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Can this work?


nick8086

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The garage  is going in the back yard..  I will have 100 foot path to it.. But it will curve.  so half of the garage will only have 14.5 foot of driveway behind the garage door..  Before you hit the retaining wall.

I was always told you need 25 feet in front of the garage to use it daily.. to back out or turn.. It will be 816 sq ft in size and 240 sq ft loft.. or 1056 more space to store my stuff..

 

 

Edited by nick8086 (see edit history)
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1 hour ago, Laughing Coyote said:

If the garage is being built then if possible design it where the garage door is farther away from the wall and try to minimize the curve of the driveway.  Pictures would help of what you're trying to accomplish..

 

 

The door will be on the side. i did not pay 400.00 for the design plans.. I trust the builder.. it is  not hard to picture a square box..   My back yard is already marked up with spray paint and flags..

 

They start in two weeks.. I just need the space.. I know I may have to move two cars to get one out..  My wife has never got to park her car in a garage for the last 30 years.. Because of my toys..

 

Next year is going to be a first for her..

 

Here is a picture of the basement of our house.. It has a ramp to put cars in the basement.. Since the basement is finished.. not an option.. today..

 

Google Fred Roth cars - he is the only one I know of that parked is cars in his house like my dad.. 

 

 

bas3701.JPG

Edited by nick8086 (see edit history)
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Sorry, but I still can't understand your question, or how you plan to get a 15 ft car into a 14 ft space without four-dimensional physics, but that doesn't matter. Just take the car to an empty parking lot, lay out your proposed garage and driveway with traffic cones or cardboard boxes or something similar and just try it.

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The door will be on the side. i did not pay 400.00 for the design plans.. I trust the builder.. it is  not hard to picture a square box..   My back yard is already marked up with spray paint and flags..

 

They start in two weeks.. I just need the space.. I know I may have to move two cars to get one out..  My wife has never got to park her car in a garage for the last 30 years.. Because of my toys..

 

 

Nick 8086 I note your above comments.  So if you have already marked it out in your backyard then I assume you would have already tried to get your vehicle in and out of the available driveway space.  If it can't be done why would the build start in two weeks? 

Edited by Stude17 (see edit history)
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48 minutes ago, jerry k said:

Set up some cones, garbage cans, or whatever according to your measurements  and see if your car fits.

 

I was thinking the same thing as jerry k.  Actual simulation data would eliminate speculation.   My thought was piece of chalk, a tape measure, and the mall parking lot, but on-site experiment with cones or whatever would be even better.

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9 hours ago, nick8086 said:

 

 

 i did not pay 400.00 for the design plans.. I trust the builder.

Big mistake.  Do not trust anyone.  When the project is completed and things do not work out it will be your problem and the builder will be nowhere to be found.  If necessary, delay the start of the project until the details are set to your satisfaction.

 

This entire thread would be much easier to work with if pictures or a sketch would be provided.

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30 minutes ago, 39BuickEight said:

This is what I have pictured in my mind based on what has been said.  If this is right, it would be annoying for right side access, but, if its the only way to do it due to property lines/easements/etc, then go for it.

 

 

IMG_0288.jpg

 

I don't picture anything like that - more like there is only 14 ft between the garage and a wall and the car would need to be angled out of the garage and up the 100 ft driveway.  The OP says that the door will be on the side. From that, I picture a garage with the door facing a side wall, and the driveway runs parallel to that wall (and 90 degrees to the door). 

 

But then, the OP COULD just show us a similar sketch and eliminate all the guesswork. Of course, where's the fun in that? 🙄

Edited by joe_padavano (see edit history)
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44 minutes ago, 1937hd45 said:

Zoning or your neighbors will kill it if they don't like it, this AACA Forum is the wrong place for the original question. 

 

The original question was about turning radius. How is that not appropriate for this forum?

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2 minutes ago, 1937hd45 said:

Guess you don't have zoning in your town. How long was the wheelbase of the vehicle in question? 

 

 

 

I guess my "reading between the lines" skills are not as good as yours. I don't see any reference to zoning questions in the first post.

