Frank DuVal

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About Frank DuVal

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  • Birthday 07/11/1955

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    Fredericksburg, VA

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  1. Is it supposed to be a double flare? Single flare not often used on steel. To quote Wikipedia: A single flare is susceptible to cracks propagating from the stretched end of the tube at the bell end of the flare. Cracks in metals propagate more readily from an end or edge than by tearing in the middle of a sheet. A double flare is less susceptible to cracking because the end of the tube remains unstretched. Oil is suggested for flaring. Just not on brake line, where one uses brake fluid as the lubricant so it is compatible.
  2. Generator and voltage regulator are in cahoots to charge the battery. True, as noted above, if either is bad, it can cause a dead battery. But, neither will keep a charged battery from starting an engine! So, is the battery charged? As noted in post by Jeff, use a voltmeter on the battery terminals while someone tries starting the engine. If the battery shows 5+ volts or better during the "click", then put the voltmeter on the battery cable terminals (not the actual lead post of the battery, use the lead part that the wire connects to) and try again. Still have 5+ volts? Move voltmeter leads to starter solenoid, test again. etc etc. Somewhere the voltage will drop to a low level, and the problem will be between the last good reading and the low reading.
  3. Too many variables. In fact, I consider clear coated urethane basecoats to be the easiest to apply if you are speaking metallic paint. Sure, more actual coats applied, but the basecoat is like applying lacquer in the old days. Sand mistakes and continue to apply basecoat. And you can sand and buff the final clear coat, similar (but buffs differently) to lacquer. FYI,, I have no experience with the water base systems so popular now. YMMV* * Internet slang for Your Mileage May Vary, i.e. different stokes for different folks.
  4. Were you the Progressive insured or was the at fault driver Progressive insured? This makes a difference in deciding which company to go with. Unless in a no fault state, you do not get to choose the insurance company to pay you when you are not at fault.πŸ˜‰
  5. This battery is SLA (sealed Lead Acid) and the same amp-hour rating as a garden tractor U-1 battery (35 amp-hours): If you want one with half the amp-hours, here is an 18 amp-hour model: I would take it out and charge it every night on tour. Lots of jump boxes are SLA batteries, not AGM batteries. BTW, three year old U-1 lawn and garden batteries are usually past their useful life. Most have warranty lengths in months, not years.πŸ˜‰
  6. VW Beetles are real easy, just lift trunk lid.πŸ˜‰ Most other cars require laying on your back.😑
  7. In case you can not see it, we are agreeing!πŸ˜‰ Neighborhood I grew up in did not have garages. I didn't have a house with garage until I bought my own house, and then it was almost the only house in the neighborhood with a garage. Post WWII housing boom, people wanted a place to sleep, garages added to cost of house, the car was just an appliance to be obsolete by GM styling in three years anyway. 😁 Only cars off the line that were buffed were ones that didn't pass body inspection. Sure lacquer works fine for collector cars. I've painted lots of it 25+ years ago. No issue there. Just can not buy it around here anymore.
  8. You kept it clean and waxed, didn't you? Never saw the inside of a garage in 42 years? When I say outside, I mean typical outside use, never in a garage, wash once a year, waxed never, typical daily driver abuse. Not collector car use, I hope! We could also talk about that car was painted with OEM re-flow lacquer, not refinish lacquer, a different chemical composition. They did not sand and buff lacquer cars coming off the assembly line!
  9. That's nice, can not buy lacquer top coat around here. Difference in longevity is outside. Any paint seems to last forever if put in a garage clean. Leave lacquer outside, and urethane will outlast it. Of course the urethane will go bad too, given enough time.....πŸ˜‰ The furniture I painted with automotive lacquer still looks great after 35 years! Of course I do not park my furniture outside, usually...πŸ‘
  10. Jereld, where did you measure the gap?
  11. Just add the 12 volt battery to your converter circuit. You have to do that, the converter alone cannot support the current needed for the window motor. Someone already mentioned that, wait, it was me!πŸ˜‰
  12. Yep! Too smart of a charger. Must have some battery voltage to "know" the person (you) did not hook up the cables backwards. I have added a manual start button to a friend's charger. I just avoid buying new ones, repair old ones....πŸ˜‰
  13. Finding so much seat stuffing inside the blower fan squirrel cage on Corvairs over the years I thought it was a GM design to muffle sound! Nice roomy 4" ducts for them to travel through.πŸ‘ Toyota Tercels of the early 80s also had lots of mice in the blower squirrel cage. Another thread just started here suggests using your urine for mouse deterrent. Can't seem to find it right now. Did someone actually remove the posts?
  14. Right, field replacement is always important. Imagine comprehensive insurance coverage rates if the whole car had to e replaced when the windshield cracks!
  15. My '94 has 254k miles on it, engine never been in, transmission might have been in before I purchased it with 65k on the clock. Mine does not have the tow package, yours does (mechanical fan), so mine is the "go fast" model, no wasted HP on mechanical fan.πŸ˜‰ Winter car rust sidelined it for a while, but Cunifer brake lines, new fuel pump solved those issues (and fiberglass patches in quarters😁). Still sporting original exhaust system. will be your friend, as they still have AC Delco parts at good prices. Items to watch out for: Water pump dripping! Whine of failed rear axle bearings. Fix before axles need replacing. Well, they make "repair" bearings.... Leaks from oil cooler lines. Leaks from oil cooler line adapter at oil filter. Rust on steel brake lines-replace! Speedometer cluster gets dirty contacts-numbers read funny Except for one screw, replacing the heater core is the easiest on ANY CAR I have ever worked on. Just need 1/4" socket set and imagination for that screw against the firewall. Excellent purchase!πŸ‘