Gunsmoke

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Everything posted by Gunsmoke

  1. Hate to disappoint you guys but I bought the apple pie for way too much, (yummy indeed, made by a local Mennonite group)) and Ian threw in the mostly complete taillight units. As noted, the center and right assemblies are a bit different, but only in respect to mounting bracket. I am restoring a '31 Chrysler CD8 roadster and have been looking for a pair of correct taillights for 4 years. Car only used 1 but I would like to have a pair for safety and possibly signal lights. As pictured it also mounted to a stanchion , but in Chrysler's case the stanchion also acted as a clamp to hold bumper in place on frame horn. These LaSalle units will make a reasonable interim or even long term alternative, but will mount to underside of frame as LaSalle did. Probably a year away from using them so if anyone has a correct Chrysler unit please let me know, trades are always possible.
  2. IMHO except for the pliers, they are homemade/shopmade tools and quite possibly for grease cap removal on wagons, cars etc or other large fittings that were not ordinarily put on very tight such as tops protecting valves on pressure tanks.
  3. The original factory castings would have been engineered to transfer the stresses of heat and vibration (and perhaps poor bolting up to block) gradually at the exhaust pipe joint including the large tapered intersection (which is also likely thicker as well). The welded on one has no similar "engineering" and any poor alignment, vibration, or overheating, including during the welding process) could result in cracking. I would not trust a re-weld or stitch weld process because the engineering of the intersection is weak, not to mention getting the face of the flanges in perfect alignment would be tough to achieve.
  4. I personally consider a car to be able to be referred to by its original name if the rolling chassis and a majority of it's inners are original, or if the body is original. As for "adjectives" to place, as mentioned they can be numerous, and most of us know generally what they mean. In the Glenn Frey case, I think "re-bodied" is perhaps the best adjective. For the Tucker, "non-factory prototype convertible" will work. Of course "resto-mod" covers a lot of sins, as does hot-rod, chopped, mild custom, clone, and on and on. Manufacturers (or body specialists) themselves back in the day, like Rolls Royce would re-body a car almost any way the owner wanted it, and many of those cars are more highly valued today than they would have been in their original body. Sort of like a "nip and tuck". Not many hard and fast rules when it comes to owners deciding to take some license with the original manufacturers product. Just nice when they disclose.
  5. When I first opened up my '31 Chrysler 8cyl flathead (had not been run in 60 years), it was clear a PO had been trying to solve a valve sticking problem without removing the head. I don't know if the '37 Olds valve setup is similar. The manifolds on my car were loose, and when I removed the side valve covers, all the valve spring retainers had been removed from the valve springs, again by a PO. When I then removed the head, which it appeared had never been off, I found the exhaust valve at #8 stuck solid (took a great deal of effort to pull it out), intake was also very tight, and 5 or 6 other valves were sticking. I had to ream out the #8 valve guide quite a bit (with proper valve guide reamer), less so on the others which were obviously carboned up from some sort of improper maintenance, and made sure all valves stems moved up and down freely. Refaced valves and lapped them in, all is working well now, compression 77lbs-86lbs across the 8 cylinders. I agree with above suggestion that it sounds like a problem with a valve(s) not closing properly. Insure timing is correct or that can also upset compression. My engine calls for timing set when #1 cyl is a few degrees before TDC (piston .006 from TDC).
  6. Chrysler manual suggests setting valve tappets at .011 intake and .012 exhaust when engine is cold and before setting timing. Then it suggests when engine has had timing set correctly, warm up engine and re-set valve tappets at .005(intake) and .007(exhaust) for "quiet valve operation". I was aiming for .007 and .009 respectively, and may have set one or two a bit slacker for cylinder 8. Not a big job to double check them now engine is running well. Without a body in the way, side covers are an easy removal. Next major step is the hydraulic breaks, new kits in wheel cylinders and master, new brake lines throughout, and new linings for some of the wheels (I have 6 good shoes/linings, need to re-line a pair). Oh the fun you're missing!
