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About Stude17

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  1. After a bit more research on the internet it is possibly an AB engine and not an AC. As for the gearbox the photo shows it as being too large to match the engine. Other than that they look like a match to me.
  2. Circa 1917/18 AC Mack truck engine?
  3. I have no issue with fitting a water pump, however, it seems to me if you have boil over and hear thumping after 1 or 2 miles there is a problem that needs identifying and fixing and I doubt a water pump will fix it. Apart from what has already been mentioned I would make sure that the fan belt is in good condition and properly tensioned. A check of the head gasket for leaks might be in order as well.
  4. Could be an Ambulance with the roll down curtains, the uniforms, and the bell.
  5. Certainly looks like it to me and could be early as 1939. Good call.
  6. A nut holding speed wrench socket. There is a similar tool shown in the attached link which says it could be used for Model T engine mounting bolts.
  7. Yes annealing your copper washers is the way to go. Heat them to a dull red and drop in water.
  8. I would be asking B&E if they used Locktite or similar to seal/retain the stainless sleeve in the master cylinder. If it is not brake fluid weeping then perhaps there is an issue with whatever was used when pressing in the sleeve and it is not curing as it should.
  9. From my experience removal of these pedals is as Tinindian outlines. The only suggestion I would make is after removing the retaining clip push the pedals onto the shaft as far as possible and with a flat file gently run around the shaft on the end to remove any burr that has formed from the movement of the pedal. Perhaps Spinneyhill can give further information/advice on the type of puller to use and its placement.
  10. Yes this could account for some of it and replacing the distributor drive gear could help, however, unless you want to replace the cam shaft not much else can be done in this area.
  11. I am not familiar with this engine but it appears to me that the shaft with the slotted ends (marked 2 and 3) probably drives the oil pump and therefore would have no bearing on any slop/movement in the rotor. Have you checked the distributor shaft/bushes for wear ? If not this is where I would be looking.
  12. Circa 1960 Mercedes Benz 220SB instrument cluster.
  13. Rick in your original post you state, "The owners manual says the adjustment is via a spring change." I take from this statement that there is no adjustment of the oil pressure other than changing the spring to a different one for various pressure settings ie there is no mechanism to screw in or out to adjust the pressure. If it has been re-installed correctly and it is all clean this should not be an issue in my opinion. I also note that in a later post you state, "I pulled the adjuster out of the side of the block at that time, it looked clean and I put it back in." Could explain what you mean by "adjuster" Before taking any drastic steps to replace the bearings perhaps you could consider draining the oil and refilling with 15W40 oil and see what effect this has on oil pressure.
  14. Circa 1922 Special Six Studebaker Roadster?