Lawrence Helfand

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About Lawrence Helfand

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  • Birthday 05/05/1949

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  1. Neil, is that a normal oil pressure at idle for a 248 ? Hot my 320 is 30 at idle and 45/6 cruising. Do you know if your crank bearings were redone?
  2. My 41 Century wipers work very well. The key is having a good unit and good vacuum. If yours are slow you likely have poor vacuum due to leaky lines or leaky carb mount gaskets or intake manifold gaskets. Measure your vacuum and if low tighten up the carbs and intake bolts for starters. If its still low and your lines are all fresh including to ignition advance you might need fresh gaskets especially the intake. After replacing mine my wipers went from sluggish to to slapping fast at idle and cruising. When accelerating hard they will slow down of course as vacuum drops. Remember when the glass is wet they move faster then when dragging across a dry surface. Who drives in the rain anyway except for when out on a tour.
  3. No need to remove anything to fill the rear shocks just jack up the rear and slide in there. Pull off the top cap and fill
  4. All angles gorgeous except the front which is a weird disconnected combination of design elements that do not relate to each other. Looks like a mish mosh of ideas thrown together and the flat looking windshield is less then elegant. A split glass with a little angle would help. Side and rear are exquisite but earlier front end is much prettier. How you can go from the perfection of a 41 Continental front end to this is a mystery to me.
  5. Matt I have used a heat gun and also hot water soak to soften up a stiff belt and anything rubber that was to stiff to install. Also slipping a piece of cardboard behind the radiator takes the pain of knuckle scraps and fin damage away. I recently changed a belt that would have been impossible for me with my arthritic hands without heating it up..lubed it too to get it under the crank pulley. The tooth back belts are much easier but they are not as quite as you have found though belt dressing helps some.
  6. The boiling point of fuel can be increased with the addition of kerosene. It is a useful additive in the prevention of vapor lock. Not sure of the ratio but it was previously discussed and I remember there was info regarding how much to add so a simple forum search should bring it up.
  7. Hi Matt, glad to hear the Limited is getting her groove back. That should improve your outlook on car life a bit. With time all ills get wrestled to the ground. My 41 was driving me nuts with its popping noise forcing me to do things that in the end were totally unnecessary but didnt hurt either. Now running better then it ever has in time for spring is very nice even if all the car shows are canceled this season. I am trying to see what of the three holes your pump rods are attached. Looks to be the middle hole? If so I suggest you use the top hole for the least amount of throw and less fuel from the accelerator pump. The stumble should diminish even more or go away. A slightly higher idle helps as well. This low rpm stumble went away when I swapped the AV 16's for Carter 518's from the 248 motor and in general the motor is crisper in every way and less timing advance sensitive at low rpm. I am convinced the ultimate setup is with the smaller series carbs. Hope you and yours stay strong and healthy and cruising! Lawrence
  8. FYI Slightly loose is better then to tight. I learned from several race tuners over the years that hearing a little tappet noise was a good thing. Very quiet tappets were suspect of holding the valve off the seat when things got hot and higher rpm was in play as in a racing motor. Race mechanics use larger tolerances for that reason. Tight tappets will wear out your rocker shaft bushings prematurely so do not set them by sound! Also I find the cold clearance before startup will be about .017 for a .015 hot clearance.
  9. Hi Matt, I hope your holding up under the pressure. I definitely am concerned about sales and values so you must be freaking out with your large investment and overhead. On a different topic I am in need of a pushrod for my 41 66s and so far have come up blank. I need a 13 7/16 length and all I am finding is much longer 13 3/4. Maybe you have some used? All the Best, Stay healthy ,Lawrence
  10. Recently I noticed a little surface cracking in my 41 Century exhaust manifold and a tiny bit of soot telling me it went through and was leaking . I got some repair paste at the parts store but after application and a couple of heat cycles I could see the crack appear again in the hardened repair paste. I put some more on the crack but it soon reappeared. On a hunch I took a piece of fiberglass cloth and sliced up a pile of small bits of fiber and mixed it into the paste. I used a fair amount and after chipping off the old paste started anew. After a couple hundred miles and several heat cycles its still uncracked. Seems the fiberglass makes the patch less sensitive to expansion contraction cycles. Good luck all!
  11. Is your coupe a windsor or New Yorker?
  12. Hi Matt, Sorry to hear of more issues with the limited. I am having some myself and its upsetting indeed. I had my radiator recored for about 400$ a couple of years ago and am stunned at the amount you mentioned. I used a great shop on Long Island NY http://caparadiator.com/ Worth sending it to them. Hopefully still as cheap.
  13. several for sale in the Mecum auction..not a rare bike or a fast bike or a comfortable suspension..an acquired taste kinda bike
  14. Just a tip Peter. when using the uni sync you might find the red indicator go's right to the top on the carb with highest draw. You must open the airflow bypass in the center of the tool to get it within a working range. Until you balance the carbs further adjustments are premature. Also you will be making the balance adjustments with the carbs linked by rotating the rod until both readings match.
  15. Hi Peter, The problem of the high idle on my setup turned out to be a gross imbalance of the carbs. I thought I had them very close as Matt had mentioned himself until he checked with the uniSync and it drove just great but when I got around to using my carb sync tool I found the front carb vacuum reading was way higher then the rear and when I balanced them out idle came way down and I had to screw the front idle adjuster in a bit to get the idle where I wanted it. I was surprised it was that far off as I have been driving it for months with a slightly high idle which I actually liked. I think you will find this will fix it.