Taylormade

Most silent film was shot at 18 frames per second. When sound came in, they upped it to 24 frames per second for better sound resolution. Transfers from film are usually made at 24 frames per second, which makes everything Keystone Kops frantic with everything moving at an exaggerated pace. New computer technology can now slow things down to actual speed and the results are stunning.

Thanks. I’ve been trying to figure out a solution for some time.

Did you make the firewall pad and board? Looking to do my 32 Dodge. I have the old board and pad, but they are soaked with mice urine.

I think the problem with this particular car is that there have been multiple posts, all of them similar, and folks on the forum get a bit tired of this showing up over and over again with the same claims as to price and value. You can only comment so many times and try to point out the car’s problems before total frustration sets in. The fact that no one has purchased the car and that generally people have remained slack-jawed at the condition and asking price should tell the seller he is off base and dreaming. Fifty grand buys a fantastic car - this isn’t one of them.

Then and Now did a great job on my 32 Dodge Brothers mounts. Fast service and reasonable prices. I just sent in the cores and got back what looked like NOS mounts. A must if you have Floating Power.

The illustrators had nothing to do with the guys that engineered the car. Their job was to make their illustrations long, low and built for speed. Advertising illustrations for my 32 Dodge Brothers show a car totally different from my sedan. Although my body has a chopped look already (many people have asked me if I chopped it and are surprised when I tell them it's stock) it's nowhere near as radical as in the drawings. As long as you have good clearance under the fenders - fronts especially - I don't see a problem lowering the car a bit. i always prefer the stock look, but your car has been so heavily modified over the years I don't think it would harm anything. I'm personally in favor of keeping the running boards for structural and aesthetic reasons, but it's not my car. Glad to see you're making progress.

The axel and the outer race come out together, as ply33 states. The axel will have two bearings on it, back to back, with a small ridge on the axel separating them. The bearings are a real pain to get off the axel, but at least it’s out. This leaves the inner bearing race and the inner seal still in the axel housing. You need a three-jaw slide puller to get the race out and this process will tear up the inner seal. Fun, huh?

Try putting the drum on loosely with no key and then slamming the drum back on the bolt - I used a large washer to protect the bolt. All you are trying to do is get the outer bearing race free. Hitting the drum won’t work. Sliding it toward you with a hammering motion will. I’ve done it many times. Make sure the backing plates are off and the seals are off. You should be able to see the outer race and the bearing at the end of the axel housing. As you work the drum, you will see the race easing out of the housing.

Maybe it’s different on the 33s, but my 32 Dodge Brothers DL has two bearings on each axle and you have to pull the outer bearing race out to get the axle out. I had to use a slide puller to get it out.

He’s referring to your misspelling (or misuse of the word) brakes as breaks in one of your posts. My mother was a grammar and spelling Nazi, so I ignore this kind of stuff as it brings back unpleasant memories. Breaks for brakes and to for too seem to be the most common problem on these forums.

It’s funny how everyone has a different take on certain cars. To me, the Pininfarina is a rather ugly car. I much prefer the sweeping fenders of other cars to the motorcycle fenders. The body seems too high and the cockpit cutouts above the doors seem all wrong for a car of this type. I think it’s ungainly - in either color combination. I’m sure others find it attractive, I don’t.

1936 Buick coupe with sidemounts. I was brought home from the hospital in that car in May of 1946.

Ply33 has a nice write up on his website if you want to try the repair on the temp gauge yourself.

Also be sure the surface area on the block where the plugs fit is clean and smooth. I used a power washer to clean out my block, inserting the nozzle in the various plug openings and blasting away. An amazing amount of crud washed out. I had the block on an engine stand and rotated it during the clean out.

I tried annealing and they still leaked. Trust me, the Stat-O-Seal washers are the way to go.