1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)

[kgreen]

Thanks Gary, that's great background.  You're terrific!

[Gary W]

Monday August 28, 2017:  Update on the Body / Paint and some Powder Coated Parts:

 

I made a few stops the last couple of days to pick up the remaining sandblasted parts, my powder coated parts and to check on the body progress.

 

 

 

 

Flashback to January:  Running Board bottom.  Focus on the bracket there.

 

 

 

Another view of the running board bracket when removed from the car in January.

 

That same bracket today.  Powder Coated "Mirror Black"

 

 

 

 Here you see the condition of the mud shield under the rear fender as removed from the car.

 

 

 

 

 

Here are the powder coated parts.  Mostly chassis items that I thought would hold up better from road debris.

 

 

 

 

Update at the paint shop:

 

Bob uses a 320 grit sandpaper over the "build-up" primer in combination with this flexible "scotch brite" pad that gets into all the firewall details.

 

 

 

 

You can see the difference between the "sanded" and "not-sanded" by noticing where the "guide coat" is sanded off.

 

 

 

 

In this shot you can see the cowl section in progress.

 The Passenger's side is done, the Driver's side still has the "guide coat" (looks darker).

 

 

 

 

The body will be completely sanded out today.  

Just the small sections under the rear window, under the center of the trunk and the roof need to be done.

It really is amazing how smooth the body feels after being sanded out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[kgreen]

Excellent progress, great work!  Thanks for sharing.

[Gary W]

Wednesday August 30, 2017:  Running Board Restoration:

 

In tonight's post, I would like to document the restoration of the running boards.  I looked at it as four separate areas:

1.  The Running Board Stainless Steel trim strip that runs alongside the outer surface.

2.  The angled iron support irons that bolt directly to the underside of the running board

3.  The heavy support irons that actually bolt to those angled iron supports  AND  bolt directly to the frame and are the support for the running boards.

4.  The mud shield that attaches to the underside of the running board at the rear.

 

Enjoy!

 

 

 

 

The condition of the running board undersides as removed from the car in January:

 

 

Everything under there was rusted.

 

 

Pretty much every nut, bolt and washer had to be replaced as most of them sheared off upon removal.

 

 

Tons of PB Blaster hardly helped.

 

 

Here's the mess of rusty nuts and bolts that came out.

 

 

And of course the rubber was completely dry-rotted.

 

I had the underside of the running boards blasted clean.  Then I shipped them out to be re-vulcanized and powder coated "mirror-black" on the underside.

I then had the support brackets and the mounting brackets powder coated, and I ordered all new stainless steel fasteners for the assembly.

Here we go:

 

 

1.  Stainless Steel Trim Molding:

The Stainless trim moldings.  The rust inside was quite extensive.

 

 

I first used a wire wheel on my electric drill to remove mostly all the rusty metal and clean the rusty surfaces.

 

 

You can start to see the difference after treating with the wire wheel.

 

 

Next I used acetone to clean the inner surfaces.  Then I sprayed this Rust-Oleum product to be sure I got in and around all the surfaces in there.

Once this dried,  a light coat of SEM "Trim Black" to the underside to give it that final protective coat.

 

 

To deal with the rust blossoms beginning to show through the outer surface, I swapped out my wire wheel for a cotton buffing wheel.

I used jeweler's rouge to coat the cotton buffing wheel.

 

 

Very carefully, and with a steady hand, I began to polish off the rust and blemishes.  The trim does have some small dents and such, but they are 80 years old.

 

 

Here you can see the change from the original on top to the buffed trim on bottom.

 

 

Then a good hand polishing to remove any residual buffing residue and the trim looks pretty good.  Not perfect, but not bad.

 

 

 

I replaced 10 trim mounting clips.  They are all #10 - 24 screw thread.  I got all these stainless fasteners at Home Depot.

 

 

 

After carefully lining up the holes, snap in the new mounting clips.

Turn the molding up and push all the mounting clip studs through the holes in the running board, flip the board over and....

 

 

Tighten up all the stainless steel nuts, lock washers and flat washers using a 3/8" wrench.

