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Robert Engle

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Everything posted by Robert Engle

  1. Block up under the oil pan. You may need to replace the fiber timing gear. Mark your timing to get the cam back in sync with the crankshaft. Remove pushrods and lifters. I believe a 32 cam will work fine with cam bearings fitted to the cam. . How would you know that you have good 32 engine? I would prefer a rebuild knowing the condition of all components to a supposedly good used engine. Bob Engle
  2. brass pins go in the holes and into the cam bearing to keep the bearings located in the block. the pins are not flush with the outer block surface. Care must be used to not set the pins too deep and rub on the cam surface. Bob Engle
  3. the master parts manual shows the same bearings for 31 and 32. Cams have different numbers. I think the cam profile is different between the 2 years. The cam can be pulled without removing the engine. However changing the cam bearings in the car will be a challenge. You will want to get a good flush on the block to remove any metal particles in the bottom end. Bob Engle
  4. I have some spare parts such as the vacuum chamber and the intake manifold fitting that directs vacuum to the valve assembly under the manifolds. Let me know what you are missing and I will search my part bins and send photos of what I have. The factory specs and adjustments manual has good drawings of the entire assembly. Bob Engle
  5. The wizzard valve on the transmission appears bronze on the top. you will need to clean the gunk covering the valve body to make sure. Be prepared for a major learning experience if you plan to make the Wizzard control operational. I've never attempted it, but I just put the parts on to look correct. Bob's Automobilia has the pedal pads. There are probably other sources as well. Bob Engle
  6. On the water pump, They are fairly easy to rebuild. Impellors and packing is available from Bob's Automobilia. Usually the leakage problem just needs packing. Follow the instructions in the 1932 Buick manual. The honey comb radiators have a tendency to lose flow as the openings for the water to flow top to bottom trap sediment due to the small passageways. I remove the radiators and turn them upside down and let water flow from the bottom to the top. The radiator should drain in 2 to 4 seconds. When the engine is hot, use an infrared thermometer to scan the radiator for hot or cold spots. Bob Engle
  7. wizzard control photos. There were two different valve systems, one has brass cast parts. More cars had the diecast parts. Bob Engle
  8. I used the original rivet holes for mounting the new tag. Bob Engle
  9. 1932 model 58 data plates. The original large plate had the heaterhose through the plate. Bob
  10. There are many data plates where they drilled right through the data plates to install the heaters. My32-58 was that way. Bob Engle
  11. Per the mast parts list 1916 to 1932, The operating valves, and vacuum cylinder assembly are common to all series in 1932. Linkage and piping are unique to each series. Bob Engle
  12. I'll have to check and see if the wizzard parts are the same for all models. I have some parts from a 50 series car. My question to you is do you want to make it an operating system or just look original? Bob Engle
  13. Buick did list the 1932-96C as a 4 passenger convertible coupe roadster. Info from "Buick Facts for 1932". This book was for the Buick dealers and salesmen. The first line in the book states "This four-passenger Convertible Coupe Roadster combines admirably the advantages of Coupe and Roadster, and provides a wide variety of uses." Bob Engle
  14. Interesting combination! Replacement horn trumpets?? or earlier owner liked the black look? Bob Engle
  15. In 1932 both the 56 and 57 models were the base models. 56S and 57S were the deluxe models. the base models had only one tail light assembly on the left rear. The horn trumpets were black and the headlight stanchions were black. The deluxe models had both rear tail lights and chrome horns and headlight stanchions. One word of caution on this, many restorers added these features to the base models. Bob Engle
  16. I like to use cornhead grease in the steering gears on my 1917 and 1932 cars. Less chance of leakage, but becomes fluid upon stirring and grease thickness when Idle. Bob Engle
  17. it's most likely a 31. 32 badge bars were curved. Bob Engle
  18. I do have a set of front brake shoes in reasonable used condition. There is enough lining that you could possibly use them as is. That would be your call. Send me a text message to 540 247 8634 and I can attach a photo. I would want $10 per shoe plus shipping cost. I am having computer problems accepting my phone photos. Bob Engle bengle1917@gmail.com
  19. I wouldn't know any other way to assemble it. Bob Engle
  20. I can probably come up with front brake shoes. They would need to be relined. I'll check tomorrow and let you know what I have. Bob Engle
  21. The question is how high do you want the car on the jack stands? if you just want the tires off the ground for removal, the 3 ton stands will do just fine. If you want more room to roll under the car on a creeper for lubing and oil pan removal etc. Get the 6 ton stands. Bob Engle
  22. I have had good luck putting one of the spring benders on the tube and then using the regular bender to make the bend.
  23. I would braze the pinholes and then JB Weld. I have several of these covers that have brazing at the hose conector. Bob
  24. 50 series is different then all other series. 1930 through 1932 60,80,90 all use the same cap. Info from 1916 -1932 master parts list. Bob Engle
  25. There are several grades of JB Weld. Get the thinner one. On the water jacket cover bolts. Most are difficult to remove as they are rusted on the inside. I replace the bolts with Stainless ones. I turn the markings off the head in the lathe and paint them black. I use a liberal coat of permatex on the bolt threads. One other cautionary note, on the very back end of the cylinder water jacket, lots of crude builds up in that back corner. I go down through the back cylinder head bolt threads with an airgun to blow out that back corner. #8 cylinder runs hot on old engines with poor circulation in that area. Bob Engle
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