cjmarzoli

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About cjmarzoli

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  • Birthday 12/17/1972

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  1. Hi Ben Thanks for the comments. I agree with your assessment on the proportions of my car. It is hard to beat the look of a circa 1930-33 4 door 6 window standard sedan. Even though they were usually the cheapest and most “common” body style I like them the best. There don’t seem to be too many like mine that haven’t been “gussied up” over the years. I’ve seen pictures of some that are two tone bright metallic colors with wide whitewalls and add on chrome accessories and they look silly. Mine is probably how most of them looked back when they were new or late model cars, so it has a certain charm like that. My tire are “multiple size” tires. They say “4.75, 5.00, 5.50, 6.50”. They are clearly closer to the smaller of those two sizes than the larger. The 60 series came with a 6.00 tire but I think I’m going to go with a 6.50 tire which the 80 series came with and that was essentially the same car with the same wheels on a 6” longer wheelbase. My assumption is that my wheels were originally painted black as they are now, but I think they would have been a smoother finish with a painted red stripe on the spokes. I think someone has sand blasted them in the past and accentuated the grains in the wood (oak?). My plan was to sand or strip them and then fill in the grain and repaint them black. I do not intend to leave them natural because I generally am not a fan of natural spokes and I don’t think it would be correct for the car. I also don’t intend to disassemble them as the seem solid. My quandary is what to fill the grain of the spokes with to make them smooth again before I paint. Alternatively I could go to a different style of wheel (wire, disc). I also like the Olds you picture better with the painted wheels.
  2. My car has the standard wood wheels. They are in good shape but very drab and the spokes are rough due to the grain of the wood. Also my tires are old and too small. I’m considering my options, which are: restore these wheels and get new tires, or upgrade to another style wheel and possibly procure a set with good tires already on them. It’s my understanding that the three other types of 1931 wheels used the 5 lug style hubs so I would have to change hubs to run those wheels. How difficult is that to do and how many parts have to be changed? Would the brakes or drums have to be changed? Would any other brand GM wheels from this vintage be “plug and play” on my Buick? If I restore my existing wheels, what would they have looked like when new? My thought is that the spokes would have been smooth and painted black and had a painted pin stripe on them (red, to match the stripe on my all-black car). What is the recommended way to smooth out the spokes? Sand to bare wood and fill with what? (wood filler? Fiberglass body filler?, spot putty?) Or just build up coats of primer and paint and sand? Would the optional trim rings that go behind the hub caps work on my wheels or do they only fit on “trim ring” Artillery wood wheels? If so, anyone have a source for them? If anyone has a set of 5 lug wheels and hubs, be they wire, disk, or artillery, with or without tires on them (prefer with), I would be interested. Thoughts, advice and opinions welcomed! Thanks!
  3. Don't know if you made a buying decision yet but all things equal, I would vastly favor the car with wires and high speed gears (do you know the ratio?). With standard gearing (4.00 or above) these cars will really wind up at cruising or highway speeds. (anything above 40 MPH). I can't imagine driving one daily but I guess it would depend on the particular car and how well sorted it was. What did you end up buying, or are you still weighing options?
  4. I forgot to mention in my last post that after a test drive AFTER cleaning the rocker arm there was a little more oil splashed on the underside of the valve cover and the valvetrain, but not much. The oil cooler has been addressed. After i first go the car running, i noticed antifreeze in the crank case oil. I took the cooler apart and determined there was a leak in the core and the coolant was getting into the oil. I did not see any evidence that oil was getting into the coolant however. I searched online and found nothing on repairing the core or replacing it. I sandblasted the inside of the chamber, eliminated the core, removed the bottom oil input plate off the core and used it as a mount and fabricated a new U shaped pipe out of copper for the oil to run through. So the intercooler is still functioning but instead of the core it just has a pipe inside the box. No leaks and no signs of mixing since the repair. I was getting the same oil pressure readings before and after the cooler repair.
  5. Update: I removed the rocker shaft, completely disassembled it and cleaned everything. Rockers were very tight on the shaft. Some of them would barely pivot by hand, the remainder were quite reluctant to pivot. Must have been consuming a lot of HP just to move those rocker arms. Did not find any extreme sludge or blocked holes but a small bit of goo. Blew air both ways thru rear feed line (input entering right side of block by filter) and front line (going down to timing gear- one way blow on this one). Everything seemed clear. Soaked in gas and blew out holes on rocker arms. Submerged naked rocker shaft in trough of gasoline for an hour and shook and blew out. Some black chunks came out. Re assembled. Started car up and drove. Not much change. 25 PSI oil pressure at idle, 30 PSI at anything above idle. (On factory dash gauge) Is this within the normal range? Oil filter is plumbed correctly. Did not remove “T” fitting out of block to oil filter and gauge, nervous about damaging it or the oil pressure gauge line. Pretty much everything else has been checked other than the main feed lines off the pump in the sump. Am I correct in assuming that if the “T” fitting was severely blocked the oil pressure gauge would not be getting a reading? A concern is that I do have a light “knocking” noise in the front end of the engine while running. It is not audible immediately at startup but starts after about 1 minute of running. I used a stethoscope and was not able to determine its source but it does not seem to be inside the block and others have listened to it and felt it was not a main bearing or internal knock. It does not sound like valvetrain noise to me. Any ideas as to what this could be and if low oil pressure is still a concern? Thank you.