 

 

 

2.  Running Board Support Brackets:

Next step is to mount the support brackets to the underside of the running boards.  I had all these powder coated "mirror - black"

Here is the list of materials I used, ordering them from McMaster Carr.  

Notice, I used "Elevator Bolts" for the supports.  Worked out fantastic!

Every replacement is stainless steel.

 

 

First I ran a die over all the support irons threads because the powder got in there. Use a   5/16 - 18  coarse thread die.

 

 

Begin sliding in your carriage bolts, or in my case, the "elevator bolts".

 

 

Once you slide the bolts into the groove, place the running board support bracket into position and using the fasteners outlined above...

 

 

Install everything.  I did not over tighten anything yet because I'll need the looseness later on to line up the running board once installed on the car.

 

 

 

 

3. Running Board to Frame Support Irons:

The next step is to attach the heavy running board support irons to these brackets.  Again, this is the list of materials I used to do this.

 

 

 

Install your 5/16" flat washer, lock washer and the stainless  5/16-18 nut.  Again, not overly tight at this point until settled on the car.

 

 

 

Then, install the mud shield at the rear of the running boards to complete the restoration of the underside!

 

 

4.  Materials used to mount the running board to the frame:

When it comes time to mount the running boards to the frame, this is the list of materials that I am using.

Again, everything is stainless steel.

 

 

 

 

Here is the finished restoration of the underside of the running boards.

 

 

Here's the up side.

 

 

Another close-up of the up side.  I am so happy with the results!

 

 

BEFORE AND AFTER:  Ready for installation!!

 

 

 

Have a great night out there!

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 3, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history)

[Taylormade]

Very nice.  You are very lucky to be able to use the original running boards.  My 32 Dodge Brothers boards were totally rusted out.

[smithbrother]

Is this you?.  NEVER BOAST, RARELY REST. 

 

Looking SO GOOD!

 

Dale in Indy

[Spinneyhill]

Very nice work.

 

But be careful with Stainless Steel fixings. Where you ran the tap through the threads, the paint might have finished with tiny chips at the surfaces. When you put the bolt in, there are likely to be tiny spots of steel unprotected on each side of what the stainless is screwed into. SS is below steel in the galvanic series so the steel will rust first, accelerated a bit by the stainless, i.e. the steel will passivate the stainless.

 

Yes, I know, the stainless fixings are beautiful. I am sorely tempted myself. But the corrosion protection on what it screws into needs to be up to snuff if it is to last.

 

I am interested to hear you and your readers' experiences in this regard. Maybe I am being too conservative?

Edited August 31, 2017 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[kgreen]

30 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

 SS is below steel in the galvanic series so the steel will rust first, accelerated a bit by the stainless, i.e. the steel will passivate the stainless.

 

I am interested to hear you and your readers' experiences in this regard. Maybe I am being too conservative?

There are various grades of SS based on the alloys, nickel being an important variable.  Some stainless will rust, although slower than plain carbon steel.  Gary's use of stainless on his car looks really great.  The hot rodders will file and polish the bolt heads and make everything look clean and shiney.  I'm not familiar from experience to know if running board fasteners are prone to road debris damage (impact) which would make painting them almost fruitless.

 

As for using stainless or other long term corrosion tricks on a vintage car restoration, I'm always trying to remind myself that I am not preparing a daily driver that will be exposed to routine rain, salt and slush.  I am not likely to see the deterioration on my cars from the use I will put them through compared to the initial buyer of that same car.  When complete, I expect to be driving my car so some road rash, dirt and minor surface rust on unprotected steel is inevitable.

 

Gary, what are your plans for this beautiful car?  Driving it?

[27donb]

1 hour ago, kgreen said:

I'm always trying to remind myself that I am not preparing a daily driver that will be exposed to routine rain, salt and slush.  I am not likely to see the deterioration on my cars from the use I will put them through compared to the initial buyer of that same car.  When complete, I expect to be driving my car so some road rash, dirt and minor surface rust on unprotected steel is inevitable.

 

My thoughts exactly! 

