Taylormade

Hard to say until you actually see it in person. I think the biggest problem is the difference in color and texture on various parts of the car. The doors and lower fenders look like they might even polish up a bit, but the crusty stuff on the hood is a problem. I guess you’ll have to decide what you can live with. She was just down the road from me in Illinois and I’m sorry to see her go, but I’m glad she found a new home. Enjoy!

Does anyone have a source for felt seals that can be bought individually? Looking for a seal that fits the driveshaft on a 32 Dodge Brothers DL. Everyone I can find on the net is either a manufacturer or a company in China. I found a few that are the wrong size, but the seller didn't seem to offer other choices. it seems they still make them, but I can't find where to buy them. Any help appreciated.

You’ll be fine. Chrysler products were famous for lots of headroom - corporate heads demanded that the driver had enough room to wear a hat while in the driver’s seat.

Don’t worry, the transmission still weeps a bit of oil and I’m just going to live with it. And thanks for your kind comments. I hope my trials and tribulations have helped you and others with their cars. Lord knows folks on this forum have helped me immensely.

Thanks! My 32 Dodge Brothers uses three cables with steel-wrapped cable housings for Throttle, Choke and Free Wheeling. This is just what I was looking for. And you didn’t write a novel, your explanation was clear and concise.

Where did you find the specialized paint for the cables? Is it MG exclusive or designed for general use?

I'm turning 74 in a few weeks. I feel your pain! I find I can get down okay, it's getting up that's the real difficulty. A knee replacement at the first of the year didn't help anything when it comes to this type of work.

And I’m sure you’re correct, I was ready to buy a can as soon as I saw your post. Why it’s four times as much here makes no sense. Thanks for the suggestion, though, I wasn’t brushing you off, I’m just too broke to try it! 😀

I liked the sound of the spray on Hylomar until I saw the price - sixty bucks for an aerosol can. I bought some Permatex Aviation Sealer for four bucks. The Hylomar overspray would have cost me that.

That was my thought, but if I have to take this u-joint off one more time I may run screaming down the street in frustration.

Taking a poll. I’m ready to put the gaskets on the u-joints and put the drivetrain together. The gaskets are 3/64 of an inch thick and rather soft and crushable. They are there to contain the grease in the u-joint, which is thick, but can weep fairly thin liquid if left standing for a period of time. Do I need to apply gasket cement to the gaskets, or do I just put them on dry? The cement always seems to make a total mess no matter how carefully I try to apply it, but safety is probably the best policy. What do you think?

Sometimes you get lucky, but what happened today was downright ridiculous. I went to the local parts store, where we are still welcome as long as we wear a mask, and bought some gasket material. I couldn't find anything that was quite as thin as I wanted, so I settled for something a little thicker - 3/64th of an inch. More about that later. Well, the sun was out and I've been inside for the last two weeks, so I decided to take a short ride out in the country and get some fresh air. We live in a tiny town in Central Illinois, so it takes about four minutes to get into the woods and cornfields. I took a narrow country road I'd never noticed before and was cruising along when I went over a rickety old bridge spanning a little creek. Out of the corner of my eye I spotted a rusty something or other buried in the creek bed. It appeared to be automotive. I pulled over and walked back to see what was up. Sure enough there was the battered cowl of an early thirties car down there. i started to go back and get my phone so I could take a picture of it and realized I'd left it at home. i wasn't happy about that, but I went back and half walked, half slide down the creek bank to the wreckage. It turned out to be what was left of a Chrysler, barely identifiable by the firewall tag. There wasn't much left, the bottom having been submerged for years and totally rusted away. Nothing was salvageable - or so I thought. Then I took a closer look at the firewall and noticed something familiar poking through from inside. It was the ends of the firewall clips I had been searching for - these things... I couldn't believe it! How they had survived all this time is beyond me. I got the cowl turned over and managed to get six of the little buggers out, more than I needed. I'm going to go back and get a picture of the cowl when I get a chance - it still bugs me that I forgot my phone. Here are the little beauties - lots of surface rust, but they are still solid and perfectly usable once I clean them up. On a more mundane note, I was curious to see if my C and C machine would cut clean gaskets from the thicker material I brought home. No problem.

I’m sure Bob’s stands by their work. I did the boiling water test when they first sent it back and it was dead on. Thanks, it’s a good tip and an easy way to test the gauge.

Another example of the gaskets I cut with the C and C machine. This one was for the speedometer. My Rube Goldberg coil holder turned out great. It fits in the clamp behind the dash where the original coil was located. I drilled a hole for the wires to the ignition switch and slotted the sides for the clamp to hold the coil in. All the dash wiring is ready to go. As soon as I get firewall pad I can install the instrument cluster, the choke, throttle and Free Wheeling cables, the coil and the ignition switch and I'll be ready to start Daphne the way she was meant to be started.

Finally got around to finishing up the instrument cluster. Bob's Speedometer rebuilt the water gauge, calibrated the fuel gauge and rebuilt the tank sending unit. Based on what was left of the old gaskets, I used my previously mentioned method to cut new ones. I can't stress how accurately these things are cut, especially the round holes for the screws/bolts. They fit like a glove (unless you're O.J. Simpson). Everything went together very easily and now it's ready to install in the dash. The new face on the water gauge is indistinguishable from the other originals. They are all the same shade, it just doesn't show in this photo for some reason.