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About jdome

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  1. Your car, like most cars, looks a lot better out in the daylight. Even the yellow looks better in daylight. It is starting to grow on me. I'm almost sorry I made fun of it before. I would keep the light top and WW's with yellow wheels too. Contrasting wheels and/or black tires stand out like a sore thumb on a light car, especially under light fenders. I focus on a contrasting color and not the entire car. Cars have a top, body, belt molding, pin stripe, fenders, wheels, tires & interior. Just my opinion but no more than 2 or 3 colors on a Classic. More than 3 and it looks over done. The Auburn looks 2-tone almost monotone outside with brown interior. Just right IMO. You focus on the overall car and not some od color component of it. It could use a subtle stripe of medium or light gray. There's no need for the wheels or stripe to "light up" from 100 feet away. Being forced under penalty of law these past weeks, to spend quality time at home with the wife, we have been watching some old 1930's black & white movies. I've noticed a lot of big, open, early 30's Classics that look almost white so they must be yellow, cream or a light gray or tan. Body, fenders & wheels same color. I would have expected to see more black fenders. Belts seem to be the same color as body or sometimes contrasting. WW seem to be on about half the Classics, mostly open cars. I don't see many WW on non-Classics. As others have said, the car needs a better trunk but would look naked without one. Too much fender behind the body. Just my opinions. If you don't like the Auburn the way it is, I will take it off your hands.
  2. Ahhh. The mind and imagination of an 8 year old and how they view the world around them. I assume those two, blue, square canisters to the right of his space is your grandson's idea of porta-johns with 7 of us old gray-haired men with prostate issues lined up waiting to use the John. Very realistic.
  3. I had an interest in this car so I did a search and found the ad. It's not a $59,000 car IMO. I've been waiting for the right 32 or 34/35 Cadillac Cabriolet (preferably a V12) to pop up but I could go for some other make straight 8 Classic like this with a long hood and short deck. I like that sporty look. Its not the color that is preventing the sale, its the fact that the color is falling off the car. The paint is cracking and pealing off and ironically it looks like it was green underneath. The car must have been flipped by a dealer at some time who believed in the "no sale green" myth and put a quickie paint job on it. Seller made the mistake of taking realistic photos out in the sunlight instead of filtered, color enhanced photos that would hide the failing paint. I also find it strange that the ad includes a photo of a nicely painted, bear engine on the floor but not of the finished engine in the car. It would take most of the $20,000 difference of Matt's Marmon to strip and paint this car right but it is lacking in other areas as well. I'm just a hobbyist and generally hold on to cars. Don't really care about resale values but also don't want to overpay even though I have in the past for "the right car". On the other hand this would make someone a good car who is in to Marmons at about $40,000.
  4. regular, E10, in my area of Ohio is back up to about $1.20 / gal today. Early last week I filled up at .98. Then it dropped to .89 a couple days later. I still had half a tank left but I filled up anyway. I never saw it since they put in digital pumps but the hundredths of gallon digits were going up faster than pennies. I like to run the pump up to even dollars and I actually had to squeeze the trigger several times to move that last penny. At .89 I only paid .33 for the gasplus 170% tax rate
  5. You're too late. It looks like he's talking to a buyer on his cellphone already.
  6. The stuff you probably used was called "Zip Strip". It is still available and I use it for some things but you don't want to chemical strip your wheels. It will just make a mess, soak into old dry wood, and get down in the joints and make more work to clean up. You will also have to wash it all out to neutralize it. Water soaking old wood creates another set of problems. Don't remove the wood from the rims. If you can avoid removing the hubs, don't remove them either because you may have a problem centering them again. I assume that you inspected the spokes & fellos for damage, splits, cracks and rot, especially where the spokes are inserted into the fello and around the rim/wood joint. Wood is organic and biodegradable and its strength can be weakened from damage and overstress. Your wood looks solid and useable in your photos to me but poor wood is a safety issue. You can blast wood wheels with dry plastic media if you know what you are doing. Sand is too coarse and tends to embed in the wood. A good media blast shop that specializes in stripping auto bodies with dry media without warping sheet metal probably knows how to do hard hickory wood wheels. Start with about 50-PSI and test a spot. Increase air pressure 10 lbs at a time if necessary. 70 or 80 PSI may be necessary for multiple layers or tuff varnish. You will need to concentrate with more pressure on the rims to remove rust. Media blasting hickory should remove the paint and a small amount of material and leave the surface equivalent to sanding with 150 grit paper. You may have to touch up a few spots with 150 grit paper but the surface is ready to be dusted off and wipe with tack rag and paint. If you want natural wheels, blasting will remove the light staining that hand sanding will remove but you will have to bleach deep stains. You should also sand the surface more with 220 grit paper. I prefer to brush on marine grade urethane spar varnish direct on raw wood. To paint wheels after blasting, brush in a good marine grade epoxy wood sealer. Fill & sand any gouges and re-seal any areas sanded thru to raw wood. Feel the wood, if ruff, lightly sand with 220 just enough to smooth the nubs but do not cut through into the wood. You can brush sealer because it soaks in and won't leave brush marks. Use epoxy auto primers on sealed wood & metal rims. NOW is when you finish sand between coats and you may only need to sand once, then finish as you would paint fiberglass. You will save yourself a lot of work by media blasting and keeping liquids away from wood. That includes any automotive paint solvents until you properly seal & epoxy coat the wood. I made a stand out of 2 X 2 lumber to hold a BBQ rotisserie motor to turn 2 wheels at a time. Its the only way to spray wire or wood spoke wheels.