 

Thoughts and concerns of slight future rust around the edges of stainless steel hardware can be left to those restoring a car to always win 1st place, whose cars are transported to and from events in an enclosed trailer. 

 

But if the concern still is a bother, who among us hasn't spent the better part of a day off on our backs with a drop light, a touch up paint brush and a can of touch up paint? 

 

And by the way, I could see this '37 taking 1st place even with a little rust stain on that running board hardware (in the future).

[DonMicheletti]

If you go with a running board radio antenna, you will have to replace the running board to frame bracket mounts with the insulated ones. Bobs has them

[Gary W]

August 30, 2017:  Update on the body progress:

 

The "build-up" prime coat is now completely sanded smooth.  A 320 grit paper followed by the pad gives the metal an unbelievable finish.  Going forward, the plan is to raise the body off the wooden dolly so the underside can be primed with the "self-etching" primer, and then finished with a rubberized undercoat.  Then back down onto the wood frame to spray the interior with the rubberized undercoat before the final wet sand and color application.  Anyway, I think I have the order of operations correct. 

 

All sanded out and ready to work on the underside.

 

This is what the rubberized undercoat looks like applied to the inside of the firewall.

 

 

Here you can see the undercoat applied to the sheet metal under the pedals..

 

 

I tried to get the light on the wall to highlight the smoothness of the sanded primer.  It actually looks glossy when it's sanded out so smooth.

 

 

Thanks so much for following along!  To answer a couple of your questions:

 

Spinneyhill:  I ordered all 18-8 Stainless from McMaster Carr.  Their description says "excellent chemical resistance" and some of the fasteners say "can be used in salt water environments" so I hope they stay nice.  (Truth in advertising?)   I chose stainless for longevity (hopefully), not so much for the aesthetics.  Maybe in 30 years if my son needs to work on the car, the parts will come off easier for him!  I also use a product called "Copper-Eze" over the studs which I hope will create a barrier to rust........  We'll See!

 

KGreen:  I do drive my cars weekly, usually on Sunday mornings, little 15-20 mile jaunts.  We have some great roads around here still posted at 25, 35 mph so it's comfortable.  I usually put about 250 - 400 miles a year on my Model "A"'s. Not a lot, but keeps them "exercised".   I think I'll be driving the Buick a lot more, as she seems so much more road worthy.  I have never done one of those multi-day tours, but maybe some day....

 

27donb:  I love attending the car shows, but rarely, if ever, enter my cars for judging.  Sometimes the judging is so subjective that I can't figure out how the end results are tallied.  And I feel your pain spending hours on my back with the touch up kit!  

 

Don:  I'm thinking that I'll use the bluetooth feature of the restored radio 99.99% of the time so I'm not going to run antenna wires.  But thanks for the "heads-up"!

 

 

Again...THANKS for the comments,  for the constant support and thanks for following along!

 

Have a great day!

Gary
 

[Spinneyhill]

Copper-Eze: very good idea! The oiliness will prevent the surrounding steel rusting for a while until it dries out. I am going to try a lanolin grease product produced locally.

[LAS VEGAS DAVE]

I took my original 1938 running boards off to add new insulators when I installed the new antenna loom. They were never off before. Nothing but very light surface rust under this car or better description would be rust colored. This car came originally from Michigan and had about 16000 Michigan miles on it but the original owner had a wood two car garage it was kept in. He worked for Buick and he mostly drove his wife 37 Buick.  It then spent the rest of its life in a heated building with other collectable cars. I got it and it is inside a garage in Las Vegas now. My point is Garys car will probably never sit outside again in its life so rust will never be an issue. I have driven our car over 3000 miles and it still has no rust and most likely never will. They don't rust easily if they live inside.

 

Edited August 31, 2017 by LAS VEGAS DAVE (see edit history)

[Gary W]

Friday September 1, 2017:  Update at the paint shop

 

 

I stopped by the paint shop after work today.  My wood carriage has now been replaced by four heavy jack stands which hold the body high enough for Bob to get under and work on the underside of the floor.  First, he fiberglassed two small holes. They were located under the rear seat where all those mice made their home.  Then he sanded out the fiberglass and gave the underside a light sanding to smooth out the roughness left by the sand blaster.  A coat of yellow "self-etching" primer was then applied, followed by a coat of rubberized undercoat material.  He's out of the shop now until Tuesday when the wet sanding of the body will begin.  By this time next week the first coat of color should be applied!

