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About Stude17

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  1. For what it is worth I would recheck the brass vacuum valve seat in the diecast metal for looseness. I do not think that "peening" with a centre punch or whatever on the diecast metal to hold it is any real or lasting fix. I would also check your oil to see if it is diluted with fuel.
  2. Check that your fuel tank cap vent is not blocked.
  3. DB 26 I would suggest that if the vacuum tank is faulty (fuel being sucked along the vacuum line) there is no alternative but to correct this problem first. The problem can be intermittent as sometimes the small brass seat can position correctly and seal but other times it will not resulting in the fuel issue.
  4. Carburetor for 1926 DB? Mpgp1999 replied to Mpgp1999's topic in Dodge & Dodge Brothers For anyone who reads this post and knows about the standardStewart carburetor, there motor lags. The carburetor farts and pops. It is recently rebuilt. I recently rebuilt thevacuum tank because it was pouring raw fuel down thevacuum line. Carburetor for 1926 DB? Mpgp1999 replied to Mpgp1999's topic in Dodge & Dodge Brothers Perhaps Mpqp1999 may be able to help.
  5. Sounds to me like you have a problem with your vacuum tank. There have been posts where excessive fuel in the intake manifold can be traced back to the vacuum tank mechanism not shutting off when the tank is full causing fuel to be sucked into the manifold through the vacuum line. Generally this is caused by a small brass seat coming loose in the diecast tank top and not allowing the needle to seat properly. Have you checked your oil level? When experiencing this problem raw fuel can enter the crankcase sometimes resulting in bearing failure.
  6. Could it be a fuel pressure gauge? Can you show a rear view showing how it is connected?
  7. Keiser is correct. Identified as a Dort by TerryB.
  8. 1927 Chevrolet two door sedan.
  9. Pretty close. 1919 Studebaker
  10. How about a Jackson circa 1905-1907. The front springs and steering look like Jackson to me. Not sure about the chain drive.
  11. Just to add to what Tinindian outlines some castellated nuts (mainly big end and main bearing) I have found to be hardened and to remove the small amount of material I have had to use the side of a grind stone to give it a gentle rub. Main thing is not to take too much off and keep it square.
  12. Side draught and fits circa 1924 Overland Model 91. Possibly others.
  13. With respect to my comment to check the con rod caps for filing by a previous owner if this has been done it would only take one to cause the binding on the crank as you describe. It appears you have rods from a number of different engines eg three No 1's and it is not beyond the realms of possibility that someone in an attempt to extend the life of a worn engine has damaged the caps to extend the life (briefly) of the engine. I'm sure your engine rebuilder will identify the problem whatever it is.
  14. Stude17


    Looks like a circa 1912 overland but no duck bills on front guards?