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DLynskey

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About DLynskey

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  • Birthday 09/12/1943

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    South Carolina Lowcountry

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  1. A true statement, not hype. That's why Packard attached this warning sticker to the air conditioning units in their wartime cars. Don
  2. Rear view of a stock 1928 coupe showing the tai light and license on the spare tire rack. The car across the street in the last photo is a 1925 or 1926 Chevrolet 4-door sedan. Don
  3. Good eye, Kiser. You just sent me on an internet search. As expected on the internet many coupes and cabriolets are misidentified, but it seems the coupes and 1927 cabriolets have door handles between the two moldings and the 28 cabriolets are below the moldings. Maybe the door handles interfere with the folding window mechanism. I don't think I've seen an actual 1928 Sport Cabriolet. Maybe someone else here knows. Looking closely at the original photo the paint and pinstripe on the front and door don't match the rear body; likely it was damaged at some point. Also there appears to
  4. Your father's car is a 1928 Chevrolet Sport Cabriolet (convertible). The one in the Google photo is a coupe. The cabriolet had a folding top and a rumble seat. The coupe looked very similar but the top didn't fold and a trunk, no rumble seat. A close look at the coupe shows that the doors had a solid frame around the windows. The closeup of your dad shows the lack of the solid window frame in his car. Chevrolet had always had a roadster with a folding top and side curtains and a totally different body than the coupe. By 1927 most makers were offering a "cabriolet" which had a foldi
  5. Then you're way ahead of some of the folks we get inquiries from on this forum. Many just inherited an antique car, know nothing about mechanical things but think they can just put in a battery (a 12 volt is usually handy), start it up and make a good profit. (Jay Leno would probably love to buy it). We have learned to assume that's the case with newcomers and start with all the warnings and basic steps to help them avoid destroying something right off the bat. I hope we haven't insulted you with elementary suggestions. Don
  6. My wife's grandfather was in his late 80's when he moved from Tennessee to North Carolina to be nearer his relatives. To get his NC license he had to start from scratch with the written test, vision test and driving test, all of which he did with no trouble at all. As he was walking out of the DMV office he handed his license and keys to his son-in-law who had accompanied him and said "You take these. I'm through driving. I just had to know I'm still able." What a classy gentleman! Don
  7. Not mentioned yet because it should be obvious is the title situation. Do you have a clear title? Without a clear title it is basically a parts car, albeit a good one. Often on a car like this the parts are more valuable than the car as a whole if someone is willing to take it apart and list them on Ebay. Don
  8. Turn the engine to be sure it's not seized, don't try to start it without doing some cleanup of the gas lines, oil pans, etc. I wouldn't bother with brakes or tires either. It will cost a few hundred dollars and you're not likely to get it back. It's a desirable body style and, I hate to say it, but the most likely buyers will want to add disc brakes, oversized flashy wheels and a late model drive train. I'm not a Buick guy, but I don't believe it is a Roadmaster. Good luck with your sale. Don
  9. "Drivers Ed"? We never heard of that at my small high school; nor sex ed either, for that matter. Somehow I learned both. I learned to drive and took my test in my Dad's 1955 Chevy 210 4-door sedan; 265 V-8 with Powerglide. By that time I had also had plenty of experience with a manual transmission and clutch driving up and down our driveway in my 1928 Chrysler. I wasn't allowed to take it on the street. The driveway was fairly steep and lots of practice taught me how to start smoothly on a steep hill without rolling backwards and down-shift without clashing gears by double clutching. I'm sur
  10. Chris, Thanks for resurrecting this old post. and welcome to the forum. Heck, this post is almost old enough to qualify as an antique itself! You'll find lots of information, help and friends if you hang around here for long. It's probably amazing to some that I'm still around, but I would still like to find my old Chrysler. I sold it around 1970 to James E. Kelley of Canton, Georgia who worked for the Forestry Department. The serial (Fedco) number was W186Y and the motor number, which was the registration number was 86101. I'm not in the market for anythin
  11. Another from Town & Country magazine, Nov 15, 1930 Don
  12. It doesn't matter now that it's sold, but it is a 1952 model, not 1951. Looks like a nice one. Don
  13. 1931 New York Automobile Salon at the Commodore. Photos from "Town and Country" magazine November 15, 1930. Don
  14. Check wire connections, especially grounds. Don
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