 

 

The body is supported on all four corners by these heavy stands.  You can see my wood carriage leaning against the wall over there.

 

 

The inside is still in self-etching primer.  You can see all the creeper marks in the dust on the floor.

 

 

This height and being nice and open allows him to scoot around and work.

 

 

This is the product that he used to spray the underside (and the inside)

 

 

View from the front.  The finish is really nice and it's an economical alternative to traditional paint.

Plus, it's easy to touch up in the future!

 

Under the trunk and the and view from the rear.

 

 

Passenger's side door sill and floor pans.

 

 

 

Have a great day!

Gary

 

 

 

[LAS VEGAS DAVE]

It looks better than new.

 

[DonMicheletti]

It IS better than new

[Buicknutty]

 That is such great looking work!

Keith

[dibarlaw]

Gary:

 Great documentation of these procedures that you have provided. I just received my September Torque Tube and the first instalment of your story looks great.

Larry

Edited September 2, 2017 by dibarlaw
Added content (see edit history)

[Gary W]

Sunday September 3, 2017:  Accelerator Pedal

 

It appears the paint is on schedule and hopefully I'll get the body back in my garage in 10 days.  As I'm going through bags of labeled and tagged parts, I found an important one:  The accelerator pedal.  So here is how I restored it today:

 

January 2017:  This is the condition of the drivers controls.  

 

 

The accelerator pedal removed.  All the rubber is dry and hard as a rock.

 

 

The underside is rusty and the dry, cracked and brittle rubber is completely worn.

 

 

The mounting hinge.

 

 

I secured the pedal in the vice and began with a wood chisel in the deep cracks.  I figured better to start at a weak spot!

 

 

Once the blade bit, the material began to let go.

 

 

About halfway done, and about 25 minutes of work already!

 

 

I turned it and began to remove the other side in the same fashion.

 

 

The underside had its own challenges, getting into the grooves and cleaning out the throttle linkage.

 

 

Then I punched out the holes that the original rubber was vulcanized through.  I guess it gives some sort of mechanical retention.

 

 

And finally, scraped out the grooves.  All in, about 45 minutes to get all that rubber off.  Most came out in large, hard chunks.

 

 

So heres the underside, all the rubber removed.

 

 

Next I gave both sides and the edges the wire wheel treatment.  This removed all residual rust and paint and any pieces of rubber left behind.

 

 

OK....Now we're getting there!  Looks so much better just getting cleaned up!

 

 

After an acetone bath and scrub, I dried it with compressed air and painted it gloss black.  I allowed it over seven hours to dry.

 

 

I purchased the accelerator pad from Steele.  There is a notch in the rubber that fits nicely over the hinge.

The pad was a nice, tight fit all around.  I did not use any epoxy because the fit is so tight, but I may glue it down before I install it in the car.

I wanted to test the fit first, and it is a perfect fit.

 

 

Next I addressed the throttle linkage with a small neoprene hose.

 

 

I cut it to the same length as the throttle linkage hole in the bottom of the pedal.

 

 

Then simply pushed the hose into the hole, and inserted the throttle linkage.

Just needs a cotter pin to finish the job.

I was thinking I could simply pump a little epoxy through those holes if I thought the pad needs it.

 

 

The underside finished.

 

 

The top side finished.

 

 

SOME BEFORE AND AFTER PHOTOS:

 

 

Top side.  The Steele pad has the correct number of ribs and valleys.

 

 

The hinge area.

 

 

The throttle linkage and the metal stop.  

(By the way....does a rubber bumper go in that metal to stop the pedal?)

 

 

 

Have a nice Labor Day!

Gary

 

 

 

[Taylormade]

Very nice.  Lucky Steele had the correct rubber.

[DonMicheletti]

I have the same rubber part on the pedal of my '38 Special. I have had problems with it coming off.