  6. Does anyone know- when removing the rocker shaft, must the nuts on top of all the pushrods be removed from the pushrods and the pushrods be left in the block, or can the rocker shaft and pushrods be lifted off as a unit then each rocker arm and pushrod be slid off the end of the shaft as a unit once it it off the engine? Tony references the shaft being "indexed" correctly. How is this achieved upon re installation in the engine? thanks.
  7. While we are sort of on the subject, the stream of oil from this weep hole I’m pointing at runs down on the insert (I’ll call it a cup) that is pressed into the side of the engine around each spark plug. (that each spark plug goes through to enter the threads) Some of this oil seems to be leaking through somewhere and puddling in the bottom OUTSIDE of this insert (under the hex head of the spark plug). I am getting a tiny bit of oil in two of the other spark plug cups but quite a bit in the front one. Is this a known issue? What is the remedy? What is the purpose of these cups around the spark plugs and can they be removed?
  8. Thank you all. Is the front “weep hole” I am pointing to where the oil is designed to come out to lubricate the timing gears or is it the tube going down in front of this that is supposed to deliver it to the timing gears? Can I simply unbolt the rocker arm, clean and blow it out, blow out the input and output tubes on each end, and bolt it back on or will subsequent adjustment be needed after installation? Tony , you refer to some springs with different numbers of coils. Do you mean the ones around the rocker shaft? If so I guess I would just need to keep them all in proper sequence. I can disconnect the oil filter line into the right rear side of the block (which feeds the tube that runs up to the rear of the rocker shaft) and then blow through or run a wire through that line both ways. Then could blow or insert wire down the ”output” line that runs down into the front of the engine correct? Would that ensure the full system is clear? Any other oil lines or passages to check?
  9. I have a 1931 Model 60 that sat for 25 years. Recently got it running again. Dropped pan, cleaned all the sludge I could get to. Installed new modern style spin on oil filter, refilled with clean new oil. Is showing 30-35 PSI oil pressure on the gauge at any engine RPM above a low idle. Valvetrain seems very “dry” to me. Virtually no oil is splashing on the underside of valve cover. Rocker shaft etc. has no fresh oil on it. There is a hole in the center of each rocker arm- should oil be pumping out of each one? None is. There is quite a bit of oil flowing out of one hole at the very front of the valvetrain and dribbling down. (I’m pointing to it in one of the pics) That is basically it for any noticeable oil being splashed around while running. Is this normal or do I have an oil distribution issue here? If so, any ideas as to the cause? Thanks! Link to video of it running: https://www.icloud.com/attachment/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fcvws.icloud-content.com%2FB%2FAdsFoU-NMvu4rf3GwPoQvukZ1htFAUQ235MR4119hkuL5t2whpShi3DQ%2F%24{f}%3Fo%3DAoZDXAGIidFFnf_Yl0UFFzQd6VdTJsAUdqEGnVDh7JCO%26v%3D1%26x%3D3%26a%3DCAogKMa_FwTB_A7kDLI-DolV3gh4-HLUgeRCdFBDOSRSCAwSJxCEypal2C0YhNqR-eEtIgEAKggByAD_WYAKfFIEGdYbRVoEoYtw0A%26e%3D1572480511%26k%3D%24{uk}%26fl%3D%26r%3D71E5D4E7-DBBD-405D-BA2B-7A4632D573C4-1%26ckc%3Dcom.apple.largeattachment%26ckz%3D3EC1D1DF-F22A-4FA4-B5B7-3AB5D455EE9C%26p%3D22%26s%3Dq2GFjJDB579PDKUbPj-AgQMwzks&uk=vZmhjbr5_zm0EVPMGwT-yw&f=IMG_2150.MOV&sz=70855352
  10. One other issue of note while timing: Depending on your vantage point, where the timing marks fall on the bell housing change quite a bit. If you are standing up over the mark and get it lined up and then kneel or lower your vantage point. the line on the flywheel "moves up" visually as you lower your eyes. Depending on how high or low your head is, this can make quite a difference. Does anyone know the recommended eye position for performing this task? I ended up doing it by setting my eye level as close to the level of the index mark on the bell housing as possible. I basically set my chin on the splash apron.
  11. I'm back again, with another question on my '31 Buick Model 67. I noticed while i had the rear end jacked up to change the differential fluid, that if you pull straight out on each rear tire there is a bit of play. The tire, wheel, and axle will pull straight out. There is no wobble or apparent bearing play it is just lateral play in and out. I would say is was approximately 1/16" on the left side and somewhere between 1/16" and 1/8" on the right side. Is this normal? Something to be concerned about? If so how could i correct it? thank you!
  12. I have a 1931 Series 60. Nowhere in the manuals can i find the specified fluid or capacities for the transmission or the rear axle. What do others use or recommend? thank you