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auburnseeker

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Everything posted by auburnseeker

  1. I think he is going to have to put it on sale though to sell it. Most likely a drastic sale. Franklin made some nice cars but I don't see this one really exciting anyone as presented and especially not at 30G.
  2. Those ancient snow tires on the back tend to say I haven't been a daily driver in many decades.
  3. Hey Steve the new toy is not the Auburn. Something new only Ed knows about and he even liked it.
  4. My 51 Dodge's initials are F P O S. or atleast that's what it's used to being called for the last year. Now my 31 Auburn is named Victoria. It's going to take alot for me to refer to her as anything else. Most the rest don't have names. Though I really need to name the new toy. What do you think I should call her Ed?
  5. Thanks. I'll pass it along so he can wire up the later coil he has to get it running. They can worry about authenticity later if desired.
  6. I can't quite tell where the wires go once they leave the coil on the modern setup. Can you tell me where they are hooked? Thanks for the photo, Randy
  7. I finally heard back from my friend. He did have the car running for about 25 seconds prior to calling me. He shut it off to do something, not related to the problem and it wouldn't fire again. The coil is not giving any fire. The three posts on the top are hot but he can't get any spark out of the side terminal that feeds the distributor. The wire was pretty much bare and he taped it up, but it may be shorting internally? Can the coil be serviced? If not by him, is there someone that rebuilds them? If not, are there original style replacements available? If not that, can and how could a more modern coil be hooked up? I saw a picture on Google images of a 1916 Chevy at Volo I believe that looked like they were using a modern coil. I couldn't really find any good images of an original coil. If someone has one, please feel free to post it so we have a visual. I'm not near the car, it's over an hour away, so I don't have a photo of it.
  8. He's posted several photos over the few times he posted these for sale and they all seem different but from the same batch with the same boxes in the back ground. Being he's trying to only do a local sale, seems the chance of a scam being less. Especially since he won't take my extra money to ship them to me. I think he is hyping the items in hopes of making them seem more desirable. I mean at the price he's at, it's not much of a risk. There are only so many guys buying literature and alot of guys don't like selling it at shows because it gets ruined so easy and alot of people don't want to take the time to stop and dig through a box when there is so much else to see. I think i have someone lined up to take care of it now. Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
  9. So what will the ones I can pick up with my new acquisition look like?
  10. I think he is figuring someone from Reno will drive out to pick them up for themselves. It was on the Reno Craigslist so he wasn't advertising nationally. I just search nationwide for literature and found the listing. To a degree I understand where he is coming from in that he wasn't expecting someone from 2000 miles away to find the ad and want the stuff. That being said though he has dropped the price several times and can't find a buyer. They are really priced right now, though they were a good deal a few months ago at twice the price. If I was trying to sell something and no one wanted it so that I had to price it very low, but someone came along offering me very fair money but I had to do a little more to make the sale, I know what I would do. That's me though.
  11. From the sounds of it there is no fed Ex in his town and sounds like it's a pickup at the door deal. I hate to deal with a non forum member for a 3rd party, unless someone can vouch for them. Been scammed a couple of times in my business by pros and it leaves a bad taste in your mouth.
  12. I can check with him about a shipping store but I think he said his town consists of 2 trucks stops and an exit ramp for the interstate from what he mentioned. For some reason he's a here it is, that's the extent of work I'm doing guy, unfortunately. I've always told the sellers it's alot easier if they handle it themselves than to involve a 3rd party and they'll even make a few bucks doing it. Seems about a 50/50 chance of wether the seller will help out.
  13. Thanks for the kind words and the help with that Hudson lot. I'm very grateful for that.
  14. I even offered to pay him the 200 to ship them above what he was asking but he didn't want to do it. Said I wouldn't have enough margin in it if I did that. Now that really doesn't make sense as I obviously am willing to pay X number for them regardless of what he thinks they may be worth.
  15. Just so members know I'm serious. I would gladly pay $200 for any members effort to do this for me. Plus cover any packing material. Should take about an hour to re box them up. If you live a half hour away, you could make a $100 an hour. They will be paid for so it will strictly be a pickup. I believe the guy said he could even meet you right off the interstate at one of the two truck stops.
  16. I will pass along the info when I hear from him. It's easier if I was working on it myself as I would do the diagnosing, just like I do whenever I have a problem as I could actually see the thing. Not having it in front of me, makes it a little harder. Thanks for the info.
  17. The parts are often in little paper sleeves (remembering from the NOS ones I had at one time) with the part number listed on them. That may be why the seller needs the part number. You might also post a picture from the web and circle the ones you need the numbers for to make sure you are getting the right numbers.
  18. Unfortunately Sounds like they have been trying to start it, so any damage to the rotating assembly vale train is most likely already done if it was at all stuck. I vaguely know the car and have seen it once. I remember the valve train at that time was generously lubricated and I believe he turned it over occasionally.
  19. From what was relayed he sprayed gas directly in the carb with no luck. I have to talk to him directly (I was given the wrong phone number) to see what else he has done. I should be getting that later today. I just wanted to know if there was anything different with a 16 than say a 1930 car ignition wise.
  20. I have a friend working on a 1916 Chevy. He says he can't get it to fire. I'm helping him remotely , so pretty much blindly, and just want to know what I should tell him to check? I haven't had a chance to really talk to him yet but aside from points obviously, are there any particular things to make sure are good and clean? I've never worked on anything older than 1930. I don't think this car has ran in atleast 40 years, possibly even the 1950's.
  21. I found 3 bankers boxes filled (well not really full) with old car literature I would like to buy, but the seller won't ship them. I would be happy to pay any members near there that would pick them up box them into something a little smaller and lighter even if it means twice as many boxes to mail them on to me. I have a postal account and can email or snail mail you pre paid labels. As mentioned, I will gladly compensate someone for their time and any expenses if you need to buy boxes. Could even use the post flat rates if that's easier for you. Thanks for any help in advance.
  22. Zip Strip paint remover works great. I cleaned alot of that factory clear off Korean war chrome. If for no other reason than to reclear with a modern clear. Though the clear will mute the lustre. Lay it on heavy, give it a little time to work as the directions say then rinse off with water. Repeat process until it's all gone. If you are going to put the car in good storage and not use it much in the rain, the chrome will last quite a while. If you are going to leave it out in the elements it will fail in short order. I have only come across one piece that zip strip wouldn't touch. Not sure what it was, but it was tough. Acetone or zylol will work as well, but I like the no touch methid as ther eis less chance of scratching the chrome.
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