  7. Try a second compression gauge first. Sometimes the valves in the gauges don't function properly. Make sure all plugs are out during check and that battery gives a good turnover. Usually takes about 3-4 compression strokes to get a good reading and ideally use a gauge with a re-set function (I don't know if they all do). I checked Compression on mine today, friend had a professional quality 2 piece tool, first part was a 10" long hose that screwed into each plug hole and had a quick release fitting to attach a second hose to the gauge, typically needle reading went up to 45 lbs on first stroke (that stroke fills the hose), needle went further to 65-70 on 2nd stroke (pressurizes the hose) and topped off at close to 80-85 on 3rd/4th stroke and stayed there. I'm not an expert on this procedure, others may be.
  8. Today I finished up the tweaking needed on 1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster engine. This is an in-line 8 cyl 240CI unit, flathead, and engine was not run since the 1960's. The internals were previously checked out, and were fine except for the valves which needed refacing (2 replaced) and lapping in. Seats seemed fine. Anyway, new gaskets all around and torqued head to 60lbs. All accessories re-built. Engine started right up (I had it running briefly 4 months ago after re-doing the valves) with only noticeable noise a bit of valve tapping at #8, so I will check that clearance later (they were set at .009 and .007 if I recall). After it warmed up, fine tuned timing at distributor, then shut it off and re-torqued head bolts to 60lbs warm. I then checked compression and it varies from 77lbs to 86 lbs across 8 cylinders, with #5 highest and #2 lowest. Running new 10W30 oil, new 50/50 coolant (no leaks), temp got up to 140, oil pressure started cold at about 35-40 lbs, settled when warm around 15-20 lbs at idle. Ammeter charging 5-10amps at idle. Ran car thru the 5 speeds 4F +R (on jack stands) after topping up transmission with 600W oil and a rebuild of ball/trunnion drive joints. Still using the old oil filter, have a new one to put on eventually. Coolant running clear as glass in rad (I previously cleaned out and flushed block/head). I'm thinking I can sign off on this stage of restoration, what do the experts think? Is compression in decent range for a Sunday driver? Any other thoughts?
  9. He mentions that the steel outer rim is riveted to the wooden fellow at regular intervals, or may be secured with countersunk screws. This is same system used on wagon wheels of the period, the outer steel band is fastened to the wood fellows at regular intervals, usually using a bolt countersunk flush into the steel tread.
  10. Great looking car, and so much original Auburn gear. My Dad (passed away in 1999 at age 89, was a mechanic by trade) was a car fan, and owned a '36 Auburn (Coupe?) prior to joining the Canadian Navy in WWII, thought it was the best car he ever owned. He stored the car while enlisted, and a friend talked him into selling it in the early 40's (a decision he always regretted) while he was still serving his country. He told me he once was walking down a street in Halifax NS Canada (while on leave) circa 1940/41 and came across an Auburn Boattail (or convertible?) parked by the curb. It left an indelible mark on him. About 35 years ago I was driving to work and a mid-'30's silver Auburn Boattail sailed by me in the oncoming lane. I nearly lost control trying to check it out in my rear view mirrors to confirm I was not hallucinating. Never saw it again in all these years, but it's presence that one time was memorable, a large car, with such a small space devoted to the driver. May have been a replica, maybe even a Glenn Prey, but something to behold. I'd buy this one if price was within my reach. For those who have not seen what one of these '36 Auburns looks like undressed, here are some photos I took about 10 years ago when an old friend asked me to give him a hand lifting the body off the chassis of his then under restoration '36 Phaeton. These were a ruggedly built car.
  11. No wallflowers on here. My earliest is circa 1951 with my 2 brothers (I'm in middle) beside someone's Chevy Fleetline? I got into the hobby late, after retiring in 2007, and started with the frame-up restoration effort on this '31 Chevrolet Deluxe Coach, here shown partially completed at my first car show in 2012. I also show my rough but exciting 1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster, a barnfind in late 2014, and the current target of most of my hobby expenditures!!
  12. The 4th is the easiest, 1918 Chevrolet 490 Touring. I'll have fries with that!
  13. The perhaps finest ever American illustrator Norman Rockwell captured the subject in 1935, a picture that may be worth a thousand words! I have this 12x15 print, must get it framed someday.
