auburnseeker

I believe these were used on Harley Davidson motorcycles or service cars in the 40's-50's. With a clear lense they were used as GM optional backup lights in the 1940's. There are some on Ebay right now with the real descriptiona and application. but I think I'm pretty close.

I did Come up with the original part number of 382998. It also fits Desoto 6 1936. It was used as well on the 8 cylinder 1936 Chrysler. Still looking for one though. I checked a few sources and no luck yet.

Looking to buy NEw Old Stock, Reproduction or NORS front motor mount for 1936 Chrysler 6 cylinder C7 Airstream. If anyone can help me out or point me in the right direction that would be very appreciated.

I bought the full professional kit and did my 1936 Chrysler airstream roadster. (intended to do a few friends cars as well) Overall I was pretty impressed with the results. Dry times for the inks seemed to take much longer than stated. It was suppose to take 2 days I think. It was 70 plus degrees for 2 days and the ink didn't want to dry. It eventually took a week to dry and I had to stick it in my wives truck with the windows rolled up in the sun for 2 days to get it to fully cure. The clear coat they recommend dries fast but takes atlest a week or 2 to really cure hard. You can leave finger prints in it even after a few days of curing if you press hard. Took alot more base coat paint than they recommended as well. It took 3 cans to do a roadster, After I switched to like color primer. Still a good product, I would recommend.

I have a 1956 Olds 88 2 door hardtop delete everything except backup lights. I've had for 19 years with a factory Column shift 3 speed. My first old car and I still have it.

That didn't come through with the address completely correct but if you google that you should come up with it.

I found this site some time ago for identifying radio delete plates but it's got wonderful dashboard shots of all makes from the 1930's on up. Sorry nothing on it in the 1920's but still an awesome reference site. Deletes - Identifying Instrument Panels, Clusters & Gauges

I think I may have things almost figured out now. I did notice it cooled best when I had the thermostat in it. Not just the gutted one but the 160 degree one. I actually think the water is flowing through the system (radiator too fast) I have heard of this before. I put the 160 back in and it ran cooler. It got very warm but didn't overheat. I ran it for almost 50 minutes at the shop at idle almost the entire time. I did notice the radiator temperature to be cooler now at the bottom than it was before. I even got daring and drove it about 12 continuous miles today. 55 miles an hour almost all the time up a one mile long hill and although it did run about 200 or so at the hottest point it didn't boil over. I'm running only water at the moment so I know it didn't break 210. I think the next step is to restrict the water flow a little more with another stat and see if I can get it into a more favorable range. I did advance the timing as well but it's now where it was to begin with. I do appreciate the help and advice. It gave me alot of things to rule out. Hopefully I'm on the down hill side of the problem, Randy

I did mess with the timing today. My manual says to just set timing at the IGN line on the damper. Which I did do. It was actually advanced the way it was. Factory setting seemed to retard it some. Does anyone have anything better for a number to set it at. Shouldn't it be a few degress off? I did take my vacuum advance off and check that. It is working and not seized, I also checked my engine numbers and the engine is matching numbers so it is what came in the car new, Not a surplus tank engine. I still have to advance the timing ahead more than the factory setting and see if that makes a difference. I did check to see if it was automatically advancing when the engine is revved and it does. I do appreciate all the ideas. I'm willing to try just about anything at this point. Oh still overheating. Thanks again, Randy

I appreciate the responses. The radiator does flow out the bottom as fast as I can fill it and that's with a high pressure hose on full action. I did examine all the cores I can see and 2 have blockage that even rodding(I was able to get a control cable from an air vent down them will not loosen) I can actually see about 75 percent of the cores through the thermostat hole in the back of the top radiator tank. Even with those 2 the radiator cores not flowing it still flows very fast and actually sucks the water out like a good clean drain when it is just about empty. In my area the work I did on the radiator surpasses what any of the local shops will do. Every time I have taken stuff to them to fix I have to redo it myself. All they do is a quick boil and bad paint job. I did check the radiator cap size out early in the game. It is running the correct RC1 7 pound cap. The rubber is still intact and seals but I may replce it just as a matter of course to eliminate one other factor. I did not run the engine number to see if it is the original cars engine. I will check the timing. Who knows. The only other thing I can think of is the guy I bought it from said he thought his brother did a valve job. Maybe he put one of the head gaskets on wrong and plugged a water hole. (I have new head gaskets already coming) Again thanks for all the ideas. I'll get it back together and do a little more diagnostic.