 

I'm going to try to glue it next time. I wonder if weatherstrip cememt will work OK.

Strangly, I havnt had problems with the Roadmaster and it has been in place for many years.

 

I think the rubber floormat may be contributing to the problem. The Roadmaster has carpet that  is less rigid.

[Gary W]

Wednesday September 6, 2017:  Update at the paint shop!

 

 

I stopped by the paint shop to check on the progress.     We are good to go for paint tomorrow morning!     

Bob spent all day yesterday (Tuesday) cleaning the blades of the exhaust fan, wiping down the walls, wetting down the floor and blowing out all the residual dust from sanding the primer.

Today is all about final body preparation.  Using lint-free cloths, he uses a product called "First Klean" to remove any residual primer dust from the car's surface, followed by another lint-free cloth to dry it.

He takes his time with this step, being very careful not to miss any areas.  Worked his way down from the roof all the way under the sills and trunk.....  

 

 

Here is the dispenser full of the "lint-free" cleaning towels for the wipe down of the body before paint.

 

 

The rag is dampened with this "First Klean" product and the body surface is wiped.

It is then followed by a clean lint-free towel to dry this product so it doesn't dry with any residual goobers.

 

 

The surface is so nice and smooth!

 

 

He took his time to be sure to get every detail of the body nice and clean.

 

 

Some parts are being painted separately.  The cowl vent, windshield separator, horns, firewall grommet holder.......

 

 

While I was there the paint was delivered!  Super Jet Black and I think the product next to the paint is the thinner? (reducer?)

 

 

Here is the clear that will be sprayed over the color coats.    Again, I believe these two go together.

 

 

Tomorrow morning the body will get one more going over with a tack cloth and by 10:00 Bob will be spraying.

I will stop by after work tomorrow to update photos.  

 

 

Last time it'll look like this.  Within 24 hours she'll be wearing a new coat!!!  

I can't wait!

 

 

Have a great day!

Gary

 

 

 

[GARY F]

Can't wait to see that black.

[dibarlaw]

Booo.... Black......

[Gary W]

Wednesday night, September 6, 2017:  Drag Link ( Steering Connecting Rod ) attachment to the center steering ball

 

 

Being the body will be dropped on the chassis in about 10 days, I am starting to take inventory of what the next steps are.  So I recently restored the accelerator pedal, and I am feverishly cleaning nuts, bolts and any related hardware for the build.  

Tonight I attached the drag link ( what the Buick Manual calls the "Steering Connecting Rod" )  to the center steering ball.  I figured let me do as much stuff like this while it's easier to get in and around with the body off.

 

 

 

FLASHBACK: The condition of the center ball link connection in February.

 

 

And the guts that came out of that end of the drag link.  

 

 

I used my notes to help get the parts assorted.  The smaller spring and the shorter "spring stop" go to the center.

Notice there is only ONE spring stop and ONE spring to the center link as opposed to the double that goes to the pitman arm (steering box) side.

 

 

 

 

First I cleaned everything up and painted what I needed to.  I used an 800 grit automotive sand paper on both the pitman arm ball and the center ball to clean and polish it.

Here are all the parts cleaned and sorted to where they belong.

Tonight I'm only focusing on the right side of the above photo.  Just the center ball connection.

 

 

First I pumped grease through the grease fittings to be sure they were both clear and free of old, hardened grease.

 

 

Next, install the grease fittings.  I did both ends as it's so much easier on the bench.

 

 

I again pumped grease through the installed grease fitting to be sure the reservoir was free and clear.

 

 

Drop in the spring stopper

 

 

Followed by the spring.  I did coat the spring with grease, but kept it clean for the photo.

 

 

Next, install the ball seat, being sure the open neck remains facing up.  The grease will keep it from rotation on assembly.

 

 

Install the spring and the dust cap over the center ball.  Sorry for the dark photo!

 

 

Push the drag link over the center ball and pull it toward you a bit.  You'll feel it kinda "lock" into position.

 

 

Grease up the other ball seat and place it into position.  I then smeared a little grease on the outer side so the plug can easily turn without upsetting the neck.

