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1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)


Gary W

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Saturday September 9, 2017:  A Lesson on Wet Sanding / Buffing

 

I stopped by the shop this morning around 10:30.  The paint has been curing for a couple days.  Bob came down just so I could photograph the next steps:  The wet sanding and buffing of the clear coat.  It was very nice of him to come in on a Saturday and let me photograph the steps he takes to finish the paint.  I thought I would share it with you because I found it very interesting.  (Although, at the beginning I could hardly look at my new paint getting sanded!)  

Bob focused on one part, the panel between the rear windows.  This spot reflected the fluorescent lights in the photos and was easy to show the progression.

 

 

Here goes!

 

 

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10:30 am.  After two days cure time, you can see the "orange peel" in the reflection.  Bob ran through all the steps on this panel of the car.

 

 

 

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With a bucket of soapy water nearby, Bob uses a 1200 grit paper to start knocking down the high spots.

 

 

 

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Cringe-worthy for sure watching your brand new paint job getting sanded!  Over 55 years experience tells him when to stop and check the progress.

 

 

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He stops sanding and uses a squeegee to remove the water.

 

 

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When it dries, you can clearly see there are still peaks and valleys in the paint.

This will require a little more wet sanding.

 

 

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Just to demonstrate what the next round of wet sanding accomplishes, Bob only did the part closest to the rear window.

He left the panel behind the back (side) window alone.

 

 

 

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Again, the squeeze is utilized, but only on the area he just re-sanded.  (For demonstration purposes only)

 

 

 

 

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As the "second - sanded" section dries, this angle clearly shows the difference between the single-sanded and the double-sanded areas.

At this point you can actually feel the difference with your hand between the two areas.

(NOTE:  This is the "milky" stuff that comes off when the clear is sanded.  This is the reason he's doing the interior rubberized undercoat after the sanding step.)

 

 

 

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Again, this angle highlights the remaining "orange peel" vs. the side that was sanded twice.

 

 

 

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OK.  Now the whole panel is wet sanded around the drip rail, the window reveal and although it feels smooth, this is hard to look at!!

 

 

 

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Now dry, and taking on a "grey" look (except for my hand prints in there), it's time for the machine compound.

 

 

 

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Here Bob uses  "spurs" to clean the buffing wheel before he uses it.

 

 

 

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His compound of choice for the first cut.

 

 

 

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Same 3M stuff, just poured into an easier to use squeeze bottle.  Here Bob applies the compound to the freshly sanded surface.

 

 

 

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He started in the back at a low RPM.  The machine is variable speed and a gentle touch won't burn the paint.  Here he's demonstrating how he gets into the window reveals.

You can see the back panel already got the machine treatment.

 

 

 

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As he progresses, you can watch the lustre coming up!  All of a sudden the reflection of the fluorescent lamps is clearing up.

 

 

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Finished machine polishing the section.

 

 

 

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Again, after machine polish.   Not done yet.

 

 

 

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His next step is to use a damp rag with the SAME 3M Rubbing Compound to hand rub the body.  He works it damp until the lustre gets even better!

Then he uses a clean, dry rag to finish.

 

 

 

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OK.  Here we are after the hand rubbing and the paint is looking great!!!

 

 

 

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A close-up of the area treated.  

Not done yet.

The car gets this wet sanding, machine compounding, hand compound from the roof down to the bottom.

Then, after the entire body is done, the final step is:

 

 

 

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This 3M product. (I forgot to ask if it is applied by hand or machine....)

 

So the schedule is begin wet sanding the roof Monday, hopefully the whole body is rubbed out by Wednesday.

Then spray the rubberized undercoat to the interior and trunk.

Then a final rub / buff with this glaze and on Sunday, September 17,  I'll take the body back to my garage!

 

 

 

BEFORE AND AFTER:   (45 minute transition this morning from 10:30 to 11:15)

 

 

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Clearly see how the orange peel is gone!