I forgot to mention I also pulled the thermostat back out and punched the center out then reinstalled it. Still no difference. The engine will cool slightly when going down a real long hill. It takes about 25 minutes at idle to heat all the way to the boiling point. You can't seem to get the temperature to drop at all when standing still even with the engine at say 1500 or so Rpms. It just consistantly slowly goes up and doesn't come down. No bubbles in the radiator or steam /white smoke from the tail pipe. Seems to have plenty of power and pickup on the highway.

I have a 1948 Cadillac Series 62 with the original flathead Cadillac engine. Supposably turnkey when I bought it. I even Checked it out and listened to it run. It was raining when I looked at it so I decided not to take it for a test drive. ( Never buy a car in the Rain) After buying it and Getting it home. I checked everything over. Let it run for 15 minutes or so then took it for a short test drive. After about a 3-4 mile run at 55 MPH ( I took it slower at first) It began getting warm. I decided to turn around and head back to the shop. It started boiling over just as I pulled back in the shop. I shut it down. I moved it a few minutes later( still hot) and it started right up. I drained the radiator and found no Thermostat. ( It must have overheated for the past owner as well which he conveniently neglected to mention. I pulled the Radiator and thuroughly cleaned it. I drained and flushed the block and all the heaters. Then put all new hoses on it. Put a new 160 Thermostat in it. Left it with just water and ran it. Same problem. I got engine flush and ran that through it. Then Removed the hoses and ran water through everything until the water flowed clear with the bottom radiator hose off. Excellent flow in the radiator and left side of the block. Not quite as good on the right. Put it all back together and same problem. I even checked the engine with a pin point digital Heat gun in several locations at a temperature of 175 and everything was within 5 degrees. No hot spots. I Pulled the water pump and it looks like new with no damage to the impellor. I even backflushed through the waterpump hole. I did a Compression check as well and have 100 lbs on every cylinder. What should I do next? Any ideas would be welcome. Thanks in adavnce, Randy :confused:

I didn't think Iwould have missed the plugs when I looked everything over but after getting the lights apart the plugs had actually been pushed in past the edge of the bucket so it looked like the wires actually went right to the sockets. I did see the plugs when I got the headlights apart but I'm pretty sure atleast one of them wouldn't have come out to get apart without gutting the buckets. That would have made it alot easier If they had been visible. I need to take everything apart and replace the rubber seals to the grille shell anyways. Might as well do it right while I'm in there. Thanks for the input though. Everyday seems to be a learning experience on this one. Does anyone know where to get hubcap skins for a 1936 Chrysler C7? Randy

I have an NOS one in the GM box I just listed on Ebay. It's listed as item number 400136326351 You can bid or if you need it sooner we can work something out. Randy

That did the trick. It took a little persuasion but I got them apart. You have to use a screw driver as well to gently pry the lense from the gasket as it was pretty stuck. Nice Auburn by the way. That's what I was looking for when I settled for the Chrysler. Well I guess I atleast get the Auburn Experience with the headlights. Thanks again. It was a life saver. Randy

Thanks for the help. That sounds like it might do the trick. I'll try it tommorrow morning when I go to the shop. Thanks again, Randy

You can also narrow your search by putting the title of the item you are searching in quotations like "1991 Reatta" I had the same problem on ebay and after contacting their useless help links I finally got that answer from an email response they sent me. Hope it helps you out, Randy

I need to pull the radiator on my 1936 Chrysler C7 Airstream roadster, To do this I need to get the headlights apart to fish the wires back through the radiator brackets. I have removed the small screw under the headlight and the headlight bezels will not come off. I have sprayed them and let them soak for a few days with WD40 and have carefully even sharpened a screw driver which I then forced into the bottom of ring on the underside and it still won't come loose. Does the bottom just pry out and then you lift up the ring to release the top or is there something I'm missing here. If they are just stuck they are stuck really good. Please help so I don't wreck the lenses or bezels. I know they are near impossible to find. I imagine they haven't been removed since the 1960's or earlier. Thanks in advance, Randy

The top one is a 1953 Buick wheel I have one haning in the garage. The Chevy one I think may be truck. Early 1950's?