoir" at the back of the gage, but I figured they were to calibrate the thing. I believe that was so since the gage was so accurate. The rods varied the volume of the "reservoir". My car was original and the rods were there and proved to be correct. It was 29 years old when I bought it.and still was in use.

Both my '38's have to original bolt that is supposed to act as the stop. You have to be carefull that the prop is correctly placed at that bolt or is likely you'll be hit on th head by the hood. Experience...

If you are worried, drop the pan and check rod and main clearanes. Lots of work, but if clearances are too great, pressure will be low. Howeber, it seems your pressures are OK.

A possible contributor to the problem is if the manifold has been surfaced the clampimg "ears" may not be the same height as the intake. If the is so, both manifolds will not be equally clamped. Re-surfacing only one manifold is a common error. The "ears" have to be the same height on both intake and exhaust manifolds.

Have you tried to really whacked the end of the puller bolt with a heavy sledge? Worked for me.

The "overfill" is an indication that the oil from the transmission is leaking back, past the bearing in the transmission, into the differentian. Not an uncommon problem with Buicks and usually indicates a worn bearing in the trans or U joint ball

Was the wiring British???

Those bearings would be OK for a dump truck - way oversized to accomodate the full floating axle design. About the only thing that will hurt them is lack of grease. You can find them on E Bay at low cost.

Darn, My schematic is a PDF file and it wont attach. I'll see if I can photograph it and saend as a JPG

How many wires are coming out of the switch on the steering column? I believe that is a Auto Lamp 9000 switch. I may have a wiring schematic for it so you can check it out. There would be iether 5 or 7 wires.

Obviously, saving the stud is best, even if you do not replace the nut

Why that "C" clip?. EmTee, you have seen the choke mechanism - why that too? Buick was just taxing our brains in '38.

If Neil has found that you can get away without nuts on the studs, then you probably dont need the studs either. I would consider reaching in with a hacksaw blade and just cut the stud off entirely. That is providing the stud does not provide some sort of alignment. When we worked on Neils latch handle, I did not see the car - only the part.

Old Ford, The simple fact tht it warns you about the issue of taking your eyes off the road to aknowledge the screen shows thet they recognize it as a hazard!!

Grimy, Not adjustiing or inflation is a way to raise taxes without "raising taxes"

I dont have to "look" for a knob, I can feel for it without looking. You cant really do the with a touchscreen - you have to look away from the road to "interface"

No hydrotest required?

Sorry. I had the "wrinkly" wheel and I only added the "ears"

The bigger engines do have a rope seal in '38. Specials dont

On the rods. First measure the diameter od the throws in several places to see if the crank is out of round (probably is). A minor amount is OK. In setting the rods, after you set the clearance on each rod, rotate the crank a few turns to see if there are tight spots. If you set all the rods and then check, if youhave a tight spot, you wont know which one it is.

One of the very important items is the clearance between the gears and the pump cover. Check to be sure it is within specification using plastigage if you have not already done it..

It is a lot of fun getting the shock retaining "C" clips on. I ended up doing mine in a press with a fixture