 

 

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Just a different angle of the treated area.

 

 

I worked a few hours finishing up some final details for the interior.  Cleaning, painting the dash screws, seat hardware,  floor pans, pedal plates...

It's a lot but all coming together!

I'm putting my Model "A"'s back into storage tomorrow to start getting the garage organized for the Buick.

 

 

Have a great evening!

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

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Gary, I am still in the tear down stage of my restoration but it is encouraging to continue to see your progress. You continue to keep me inspired to keep plugging away at my project. I still have a long way to go before I will even start considering paint but I look forward to the day that I can start seeing your project ending and mine getting closer to that point. 

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Sunday September 10, 2017:  Repair the horn contact that mounts on the steering column

 

 

Busy day.  I got both my Model "A" Fords into storage.  Then worked a couple of hours cleaning the garage finalizing and prioritizing for the build.  I'm trying to be sure I don't forget any steps along the way.  So, I figured the steering column will be installed soon, I decided I better repair the horn contact that mounts to the column.  My contact has a broken insulator, so here is what I did with it:

 

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This contact button mounts on the steering column and that little spring loaded button contacts a brass ring inside.  

My contact had a broken insulator, and I was afraid it may soon short out.

 

 

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Another angle of the broken insulator.

 

 

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First I cut a drinking straw, then made a slice to open it up.  My thought was that this will prevent the epoxy from getting to the spring mechanism inside.

 

 

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Heres the straw carefully tucked around the spring, but inside the bakelite insulator.

 

 

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I used this stuff.  Once the straw was in, I used a Q-tip to carefully clean the area.

 

 

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After kneading the putty, I used a very small amount and placed it into position.  Then I used the Q-tip once more to begin shaping the soft putty.

 

 

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One I was satisfied that the crack was filled and smooth, I put it aside for a few hours to cure.

 

 

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Once it's cured, I pressed on the spring which actually lifted the straw up and I teased it out with a sharp blade.

Then I sanded the area very lightly to get rid of the boogers.

 

 

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Touched it up with an artists brush dipped in Trim Black and the repair is complete.

The spring works easily and I'm going to paint it to match the brown column.

 

 

Have a good night

Gary

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Sunday September 10, 2017:   Water Pump and some photos of the Chassis

 

 

I bought a new water pump from Dave Tachney and sent it out for a complete rebuild.  I'm going to paint it tonight and mount it tomorrow.  The reason is that although my original water pump did not leak, squeak or make any noises, please look at the angle of the pulley.  It appears that the pulley (or the shaft inside) is not plumb.  There is no wobble at all,  it's just at an angle.  Look at these photos.  When I studied the fan belt I removed from the car, it was severely worn on one side only.  

 

 

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Look at the angle the pulley sits.  The gap from the water pump housing to the top of the pulley is much, much wider than the lower gap.

 

 

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So that forward edge of the belt was shredded.  I was told these original pumps can't be rebuilt??  

So I'll install the newly rebuilt unit tomorrow.  

 

 

 

 

 

Chassis photos:

 

 

This was my goal:

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Just love this old stuff.

So, after spending hours cleaning up and organizing, I really wanted to try to duplicate this photo.

I'll never have this opportunity to photograph the chassis bare after the body is mounted so I wanted to try to get some photos.

 

 

 

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Here we are right after cleaning up the garage.  The Buick now has the floor space so I can work around it easy.

BUT... The photo has the steering column installed, so, to try to capture the photo I HAD to install the column!

 

 

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I love the contrast of the brown column, the cream wheel...  You have to admit, these Buick chassis are a work of art!

 

 

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I placed the wheel in position.  The whole thing looks so great together!

 

 

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I cannot wait to get behind the wheel.

 

 

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Guess who's getting his license in 3 weeks?

 

 

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I have to take it back out to mount the body, but for now, I love looking at it all together.

 

 

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The Buick ad looks so much better.  They didn't have four kids!