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17 hours ago, nick8086 said:

...  so half of the garage will only have 14.5 foot of driveway behind the garage door..  Before you hit the retaining wall.

I was always told you need 25 feet in front of the garage to use it daily..

 

No, the 14.5 feet will be not nearly enough

to maneuver any car in or out of the garage.

The measurement of 25 feet is better, but

28 or even 30 feet is more appropriate.

 

With 14.5 feet, you can at least use those bays

for storage or for the lawn mower--but not for cars.

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9 hours ago, Stude17 said:

 I did not pay 400.00 for the design plans.. I trust the builder.. it is not hard to picture a square box..  

 

Just as in car restoration, building construction

can have many different levels of quality.  The houses

or garages you may admire in magazines are not

likely the ones the average builder constructs.

 

Good designs may have specific moldings around the

doors and windows.  They may have specific moldings along

the eaves and up the rake, selected for appropriateness to

a certain architectural style and for good proportion.

They may have 5/8" plywood roof sheathing, not

1/2" oriented strand board.  If any trim is aluminum wrapped,

it may be 0.032" thick and look very solid, instead of 0.019"

or an even worse builder-grade.  This gives an idea of

various levels for EVERY product in the entire building.

 

Your builder may be honest, but he is not an engineer,

architect, or probably not an accomplished designer.

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Nick,  the opening of my garage is 17 feet back from a rock wall, the available space inside is 10 feet, my Studebaker is right at 18 feet long, and I can only back it in, and it almost always takes two "moves" to get it straight. My wife won't  even try it.  That was all I had to work with, and thankful for it, but it is more than a little trouble.   Oh, the rock wall doesn't have any "give", ha !

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52 minutes ago, John_S_in_Penna said:

Grimy, I'll have to disagree with you on this one item.

As an engineer, I can state that it will NEVER work.

OK, John_S, if you say so.  I'm not an engineer, but have 60 years experience backing into areas (the turning wheels at the opposite end of 'normal', if you will) which I could not get into with the nose (turning wheels) forward.  Visualize backing into a tight space in a parking lot from a narrow lane.

 

Actually, I'm surprised we're all wound up attempting to answer this question which has inadequate information.

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5 minutes ago, Grimy said:

OK, John_S, if you say so.  I'm not an engineer, but have 60 years experience backing into areas (the turning wheels at the opposite end of 'normal', if you will) which I could not get into with the nose (turning wheels) forward.  Visualize backing into a tight space in a parking lot from a narrow lane.

 

Actually, I'm surprised we're all wound up attempting to answer this question which has inadequate information.

Excellent point, is the "wall" on the neighbors property of the OP's, that may be the answer to the problem. 

Edited by 1937hd45 (see edit history)
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2 hours ago, John_S_in_Penna said:
11 hours ago, Stude17 said:

 I did not pay 400.00 for the design plans.. I trust the builder.. it is not hard to picture a square box..  

Just as in car restoration, building construction

can have many different levels of quality.  The houses

or garages you may admire in magazines are not

likely the ones the average builder constructs.

 

Good designs may have specific moldings around the

doors and windows.  They may have specific moldings along

the eaves and up the rake, selected for appropriateness to

a certain architectural style and for good proportion.

They may have 5/8" plywood roof sheathing, not

1/2" oriented strand board.  If any trim is aluminum wrapped,

it may be 0.032" thick and look very solid, instead of 0.019"

or an even worse builder-grade.  This gives an idea of

various levels for EVERY product in the entire building.

 

Your builder may be honest, but he is not an engineer,

architect, or probably not an accomplished designer.

 

For the record John S in Penna I was quoting Nick 8086.  They are not my words. As for Nick's builder there is no information to make any valued judgement as to his level of expertise.

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18 hours ago, nick8086 said:

i did not pay 400.00 for the design plans.

