Datsun 280zx

[Mez]

Hi everyone, I have my eyes on a Datsun 280zx and i am considering purchasing it as the owner does not drive it much and I do not think he cares as he is ready to sell it for 3000$. a quick search on google tells me its worth much more but I am not planning to sell it. I want to have it to drive it as i just love it and the classic thing about it is appealing. Now the problem is i do not have much car knowledge, tbh i have 0 car knowledge when it comes to cars like these. If i have ever had a problem, i have gone to a mechanic and never touched anything myself as it all, engine and wires, looks so scary. So I want to know if i should go for the Datsun and figure things out along the way or its just gonna be a pain? The car for now drives like normal from what i have seen. I really like it and I want to get it but if its only gonna be a hindrance later on i would rather not. Some advice would be nice.

 

[SMB]

I've owned the 240Z, 260z and several 280Zs.  All were fun but the 280s were the best with their fuel injection.   I never had issues with them.   I would just check for rust if it is running now.

[West Peterson]

I hate to discourage you, but if you have no mechanical knowledge and no car knowledge, I would search for a car in much better condition. I think you would only get discouraged by the number of things this car will or may need to get it back into operating condition. I say that based only on the single photo you provided. If you find that it starts right up, and everything works, perhaps the car will be good for you. It looks like it's been neglected to me, tho. 

[TAKerry]

I agree with West. The z cars are def hot right now, however I think that model is a bit lower on the desirability level. For someone with a shop that can do a rolling restoration the $3k price is a bargain. For someone wanting a fun little sports car that will have to pay someone to work on it all I see is money pit. For the money that you will have into it you are better off finding a better example. I have no idea if the t tops are prone to leak in those as some other cars, but if the climate is not as dry as it looks there may be some serious rust issues with the floor. Someone posted a phrase on here that I will try to quote, 'there is nothing more expensive than a cheap car'.

[Mez]

Thanks alot guys this helps, i will go on looking for better options. ❤️ 

Edited April 20, 2022 by Mez (see edit history)

[West Peterson]

Welcome to the AACA Forum, BTW. You may want to consider joining the national club if you have an interest in cars that are 25 years old and older.

[SC38dls]

I owned every Z model from the 240 - 300’s and only had one problem. The right rear tail light shorted out on a 280 and it took time to figure that out. I did find most Bosch electronics are plug and play compatible and are better if you have a problem. The paint on the car does not give us a good evaluation as it needs to be redone. If the car has had oil changes and most if not all of the normal maintenance done that may make opinions change. Give us more information and pics. Is the engine clean or dirty, what’s the interior look like, these pics will tell a lot towards the care given the car. It’s not a fair judgment to you with the info you have provided. If it was near me for that price I would jump on it. Give us the data and we will try to give you an honest opinion. Please realize an opinion is just that, anything can go wrong at a future date. 
dave s 

Edited April 20, 2022 by SC38dls (see edit history)

[Gunsmoke]

I don't think you could go wrong at that price (likely marketable at twice the price), as long as you understand you are buying a 40 yr old car. From what I see, and based on your note that it runs normal/fine, I would buy it and take it to a good reliable shop for a full checkup. They can give you an honest assessment of it mechanically (or you could do this before a purchase)(brakes, tires, exhaust, suspension, fluids, leaks, rust, timing belt, etc), typically takes about 1 hour of their time and you know what it will cost to have it a reliable "driver". Then you know how reliable it will be and what little things need to be kept an eye on. Were it me, I'd drive it just the way it looks (as a survivor car) for a couple of years, cars last better if they are driven regularly. Then if it serves you well, you still enjoy it, then you can contemplate getting it refreshed (paint etc). At any point, you should be able to get your investment back, and have not had too much disappointment. I had a 300ZX for 15 years, great car, very high quality car, and that helps keep these cars popular. 

['38 Dodge Mel]

I was about to ‘pile on’ with a response but see that Gunsmoke said all that I would have said.   My suggestion is to buy it, enjoy it, drive it, and if it becomes too much for you then sell it.   You will easily get your money back (as long as you don’t start down the restoration road), and will have a blast in the meantime.  Be prudent, but don’t be afraid.  

 

Ps. I own a 1980 280ZX Anniversary edition. 😁

Edited April 20, 2022 by '38 Dodge Mel (see edit history)

[alsancle]

Do not confuse the value of this car with the earlier models. The earlier cars are much more popular and bring much more money.

 

Previous posters gave you good advice, if you don’t know what you’re doing do not buy that car.

