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Robert Engle

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Everything posted by Robert Engle

  1. Attached are photos of 32 hood rest components. the bracket would have a piece of welting rivited to the bottom outer surface. The second photo shows the cowl and the raised ridge is where you would rest the hood with the welting protecting the painted surface. Bob Engle
  2. I have good luck by setting the toe first. It is an easy adjustment and has cured several cars of wondering. If that doesn't work then tackle the caster shimming. Bob Engle
  3. I would not recommend pulling it to start. I have had two cars with broken pinion gears in the differential. I know one definitely broke from a push start attempt. If it won't start with the starter, go to the basics. Timing, fuel and spark. If these are correct you should be able to get it running. If you are not sure about these settings, seek a local expert to sort the 3 items to proper functioning. This forum can help you sort this out. Bob Engle
  4. The tank is a vacuum fuel pump. Bob Engle
  5. Post the casting numbers will help with your search success. Bob Engle
  6. What series 31 is your car? I'll check to see if any 32 50 series ubolts will fit your car. I think I may have some usable ones. Bob Engle
  7. You can make your own harnesses for about half the cost of custom ones from the reputable suppliers. Yes it takes some time, but for me the process of working on and keeping these old cars in running condition is a source of satisfaction. I buy my wiring components from John Brillman. He takes modern wire and weaves the different original patterns over the wire. He sells the correct loom for the outer covers. My parts manuals only go to 1932 so I don't have info for 1933. My guess is that they are the same. There are 3 harnesses in 1932. one from the light switch on the bottom of the steering column to the front headlights, fender lamps and horns. Second one from light switch at the bottom of the steering column to the tail lights and gas gage. third harness is the bigger challenge. It is in behind the firewall panel. I carries wires to the generator and coil. I would suggest that you can run these two wires without loom and tuck them under the top edge of the panel. run loom on the outside of the firewall in loom. Wiring connections on the back of the dash are a nuisance to get to. Most people remove the retaining screws for the dash and pay it open for making the connections. Feel free to contact me by Private message or email bengle1917@gmail.com. I can provide the 1932 wiring info, charts and wire sizes and patterns. Bob Engle
  8. On the intake manifold top, there is a vacuum fitting that feeds vacuum to the wipers and the wizzard control. Remove and plug the wizzard control valve line. Then test run your car and see if that solved your problem. Most likely it won't. 32Buick67 has your solution if plugging the line fails. There are no parts on the steering column to the wizzard control system. There is a red button on the floor under the clutch that activates the Wizzard clutch control. Bob Engle
  9. All 32 Buicks had dual points. I think 1933's had single point ignition. Bob Engle
  10. Thanks for the photos. Beautiful car!!! It looks correct to the information that I have collected. Bob Engle
  11. Thanks Don: Your information matches with Mac's and the 3 cars that I have photos of the pinstriping. Bob Engle
  12. Don would you happen to have some photos? I would like to add any pinstripe photos to my research papers. I see so many incorrect cars ands I have photos from 3 original cars to date. Bob Engle
  13. Assuming that your 57S is color symbol 276 guardsman blue and black, The pinstripes would have been Riviera Cream. The pinstripes do not follow the pattern described by Mac Blair. There are no known original paint 1932 cars with pinstriping on the fenders. If you have documentation of the car shown that contradicts the paint charts, I would like to get a copy of that information to add to my research. Bob Engle
  14. Since 1993 when I purchased my 1932 model 58, I've been attempting to become knowledgeable about all aspects of the 26 American models produced in 1932. With my Victoria coupe now out for upholstery, I'm down to one final project, that to get the car pinstriped. With all the 32's I've seen over the last 30 years, there appears to be no consistency in location, width and color of the pin stripes. There are Dupont paint charts that "name" the stripe colors. I have not found any paint charts to show the correct colors. Fortunately our 1932 Guru, Mac Blair made a study of pin striping and published his findings on colors, width of stripes and locations of the stripes. He made charts to detail the locations of the stripes. Unfortunately, many restored cars do not adhere to Mac's findings. The number of unrestored cars that have not been repainted are very limited. I recently purchased a 1932 56S Buick. All indications lead me to believe that this car has not been repainted. It is painted Grenadier Maroon with Grenadier Maroon Dark reveals. All lower body parts (fenders, apron and splash pans) are Black. I intend to keep this car unrestored. The pinstripes are gone on much of the reveals, but you can see the gloss of the paint that was under the pinstripe that shows their locations. The Vermilion appears more red that the orange of modern vermilion paint. There is no gold showing anywhere on the car. My guess is that the gold paint was not as durable as the vermilion. I have taken photos of all places where I can see striping or gloss where striping existed. Mac's research says the pinstripes should be less than 1/16"ans spaced about 1/8" between the stripes. The gold stripe is always on the outside edge of the reveal. There are no pinstripes on the fender reveals. Model 56 and 57 should have no striping on the lower body reveals. I'm sure some people will question these observations, as is their privilege. I will share photos with anyone that is interested. I know of one 1932 57S in original black paint with both stripes Vermilion. I have photos of this car also. If you know of any original paint unrestored 32's, I would appreciate the opportunity add their pinstripe info.