If you have any drawings or plans at all scan, photograph, copy or whatever and post here so we can have a look.  I too had a hard time trying to figure out what you are trying to do and I look over my wife's shoulder a lot as she draws house plans professionally.  I'm thinking you have just 14.5' between the garage and the wall, and your side garage doors will open facing that wall.  Is that right?   If you don't have plans will that affect getting the necessary permits?  Is the wall yours or a neighbors? Normally there are property line set-back restrictions that zoning certainly would be interested in.  Unless you live in the Australian Outback or Alaskan frontier, others will be interested in what you are building.  Just following this out of curiosity. 

Terry

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11 hours ago, 39BuickEight said:

This is what I have pictured in my mind based on what has been said.  If this is right, it would be annoying for right side access, but, if its the only way to do it due to property lines/easements/etc, then go for it.

 

 

IMG_0288.jpg

 

This is close to it.. But the 100 foot drive is on the right.. I hope to use it for storage.. Since I never drove my antique cars this year.. It may not be tested very often..

 

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If you don't use it often, buy a set of car dollies. Drive the antique straight into the garage. Then put it on the dollies and slide it sideways to the far wall leaving plenty of room for your wife to pull her car into the garage.

 

Don

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19 minutes ago, mike6024 said:

It sounds like Jake's plan would not comply with Los Angeles code, since his "clear space" is only 14.5 feet long.

 

Of course he is not in Los Angeles, but many other places use the same code.

In Los Angeles most folk do not build a 30 X 36 foot garage..  Plus have a three stall on the house..

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1 hour ago, DLynskey said:

If you don't use it often, buy a set of car dollies. Drive the antique straight into the garage. Then put it on the dollies and slide it sideways to the far wall leaving plenty of room for your wife to pull her car into the garage.

 

Don

 

That is my next purchase high end dollies.. I made it big. knowing that I would only have 14.5 feet to play with.. at one end.  We may make it wider and make it 20 foot to pull out.. It still not done.. It is only a change order to the builder.. Most guys may know I do not have to consider how much room to open the car doors.. Three of them side into the car..

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8 hours ago, 1937hd45 said:

Excellent point, is the "wall" on the neighbors property of the OP's, that may be the answer to the problem. 

 

 

The wall is being put in to fix my 6 foot drop from my patio to the back yard..  So they will put a wall around the patio at one end  we will be three steps down to the door on the garage.

 

This is not a garage project.. I am doing  everything in the back yard.. I felt if the back yard was going to be  a mess.. Do all the landscaping all at once.. I will post a picture in Nov..

 

I had three car guys told me to buy a commercial building it would be cheaper..  But I  had a car guy in town..He built a 9 stall garage the cost was 650k. I asked why did you spend that much money.. He told me he always want a man cave to hold his cars..

 

So I always wanted a garage to store my stuff for the last 27 years.. Since I only had a one stall...

 

I was also told I would over build for the neighborhood.

 

 

 

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Well, let's see.  9 stall garage, let's say each is 10 x 25, that's 250 square feet per car, let's throw in another one for workshop, that's a 2500 square foot building.

 

At $650K, that's $260 per square foot.  He must have some damn fine finishes inside and out to get to that price, when the average HOUSE in the United States is $100-150 per square foot.  There has to be more to that story.....

 

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As mentioned,  lay it out,  I used cheap string from the hardware store and stakes then drove my truck inside just like the garage was built to make sure I had room to swing and figure how that space on paper really looked with actual items in it.  

Glad I did,  as that 12 foot door was too narrow so I went up to 16 foot.  Much cheaper and easier to change on paper than with concrete and lumber.   

You also need to make sure you have whatever the town wants for clearances.  Some will not let you get a variance later,  they will make you tear it down and start over. Don't PO the building inspector from the start. 

Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)
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2 hours ago, trimacar said:

Well, let's see.  9 stall garage, let's say each is 10 x 25, that's 250 square feet per car, let's throw in another one for workshop, that's a 2500 square foot building.

 

At $650K, that's $260 per square foot.  He must have some damn fine finishes inside and out to get to that price, when the average HOUSE in the United States is $100-150 per square foot.  There has to be more to that story.....

 

 

That had to include the cost of the property

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