[DrData]

We have a 1981 280ZX which my wife will only part with over my dead body.  We have had it since new and it has run reliably for us.  In terms of mechanicals, other than normal maintenance items, we have needed to replace the O2 sensor; the steering rack (developed a leaky seal) and the brake master cylinder. The only other piece that has gone wonky is the AM/FM/Cassette unit and the power antenna.  Since we don't miss the music, we have not had the difficulty traced and repaired. The cloth interior is pretty bad but it is scheduled for replacing in the coming year.  The only problem with these cars is getting parts. Both the O2 sensor and the steering rack were professionally rebuilt parts and the master cylinder was a modified Wilwood unit.  NOS or drop-in replacement parts are very scarce as Datsun/Nissan made many changes over the model years.  For example, the master cylinder fit only three model years, 1979 - 81; GM probably made a billion master cylinders in their line up over the years, all virtually identical and interchangeable.

 

That said, it is a reliable, comfortable cruiser, driven daily as all our cars are.  The one you are looking at may be a diamond in the rough... paint looks like it has suffered weathering, but the mechanical may be in good shape for a driver.

[Laughing Coyote]

3 hours ago, alsancle said:

Do not confuse the value of this car with the earlier models. The earlier cars are much more popular and bring much more money.

This is true.  The prices have jumped on the earlier ones.

1977 Datsun 280Z Two Owner Nissan - $24,000 (Downtown Tucson)

[Fossil]

 I was working for Datsun when the Z cars were new. The 240's and the 280's were good cars. The 260's not so much so. That was when they were trying to operate the emission controls by vacuum. I don't remember why but the 260's just never performed as well as the others. 

Also remember that the plastics in cars back then were not up to today's standard ands tend to deteriorate faster and may be hard to find good replacements for. 

[Ed Luddy]

The major issue with this car is RUST. Before any money changes hands someone needs to get down and dirty and really check out the chassis.

 I still really like these cars, but the large majority of them rusted away over 20 years ago up here in the land of salt and snow.

[keithb7]

I don't think I've ever heard a person engulfed into the car hobby, use the word "Hindrance" in a topic related to car ownership. It just comes with the hobby. They all need effort to keep them driving. Time & money. Which do you have more to give to the hobby? What one person may consider a hindrance, another might be excited about rolling their sleeves up to dive into and solve. Many of us have countless hours in our old cars. We love it and we'd be happy to tell you all about it.

[TAKerry]

2 hours ago, Fossil said:

 I was working for Datsun when the Z cars were new. The 240's and the 280's were good cars. The 260's not so much so. That was when they were trying to operate the emission controls by vacuum. I don't remember why but the 260's just never performed as well as the others. 

Also remember that the plastics in cars back then were not up to today's standard ands tend to deteriorate faster and may be hard to find good replacements for. 

Interesting. I had always thought (and probably read it somewhere) that the 260's were the pinnacle. My recollection was that they had more power than the 240's and by the time the 280's came into being they were becoming luxo sport cars. I had a friend in school that had a 260 his mother bought new. That thing was a blast. Our band teacher bought a new 280 every couple of years. I rode in that car with him on several occasions. I knew several people in that era with Z cars and they all loved them. I tried to buy one around 1984 but the cost difference with my trade was more than I could afford. They were great cars and I would love to have one if the stars were aligned. 

[1912Staver]

260's had problems like Fossil stated. I was also a mechanic at the time. But not at a Datsun dealer. General Sports Cars. Mainly British but also the Japanese cars our Triumph, TVR and Jag customers had as wives or second cars. 260's were even more prone to vaper lock than 240's. Often as a cure we fitted the 2" S.U.'s from Rover 2000's. Seemed to do the trick as far as the carbs went at least. 240's are the purest, 280's are the most refined as far as my experience found. 260's seemed to wear the big bumpers the worst.

Edited April 20, 2022 by 1912Staver (see edit history)

[Buffalowed Bill]

I owned a 1973 240Z. I also had a friend who had a 260Z. In order to meet emissions standards Datsun/Nissan went to a Hitachi lean burn carb. I remembered the early carbs as being SU's which I guess they were. In trying to remember I pulled this off the internet. It might be too much to read but it answered the the question why the 260 had it's problems. I just used duel Webbers on my car and never looked back.

Understanding Datsun 240Z SU Carburetors – ZCarGuide

[Pfeil]

3 hours ago, TAKerry said:

Interesting. I had always thought (and probably read it somewhere) that the 260's were the pinnacle. My recollection was that they had more power than the 240's and by the time the 280's came into being they were becoming luxo sport cars. I had a friend in school that had a 260 his mother bought new. That thing was a blast. Our band teacher bought a new 280 every couple of years. I rode in that car with him on several occasions. I knew several people in that era with Z cars and they all loved them. I tried to buy one around 1984 but the cost difference with my trade was more than I could afford. They were great cars and I would love to have one if the stars were aligned. 

