Jasper4247

The truck does not have a fuse box, only the original two glass style fuses on the firewall for the tail light and stop light, hence my question about in-line fuses. I think I am clear now on the hot connection point. You are right, I was confused with the "to battery" designation on the schematic/drawing. Thank you Ben.

Dear fellow AACA forum members, especially those who were kind enough to respond to my question. Apparently, I have committed an egregious error by posting the same type of question on the H.A.M.B forum with the intent of getting all the input that i could get. because of this, it was suggested that I did not find you good people believable. Please know that is not the case; AACA has helped me now and before. Sorry if I offended anyone.

Quick question concerning the ammeter. I spent all day twisted like a pretzel underneath the dash disconnecting all of the old wiring. I will be making several connections to the positive terminal of the ammeter, and I just want to be sure - as one is looking at the back of the ammeter from under the dash, is the positive terminal the one on the left? I tried to see if there was any indication for + , but did not see anything.

Thanks Bloo. Actually, the issue of grounding lights, etc. is what I was concerned about. I will probably just add a frame to body ground connection somewhere just to be sure, before I get this rewire done.

Thanks rocketraider. They are currently braided steel straps.

A question regarding ground straps. The battery in the truck is in it's original position under the passenger side floorboard. There is ground strap from the negative post of the battery to the frame. There is another ground strap from the rear of the starter to the frame ( I assume this is for an engine block to frame connection). These are all of the ground straps currently on the truck; should there be an additional ground strap from the frame to the body, or from the engine block to the body?

Haha. You bet pfloro 🙂

Good points Stude Light. The instructions do show the brake switch wired to the battery - again, I would probably route it to the ammeter. Thank You.

Thank You Ben; I appreciate it.

I am rewiring my 1951 Chevrolet 3100, and retaining the 6 volt system. I am adding turn signals to the truck, and purchased a turn signal switch from United Pacific. The instruction sheet shows that I have to run a wire from the + terminal on the 3 prong flasher to the battery with a 15 amp in-line fuse between. Can I just run the wire (with the in-line fuse) to the ammeter instead? Also, regarding the in-line fuse: This will be 16 AWG wire. I see some in-line fuses advertised as being 12 volt. I did not think that voltage mattered in a fuse, but was the amperage that mattered. Am I wrong? Can an in-line fuse advertised as 12 volt be used in a 6 volt system?

Thanks TAKerry Florida certainly would be a great place to buy when you think about it. I think this RV thing is his wife's idea that he is desperately trying to suppress😀 I will, however, advise him that FL would be a good place to look. Heck, a trip to FL from PA in Jan/Feb would be a plus.

Terry, I did Duck Duck Go it (I never use Google) and that is where I found the BBB article that I forwarded to my friend. The OP (me) was never going to choose to follow through with anything; just gathering info from an excellent source (AACA members) so my friend could make his own rational choice; and, once again, I thank all of you for your input. The OP (me) would never consider buying/owning an RV. A Hudson Commodore 8 -YES; an RV - NEVER

I forwarded a Better Business Bureau article to my friend dealing with this exact issue of escrow and shipping companies being scams. He sent me a text about two hours later stating that he was not going to pursue this any further. 60FlatTop - enjoyed the story about your Hudson Commodore 8 buddy.

Thank you for all of the replies. Actually, a friend called me about this because he is considering purchase of a small RV that he came across on the internet. He called the guy who said he posted it on behalf of his mother. He stated that he was selling the vehicle through this escrow and shipping company (Payward Logistics) and explained to him how it works. (He may have misunderstood about the seller eating the shipping costs). But, I never used a setup like this, and advised him to be wary. Thought I would post it here just to see if anyone used this company or something similar. I would not. When I bought my 50 Merc, I flew to Texas to inspect it myself. We are in PA, that RV is in Indiana; not really that far for him to go check it out in person. The company does have an official looking website and appear to be headquartered in New York. He said he may call the New York Attorney General's office to inquire. I gave my opinion and did my part:it's up to him to decide. Thank you everyone.

Has anyone used a company called Payward Logistics in the purchase and shipping of a vehicle. Apparently they hold payment for the seller, ship the vehicle to the buyer, then the buyer has five days to decide whether to take the vehicle. If so, they release the money to the seller; if not, they come back and pick the vehicle up at the expense of the seller. Is this company legit?