 

 

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Here we are tonight.  I'm going through the entire chassis this week.  I will tighten up all the brake lines, run a ground wire to the fuel sending unit, replace the water pump...

 

 

 

 

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Tried to duplicate the ad.  It's at a tough angle.

 

 

 

 

 

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March 10, 2017  to September 10, 2017.  

 

 

 

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Tomorrow is exactly 8 months since I removed the first bumper bolts and began this project.

 

 

 

Have a great evening, and thanks for following along!

 

Gary
 

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Really have enjoyed watching your amazing progress from the beginning.  Gives me inspiration and motivation to make progress on my '37 Special, along with a lot of helpful information.  Wonderful job of documenting and sharing your work.  Now if I could only figure out how to come anywhere near the speed of your progress.

Bill

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9 hours ago, Gary W said:

Sunday September 10, 2017:   Water Pump and some photos of the Chassis

 

 

I bought a new water pump from Dave Tachney and sent it out for a complete rebuild.  I'm going to paint it tonight and mount it tomorrow.  The reason is that although my original water pump did not leak, squeak or make any noises, please look at the angle of the pulley.  It appears that the pulley (or the shaft inside) is not plumb.  There is no wobble at all,  it's just at an angle.  Look at these photos.  When I studied the fan belt I removed from the car, it was severely worn on one side only.  

 

 

DSC_0220.thumb.jpg.21ddf86accd94229ecac8d87f0a82d82.jpg

Look at the angle the pulley sits.  The gap from the water pump housing to the top of the pulley is much, much wider than the lower gap.

 

 

DSC_0223.thumb.jpg.e1115a3e445bd8fd929f5403413f20d9.jpg

So that forward edge of the belt was shredded.  I was told these original pumps can't be rebuilt??  

So I'll install the newly rebuilt unit tomorrow.  

 

 

 

 

 

Chassis photos:

 

 

This was my goal:

59b5de6fe66af_ScreenShot2017-09-05at7_15_18AM.thumb.png.4e1fbb6a0c7e656c62916e03434d7c07.png

Just love this old stuff.

So, after spending hours cleaning up and organizing, I really wanted to try to duplicate this photo.

I'll never have this opportunity to photograph the chassis bare after the body is mounted so I wanted to try to get some photos.

 

 

 

DSC_0235.thumb.jpg.d20d9396ef6de1322b2c613f3573e86f.jpg

Here we are right after cleaning up the garage.  The Buick now has the floor space so I can work around it easy.

BUT... The photo has the steering column installed, so, to try to capture the photo I HAD to install the column!

 

 

DSC_0258.thumb.jpg.4890cacf5b2642f1ca2f2b706e20ccae.jpg

I love the contrast of the brown column, the cream wheel...  You have to admit, these Buick chassis are a work of art!

 

 

DSC_0254.thumb.jpg.ccb003d6649303a047dec3bb9289d6c0.jpg

I placed the wheel in position.  The whole thing looks so great together!

 

 

DSC_0239.thumb.jpg.266a17bcfd0340a0c033c73992352d30.jpg

I cannot wait to get behind the wheel.

 

 

DSC_0240.thumb.jpg.73aeb81d706a6ed58b3ec665d7608cfa.jpg

Guess who's getting his license in 3 weeks?

 

 

DSC_0323.thumb.JPG.81759366a27ee2d6e23ec4f561ca666d.JPG

I have to take it back out to mount the body, but for now, I love looking at it all together.

 

 

DSC_0299.thumb.jpg.ee2dfeedcc66a3d9555acf286dc7175d.jpg

The Buick ad looks so much better.  They didn't have four kids!

 

 

DSC_0319.thumb.jpg.398666aa9e7303002aa8eca065500a8e.jpg

Here we are tonight.  I'm going through the entire chassis this week.  I will tighten up all the brake lines, run a ground wire to the fuel sending unit, replace the water pump...

