Lawrence Helfand

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About Lawrence Helfand

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  • Birthday 05/05/1949

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  1. Hi Matt, That surging might be your advanced timing. I had experienced throttle sensitivity on my car after pushing my timing forward and tried a more aggressive technique to tame it but I decided to retard it a little to good effect and smoother throttle response.
  2. Never been a fan of those extra bumper ends especially on a sedanette where it detracts from the line of the rear fender. Indeed to much bling. Your gorgeous limited could do without them. Only thing worse from my perspective is a giant wind catching windscreen visor and dual spotlights. I don't even like whitewalls except on ragtops and never on a formal car.. Less is more on a beautiful car.
  3. I love how methodical you are Matt and now I will have to check my airflow with a synch meter which I didnt do on mine. With idle mixture screws I always use the same approach as I do with the Dellorto carbs on my Ducati's which is screwing them in until the motor starts to stumble and then backing out until rpm picks up and smooths out. Now I will need to get a vacuum gauge like a real tuner! My chokes are set light enough to be fully open in about 2 minutes which is plenty of time for it to settle into a nice smooth idle. Its not an easy motor to stall even when cold. Seven minutes seems like a long time. Cant wait to hear how it feels out on the road!
  4. Hi Matt, Make sure that rear idle screw is backed away from choke cam so it cant make contact as the front carb screw will now control the idle speed for both carbs. Also I moved pump arms to the shortest throw. Guessing you already did that! Thanks for the kudos! Your limited with the new improved breathing is likely picking up another five hp easily. The 1952 320 with the quad was rated at 170 hp and I think it had a lower compression ratio. Dont know if they changed cam lift or duration or if hp increase was just better breathing. Might now be a 41 unlimited!
  5. My 41 factory timing specifications presume you are using fuel with the octane rating of 1941 which was under 80. Many cars including my old Toyota had an advance adjuster on the distributor for the sole purpose of ignition advance or retard depending on octane of fuel. If you set your timing to prewar factory recommendations your ignition will be retarded and you will run a little hotter and use more fuel. I use an 86 octane non ethanol regular and have advanced my timing quite a lot and to excellent effect. I suggest advancing as much as possible without inducing pre ignition under load which will become apparent by accelerating in top gear from low speed with full throttle. Using vacuum as an indicator takes octane into account in real time and will be a better path to good timing then factory flywheel settings which are no longer relevant unless your using 76 octane gas.
  6. I always liked Dynaslug and Slushmatic ...Slow and steady certainly has its advantages just ask Barry White (rip) but not for winning races except for reptiles vs rodents of course
  7. Judy if you want a faster 52 Buick find yourself a Century or Roadmaster which make more power
  8. Hi Matt, You will find it takes very little heat to activate the rear choke tube. Mine is not connected to any fitting at the end and merely comes into contact with the exhaust manifold surface. I did pinch a small bit of foil shaped like a funnel at the end to gather a bit more heat. After a few cycles of warming up and cooling down I managed to adjust the pair of choke butterfly's so they were in synch. I dont use the factory cold closed setting that allows a small amount of open position. I did try it but it required more spring resistance then keeping it slightly cracked open to work properly so mine are fully closed from the start. It catchs almost immediately from cold and spins a few times when warm before starting. I recently looked at the plug color and it was the same medium cocoa colored insulator on every plug. I changed out my AC R46 plugs for slightly hotter Champion RJ12C. I suggest you drop off the limited for an OD install ASAP! Glen and Bob are really fast and efficient and now have the experience of doing mine. You will love your Limited ten times more and want to drive it everywhere! I cannot get over what a difference it makes and I love my Century more then ever!
  9. The best washers for this application are plentiful and inexpensive and sold for Jeep Wranglers on Ebay. Use the thick copper faced gaskets coated with an oil and graphite slurry on both sides and torque to less then factory spec. I use 18 lbs to accomplish a good seal and have great vacuum with strong fast windshield wiper action which is always a good indicator of well sealed intake manifold. I also raise the hood on a warm day to release hot air after a drive as it gets amazingly hot. Just unlatching it and placing a small wood block under the edge works quite well to release hot air.
  10. FYI, Another issue seldom mentioned in carburetor performance is the amount of vacuum your engine has and a good indication of that will be the performance of your windshield wipers. If they are moving slowly or not at all after engine reach's operating temperature then its likely you have vacuum loss at the intake manifold. If it has never been serviced with new gaskets or re tightening then its likely that its losing vacuum. This will greatly affect carburetor performance especially with twin carb intake. Its a job made considerably easier if you have a chain hoist as its heavy and unwieldy but with a hoist its a simple job. I used a thick copper gasket and a slurry of oil and graphite on both sides for expansion and contraction which is important to avoid cracking the manifold in the cool down part of the heat cycle. Use Jeep wrangler dished spring washers that allow for movement while retaining tension. I use 18 lbs torque a bit less then factory spec. Engine advance carburetion wiper speed and power are all improved.
  11. In regards to a smooth idle. Since I replaced my rear carb with a matching front carb removed the rear carb intake flap and converted to parallel linkage the idle is now quite smooth steady and at times imperceptible. Before this modification I could never get it balanced enough to be happy and it always shook and hunted a bit. I do not think there is enough lift to the cam profile to be an issue. The stock setup is a poor design and will never work correctly. It will always be a compromise and the vacuum operated rear flap is a crude device at best. In regards to stuck heat risers never leave them stuck closed. I keep mine pinned open at all times. Tapping the shaft on alternate sides with some WD or equivalent will free it up. Grip the circular counterweight with a vice grip and work it loose moving back and forth until full range is achieved/ Takes a while but it will work itself free. Both of mine were stuck with zero movement but loosened. I use aviation hose clamps around the counterweights with adjusters set against manifold to hold them open. Heating the intakes is really unnecessary except for winter driving. when its cold it just means a couple more minutes to warm up the motor.
  12. I took a look at the setup again which is not visible in my install photos and will add that the flange at the other end is half the diameter but still has 16 bolts of a larger diameter holding it together. The bolt drilling could not be any closer so I wouldn't call it so few bolts really. You can visit the Gear Vendors website to see more.
  13. Hi Jack, yes you do use the clutch if you want to avoid a ka klunk from the OD. Just like having a 4th gear
  14. That end is a bit different as the casing go's deeper with more overlap perhaps explaining why it has less bolts. It may be more robust then my 165 hp car requires so should last longer then me!
  15. Apples and oranges in regards to mechanical stress dynamics. If you work your broom or shovel too hard will it break off at the very end or somewhere along the shaft? I find I am left with a broken shaft whatever the tool employing a long handle, usually the middle. It is close to the rear end on my car but the torque tube kit is designed to be inserted anywhere on the shaft like in the middle if thats what the application calls for where stress would be the highest.