  14. The rumble seat I figure was largely an after-thought. When the early coupes/roadsters/2 seat convertibles were developed as in essence a sporty personal car, for 2 people, the back quarter varied including the desirable boat-tail, turtle back and trunk. While initially most had a trunk, I suspect at some point someone suggested a pop-up seat to enable carrying a couple of people (likely children) might be an added sales option, and an accessory rack/trunk would solve the luggage problem. Although they are seen in most circles today as highly desirable ( partly due to their rareness and quirkiness), they were not a huge seller, as they are not really practical for adults. So their usage/marketing was short term. Other than an occasional parade ride, I have never seen people riding the roads in one. I have a 1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster under restoration, and once finished, I cannot imagine letting anyone crawl/climb over the body work to get into the rumble seat, not even my grand-kids. As for the previously mentioned "mother-in-law" seat, if I recall that was a term for the earlier cars that had a single occupant seat in center rear of car, and was not a reference used for rumble seats.
  15. I had a look at the actual assembly tonight, and it is much different than the Dodge DC8 shown earlier. The REO Truck setup has a large flange on inner part of hub that lies flat against the drum. Soooo...if it comes apart at all, front flange would need to break free from hub in some manner. Just how it comes apart if at all, remains a mystery. We had several knowledgeable people look at it including a machinist, and still bewildered. Thought that the outer flange may be screwed onto the outer end of the hub, but that does not make much sense. Owner is now thinking he will leave it "as is" since he was only disassembling to refinish the wood spokes. Looks like they could be cleaned up and refurbished in place, they are pretty sound and should last like they are for 100 years or more!
  16. Don't know if it worked, but 4 years ago I went to see a '26 Chrysler that had been restored 20 years earlier and then stored in an unheated enclosed 10x18 shed. The owner had placed 3 or 4 bales of straw in the shed to absorb any moisture. Seemed to do the trick, no signs of any condensation issue or smell of dampness.
  17. This "hub" does not come apart, the hub and outer 12 bolt plate is one piece. The Drum on the other side of spokes is only part that comes off, and then the spokes as a set can be freed from this hub. The drums on these old wheels are a very tight fit to hub, as are the spokes. This photo shows a similar setup (in this case Dodge DC8) and once the nuts are released from bolts, bolts can be tapped out. While they normally then come apart easily, I would suggest supporting drum on a firm flat surface thru the spokes and a couple of hard whacks on end of hub stub (using a brass drift) in the drum should release spokes and drum from hub. A bit of heat on drum next to hub stub could also be tried and should not bother wood much and it is amazing how often a small amount of heat can ease pieces apart. I know the owner and will give him a call.
  18. Not sure why anyone would wear one of these on their car (especially an after-market one) these days, they are usually ugly and not in keeping with the original style of the car, usually hide the nice original grill, don't accomplish much from a performance viewpoint, and most people would never drive these old cars in deep sub-zero weather. Make a good wall-hanger for conversation IMHO.
  19. My vote, same couple. BTW, the angled wood pieces in the house framing are not intended as "firestopping" but are mid-height bracing intended to stop studs from twisting/buckling etc, there by avoiding later problems with drywall or plaster work . "Firestopping" usually occurs at floor levels. Bracing like this is also used between floor joists (often called blocking) and serves the same purpose,, i.e. to keep joists straight and tie them together making for a stronger floor.
  20. OP is among the silliest/wierdest/stupidest ?'s I have seen posted here for a while. Since a valve stem can be in 360 different locations around a rim (or more if you split degrees in half or more), and considering the degree of accuracy one would need to "exactly" park in same spot (i.e. within what tolerance, a millimeter?), the precision needed to even test the theory would be a nightmare. Even rolling a car forward 5 feet and then back would be a major challenge to get in precisely the same spot. I hope next time you wake up in the middle of the night you aren't faced with a more logic based question " If your fish tank has 12 goldfish and all but 9 die, how many do you have left?" LOL
  21. Thanks 36D2-C (sounds like you should be appearing in a Star Wars episode). I contacted the seller and he informs me he did a thorough search thru the old barn looking for the top and any other items the wagon may have had, but found nothing. I may make a visit to the barn myself just in case he missed something. I plan to ease a portion of the seat back leatherette off and would not be surprised if it is covering the original material, and perhaps with some extra stuffing as it appears overly thick. Will let you know. For now, I dis-assembled the wood body from chassis and moved the buggy indoors where I will work on it over the next few months. A major decision will be what to do with the wood regarding a finish/preserving material (and perhaps a different approach to the wheels than to the box). This is especially problematic for wheels. The spokes often rot from the fellowe ends, as water gets in there and gets sucked up into the spoke. If spokes can dry properly this does not cause an issue, but if spokes are sealed with some paints, water gets trapped with the resulting deterioration of spokes and fellowe etc. I understand some owners back in the day liberally soaked the wheels with oil (linseed or other) to keep them protected. Spokes in this unit look like cedar? but I would be surprised if they are. More research to do, any suggestions welcome.