From 1971-1974 all manufacturers had a tough time with emissions and drivability. For 1973 Z, Nissan changed out the SU carburetors for a similar side draft pair of Hitachi F carbs to help bring down CO-HC emissions. In 1974 the emission standards and safety became even more stringent and in order to overcome the added weight and a choked horsepower 2.4 the engine was enlarged to 2.6. The 260 was plagued with terrible drivability issues especially in hot climates with engine surging issues due to vapor lock to hot start, and hot soak issues. I remember many days at Death Valley doing hot weather testing trying to help solve these issues. Several kits were devised to help correct the problem. For 1975 the emission standards became even tighter, and the day of the carburetor and conventional exhaust system was over so the 1975 Z had a enlarged engine again (now a 2.8L) with Bosch Fuel injection and a Catalytic Converter. The converter was a godsend because it allowed the engine to be tuned for drivability again and let the Catalytic Converter take care of the excess tailpipe emissions.

Original SU type carbs;

 

Hitachi F SU carbs for emissions;

   

[John_S_in_Penna]

Thank you, forum members.

Your responses are interesting, and I'm learning.

[Fossil]

If you want to find a real sleeper get yourself a Datsun 810. As I recall they had a detuned 280Z engine  and looked like Grandma's grocery getter. In later years they became the Maxima. 

 

 

 

Edited April 21, 2022 by Fossil (see edit history)

[Mez]

Amazing responses, feeling alot more positive, i will gather more info and will be back here again. Thanks to all

[carbking]

7 hours ago, Fossil said:

If you want to find a real sleeper get yourself a Datsun 810. As I recall they had a detuned 280Z engine  and looked like Grandma's grocery getter. In later years they became the Maxima. 

 

 

 

Or the earlier Datsun 2000 with the optional Mikuni package. They resemble an MG-B, and run like a Corvette. They also have a real frame, so rust is less of an issue.

 

Jon.

[60FlatTop]

On 4/20/2022 at 7:43 AM, Mez said:

If i have ever had a problem, i have gone to a mechanic

Do a search of the forum for the phrase "my mechanic". He's quite a guy from reading the experiences.

[Pfeil]

13 hours ago, Fossil said:

If you want to find a real sleeper get yourself a Datsun 810. As I recall they had a detuned 280Z engine  and looked like Grandma's grocery getter. In later years they became the Maxima. 

 

 

 

The Datsun 810 was updated to the 910 as the years progressed the 910 turned into the NISSAN/DATSUN Maxima. It still used the L-28 and used a modified version of the bullet proof L371B three speed automatic. This modified version had a extra planetary gear set and it was called the L4N71B, a four speed automatic.

 910 MAXIMA

This is the time period when NISSAN-U.S.A. was trying to loose the European numbering system for it's cars. It was also a time when the DATSUN name was also being phased out to just NISSAN. For those who think this was confusing just remember when you looked at the data plate on any DATSUN going back to 1931, the car tag always said NISSAN LTD. FYI this also applies to the INFINITI brand.

THINK-Remember a Chevrolet or any other G.M. car including Cadillac is a G.M. car.

  

Edited April 21, 2022 by Pfeil (see edit history)

[Pfeil]

BTW, the 910/Maxima had a diesel version of the L28. L28 is a very robust engine (a seven main bearing six cylinder) made even more sturdy in diesel form which is why many Z race cars used its bottom end for racing. Called the LD28.

 

[Fossil]

16 hours ago, carbking said:

Or the earlier Datsun 2000 with the optional Mikuni package.

Designated the SLR-311 and noted for their performance. The down side to them came when you had to work on them. Very cramped engine compartment and as I recall the transmission tunnel wasn't much better. Once raced one with my Formula S Barracuda and was in 3rd gear before pulling ahead of him. That really got my respect. One of those cars I would have loved to own but it just never happened. 

My Brother ended up racing one in SCCA and did fairly well with it.

 

 

 

[Pfeil]

 The Datsun1500/1600/ 2000 is an easy car to work on (I wish my 2012 and 2019 NISSANS were as easy!) The only harder thing to get to is the trans. I prefer pulling the engine / trans together because the roadster has a perimeter frame with a X frame cross brace-like a 1955-57 thunderbird.