  15. What idle rpm are you set at? My guess would be too much fuel pressure is flooding the carb and it takes a lot of air volume to get it somewhat stable. Disconnect the fuel line at the carb and connect a good quality pressure gauge and power the electric pump and get a reading. anything over 2 psi can be a problem. What color is the exhaust pipe ? Pull a plug and check it's color. Get in touch with Dean Tryon. He lives in North Carolina. He is an expert on early Buick fuel systems. Bob Engle
  16. additional photos of 1917 D45 head lights from my unrestored car. Bob Engle
  17. right photo is from a 32 57S It is a black car and specs call for Vermillion pin stripes. 2nd and 3rd are a 32 56S Grenadier maroon and black paint and specs call for gold and vermillion. Apparantly the gold did not hold up well to weathering as none show anywhere on the car but you can see the base paint has a stripe showing where the gold preserved the original paint. Bob Engle
  18. I've been working on 1932 original correct pinstriping information. I hope to present what info I have collected from 2 original painted cars and Mac Blair's research In the 90's on correct pinstriping. At this point I can confirm that Buick did not have pinstriping on fenders, aprons and lower body panels. Pinstriping was only on the body reveals and the dashboard. I forgot to mention wood wheels had pinstriping also. Bob Engle
  19. I will respectfully disagree with using high grade bolts in place of original lower grade bolts. The original bolts worked quite satisfactorily at a 9" wrench torque. Higher grade bolts require higher torque to perform properly. Higher torque will put undo stress on the castings. Think of the bolt as a spring. It must be stretched a bit to work properly. Bob Engle
  20. I would be interested in a few parts as spares for my car. Send a PM or email me at bengle1917@gmail.com. Bob Engle
  21. Send me a PM if you are interested in the clutch pressure plate, disk and throughout bearing. They are used and will need reconditioning for good operation. We can talk about the exhaust manifolds that I have and what your expectations are. Bob Engle
  22. I have several exhaust manifolds that have been welded. Let me know if you are interested and I'll take photos. I'll check my clutch parts and see if there is anything repairable. Bob Engle
  23. 1931 was a transition year for Buick. The early straight 8's had bronze cam bearings which were subject to engine seizure. Part way through the year they went to synchronized transmissions and a different clutch mechanism. Bob Engle
  24. To raise the steering wheel you must loosen the two fasteners on the plate just under the dash. You must loosen the 3 bolts that mount the steering gear box to the frame. When you raise the steering assembly, the steering wheel will rotate off center. locked in this condition, You will affect how far the steering wheel turn the vehicle. One direction will be less turn and the other direction will be more turn. To correct this you will need to change the shims in the sector shaft to bring the steering wheel back to center. The broken arm is diecast material and it is virtually impossible to find a good used part. Tough piece to fabricate!! Bob Engle
  25. The stamped plate that contains the felt seal is mounted against the backing plate on the outer side. 5 bolts on a 50 series. Not sure about 60 series. Excess diff fluid and too thin a fluid can cause leakage problems through the felt seals. Bob Engle
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