 

 

 

 

IMG_0791.thumb.JPG.4d005977fb30f88112653cdf034b29d6.JPG

Tried to duplicate the ad.  It's at a tough angle.

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_0777.thumb.JPG.8935e5d83de0f315b4429a9d7df437a5.JPG

March 10, 2017  to September 10, 2017.  

 

 

 

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Tomorrow is exactly 8 months since I removed the first bumper bolts and began this project.

 

 

 

Have a great evening, and thanks for following along!

 

Gary
 

 

You need to be up a little higher to duplicate that picture... Milk crate or step ladder? 

 

And speaking of milk crates... There are those that would bungie one to that chassis and take it out for a spin! 

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23 hours ago, Gary W said:

I bought a new water pump from Dave Tachney and sent it out for a complete rebuild.  I'm going to paint it tonight and mount it tomorrow.  The reason is that although my original water pump did not leak, squeak or make any noises, please look at the angle of the pulley.  It appears that the pulley (or the shaft inside) is not plumb.  There is no wobble at all,  it's just at an angle.  Look at these photos.  When I studied the fan belt I removed from the car, it was severely worn on one side only.  

 

 

DSC_0220.thumb.jpg.21ddf86accd94229ecac8d87f0a82d82.jpg

Look at the angle the pulley sits.  The gap from the water pump housing to the top of the pulley is much, much wider than the lower gap.

 

 

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Yeah, that just looks wrong -- like the casting was machined off-kilter.

 

I don't know if it's "correct" to have silver freeze plugs, but they look pretty sharp against the green of the engine.

 

 

Edited by KongaMan (see edit history)
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Gary,

Looks like if you reverse the bottom bracket or move the gen to the other side (behind),  and move the generator BEHIND the adjusting bracket, the belt will line up.

The adjusting bracket bolt is in backwards.

You know that you cannot move the H2O pump.

Does the pump and the crank line up on the other side ?

If so, that would leave only the generator that is out of whack.

 

Also, for a good and low cost rebuild and improvement of your water pump, I would recommend "the Flying Dutchman"

No kidding, he is for real.................

 

Mike in Colorado

Edited by FLYER15015 (see edit history)
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Tuesday September 12, 2017:    Paint progress,   New water pump

 

I have my posse all lined up for Sunday morning to pick up the body and bring it home!  "T minus 5-days"  So I'm working on a lot of final details and studying my photos to formulate a plan for the build.  I purchased a water pump from Dave Tachney and sent it out for a complete rebuild, so I'll install that tonight.  I'm done with all the brown parts and working on some do-dads.  Here are a few photos from today:

 

 

 

Paint shop update:

 

 

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The entire roof is wet sanded now, and the machine compounding has begun.

 

 

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Squeeze it out, smear it around...

 

 

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Buff it up!

 

 

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As the edges get polished out, the result is fantastic.  The roof is a big job.  It'll go faster once Bob can work without a ladder.

 

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Showing the technique of getting into the window reveals.

 

 

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I used jeweler's rouge to polish out the chrome trim on the "Buick 8" Radiator badge.  Soft cotton wheel on slow speed.

 

 

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Most of the dark, cruddy stuff polished out smooth.

 

 

 

Water Pump / Generator mounting:

 

 

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On my '37, the generator can only go in one position.  The fore and aft location is set by the boss on the engine and the mount on the side.  The arm up top is only  a tensioner.

The generator does line up with the crankshaft pulley.

 

 

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Here's my old water pump.  I had it resting on the bolt heads only so I could take a comparison photograph.  Notice the angle of the hub to the body.

 

 

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Same mounting, notice how level the hub is on the newly rebuilt unit.

 

 

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This shows that maybe the bearing was pressed in at an angle??  I really don't know.

 

 

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The new pump is fairly parallel to the body casting.

 

 

Have a great night!

Gary

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Gary W said:

 

 

 

 

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Here's my old water pump.  I had it resting on the bolt heads only so I could take a comparison photograph.  Notice the angle of the hub to the body.

