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Everything posted by jdome

  1. I have two complete sets of "AUTOMOBILE QUARTERLY" Books for sale including all volumes plus the extra, special addition books. Excellent condition. Price is $1,750 per set plus shipping. Shipping will be heavy & expensive and sent in multiple boxes OR FREE HERSHEY DELIVERY if pre-sold and pre-paid. Cell 330-323-0586 or reply to ad
  2. You could still have your 12v system but use 2 - 6v batteries in series. Tap the 6v starter off the grounded battery. Having said that, I don't know what electrical devices you intend to put on a brass car other than gages & bulbs? 6v gages & bulbs are just as easy to find as 12v.
  3. This looks like Dick Shappy's stuff ???
  4. I see some 4-cylinder teens stuff in the pile too.
  5. Not necessarily so if the epoxy has been sanded or scuffed it will absorb moisture & oils including fingerprints. But I agree that a coat of primer, preferably epoxy, is your best bet. Leave it skinned over.
  6. I learned the oven cleaner trick from the painter that hand letters our company trucks & pin strips my brass cars. When we had to change our area code about 15 years ago we had to re-letter our trucks. We called him in and he used Easy Off to remove the old "One Shot" enamel paint, the paint that most of us use for striping. Since then I always use it to remove the lettering off company vans before we trade them in. The dealer used to deduct for "Remove & Repaint" from trade-in value. I can tell you it works on removal of enamel without damaging factory finish. It will leave a dull residue you will have to wax off but it won't damage the finish. It may affect air dried repaint jobs but not factory finish. I can't tell you how it will work on latex house paint but it is worth a try. You are not going to be able to scrape it off if it has dried in the hot sun for several days. And you certainly can't buff it off without buffing through the clean finish next to the spill. .....Easy Off..... It works.
  7. Try "Easy Off" oven cleaner. Spray it on, wait a few minutes to soften then wipe it off. I use it to take old enamel lettering off trucks without damaging the vehicle finish. Don't do this in the hot sun. I suggest you test a small spot first because I don't know how it will work on house paint.
  8. I'm not an expert. I happen to have a 15 Cadillac 7-passenger like the one on your card.
  9. It is probably a 1915 type 51, the first year for the first generation (15-17) "Cadillac 8". It is a V8 but Cadillac referred to it and marketed it simply as the "Cadillac 8" as it is referred to on the post card. They began to use the V8 term in advertising in 17 but it wasn't heavily marketed as "V8" until 1918 when they came out with the first true "flathead V8" with the removable flat casting. Each bank of the first 8 was a big 4-cylinder jug. The car on the card is the 7-pass model. It is difficult to determine the exact year from this front view because the 15-17 look very similar with only miner differences. Oddly, the 15 had small cowl lights like the one on passenger side but the light on the driver's side looks slightly larger - about the size they went to in 16 or 17.
  10. Simon, This is a common problem with the 4-cylinder Cadillac. There are various cures. Do a search for the Early Cadillac Yahoo Group and join up. Pose your problem there in the discussion forum and you'll get the advice you want. The ECG is a great site for pre-1915 Cadillac 1 & 4 cylinder enthusiasts.
  11. John - I just sent you a PM to purchase the 05 Cadillac body. Will pick up at Hershey. Jeff
  12. At the end of each shift rod (link) is a rubber bushing. It is like a grommet with a inner metal sleeve. Your rubber bushings are rotted and need to be replaced.
  13. I agree with Dobbin. The mass of the chassis, wheels, bumper & hood look more like US truck power of the 30's. Any number of commercial body makers (US or European) could have made the bus body on US chassis. I tried to blow up the photo for better detail but it is too dark & blurry. I can make out what appears to be a 2 or 3 inch wide chrome band on the upper side of the hood, the length of hood, with possible block letters that would be consistent with International and a few other US manufacturers of the time. I can make out just enough blurry marks to spell "INTERNATIONAL" too. Perhaps if you can get a better scan of the old photo and try to photoshop it, you just might be able to verify my best guess.
  14. That dozer is a rare (read expensive) pedal car but I have seen those at Hershey. I have been looking for a powered version that size. "KittyTrak" made by Lenox in 60's. I have a 5 year old grandson who is fascinated with construction machinery. He needs one to "help" his mom & dad work on the yard.
  15. Unique method to buff the chrome.
  16. I would look at the copper wire itself and certainly the plumbing in that house too. My father also had a new house built about the same time and about 7 years later the copper pipes began leaking. They turned black & splotchy, similar to your wires, and develop tiny pin holes. There was a problem with Chinese copper piping that was too thin walled and had impurities that caused the "copper" pipes to actually rust out.
  17. Not that I should steal the thread but I replaced 20 - 8ft tubes in 10 fixtures with LED's. Best investment I made in my shop lighting. You can buy 4 ft LED tubes that will work with some florescent ballasts but 8ft have to rewire the fixtures and by pass the ballasts. Good idea. Apparently some of my ballasts must have been going bad. Turned off the power to wire sockets direct and a couple ballasts were too hot to touch. I don't know if they were a fire hazard but I feel safer without them now. I bought clear/day light tubes. Extremely bright. You want them at least 10 ft above the floor. You can also buy frosted tubes that produce a white/yellow glow similar to florescent. They are supposed to outlast florescent 10 to 1.
  18. There were only 400 flat head V16's built between 38-40
  19. Harry, would you have spring specs that go back to 1903 Cadillac?
  20. If you have problems finding the engine # send me a PM and I can email you a diagram of the # location and a list of #'s by year so you can validate that you have an engine # in the correct year range for your car. You can also find that same info by going to the "Early Cadillac Yahoo Group" web site and you'll find various charts listed in their database. You may have to (free) register to the group to get into the database. This is a very informative and active group.
  21. 1906 is the first year Cadillac had a serial number and plate. The factory screwed the plate to the lower center rear of the body, however for some reason restorers will sometimes mount them on the dash. The "serial" number itself is not the important #. All 1-cyl Cads are referenced by the engine # which is usually stamped on the top edge of the collar at the base of the cylinder head near the water pipe "T". The engine # will also be stamped on the serial plate but the plates are often missing or relocated. The plate is about 1 x 3 inches. You can the engine # and $50 to the Cadillac archives and get a copy of the original build sheet.
  22. What model # is the car? Cloth would be standard, leather would be optional.
  23. Do not use anything other than NEATSFOOT OIL on a leather faced (dry) clutch. You will probably only find neatsfoot oil at a leather shop or a horse & saddle shop. Farm & Fleet type stores might have it. Motor oil may eventually turn the leather to mush and destroy it.