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Robert Engle

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Everything posted by Robert Engle

  1. I've had good luck with the nitrphyl floats in My 18 and 32. I keep a block handy just in case a friend needs a float. I've also had good luck marking the inside of the bowl about 1/16" below the idle jet tip. Setting the float level to that mark has worked for me. Bob Engle
  2. I can't tell you what it is, but it is not a 1932 Buick lense. They 9 15/16" in diameter. Being a larger diameter, It probably is earlier than 1932. Bob Engle
  3. On the 32 engines I have worked with, I have found that removing the rear head bolts ( at #8 cylinder) and rodding and flushing through these bolt holes is important. Bob Engle
  4. Check with the model A ford parts suppliers. Macs, Snyders, Bratton. Bob Engle
  5. I thought I would share some experience with 32-50 rear axles. They are made from forgings. The general surface of the shafts are really rough and you can often see occlusions into the shaft. The axles are held in place with a C washer inside the differential gears. With the high gear ratios on these cars the axle can be subjected to torque spikes and the axles will stress crack. The entire wheel can then exit the car. The other design feature is that the outer roll cage bearings are inboard of the wheel center line, so the axle will flex and this also can lead to axle failure. The brake drums are held in place by means of a tapered axle shaft and a key. If the brake drums are not tightly torqued onto the axle, the drums will work loose and wear the taper on the axle and drum. The key will be the only thing keeping the wheel from spinning on the shaft. The key will fret and wallow out the keyways. This means finding new axles and drums. Many jackleg repairs were made with shimstock and step keys in an attempt to keep the cars on the road. On the grease seals, the good news is that you can find modern seals that will fit in the seal retainer. If any of the above failures occurred, the seal retainer has probably been damaged and will need replacing. Bob Engle
  6. my17-d45 unrestored but worked on over it's life, has stops on front doors and none on the back. The top of the back seat is painted black metal. the bottom is glued onto the seatback and appears to be the same as the door panels. Bob Engle
  7. In my opinion, the real key to torqueing cylinder heads is to torque in small increments, I usually start at about 25 ft-lbs, starting near the center and working circularly till all are done. then I torque again at 35ft-lbs circularly again. I keep working up in increments until the final desired torque is reached. Then after running the engine to get it warm, do one final check. The torque settings are also dependent on using the original correct grade of headbolts. Too many people think a grade 8 bolt is better than the original grade. The purpose of torqueing the bolts is to get the correct stretch in the bolts so they maintain tension throughout all operating conditions. Bob Engle
  8. 1932 50 series axles are the same, left and right. late 31 50 series cars use the same axles as 1932 50 series. Early 31 series cars use different axles. Bob Engle
  9. PM me, I think I have some spares on the shelf. Will double check tomorrow. Bob Engle
  10. I bought a 1917 D45 several years ago. I love driving the car and people like seeing the valvetrain in action. Some issues that seem to be common with the teens Buicks; I had to replace the differential gears as I found metal chips when I changed fluids; The band brakes can be problematic. Getting the outer bands to fit properly takes some real patience. The cone clutch may need attention if it hasn't been well cared for. I had to rebuild the carb, nytrile float, and a good cleaning and it works well. Lots of grease cup lubrication points all over the car. I dropped the pan and reshimmed the bearings and cleaned the oil pump and oil distribution tube. this is not a difficult job. Take a good look at the wiring. I replaced most but it is a simple system. There are a fair number of these teens Buicks and a lot of very helpful people to answer questions. Parts are moderately available for the consumables. Other than that, they are about the same challenges that you would find with the 30's Buicks. Bob Engle
  11. The tapping noise you hear may be your fuel pump as it cycles at camshaft speed. Bob Engle
  12. The more photos I see, the more I can see the quality of the restoration. The Sandoz clock is a $500 to $700 value. That being said, If anyone plans to show the car, There will be a lot of work to get many things correct. I'm not trying to degrade the car, but it will most likely not get a senior AACA award. From the engine bay, I see several zirk fittings that were not correct for 1932. Most likely the undercarriage will have the same issue. I see a spiral loc clamped rubber hose to the fuel pump' This would have been a compression fitting brass line. The same for the for the oil filter hoses. These also would have brass fittings and tubing These upgrades make it easier to maintain, but they will take points away on a judged car. It will come down to what the buyer wants with the car and is willing to pay for. Bob Engle
  13. In the end result, it comes down to a willing buyer and a willing seller. It's a tough business to buy antique cars and expect to sell them for a profit. Some people see a car and fall in love with it and are willing to pay what's needed to own the car. The other thing to remember, almost any car, except one off a quality restoration will require some $ to get it into a good running condition. New tires, tubes and flaps for the 57S will cost $1,500. Bob Engle