 

 

If the shaft is that cockeyed, you'd think that the impeller must be off kilter as well.  Did you take this apart to see what it looks like inside?  I can't see how the vanes on the impeller wouldn't be grinding against the case unless the bore and the inside of the body were all machined crooked.  Does this pump have inner and outer bearings?  If it does, it's kinda hard to see how the shaft would even go in unless both bores were tilted.

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That they do.  From analyzing the pictures, though, the distance from the bolt to the end of the shaft seems to be a nominal 4.5" on each. 

 

I'd be curious to know how this pump was constructed (inner and outer bearings?) and what it looks like inside.  It might be that someone made the belt way too tight and it just pulled the end of the shaft down.   You'd think there might be some wobble in the shaft if that happened -- or would it tilt the whole bearing rather than wear it?

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Are the bearings in your original water pump ball bearings or roller bearings?

 

Roller bearings would be able to withstand an axial load better than ball bearings. I remember a water pump that was replaced on our family Buick when I was a kid, and right before we went on summer vacation. The dealer installed the wrong pump on the engine, one that had roller bearings which was meant for a car without air conditioning, that could not withstand the additional axial load force from the air conditioner compressor. On the return trip home it started leaking and squealing loudly. Every time the engine got hot or close to overheating we had to stop to add more water and let the engine cool. We had to limp home that way for many miles. My dad was spitting bullets angry that the dealer made that mistake.

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Don't forget to seal several of the mounting bolts that go into the water jacket. Mine had copper crush gaskets on them.

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Gary: I found this photo of when I re-cored my radiator. The generator mount matches . I thought that maybe the generator pulley hub/fan may be different depth from the face of the unit.. I will check the size.

 Larry

 

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Wednesday September 13, 2017:  Update at the paint shop

 

Post One of Three today.  I have a LOT going on with all the final details!!

 

 

Paint Progress:

 

 

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The roof is completely wet sanded and machine compounded now.  The hand rub and the final glaze still coming.

 

 

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Coming along beautifully.

 

 

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Right Rear pillar, Bob showing the finish of the window reveals.  He takes a lot of Pride in his work.

 

 

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Using a damp towel rolled up to fit in the rain gutter, he gets out some of the compound buried in there.

 

 

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Today is the front cowl and the firewall.  Here you see the result of wet sanding with the 1200 grit paper.

 

 

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Wet sanding continues down the drivers side cowl

 

 

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Using the spurs to clean the wheel.

 

 

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With a slow and steady technique the shine begins to come up.

 

 

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Making the corner and working the buffer into all the details.

 

 

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You can see the lustre of the paint coming out.  "...And this is under the hood!"  

I truly appreciate Bob allowing me to photograph the entire paint process and the techniques he uses.  A real gentleman.

 

 

Thanks for following along, next one coming soon!

 

 

Gary

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Wednesday September 13, 2017:  Rebuilt Water Pump installed.

 

Quick update on the water pump.  I installed the rebuilt unit tonight.  It looks so much better.

 

 

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My son Kyle gave me a hand tonight to install the pump.  I use Ultra Black on the gasket and the hoses to ensure a water tight fit.

 

 

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I let him finish up

 

 

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Lining up the pulley

 

 

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Here we are all buttoned up.  Look how much better the fan belt sits.

 

 

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The old pump is still very useful though!

I painted the emergency brake spring to match the brown.  The pump kept the spring open just enough so the paint would dry without sticking!

 

 

 

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It works for me!

 

 

Gary

 

 


 

 

Edited by Gary W (see edit history)
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Gary,

Generator position looks great !

Keep in mind that the tension on the belt does not have to be real tight.

It will lessen the load on the H2O pump's bearings, and the Generator's too.

 

OOppss,

I did not realize that the lower front bolt went thru the front cover sheet metal.

So no rearward adjustment IS possible.

My '40 has a "U" shaped bracket bolted to the block, and the Generator pivots on that.

