Akstraw

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Everything posted by Akstraw

  1. Looks like the lever might adjust the gap. I have no knowledge; just speculating having looked at the diagram. Begs the question, though:. Why would you want to adjust the gap?
  2. It seems in the last few years there has been a backlash against white walls. Many poo-poo them as non-authentic extravagance, or not representative of the mainstream. My observation is that, while probably the majority of cars were sold without them, manufacturers more often than not advertised their cars showing white walls. In AACA, my understanding is that we pursue having cars presented as delivered by the dealer. Thus, if they were available as a dealer option, then they are okay. If they are shown in period advertising, then they should be acceptable. My personal opinion, though, is put the tires on the car that YOU like, and the heck with what anyone else thinks. I think they look great on my 1930 Franklin, but not on my 1922 Marmon; though in period ads, the Franklin shows black walls and the Marmon white walls. Go figure.
  3. In some strange way, it works. Agree that the tailgate/backend needs something to blend it in better.
  4. Count me as another Optima fan.
  5. Skip Haney in Florida has put modern ' guts' in two original coils for me for my 1922 Marmon. I might suggest you contact him and see if he can help you. i believe his site is www.fordcollector.com.
  6. I suggest that you try Jerry Chase at JoVal Machine Company in Connecticut (formerly called Lab Threads and Gear Works). He is a brass car guy, and specializes in making things like this.
  7. They seem legit, though for a $179K purchase, I might spring for the plane ticket to Miami to check them and the car out in person. Many Porsche dealers offer a pre-purchase inspection service, which includes checking the Porsche database on the car (all for a fee, of course). I have purchased a Porsche sight-unseen from an independent dealer, but I paid the local Porsche dealer to do a thorough pre-purchase inspection on the car first. Checking the dealership out with the Better Business Bureau is very easy to do as well.
  8. I am interested in acquiring a car like this. For that reason, I will withhold comment on value. If/when you or the heirs get beyond valuation and are serious about selling, please let me know. Andrew
  9. Don't know for certain that they would have them, but the first place I would look would be Kanter Auto Products.
  10. The answer is simple. You need a larger garage.
  11. Of course I believe it. I accept all advertising product claims without question!
  12. I was thinking the same thing as jerry k. Actual simulation data would eliminate speculation. My thought was piece of chalk, a tape measure, and the mall parking lot, but on-site experiment with cones or whatever would be even better.
  13. I had a similar problem once, not on a Cord, though. I finally put on one of those conventional gear clamps, as well as permatex, tightened it up and drove the car. I re-tightened it when the engine was hot, and ran the car again several times over a period of a week or so. Seepage was gone. I then switched back to the original style clamp when cold. It has not seeped since. I think the old two-wire clamp did not apply as much force all the way around the circumference as do the modern clamps. No way to prove it, though, just my suspicion. I also think tightening hot helped the rubber conform to the metal outlets. One downside is that if you tighten the heck out of the ss gear clamp, it will emboss pattern marks onto the hose.
  14. Thank you all for your replies. I do not know why this posted twice, an hour apart. I did not mean to duplicate. Andrew
  15. Does anyone have experience with a firm named EMI-USA in El Paso, Texas for custom cast iron and machining work? I am considering them for a couple of projects. Thanks. Andrew
  16. Does anyone have experience with a firm named EMI-USA in El Paso, Texas for custom cast iron and machining work? I am considering them for a couple of projects. Thanks. Andrew
  17. A few random thoughts: From your description, you are following a sound, logical methodology. I think you have started at a good place; checking for spark. A test meter is your best friend,. As you have outlined, taking one component at a time, understanding what it is supposed to do, and testing it, is the way to go. Process of elimination. Who knows what can go bad in 50-60 years; dirty terminals, deteriorated insulation, and even mistakes by the last guy who worked on it. ignition switch can be tested and/or bypassed. Pressing the gas pedal would have no impact on spark or no spark. Lack of a good battery in the system bothers me a little, but need a real electrical expert to weigh in on that. You can measure whether or not you have good connections by measuring resistance across them. If you don't have a good wiring diagram for the car, it might be a good idea. You can usually find them on eBay for under twenty bucks. good luck!
  18. I have a car with a light tan top, and when it gets wet, it develops rust stains in the fabric. I have had success in cleaning it up using a foaming upholstery cleaner (Tuff Stuff), scrubbing with a soft bristle brush, then wiping it dry with a damp, but not soaking wet, terry cloth.
  19. V-3, eh? I'd love to see one of those.
  20. I think that the key to auction success is in doing your homework, and knowing what you want. Cars are auctioned every week in every state. It is how the car business runs. Just because a particular car has more value to the buyer than to the seller doesn't mean that one or the other is being cheated. It is capitalism in action; supply and demand. You can talk about fairness, legality, and so forth,, but at the end of the day, nobody is going to force you to buy something you don't want to buy, and nobody is going to give you a guarantee on a car that is twenty five to a hundred years old, no matter where you buy it. If you go to an auction with a pocket full of money not knowing what you want nor how much it it worth, then have a couple of drinks to boot, you may come home with a trailer full of regrets. On the other hand, if you have studied the auction catalog in advance, know the characteristics and value(s) of the car(s) you want to pursue, and give each a close look before bidding, you may come home with a bargain. if you have never been, you could go to a couple as an observer, maybe even "game" a couple of cars, before you attend one as a registered bidder with money in hand.
  21. Was my dream car back in the day. I enjoyed seeing the photos of it. Good luck with the sale.
  22. Sad news about George. Over the past 25 years I never brought him anything easy, and he never failed to find what I was after. I could give him a ninety year old part number for a very odd bearing from an orphan car, and a week later a new one would magically appear in my mailbox with an invoice. He was a unique resource to our hobby. I will miss him.
  23. I have had the red top version in my Model A since 2007. Still running strong. Would recommend.