The Mikuni carb set up was an optional "competition" package but not street legal. The carbs were just a part of the package with camshaft and other valve train parts. The only place I think it was street legal was in Australia if I remember correctly.

 

Lots of room in the engine bay even for the larger U20 engine.

  

Edited April 22, 2022 by Pfeil (see edit history)

[carbking]

The Mikuni's were legal in at least Canada and Japan. I was in Japan in 1969~1970. Dataplate was different from the factory 135 HP and 150 HP engines.

 

When I got back to the States, I bought one out of Indianapolis that had been originally purchased in Canada.

 

And Fossil, if the one you raced had the optional 5.13:1 rear gear, you might not have pulled ahead of him in 3rd gear  

 

Mine would do low 13's and occasionally high 12's depending on how well I got the tires to hook up. Traction WAS an issue. Datsun had no LSD available, and the Detroit Locker available from Datsun Competition was pretty much not driveable on the street.

 

Jon.

[Laughing Coyote]

There still out there.

 

https://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/d/green-valley-1969-datsun-2000-project/7463287150.html

 

 

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/d/corvallis-1969-datsun-2000-roadster/7473803244.html

 

[JACK M]

The first new car I ever bought was a 2000 in about 71. The dealer (a friend's dad) wanted me to wait for the Z car, but I wanted an open car.

I got a hardtop (for long trips and winter) and a roll bar. Total cost if I recall was $3161.

That thing was way fast, I didnt drag race it, but with the hard top on I outran a 427 Vette on a long stretch. The guy followed me to my next gas stop to congratulate me.

I think we were close at about 120 mph when I shifted into 5th.

Of coarse, being 21 years old it got crashed before I had it a year.

It looked just like the ones above but was a Champaign color.

[Bleach]

23 hours ago, Pfeil said:

BTW, the 910/Maxima had a diesel version of the L28. L28 is a very robust engine (a seven main bearing six cylinder) made even more sturdy in diesel form which is why many Z race cars used its bottom end for racing. Called the LD28.

 

 

I had the four cylinder version of the diesel in an '82 pickup. It was called SD-22 since it was only 2.2 liters. It was a push-rod engine and only had three main bearings so it didn't seem very stout to me for that reason. It was good enough for general use and could get up to speed on the freeway but you had to be patient. It did get really good fuel economy.

[Pfeil]

5 hours ago, Bleach said:

 

I had the four cylinder version of the diesel in an '82 pickup. It was called SD-22 since it was only 2.2 liters. It was a push-rod engine and only had three main bearings so it didn't seem very stout to me for that reason. It was good enough for general use and could get up to speed on the freeway but you had to be patient. It did get really good fuel economy.

The SD22 diesel is not related to the LD28 diesel in it's design architecture. SD22 is a pushrod engine and the LD28 is a OHC engine. 

[Fossil]

12 hours ago, carbking said:

And Fossil, if the one you raced had the optional 5.13:1 rear gear, you might not have pulled ahead of him in 3rd gear  

This made me laugh because while entering the previous post I was trying to remember if I had the 3.91 differential in at the time. But I'm pretty sure that I was still running the stock 3.23's. 

I did not work on the 2000's myself but clearly remember the mechanics complaining about things being cramped. I also recall my brother saying he installed Yamaha pistons in his engine. I believe they were the XS-650 pistons. 

At the time I was the parts manager for the dealership. We had a customer come in and visit with me about a problem he was having with his engine. He had broken two cams and the last while idling in the driveway. He said the first was covered by Datsun and the second wouldn't be covered because they thought he was abusing his vehicle. I asked him if they had resurfaced the head the first time and he said yes. Next I asked if they line bored the cam towers afterwards and he said no. I told him that he would continue to break cams if he didn't get it lined bored as his head had been warped when they resurfaced it and now the cam towers were out of alignment. The guy never came back so I don't know the rest of the story. 😩

[Rivguy]

The 280 ZX is a fuel injected model and these will be less headache than the carbs. These cars have fancy interiors and the plastic and upholstery doesn't hold up that well. Rust is a very big problem and that has to be checked carefully. I had many early Z cars. I found that the '72 dual carb engine was tuned much tighter,( sportier,)  than the '75 and '77 280s. The straight six is a very good, durable engine. Because the early models have been so popular from the beginning many have been preserved and the ones that were parted out supplied the components to rebuild other cars. The 280ZX is a different car from the original, and these have not been preserved and interior components will be harder to source. But if the car you like is in decent shape it will be a fun car. It will make you wonder why Mustangs, Camaros and especially Challengers need to be so big. And I like Mustangs. Good luck.