 

This may have been covered, but does your "bypass valve" below the thermostat housing have the cast in restricting hole or did you put a frost plug in it with a 1/4" drilled hole ?

Mine had the brass "doohickey" and most of it was missing, causing overheating. I put a frost plug in with the recommended 1/4" hole in the center, and it solved the problem.

 

Also, are you restoring to absolute stock, or would you consider adding a bypass oil filter like the later years had ?

They should be readily available from the Buick guys following your thread, or off the "net" for a reasonable cost, and plumbing it is a snap.

Did you get rid of the little cone screen that is in the head, where the oil line runs up to the rocker shaft.

I've heard that lots  of us have pitched these due to chronic plugging, and aside from pulling the line every time you go for a spin, there is no way to monitor the oil flow to the rocker shaft.

 

 

 

Mike in Colorado

Edited by FLYER15015 (see edit history)
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I'm trying for stock as much as I can.  My bypass valve has a brass freeze plug installed, but no hole drilled into it.  So the car runs as if the bypass valve is closed.  (the engine warmed up, thermostat open, water being directed through the radiator). It's how I got the car and being it didn't overheat with two cracked oil rings, a block completely filled with crud and a radiator needing a recore.......  I'm going to leave it as I got it.  I power washed my block clean, had my radiator re-cored and now a new water pump.... I'll see how she runs.

 

I am not considering an oil filter either.  But then again, I am rather nutty about oil changes.

 

Yes, the cone screen is gone.

 

Mike, thanks for following along!  Appreciate the support!

 

Gary

 

 

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May be out of step here. If the bypass on the '37 does the same as on the '50,  How does heated water from the block get to the thermostat to tell it to open if the bypass is blocked off?  Looks like only what ever the thermostat let squeeze by?

 

 Gary, the new one does look better. I am betting the other on is from a different year, after the engine was tilted to the back.

 

  I am envious of the way you are able to keep things so clean. 

 

  Ben

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With the frost plug installed in place of the spring loaded valve, the water heats up the thermostat.  Once opened, the water circulates through the radiator.

So, I left the frost plug intact and drilled a small hole in the thermostat flange.  

I think this would allow water to circulate slowly until the thermostat fully opened and the full flow passed though the radiator.

 

 

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So my car runs like the "normal circulation" all the time.

 

 

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Gary,

 

I have always followed the conventional wisdom that it is best to replicate Buick's later improvement by replacing the bypass valve with a freeze plug with a small opening. This allows a small amount of coolant to bypass the radiator while the thermostat is closed and allows a little slower warm up and perhaps protects the engine from an abrupt thermal shock when the thermostat opens and the coolant starts abruptly circulating through the radiator. Having a freeze plug without the hole would allow faster warm up, since no water is flowing to the block until the thermostat opens. This is basically how every other car cooling system now operates. I suspect it will work as good or perhaps a little bit better than a freeze plug with a small hole, since when warm, there is no chance of any of the coolant bypassing the radiator when you want maximum cooling. Since you have drilled a small hole in the thermostat flange, it would seem that you have perhaps achieved the best of both worlds.

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Wednesday Evening, September 13, 2017:  "Buick Master" Heater Restoration

 

 

I wanted to keep this one separate because I worked so hard restoring the heater unit, and I think you'll like the end result.

 

 

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The first few photos are the entire heater assembly as removed from the car.

 

 

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The defroster motor was shorted out.

 

 

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All the wires were brittle, bare and cracked at the slightest bend.

 

 

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I disassembled the entire unit, even the blower motor and the defroster motor down to their armatures so I could clean the carbon, oil the bearings and re-wire.

 

 

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And of course........   MORE MOUSE DROPPINGS!

Once it was completely disassembled, each part was restored.

 

 

 

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I took my trusty wire wheel to all the sheet metal parts.  Here is the result after the wire wheel.

 

 

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Using my Dremel with a cotton wheel and jeweler's rouge.....