 

 

Begin inserting the plug into the end.  I followed the Buick Service Manual here to obtain the proper adjustment:

 

 

 

 

Page 164:  "Tighten the plug up solid, then back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn.  

I backed it off 1/2 turn, as i felt it was a little too snug at 1/4.  Plus it was easier to line up the cotter pin.

 

 

Once satisfied with the adjustment, cotter it and call it a night!

 

 

 

 

BEFORE AND AFTER:

 

Have a nice evening, and I am very excited about the paint progress tomorrow!!

 

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

 

[39BuickEight]

That was certainly the messiest job I encountered on my car.  Very nice work! 

[kgreen]

Just started this same project myself.  Cleaning the inside of the drag link was a mess as that grease had hardened long ago.  Nice work, thanks for the inspiration.

[avgwarhawk]

That good old goo helps from parts from rusting! 

[Gary W]

Thursday September 7, 2017:      P A I N T ! ! ! ! !

 

Today I made two visits to the paint shop.  7:30 this morning on my way into work to say hi and watch whatever I could in the short 15-minute visit.  Then after work on my way home about 3:15.

 

 

7:45 AM

 

 

Bob was at his bench, mixing up the paint and the thinner.

 

 

1:1 proportions.    2 quarts of paint = 1 gallon when thinned and sprayed.

 

 

The sprayer is all cleaned out and here you see the nozzle getting the final flush.

 

 

OK.  On my way to work now.    ............

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3:45 PM

 

( Larry ......  Don't Look any further! )

 

 

 

Base coats and clear coats applied!

 

 

Please allow me to do a quick "walk around"

 

 

Left rear quarter

 

 

Roof

 

 

Right rear quarter

 

 

Firewall

 

 

Rear trunk deck

 

 

Front cowl section

 

 

Going forward:

The car will sit and cure until Monday (3-days cure time)

Wet sand the clear. ( This makes a "milky-ish" runoff ).

Finish the rubberized undercoat of the interior and trunk.

(The reason this wasn't done yet it that the runoff will get into the material and never come out)

Once the interior and trunk are done, the body is buffed and polished.

 

 

 

BEFORE  AND  AFTERS:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Have a GREAT DAY out there!

 

Gary
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[GARY F]

Just beautiful Gary. Can't beat black on the old cars.

[Spinneyhill]

Very good progress.

 

On the drag link, just make sure you can't pull the ball out of the end. The slot looks quite worn... not sure though. I went through this last year and had to rebuild the end to keep the ball in.

 

It is interesting you have two springs and one spring in the ends. Chev had one in each. Dodge Brothers 1930 had two and two. Dodge 1932 had one and one. The design thinking was not clear cut or universally accepted!

[pont35cpe]

Gary, you`ve just blew by me and my `36 Buick coupe. Just how much color and top coat did it take to do the body?  I like it!!  Tom

[Daves1940Buick56S]

BEE_YOO_TEE_FULL!!!!!

 

Cheers, Dave

[dibarlaw]

I looked........I will cry in my beer.....

[LAS VEGAS DAVE]

Happy for you Gary, this was a big day and it looks beautiful

[SC38dls]

Gary I just found and went thru this entire amazing thread. You're doing a great job. 

Seeing the picture on page one of the young boy (your son Matthew) pulling the engine then of the older gentleman with the same engine I thought you were really taking your time on doing this build. LOL. 

Keep it up can't wait to see it painted and back on the road. 

[Gary W]

Friday September 8, 2017:  Window Run Channel and Vertical Division Channel  (Vent window separator)

 

 

I ordered new felt-lined channel inserts from Steele. I also got new stainless steel fasteners from McMaster-Carr to replace the original rivets that held the assembly together.  You have to remove these channels from the car prior to removing the window glass.  The Window Run Channel located in the door is removed with two screws.  The Vent Window Separator is removed by removing 4 machine screws,  2 up / 2 down.  Here's the sequence:

 

Window Run Channel:

 

 

 

Here you see the upper of the two screws you remove to remove the run channel.

