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What Engine Oil Do You Use?


likeold

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2 hours ago, likeold said:

I went to dump it out there was a bunch of sludge at the bottom

 

I saw something like that with some 50 year-old oil I 'inherited' from my grandfather, but nothing like that with unopened modern oil.  I've used oil that I've had for three or four years without issue.

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13 hours ago, EmTee said:

Hmmm, so 6 quarts is a 'case' now...?

Yep, several brands do this.

 

Oil price still determined by OPEC, not us (or US).

 

https://www.opec.org/opec_web/en/data_graphs/40.htm

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21 hours ago, Terry Wiegand said:

Never ever heard of that happening in my lifetime.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

AACA Life Member #947918

non synthetic oil is not stable and will start to stratify as the ketones separate as does gasoline. Old oil is not recommended. Never ever try to get a motor to run after years of storage without first changing the oil.   

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On 11/15/2021 at 2:24 PM, Terry Wiegand said:

Old engine oil that has been run in an engine and then left to set for decades is a whole different ballgame than new, unused oil in a plastic quart container.  Come on man😪

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

AACA Life Member #947918

https://www.repairsmith.com/i/blog/does-motor-oil-expire/

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1 hour ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

WELL!  Now I need to drain my new oil if I don't drive the car for over a MONTH.?  Not happening.  If you have old oil over five years old, send it my way if it is not wanted.  Where do folks come up with this stuff?

 

  Ben

 

So I put fresh oil and a new filter in my car to store it for the winter and it goes bad over the winter??  I'm with you. Not going to happen.

 

For grins, I will send the link to my daughter who does oil formulation for vehicles for a large oil company and see what she says.

Edited by Larry Schramm (see edit history)
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Well I talked to my daughter and she said that there might be an expiration date on oil, but that is more for cya on the oil company in case someone would do an analysis on a particular bottle of oil and it might not be exact.  Typically a three year date.

 

That said, it is of her opinion that if a bottle of oil has not been opened, and stored at a moderate temperature it would last for quite some time.  It is of her opinion that if you pour it out of the bottle and it is clear, not cloudy the oil is fine. If it is cloudy, discard it.  If it is older oil and clear she would recommend that you shake the bottle before using it.

 

This is not an absolute rule, but one persons opinion which makes sense to me.

 

 

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When I was a teen my best friend's neighbor had a '68 Chrysler that he ran with 20W year-round for exactly the reason you stated (cold start wear).  I remember thinking at the time that he was crazy, as I used straight 40 or 20W-50 in my '56 Chevy.  Today, I realize he was actually on to something...  Today, both my truck and wife's car use 5W-30 and many new cars are calling for 0W-30.  That's why I have been using 10W-30 in my classic cars.

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  • 1 year later...

     Some years ago my friend gave his daughter her first car and told her to check the oil every time she filled the tank.

     A few months later he checked the oil and saw nothing on the dipstick.

     She said she never fills it, only $5 at a time.

     Any oil is better than no oil.

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11 hours ago, nat said:

     Some years ago my friend gave his daughter her first car and told her to check the oil every time she filled the tank.

     A few months later he checked the oil and saw nothing on the dipstick.

     She said she never fills it, only $5 at a time.

     Any oil is better than no oil.

 Nat, sounds like one of my daughters.   I had an international pickup that liked to play games.  Go for the longest and use no oil, then "overnight" drink a couple quarts.  Daughter was home , fresh from a big D and needed transport.  So I let her use the International.  Same instructions!!   One day she said, Dad the truck is making a funny noise!    Yep,  four quarts to reach THE DIPSTICK.  She had never checked the oil.

 

   Yes, it had a big oil pan.

 

  Ben

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I have the same in my '38 right now.  Had been using NAPA 10W-30, but thought I'd try the 15W-40 Delvac oil as others have been doing.  Seems a bit heavier bodied than the 10W30, but I haven't really noticed any difference in performance.

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I have tried many over the years and Valvoline racing oil with zinc is what I now use in my 41 . Zinc is wonderful stuff for vintage motors. Lab tests have Kendall at the top of many performance trails of non syn oil but can be hard to find in stores. FYI among the worst was Castrol which is good as a cheap break in oil as rings seat quickly. Oil pressure on my 320 increased from 30 hot idle and 45 off idle another 2/3 pounds once I got around to dropping the oil pan for cleaning and replaced the totally sludge clogged oil pickup. My motor has under 40K miles and does not burn a drop but sludge buildup was a problem for these poorly vented crankcases. Also Redline makes a synthetic transmission oil specially blended for vintage vehicle syncros and its excellent stuff that you can really feel right away.  

 

 

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1 hour ago, Lawrence Helfand said:

Also Redline makes a synthetic transmission oil specially blended for vintage vehicle syncros and its excellent stuff that you can really feel right away.

I agree with both Kendall and the Redline transmission oil.  I used 20W-50 Kendall in my '56 Chevy 40 years ago, but as you noted, it has become difficult to find.  I have Redline MTL in my '64 GP and it shifts like butter...  ;)

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5 hours ago, Lawrence Helfand said:

sludge buildup was a problem for these poorly vented crankcases.

      My observations have been that cold running from frequent short trips and/or a cold thermostat is that which creates sludge.

      A 160F thermostat won't do a good job of evaporating condensation or ambient humidity.

      190F is my usual choice.

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On 11/6/2021 at 4:39 PM, Bloo said:

I use it too. It's NS. There is a version with no suffix, but it is wrong for transmissions, so use NS.

 

NR has to be a typo.

I tried to buy non synthetic gear oil at the parts store today and the guy said nobody sells it anymore.

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There is a miscommunication somewhere. When I said that back in 2021, I was referring to the Redline 75W140-NS gear oil that @Lawrence Helfand mentioned earlier in the thread.

 

Redline makes a 75W140-NS and a 75W140. Both are synthetic. 75W140-NS is OK for synchronized transmissions, 75W140 is not.

 

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My 1929 Buick has roller lifters so zinc is not as critical as on flat tappet engines. My car seems to like Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo and Schaffers all in 15W-40 oil. I add one pint of STP for good luck. It hasnt had an engine failure yet. I prefer lesser expensive oil that can be found anywhere.

Edited by raydurr (see edit history)
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I am like  EmTee, while living in  Sacramento for 10 years i did about 120.000 miles,

using  Pennzoil--10w-30  grade oil  in  a 65 Riviera, 67 Riviera, 69 Electra convertible, 69 skylark  convertible, 

73 boattail, 77 regal cpe,  88park avenue, 91 park avenue ultra, and a 53 Skylark after it was run in.

Edited by Wayne R
spelling (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...

I am a zinc zddp believer. I use a 20W40 with zinc blend in! I buy it from local oil distributor who had it made especially for old cars. Been using it for 10 years! I don't believe in zinc additives that are added to modern conventional oils.

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