 

 

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I polished the brass name plates.

 

 

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Here you can kind of see the brass beginning to shine up.

 

 

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After the brass was polished, I scrubbed all the metal in acetone in preparation for paint.

Then carefully mask out all the areas where you do not want the brown paint to seep into.

 

 

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Here we are, ready to head over to John's house for paint.

 

 

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First the primer is applied to all the parts.

 

 

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Then the color.  I chose Savoy Brown, mixed as a non-metallic .  Used it on the steering column as well.

 

 

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Painted up, now allow to set for a few days to cure.

 

 

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Here are all the heater parts setting on John's bench drying.

 

 

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Now home, it's time to get rebuilding!

 

 

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Carefully begin to peel the tape off.  I had to use a sharp blade edge in some spots to free the tape and clean up some edges.

 

 

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All the tape removed, time to start the details.

 

 

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I found this old bottle of Testors Dark Red under my train board.  Grabbed an artists brush and started the old "wipe" technique.

 

 

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I loaded it into the grooves pretty generously.

 

 

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I did one half at a time.  Once I was satisfied the valleys were filled in...

 

 

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I wiped it off.  You can see a red tint being left behind on the raised part.

 It did come easily with a very, very damp paper towel with a little thinner on it.

 

 

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OK...  The easy part is done.  Now for the "Buick" lettering.

 

 

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So, I tried the brush technique again, but the letters are not deep enough for it to work.  It just smeared everything into a big mess.  

So I carefully cleaned off all the paint and went a different way:

 

 

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I used a red sharpie marker with a very fine point.  The point literally follows the grooves all around and lays down a decent amount to cover.

 

 

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Filling in the "Buick" side

 

 

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And starting the "Master" side.  It's an easy technique.

 

 

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The depth of the color isn't as bold, but the fine point makes the job go pretty nice.

 

 

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Heres the front finished.

 

 

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Maybe a better shot of the front done.  The brass is polished, the knobs cleaned with a very fine pumice.

 

 

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So, tonight, the electric motors are completely restored.  New main wire soldered in.  

(You have to completely dismantle these all the way down to the armatures to get to that field wire)

 

 

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Begin the re-assembly.  Setting the main blower motor in the frame.

 

 

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Attaching the defroster motor to the hood vent.  You can see those small nuts inside.  I used a hemostat to get those suckers out!

 

 

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Attaching the defroster motor to the main shroud.

 

 

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The finished product.  I hooked the motors up to a spare 6V battery and they hum along!

I simply cleaned the original hoses so I can re-use them

The core inside was tested for leaks under pressure and it passed, so it just got a good cleaning and a light coat of SEM "Trim Black"

All the original fasteners were wire wheeled, primed and painted Savoy Brown.

 

 

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Another view.

 

 

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Here's the back with the new wires and the cleaned up hoses.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

B E F O R E        A N D         A F T E R :

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Have a great night!

 

 

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thursday Morning,  September 14, 2017:  Update at the Paint Shop

 

 

Stopped by the paint shop on my way into the office this morning.  The Cowl section and firewall are machine compounded and Bob was finishing up the hand compounding.

The paint is really coming out nice, and we are still on track for this Sunday to pick up the body and bring it home.  Here are just a few photos of the front cowl area:

 

 

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Bob opens up the shop at 6:00 am and was well underway at 7:30 when I stopped by.

 

 

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Hand compounding the firewall after using the machine.

 

 

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The clarity of the cowl is really amazing

 

 

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Coming along very nice.  

Only have the rear quarters and around the trunk left to compound.

Then the inside gets sprayed with the rubberized undercoat

And then the job is finished by applying the final glaze.

 

 

Have a great day out there!

Gary

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Where are the rest of the body parts, or is Bob going to do those after the main body section is complete?

 

Not to get too far ahead in your project, but what are your plans concerning the worn and mice-infested seats that came with the car? If the seat springs are rusty and close to failure where will you get replacement(s)?

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