Robert Engle

If you have the piece attached to the tube at the bottom of the gearbox, The rod to the throttle body is a simple piece to fabricate. I think I have a spare block that threads onto the rod and has a through hole to slip onto the link at the throttle body shaft. I can give you specs on the rod. Threads on one end and a 90 degree bend on the other end. You would need to determine the length which isn't overly critical as the block threads onto the rod. Let me know if you want to proceed. Bob

The lever on the steering column turns a tube that runs down to the bottom of the steering gearbox. There,is a lever arm attached at the bottom of the steering gear box. The attached photo shows the rod that is attached at the bottom of the steering gear box and the upper end attaches to the linkage on the carb throttle body. The lever at the steering gearbox is die cast and many are broken. Bob Engle

The spark control is actually a spark retard. Pull the knob out and the distributor rotates retarding the spark. This can be seen with a timing light. I'll look for photos on the steering column throttle advance. I Have lots of 50 series pics, but I will need to search my files for 90 series engine bay photos. Bob Engle

I have been fighting an idle problem myself on my 33.58. A critical point on these carbs is fuel level. the idle jets have a bowl shaped top. The fuel level in the float bowl must be at a level that has the fuel level in the idle jet bowl. Float too high and the idle jet will flood,causing leakage out the air intake. Fuel level too low, no gas in jet bowl, and the intake air not pick up the fuel properly. Adjusting the float level will correct these problems. The bowl on the idle jet is only about 1/32" deep. One other issue is needle valve not eating properly. This will allow excess fuel into the idle system. Needle valve setting can be observed with the top cover off of the fuel bowl. For your leakage issue, You can instal a vacuum gauge on the manifold vacuum line to the Wizzard control to observe any vacuum leaks. Bob Engle

Looks good! There should be a heat shield between the exhaust to carb and air cleaner. They are scarce as they got thrown away as they are a nuisance to instal. Bob Engle

keyway location is inconsequential as distributor can be timed to the gear. Bob Engle

All my gears show wear. If you can't find any anywhere else, I think the best of my used parts would be okay for a casual driver. Bob Engle

According to my parts manual, the distributor drive gear on the generator is the same part for all 1931/1932 engines. I'll check my part pile to see the condition of my spare gears. Bob Engle

A standard 10 -32 screw will work in place of the original hex screw. There is some kind of material in the linkage that keeps the screw from backing out. If you look closely at the link you will see what I mean. Bob Engle

It's easier to set that screw setting while it is off the car. You can see when the throttle plates are fully closed. Bob Engle

10-32 threads with a square head. Bob Engle

I noticed that the idle adjust screw is missing on the linkage. Bob Engle

There were only 365 32-68C's built. This makes them very scarce. There were 13,753 32-60 series cars produced. So there is a reasonable pool of cars for drive components. Due to the scarcity of 68C's body work parts will be very scarce. Almost everyone I know that has a 32 Buick are very happy with the road manners and driveability of these cars. I know several people that put 1000 miles a year on their car. As for value, The condition is prime consideration. It will not match a concourse level CCCA classic level, but It's overall scarcity and condition will determine its value. Bob Engle

Why not put a spare battery in a box and put it in the trunk with jumper cables. In my mind the risk of failure is minimal. The equipment can be moved to other cars if needed. Bob Engle

I used an air tool with 3" X 1/8" grinding disk when a wrench won't work. Just wear goggles. Bob Engle

Not correct for 1932. they had a more modern style where you pull it off the tube. Bob Engle

I made a section for my 32 Buick by bending a piece of conduit to match the original contour and then cut a slice off off the tubing on my band saw. I filled the inner radius with caulking. Bob Engle

Contact Vintage Motorcar. 304 821 1326. Martinsburg WV. They have the skills and tooling. Bob Engle

Great job!! You can start a side business making gas tanks. Did you consider making the tank out of stainless? Bob Engle

I use a screw driver blade that comes from a set of screw driver blades from a hex rachet set. There are tubes pressed into the heat riser that are a common problem from heat and corrosion eating holes in the tubes. They are a pain to replace. Be verry careful with the heat riser as they are prone to cracking and there is no supply of good ones for replacement. Bob

If the engine runs at high rpms, it is not a fuel pump problem. There is a hex fitting on the bottom of the fuel bowl 3/4" hex. Remove this and check the screen for dirt. Bob Engle

I've been facing the same issue on my 32 58. First, remove the fuel bowl cover, hook up a vacuum gauge at the wiper connection. With engine running, observe the fuel level in the bowl. The fuel level needs to be about 9/16 inch below the the top of the fuel bowl. vacuum should be close to 15 inches. Low vacuum will not pick up fuel from the idle jet. Low fuel level will cause the same problem. Crude in the fuel system can flood the fuel bowl and won't maintain the correct level in the bowl. An old cork float can become saturated and mess up the fuel level. Bob Engle

On the cam shaft, I would consider turning the surface down on the damaged journal and heat shrinking a replacement and grinding it to spec. There are no lateral forces to move it. I would rebabbit all the bearing shells. You certainly don't want to tackle this job again. Bob

I'm not sure how the dimensions match up with a 32 50 series. If the OD of the bearings are the same, I may be able to provide you with used bearing shells that only need fresh babbit. Let me know what you find and I'll dig through my pile of parts and see if I can help. Bob Engle

With proper specs, The piece is lathe work. I would trust a good steel lathe turned piece over old cast parts. Bob Engle