  22. I have not found a makers ID, and I know there were many buggy makers in our province at the time. I owned 2 buggy's a few years ago, one was brass tagged "Eisenhower Carriage Co" with a local address, the second much more well known, "McLaughlin Carriage Co." with an Ontario address, they eventually produced M/Buick's here in Canada starting 1909. I plan to do some further research to see if I can find any similar buggy in records, images etc that may lead to a name. The seat base is leather with a diamond pattern pleats and buttons. Seat back however is leatherette and as shown un-pleated, and while it looks original, after 130 years who knows, but I would expect seat and back to match at least in regard to pattern. I suppose the seat may have used leather since it gets a lot more rigorous use than the back. One curiosity is on the trunk lid. The hinged edge has a 1/2 moon shaped cutout in the wooden lid, about 18" wide and 6" deep? Lid is fully covered with leatherette, so the purpose of this cutout is a puzzle. It can be seen in the photo with the lid raised. any thoughts? I also note buggy at edges of seat back has various brackets that likely held some form of top. I intend to contact the seller to see if there is a chance the top may still reside somewhere in the old barn. The 2HP shaft system appears to be original to the buggy, it's end brackets are perfect fit into corresponding loops on buggy. The single horse shafts don't appear to be original to the buggy. While they fit dimensionally into the buggy brackets, they are a loose fit, and the hardware details don't match the 2HP unit. This might make sense because over 130+ years the 1 horse setup was most likely used 90% of the time and the original shafts (if there were any) would possibly wear out sooner. It's also possible it was only purchased as a 2 horse unit. The spring plies are all locked together due to rust between the leaves and I will plan to either disassemble them or use a spring separator and some lubricant to free them up. Should be a fun winter distraction from spending all my spare time on old cars.
  23. Some articles on-line mention that driving one of these in single horse or double horse was smoother, simpler and safer than riding horseback, which they suggest required much more skill and care. Watching some of the early movies with chariot races gives us a good idea about how brave/reckless/crazy some men were back in the day. Little has changed!
  24. Long before Louis Chevrolet, Peugeot, Panhard and Olfield, and the other early racers, and before Grand Prix's and much later Muscle Cars, I'm sure there were young bucks who loved the idea of racing down the road in the latest 4 wheeler. I recently found this great specimen of those early days in a barn where it had sat un-driven for over 80 years. This one is made more rare because it has hookup options for both 1HP and 2HP drive-trains! For anyone who has never spent much time investigating the fine engineering of these early Roadsters (yes, that's what they were often called 140 years ago), they by this time (circa 1880-1890) had evolved into a very light, sophisticated, hand made wonder, in this instance complete with very slender wheels and both transverse and longitudinal springing. With a total road weight of about 200 lbs, they must have been an easy pull. At the time, professional/stakes racing involved quarter horses or 2 wheel sulkies, but for farm boys and other adventurers, racing down the rural road in a 2 HP hookup with one of these at 20-30 mph perhaps must have been quite a thrill. And what better conveyance for taking your sweetheart to the church hall box social. I have owned several buggies over past 30 years, usually as dilapidated "yard-art" or as flower display bases, but not sure what I will do with this one because it should to be stored indoors in inclement weather. I would like to keep it's 80+ year old patina like it is, will explore some options for preserving the wood, de-rusting some of the fittings. The grease in axle ends is hard as rock, evidence it has been parked for a long time. Photos will be in 2 batches.