  14. It's a nice looking car. The 50 series were the low end of the spectrum in 1932. There were 9,766 57S models built in 1932, (a relatively high number). To be considered a concourse restoration, all details must be exacting in correctness and condition. From the few photos posted, I noticed that it lacks pinstriping, The black painted trim rings on the hubcaps are missing. The front and rear upholstery appear different colors (may be photo color fidelity. It would be a good AACA senior award car. In my estimation from the few photos and with no photos of the engine compartment, I would consider the price range to be $10,000 to $15,000. A scarce model or large series car with low production numbers would fetch a much higher amount. Bob Engle
  15. I use 10-40 in my 32 Buick. Just watch your oil pressure. If it drops when warm, increase the oil weight. Some people switch to synthetics, but I prefer to change the oil regularly. Bob Engle
  16. The radiator systems on these early Buicks are a non pressure open system. First check the tube that you see looking down into the radiator cap. water should readily flow out this tube and leak onto the ground. When the system is cold, you should have the water level just above the top of the radiator core. I prefer to add additional water knowing that as it heats up excess water will flow out the tube mentioned above. With respect to the thermostat, I would not be concerned unless you plan to drive the car in very cold conditions. with respect to the thermometer, I have found them to be vey unreliable. I like to use a hand held infrared beam thermometer. With the engine warm and running, I check the temperature across the radiator core. I check the inlet and outlet at the water pump. If you do not find temperatures above 180 degrees Farenheit, You do not not have any serious engine cooling problems. From what I see from the photos posted, You need to replace the water pump impellor. At the same time you will want to check the shaft and packing for the water pump. You can easily make a cork gasket for the cap, but it is more to prevent the cap from rattling. At the thermostat housing, I would just make a gasket for now. Do not worry about the radiator core unless you experience overheating or leaking from the core. I suspect your only immediate issue is the water pump. Get that rebuilt and use the thermometer to see that the system is operating in a range below 180 Degrees. I'm sure you will get other suggestions, but I believe in starting simple and only go further if you have some real overheating issues. Welcome to the world of old Buicks Bob Engle
  17. While I would like to have a first decade Buick, I have decided to pass on the 1908's at the auction. Neither has a running engine. It's been a long time since they ran and nobody can determine their condition. I do not want to have to spend $10,000 plus to get a car in running condition. I'll just have to be patient and look for a known driveable car. Bob Engle
  18. Are there any prewar participants that are familiar with these cars? Will any of you be going to the auction? I sure would like some expert assistance in determining the condition and value of the 1908 cars. PM me if you can be of assistance. Bo Engle
  19. 1931 and 1932 Buicks have the same generator systems. The system includes the cutout relay mounted on the top of the generator. there is also a thermal cut out inside the generator. you should be able to see this with the band removed. The functions, adjustments and troubles shoot of these devises is described in the 1932 Specifications and adjustments manual for 1932. I assume the 1931 manual has the same information. I suggest you get a reproduction of this manual and follow the instructions to check out your system. Bob Engle
  20. It is interesting that many of the old photos of a single person with their car is usually with the top down. However, when I look at photos of lots of parked cars, The top are up. Bob Engle
  21. I think the only timing you need to be concerned about is the distributor to the timing marks on the flywheel. Since you can't turn the engine, to get to the flywheel marks, I would take a photo with the distributor cap removed, so you can assemble close to what you have now and then make a final distributor cam adjustment when you can turn the engine to the timing marks. Bob Engle
  22. You should be able to remove the band on the generator to inspect the brushes commutator. There should be a current limit relay up under the dash. it should buzz if there is a short in the light circuits. The horn and motor electrical is not protected. Start simple, disconnect the horns at the starter and see if that corrects the problem. If the problem persists, you are down to the the ignition switch, ammeter, distributor system and generator system. You can disconnect the wire from the generator and see if the short goes away. If it does, the problem is in the generator system. I hope this helps. bob Engle
  23. It sure is nice to have access to a distributor machine to test and set up distributors, especially the dual point 32 ones. Bob Engle
  24. PA registration laws are a mess. I bought a 1957 Continental out of an estate sale in PA. It was titled as a 1956 because all Mark II's serial numbers begin 56C****. When I asked the lawyer how to get the title corrected he told me that you had to hire an investigator to go back and research the vehicle history and then hire a lawyer to take it to court and get a judge to rule on making the correction. I left the title alone and registered it in Virginia as a 1956. It wasn't worth the $5000 to get it corrected. Bob Engle
  25. I would start with just plain water. Let the engine come to temperature and use an infrared thermometer to check for hot and cold spots on the engine and radiator core. If it shows uniform temps, drain the system and then add your green antifreeze. On the open systems, I run just water until fall and then add the antifreeze for the winter. Just my preference. Bob Engle
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