Robert Engle

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Everything posted by Robert Engle

  1. HPOF and 100 year award! Great to see so many prewar names in person. Bob Engle
  2. I can give you information from the 1930 Dupont Buick Motor Co. paint charts. Unfortunately, I have not heard of anyone that can create a paint match from these old charts. The paint chips are always so discolored that they are useless. Most people look for some areas on their car where the the paint has been out of light and moisture. Areas behind upholstery and panels are good places to check. From the 1930 paint charts, 246-1332 Martinique Blue light 16 5/8 oz. 246-0091 White 7 oz. 246-050 Dark Blue (chinese) 2 1/2 oz. 246-020 Black 5 7/8 oz. 246-073 Dark Green 246-6958 Martinique Blue Deep 12 3/8 oz. 246-050 Dark Blue (chinese) 7 1/2 oz. 246-0091 White 8 oz. 246-020 Black 246-5698 Coronado Tan 25 oz. 246-0091 White 5 5/8 oz. 246-063 Orange 1 oz. 246-020 Black 3/8 oz. 246-070 Light Green All oz. means fluid ounces Bob Engle
  3. I'll be anxious to hear how your method works out. We all are continually looking for ways to keep these cars in peak operating condition. Bob Engle
  4. I haven't seen any mention of the oil heater/cooler system. Is your unit functional? Many have been bypassed. They can affect oil pressure. The spec manual has detailed cleaning processes for the unit. Bob Engle Bob Engle
  5. If you have a Marvel carb, it is critical that the fuel level in the bowl be very close to the idle jet top. About 1/16" is needed. The lower the fuel level, the more vacuum you need to draw the fuel up to mix with the incoming air. I had neglected this on my 1917 D45 and it was hard to start. I marked the inside of the bowl to indicate the idle jet height. I set the float to allow the level to be just below this mark. Starting problem solved. Bob Engle
  6. On the photo with your finger pointing, to the left of your finger there is a slotted head screw in the center of the rocker arm shaft stanchion. This screw indexes the shaft. Bob Engle
  7. The front oil tube lubricates the timing gears and generator front shaft bushings. The tubes can be removed. They usually leak because of damage from large spark plug sockets or rust from water splashed into them from running without the cover on the plug wires. The removal process requires you to make a special tool. It's too complicated to describe simply. Send me a pm and I'll send my phone number and Ican talk you through the process. I don't know of any reproduction cups. You would need to make repairs to the existing ones. Bob Engle
  8. There are many other threads addressing the updraft Marvel carbs. You need to block off the heat controls and disable the operating linkage. That mechanism was for the gas of the 30's that needed heat to help vaporize the low octane fuel. The system can only cause problems and not help anything. The purpose of retarding the timing advance is to reduce the manifold vacuum while making the carb adjustments. I would NOT trust a wood float!!! Get a piece of the nitrile material and fashion a float from it. Set the float level so the fuel level is about 1/16" below the top of the idle jet. You need to make sure the diecast mounting blocks and plates that the are operated by the air valve spring fit the venturi as explained in previous threads. Finally try adding more spark advance than factory specs. With the more volatile fuels they run much better with additional advance. I gradually advance the spark advance and take a test run. then pull a plug and look for a nice toast color. If it's sooty black add some more and try again. Bob Engle
  9. More important than the rockers is that at 1500 to 200 rpm oil must be flowing down the tube to the right of your finger/ this lubricates the timing gears. Bob Engle
  10. The only thing that hold the axles in is the half moon washers that fit in counter bore of the spider gears. There is a brass block that is fitted in between the spider gears and held in place by one screw. The axles can only move inward by the amount of clearance between the axles and the brass block. There are no thrust bearings axial loading. Bob Engle
  11. I am not sure that the handle, mount and escutchion are 1932 Buick parts. On the smaller series cars, the hand has a detent on the inside that locks onto the splines on the regulator and the scutchion is spring loaded against the door panel and the crank handle. This may be why the additional holes were added to hold the assembly together. my knowledge on the 90 series cars is more limited than on teh 50 -60 series cars. I can post photos of the 50 series parts if you are interested. Bob Engle
  12. Trying to copy some of the old manuals with heavy staples holding them together could damage the originals. The Faxon manuals I have gotten do not have the watermarks. BHA is an excellent resource, just slower and more expensive. Bob Engle
  13. I appreciate the work that the BHA does. It is a valuable service. However, I would always look to Faxon and several other literature reproduction places first as their cost is much lower. Bob Engle
  14. 1933 Buick registry has repro bumper end bolts The window regulator looks like a good candidate for the electrolytic rust removal process.There was a good thread showing the process posted recently on the process. Bob Engle
  15. I am working with 3 32 50 series cylinder heads. In the process I noticed on head was marked differently. They all have the same casting numbers. Number 1 & 2 have the Buick logo cast in the head. The 3rd has no Buick logo but has GM cast into the block. All heads came off of 1932 Buicks. Is it possible that the GM head is a later year head that dimensionally is the same as the 1932 Heads?? Bob Engle
  16. If you are going to build a new tank, why not use Stainless steel so you don't need to worry about internal corrosion. Any vented gas tank will collect water in the bottom regardless of the fuel used. I have seen stainless tanks with flanges inset deep enough that the old tank ends could be inset to give original appearance. Bob Engle
  17. The winding and setting stems are missing. Bob Engle
  18. Be sure to form an insulating piece of material and fit inside the cover. Things get crowded around all the connectors on the switch and you don't want any to short to the cover. Bob Engle
  19. It looks to me that the gear housing is worn as much the gear bore and pin. To salvage the housing you would need machine a bronze block and attach it to the gear housing, bore the housing for a good fit with the gear and replace the fixed pin. Lots of millwork to salvage that pump. Bob Engle
  20. The switch for the Buick is a Delco Remy switch. They would not be common to Chrysler products. Some people call them column switches as they work off the bottom of the steering column. There are people that specialize in repairing all types of antique car electrical switches. I don't have any experience that would cause me to make a recommendation. I would think that if you looked in a Hemmings magazine you would find a number of vendors that rebuild these old electrical components. Bob Engle
  21. The light switch was common to all domestic 1932 Buicks. The cover for the switch was common to all 1931 and 1932 Buicks. The switches are scarce. I sold all my spares years ago. Bob Engle
  22. I had looked into buying a 25 Master last year. Too much added stuff for me. Photo of interior confirms the plating. Bob Engle
  23. The water jacket cover is a chronic problem with rust through. The common cure was to put a flat plate of sheet metal in between the original cover and the block. I suspect your car may have this added piece if no coolant is leaking out of the pin holes. I have not heard of any problems with this added plate. My one note of caution is that many of the screw holes for the plate are through holes into the water jacket, making it imperative that a sealant be used on the screw threads to prevent leakage at the the screws. Bob Engle
  24. The attached photos show that you need to move the generator assembly rearward about an inch to clear the bore. It is a close sliding fit. Try rotating the generator assembly to break it loose from years of crude and heat. Bob Engle
  25. I often wish that shows would have a "Put the hoods down" timeframe. The lines on these car with the hoods open and trunk lids up are ruined and also those that want photos don't have an opportunity to get good shots. Hoods up and trunk lids open in the real world mean the car broke down. Bob Engle