  7. Try it some time. You can put the negative symbol in front of a common word in those annoying adds and no add with that word in the title will show up in your search.
  8. Type " -fits " at end of your ebay search such as: 1932 auburn -fits That will get rid of all the disk brakes, tilt steering columns, and power steering pumps that fits your car.
  9. $65 is maybe top end today. $80 just a couple years ago for a really good one and a legitimate 09-11 Demi Tonneau is the most desirable model. Not only does the top go down but the back seat comes off. I was watching another thread about green paint hurting the re-sale value of cars. What does a bustardized model/year mongrel do to the resale ???? Although this one is painted in "RESALE RED" so does that move it out faster????
  10. Coker is not the only source for wheels. Cadillac went from 34X4 tires in 1911 to 36X4 in '12 so that is an obtainable set of original 28" rims at Hershey. I would prefer to find good, solid, original rims & lock rings if you know what you are looking for. It looks like the car has the correct hubs so you just have to find correct rims. I have Stutzman in Ohio re-wood my wheels. I had a smaller set for 28X3 done last year for $200 each. 36's may be more like $300. He told me about 6 weeks and they were done in 5. I don't know about how their prices compare but their work is as good as anyone else's and you don't have to put up with any of that "take-it-or-leave-it" prima donna stuff. This is not a model T but nothing is unavailable for 1 and 4 cylinder Cadillac if you look for it or have deeper pockets than you need for a model T. They made 8,000 to 15,000 of the 4's per year so lots of parts out there. Someone is always gathering orders for another run of heads & copper jackets. If you buy a couple for insurance, you'll never need them. Having said that, the heads are not the only issue with 1 & 4 Cadillac. They are infamous for their hinged con rods and gears or anything that turns on a shaft is pinned to it and that is a long term wear problem you need to stay ahead of. In other words, its a typical brass car. You can click on "lot description" on the auction and it will bring up a little more info on the car. The engine # is 65109. According to my records that is about 1/3rd into 1912 production of engine #61,000 to 75,000. The "VIN" is 42046 which is probably the car serial number and a more accurate indication of production date but Cadillacs are documented in the early years by engine. The engine # and $50 can buy you a build sheet on this car from Cadillac Archives. The build sheet will tell you the body type, paint colors, tire size/brand, options, etc. that were mated to the engine, and the date it was shipped to city/state. The car is described as "older restoration to paint & interior. engine rebuilt 2002" (whatever that means). The auction house claims that the car was appraised by "Auto Appraisal Group LLC." I'm not familiar with them but it is interesting that they describe the car as "circa" 1912. You have to request a copy of their appraisal. I'm convinced its not a legitimate car in that Cadillac didn't build one like it in 1912. That doesn't matter to some people. There are lots of model T's out there made up of favorite black vintage bodies with earlier brass radiators & lamps with bigger & better late engines. This is a Cadillac version.
  11. I have a 1912 Brochure and other factory and published materials and there is no indication that Cadillac made this Demi-Tonneau as a 1912 model on the 1912 chassis. I went to the auction site and looked at photos and it is definitely a 1912 chassis with the bigger 40 HP engine, with bigger hubs and axles than 1911, even though the 11 & 12 have the same 116" wheel base. This car also has the new for 1912 electric start battery box and mechanism and missing the 11 hand crank hardware. The 12 wheels are also bigger than 11 but the wheels on this car have been replaced, probably model T. Cadillac of this vintage have very distinct oval shaped spokes and these are too round & fat to be correct. Also the lug bolt count doesn't mesh and the hub is obviously too large for the spoke center. This is a 1911 Demi-tonneau body. The Demi and roadster bodies used the long sweeping front fenders and short running boards like this car has. Other body styles had shorter fenders with longer running boards. Spare tires should be mounted at the right running board at front where it meets the front fender. In one photo you can see the mounting brackets for the tire carrier still riveted to the chassis too far forward for the long fenders but where they should be for short fender/long run board. That also convinces me that the 1912 Chassis left the factory with some other body on it with short fenders.
  12. Yes & no on the side lights. 1911 Cadillacs were equipped with Gray & Davis #934 lamps but they had the "CADILLAC" script with "Made by Gray & Davis" embossed on the cap. Standard was brass, nickel plated was optional. Plain lamps like yours without a car brand on them were for after market sales or were used on lessor brands that didn't pay for branding. Cadillac built 10,000 cars in 1911 so it is likely that the no-name lamps may actually be more rare than "CADILLAC" script lamps.
  13. I agree that you don't want a green car but with yellow you are limited to maroon/burgundy range or apple green or dark green (not medium green) stripes & wheels
  14. I did a photo shop on your car with black walls and top down. Looks appealing that way.
  15. Auburns had a "Freewheel" feature or freewheeling that would disengage the transmission (at hi speed) if you let up on throttle so engine doesn't slow you down as it normally does. That might be what the "hi spd driving" knob is for.