 

Before I disassembled anything, I noted driver's side, passenger's side and the amount of overhang the felt channel extended beyond the steel channel.

The single hash mark notates drivers side.  Note the original rivets that held the felt lined channel to the steel frame.

 

 

I used my Dremel to grind the rivets down.

 

 

Then punch out the rivets.  The felt-lined channel will pop right out.

 

 

Utilizing a wood block, I sanded it out completely.  Then an acetone wash and sprayed gloss black.

 

 

Using the steel channel as a guide, mark all your holes, the end points and the overhang.  Mark top and bottom, mark drivers and passengers.

Measure twice before making any cuts!

 

 

I use a cut-off wheel to cut the felt-lined channel to length.  Don't use a "tin snip".  The tin snip will crush the rounded, chrome edge.

The cut off wheel makes a beautiful, clean cut and the rounded edges stay round.

 

 

 

Once cut to length, drill your holes and simply re-attach.  I used 18-8 Stainless Steel Philips Flat-Head "undercut" screws.  Size 6-32,  5/8" length.

Secured everything with stainless steel lock washers and  6 - 32 square nuts.  Then I ground the excess screw length to finish the installation.

 

 

 

Vertical Division Channel  (Vent window separator):

 

 

 

Removing the upper two screws.

 

 

On the bench as removed from the car.  Again, notice the "hash" marks that let me know drivers and passengers when reinstalled.

 

 

Disassembly started.  These vent separators are challenging in that they are five separate parts:

1. Rubber Gasket that seals the vent window - Ordered new part from Steele

2. A felt-lined window run channel - Again, new felts with the rolled chrome edge from Steele

3.  A chrome main support ( the division channel) - Sent to Paul's Chrome to be re-chromed

4.  Wood grained steel "sleeve" - Slide it off and sent to Bob Kennedy to be wood grained

5.  The metal angle brackets - Simply wire-wheeled, primed and painted for re-use.

 

 

My notes for the build of the entire vent window system.

Focusing on just the divider here.

(After doing it,  it's easier to switch step 5 and 6 above)

 

 

 

Here's the Vertical Division Channel build:

Like the window run channel,  grind off the rivets,  get everything restored, carefully measure the felt-lined channels for length and mounting holes

Again, use a cut-off wheel to proper length and drill the three mounting holes to accept a #6 screw.

Here are all the parts laid out for assembly.

 

 

First line up the rubber seal.  Try them both in all ways to determine the correct fit.  They do not require any trimming at all.

 

 

Seat the rubber seal in position, turn the assembly over and....

 

 

Bend the tabs into position to secure the rubber seal to the division post.

 

 

Run your screws through the felt first.  Then push the screws through the holes in the division channel.  

This photo demonstrates how the curved ends stayed rounded with the cut-off wheel instead of being pinched by tin snips.

Keep the screws LOOSE for now so you can...

 

 

Slide the wood grained metal piece down the length of the vent separator.  

 

 

 

It will seat fully to the bottom.

 

 

Now install the metal support bracket up top over the screws.

 

 

Secure with the square nuts.  

Couple of notes:  I don't think I'll use the lock washers on final assembly here.  The square nuts fit so perfectly that they won't come loose.

Also, I think I have to trim the chromed edge down about 3/4" when the upper window channel is installed and butts up against this assembly, so I'll leave it loose for now.

 

 

The finished lower section.

 

 

The finished upper section.

 

 

 

 

 

Have a great day!

Gary

 

 

 

PS:  If you came here from post # 1051,  February 11, 2018,  Page 43..  and you want to go back,  here's the link:

 

 

 

 

If not....  Carry On!

 

 

 

 

Edited February 12, 2018 by Gary W (see edit history)

[39BuickEight]

And you're an artist too Gary???  Fantastic as always!

[SC38dls]

I love the detail you put with all the pics. My 38 Studebaker needs all of the window channels redone and this detail will relate very well to the Studebaker. Thanks you do very good work 

Edited September 8, 2017 by SC38DLS (see edit history)

[DonMicheletti]

It you are worried about the screws coming loose, you can pein or center punch the threads at the nut where it is flush