joe_padavano

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joe_padavano last won the day on August 3 2019

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  1. Yeah, I was going to say the same thing. They were everywhere in L.A. in the 1980s. Turns out actual CS production was only 4,325 for the 1968 model year. There were a boatload of dealer regional specials. The High County Special, the Ski Country Special, the Dixie Special, the Cardinal Special, the Mustang Twister, etc, etc. http://www.mustangandfords.com/news/mump-1210-special-edition-ford-mustangs
  2. I've done lots of stuff that was stupid. It was still stupid, and I knew better, and it would be perfectly appropriate for people to call me out on it. Frequently I DID get injured, like the trip to the emergency room to remove metal shards from my eye because I was too stupid/lazy to get a full face mask when using a die grinder. What's your point?
  3. About every ten years, someone "invents" an airless tire that looks like this. NASA has been testing similar tires for use on planetary rovers for decades. The lunar rover used on the last three Apollo missions had wire mesh "tires".
  4. This is not "innocence". This is "no sense". One does not need to be a rocket scientist to understand what happens when an airbag goes off. Are there really people who haven't seen videos? And even more to the point, riding with your feet on the dash is a really stupid thing to do even in a car WITHOUT airbags. That position negates the effectiveness of seatbelts. Again, this is not rocket science, it's common sense (which is sadly uncommon).
  5. It surprised me to find that in 1958, Olds built 3249 copies of the Fiesta Sedan wagon (with post) and 8498 copies of the Fiesta wagon (hardtop). The Sedan wagons were all Dynamic 88s. The hardtop wagons were about 35% Dynamics and the rest Super 88s.
  6. Antique furniture that has worn original finish is worth much more than if it's been stripped and refinished. I'm not saying that this should apply to cars also, but your analogy has flaws.
  7. This article was from 2007. They went so far as to create fake rust holes in the fiberglass body and apply rust dust from an old water main. 🙄 https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hdrp-0704-1937-ford-patina-three-window/ It also has a faux Ardun... (I'm still struggling with why you want to run an LS motor that is so ugly that you have to put a fake nose and glasses on it to disguise it).
  8. Fauxtina on fiberglass street rods has been a "thing" for years. I'm not a fan of "faux" anything.
  9. Something that a random person posted on the interwebs is wrong?! I'm shocked, SHOCKED I tell you!
  10. Well, changing the thread topic from valve size to timing gears...
  11. I don't have any first-hand experience with Buick motors, but bigger valves are usually an advantage. The important metric is valve curtain area, the cylindrical area formed by the valve diameter and lift. Actually, the important metric is integrated curtain area over the duration of the valve event. Yes, you can get equivalent curtain area with a higher lift cam with more aggressive ramps. The problem is that this puts additional loading on the valvetrain, potentially requires different springs, causes piston-to-valve clearance problems, etc, etc. Proper valvetrain design requires consideration of all of these effects - along with the actual airflow of the rest of the port, since it's meaningless to improve flow at the valve head if there is more restriction in the port further upstream. As for this particular situation, I'm sure the machine shop is trying to avoid any possible liability for turning your vintage heads into scrap. I'd suggest asking a forum more attuned to performance mods on Nailheads, like v8buick.com.
  12. First, it IS a "rube goldberg" design. There are valid engineering reasons why no one operates brakes that way. Second, I have no problem with clever, innovative, low cost engineering solutions. Using "poor" as a rationale for doing something half-fast (especially brakes) is BS. Third, if you really are unemployed, spending $2500 on a non-functioning Rolls is very poor judgement. You'll have $10K into that car and it will still be half-fast. $2500 buys a whole slew of interesting cars that don't require a dramatic investment or sketchy redneck "engineering" to get running. You clearly don't want to hear solutions that aren't yours. Have fun. I won't bother you any more.
  13. What exactly prevents you from installing a conventional M/C and booster? Is it a space issue? Photos would help. There are a boatload of innovative brake system components for street rods. I can't believe that a Rube Goldberg design with a pull cable is a better choice. Have you looked at a hydraulic Hydroboost instead of a vacuum booster to save space? FYI, the remote booster you have tried to fabricate in your first attempt is called a Hydrovac (completely unrelated to the Hydroboost) and has been used on cars and trucks since the 1950s. You can buy them new. This is a Hydroboost. Note that the combo valve can go anywhere; it doesn't have to be hung off the side of the M/C. Hydraulic power for the Hydroboost comes from the PS pump. You can also adapt many other master cylinders, including remote fill styles. There are kits for under-floor mounting, right angle mounting, etc, etc. This is a Hydrovac, which uses a small remote hydraulic master cylinder like the one you first tried. This one is a diaphram style vacuum booster. This one is a piston style vacuum booster. These are commonly used on medium duty trucks now, but were very common on cars in the 1950s. The diaphram one above is for a 1956 Ford.