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joe_padavano last won the day on October 14 2017

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About joe_padavano

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  1. Welcome and congrats on the purchase. Unfortunately, I've found that many people (especially younger ones) only want to get information for free. The factory service manual is the best "tool" you will ever buy. Don't waste your money on Haynes/Chilton/Motor manuals. Only get a factory manual, which is much more comprehensive. Also, don't waste your money on a PDF or CD, or reprint. There are no electronic originals of manuals that old, so any electronic version you see today is a scan of a paper original. Even if the scan doesn't have any pages missing (and many do), the scanning process loses detail on items such as wiring diagrams. Get an original only. There are about a dozen of these on ebay right now, with the least expensive one at $9.99. You'll likely want a wiring diagram also.
  2. The vac modulator has zero effect when starting off from a standstill. Your suggestion of the hose would be appropriate if the trans didn't upshift at part throttle. From the original post:
  3. When was the last time you changed the filter? A restricted filter can cause a delay, and as the fluid heats up and thins out, the problem will seem to go away. Of course there could be other possible causes that require opening up the trans, but this is an easy one to try first.
  4. X2 on I've ordered belts from them and been pleased with product and price.
  5. Romac appears to be a volume production house, not a one-off restoration supplier. In any case, the "chrome" on plastic isn't chrome, it's vacuum deposited aluminum. There are a number of vendors who specialize in restoration of "chrome" plastic parts for restorations. Here are a few. There are others. I'll also note that it IS possible to put real chrome on plastic parts. You first use vacuum metalizing to deposit a conductive surface on the plastic, then you can copper/nickel/chrome plate as with any conductive part. Paul's Chrome offers this service.
  6. The brake fluid didn't cause the corrosion. The water retained in the brake fluid caused it. Brake fluid is extremely hygroscopic.
  7. I'm guessing you don't live in the northeast. 😉
  8. I've bought seven cars from out of state in the last decade. Most of those have been from the desert southwest because I refuse to deal with rust anymore. It definitely requires building trust with the seller. In every case, I've sent money orders or used electronic means (yes, even PayPal) to pay before delivery. My most expensive purchase was $8000, so not $20K. In all cases, I got extensive photographic coverage of the car before sending money. I spent a lot of time talking to the sellers. You can get a feel. Only one time have I been disappointed (and that was a $2900 car). For $20K, buy a plane ticket.
  9. That is extremely simple to test. With the key in the RUN position, simply unplug the wire from the temp sender and ground it. If the bulb lights, every part of the circuit except the sender has just been tested successfully.
  10. Depends on whether you are talking about a 68-69 car or a 70-72 car.
  11. Heavy duty emissions vehicles (defined as GVW over 8600 lbs) were required to have cats starting with the 1987 model year for gasoline engines. The OP has a 1989 van.
  12. The temp sender simply closes a switch to ground when the coolant temp exceeds the setting (typically 258 deg on 1960s GM senders). The ignition switch has a set of contacts that closes to ground when the key is in the START position, which mimics the function of the sender. That wire joins the sender wire on the ground side of the bulb.
  13. You need the pump to be turning with the engine running, not just cranking it on the starter.
  14. So have you disconnected the high pressure hose from the box, put it into the top of the pump reservoir, and seen if fluid flows?
  15. No, not for the Saginaw pump. It's been the same internally for about 3-4 decades.