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joe_padavano last won the day on August 3 2019

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About joe_padavano

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  1. The definition of "clone" in this context is "a word that sounds less offensive than FAKE." Of course, like "numbers matching" and "classic," people who use these words typically have no clue what they're SUPPOSED to mean. For example, how can a car that never existed (like a Faux Four Two built on a notchback Supreme body) be a "clone"? How can an engine be "numbers matching" if it isn't even installed in a car?
  2. HAHAHAHA. Good one! In any case, no one had even heard the term "color temperature" in the early 70s, let alone be able to give you a reading on headlights. The original headlights were incandescent sealed beams. Light output was horrible. I don't even think you can buy them anymore. The modern halogen replacements are brighter and whiter in color. I wasn't kidding when I said that your best bet to get this data is to get your hands on some vintage T3 headlights and test them. This chart is from Hella Lighting. Note that incandescent isn't even on the chart. It would definitel
  3. The easy way to think about this is, if you disconnect the ground side (leaving the hot side connected) and inadvertently drop a wrench on the hot side that shorts to ground, it won't spark. On the other hand, if you disconnect the hot side (leaving the ground side connected) and drop a wrench on the hot terminal it still sparks.
  4. The switch should go on the ground side of the battery. On a positive ground system put the switch in the positive cable.
  5. When I read a post like this, my first reaction is that someone is trying to market an LED headlight for older cars that isn't annoyingly blue-white. 😉 I'd be surprised if that data was readily available. I can't say that anyone paid attention to color temperature in the sealed beam days, or even knew what it was, frankly. Obviously the older sealed beam lights are well into the "warm" orange-yellow range, so 2700K or lower would be my guess. Just get a couple of vintage T3 bulbs and check them yourself.
  6. OK, still not the point of this thread...
  7. The issue isn't the fact that they are skip welds. That's normal practice. The original issue was about the fact that the lengths of weld bead that were there looked like crap.
  8. Not my intended point. Engineers (well, competent ones anyway) design for worst-case assembly and manufacturing tolerances. My point was that the stress analysis on that frame was done assuming the worst-case weld quality and penetration that would pass inspection. These aren't precision high pressure or high stress weldments that get 100% xray inspection of every weld and sectioned coupons before and after. The engineers assumed a certain minimum weld quality, and designed for that. The goal was for better than minimum weld quality, but at least if a crappy weld came down the line late on a F
  9. I am not surprised by this at all. The frame welds on every GM car I've owned from the 60s to the 80s look like this. Goobers and spatter everywhere, snotty looking welds, long pieces of filler wire sticking out from the weld. Bottom line is that these were mass production items on an assembly line. The frame is designed assuming a minimum amount of weld bead length and penetration. The fact that these cars didn't collapse on the street from flawed welds tells you that the engineers did their jobs. These are not parts of the car that were visible to the buying public, so why spend any time on
  10. Here ya go. Only $109. 😲 https://www.hdchasen.com/threaded-tap-916-22
  11. Sorry, but that casting number is a 1977-1981 260 Olds. Clearly not original, and since it has windowed main webs and other features for light weight, it isn't even a good boat anchor.
  12. Three weeks and the OP hasn't been back to this thread. I say we stick a fork in it.
  13. Why? The 292 was an available option in the 61 Galaxy. I'm guessing that the OP is trying to replace his original 292 with that one from a 1959. Of course, more info from the OP would let us provide a useful answer.
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