joe_padavano

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joe_padavano last won the day on October 14 2017

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About joe_padavano

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  1. joe_padavano

    My "new" lathe - Input?

    Seriously cool. Nice score.
  2. joe_padavano

    What does original mean?

    Right up there with "numbers matching"... 🙄
  3. joe_padavano

    1964 Oldsmobile Cutlass Holiday 330 4v restoration

    There are multiple answers for you, depending on how much work you want to do. You can sand and paint the parts in place, removing as much of the items like wiring and trim as necessary. You can disassemble the parts and paint them off the car. You can sandblast and powdercoat. Only you can decide how far you want to go and how much work you plan to put into this. Without photos, and without an understanding of your skills and capabilities, it is difficult to suggest the correct path.
  4. joe_padavano

    1964 Oldsmobile Cutlass Holiday 330 4v restoration

    The early 60s were an unusual time for Olds CSMs. The 1961 model year saw separate manuals for the full size cars and the new F-85 line, and then a Starfire supplement. There was no 1962 stand-alone manual, just a supplement that only covered the changes for the 1962 model year, so you need a 1961 manual AND a 1962 manual. 1963 was all in one. 1964 was the five volume set shown above. 1965 was a two volume set that was essentially the Chassis Service Manual and the Body manual. In subsequent years, you needed to get the Olds CSM and the Fisher Body Manual. Of course, by the 1980s, there were separate electrical manuals since there was so much wiring.
  5. joe_padavano

    1964 Oldsmobile Cutlass Holiday 330 4v restoration

    I would suggest that you get a factory Chassis Service Manual before disassembling the car. The radiator core support is one piece. You need to remove the front bumper, grille, headlights, and radiator to remove it. Removing the hood and fenders makes it a lot easier. The top bar does not come off by itself. Once you remove this, you will change the alignment and fitment of the hood and fenders. The core support is attached to the frame horns with bolts through rubber pads. These usually compress and deteriorate over time, and rust usually means that the bolts need to be cut off. Reproductions are available. Did I mention you should get a Chassis Service Manual? The 1964 manual is a five volume set.
  6. joe_padavano

    Acura tl 2006 repair estimate

    Kind of what I said waaaay back at the beginning of this thread, at which point many crapped on that and basically said "drive it until it breaks"... 🙄 Frankly, as an aerospace engineer, I have little patience for untrained people who think they know more than the engineers who designed the car. I had to laugh at the people who point to anonymous videos on You Tube as gospel. Yeah, everything on the web is true. Lotsa luck with that. FYI, the owner's manual for the 2006 TL is available on line, so I did check it before my first response (rather than speculating or trying to use examples from unrelated vehicles). The interesting thing is that Acura doesn't provide service intervals for that car. They rely on the onboard computer to tell you when the car needs service, period. I don't know if this is a good idea or not, since it likely does not take into account aging of items on cars that are only driven infrequently. At this point, I've wasted too much time on this thread. Good luck to the OP, whatever you decide to do.
  7. joe_padavano

    What is your preferred degreasing technique?

    My preferred degreaser for steel or iron parts (only) is the cheapest foaming oven cleaner that I can get from WalMart - it's under $3 a can. Unfortunately, this will also remove paint and will etch non-ferrous metals, so I doubt you want to use it on an assembled suspension and frame like that. I've found Greze-Off to be among the best water soluble degreasers.
  8. joe_padavano

    Olds part?

    Looks like the trim from a 1965 F-85 Deluxe 4dr, wagon, or Custom Vista Cruiser. Should be the piece that goes in front of the RH rear wheel opening (yes, I realize the photo is LH side...). If so, the P/N would be 389572.
  9. joe_padavano

    Acura tl 2006 repair estimate

    It would not surprise me if the estimate provided by the dealer included contingency to deal with a seized spark plug.
  10. joe_padavano

    Acura tl 2006 repair estimate

    Generalized statements are not helpful to a person asking a specific question. And as I pointed out in my first post, I don't own an Acura nor do I know the factory recommended service intervals. Having owned a Honda previously, I suspect that valve adjustment is required. When researching on line, there is no published maintenance schedule for this car. The onboard computer calculates the appropriate maintenance intervals based on driving history and displays codes on the dash. Depending on how the car was driven, by 60K miles it may require spark plugs, it may require air and cabin filters, and it likely requires transmission fluid and brake fluid changes.
  11. joe_padavano

    Acura tl 2006 repair estimate

    Sorry, driving the car until it breaks and ignoring factory service intervals is a good way to prematurely kill a fine car.
  12. joe_padavano

    Acura tl 2006 repair estimate

    I have no idea what the factory recommended service intervals on those items is, but at RockAuto a new brand name PCV valve is about $17 and appears to simply slip into the valve cover and hose. New platinum spark plugs are about $2.25 apiece. I have no idea how hard it is to change them or what equipment might need to be removed to even access them. If valve adjustment is recommended by the factory at the 50K mile mark, it would definitely be smart to replace the plugs and PCV at that time, however the added labor once the valve covers were off would be negligible. I'm guessing these are stand-alone prices for doing each task separately with no benefit taken from the fact that adjusting the valves covers about 90% of the labor to do the other two tasks. The flat rate manual says xx hours to do the plugs and yy hours to change the PCV.
  13. joe_padavano

    Matching numbers Buick super 1949! Advice !

    "Matching Numbers" is one of the most mis-used terms in the auto hobby. The real use of the term is to refer to VIN derivative stamps that actually MATCH the VIN of the car. Unfortunately, the use of these stamps varies with the manufacturer and the year. The practice didn't come into widespread use until the 1968 model year, when the Feds required VIN derivative stamps on the block, trans case, and frame as an attempt to discourage "chop shops" and thus reduce auto theft (and how did THAT work out?). Prior to that, some GM divisions used engine and transmission unit numbers. These were sequential numbers for those individual assemblies, and sometimes these were linked to the VIN through other documents such as the build sheet or Protect-O-Plate. Of course, since the number was only stamped on one component of the engine, all it proves is that particular component is original. As an example, my 67 Olds Delta 88 has a "numbers matching" motor, as the engine unit number matches the Protect-O-Plate, which matches the VIN. Of course, the engine unit number is stamped on the end of one head, which is the only original part left on that particular motor...
  14. Because what good is spending $250K if you can't show it off to brag about it?
  15. The commercial facility where you can store and work on your own car has been tried and mostly failed for decades. When I was in college in the 1970s, I once used such a facility run by Click and Clack in Cambridge, MA, since I had to help a friend change a starter in the middle of a Massachusetts winter. That shop didn't last long. More recently, one here in Sterling, VA lasted about a year. The fundamental problem here is the cost of liability insurance. You have no idea of the skills that each potential user has, nor any idea of that person's safety ethic. Suffice to say that anything from a scrape on up in severity will be the facility's fault, and subject to some sort of legal settlement. Do the users bring their own tools? Are they using a facility lift? What about a torch or other fire starter? The general public by and large are idiots and any stupid mistake that they make will have a trail of ambulance-chasing lawyers looking for the deep pockets. Release forms are worthless - they are too easy to get around.