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Akstraw

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Everything posted by Akstraw

  1. It turned out much better on the second try. I got the corners looking the way I wanted them.
  2. Back up to a tree at the top of a hill; chain the truck to the tree, and then drive the tow vehicle and trailer down the hill. Doesn't need to be a big hill, just enough grade so the truck doesn't roll back into the tree when it comes down the slope off the trailer.
  3. You might try contacting the Classic Car Club of America (CCCA). The Horch is on their "Full Classic" list, and perhaps they could query the member database and tell you how many their members have.
  4. I am not buying the “60 mph” claim on a 1912 electric. 20-25 mph would be more like it. I am currently completing the restoration of a 1918/32 Detroit Electric. Will be showing it at Hilton Head this November.
  5. When selecting the type of registration plate and insurance to obtain, I think it is important to consider how you will be using the car. Pennsylvania law states: "It is unlawful for any person to operate a motorcycle or vehicle with antique, classic, vintage, collectible or historic military vehicle registration plates for general daily transportation. Permitted use shall be limited to participation in club activities, exhibits, tours, parades, occasional transportation and similar uses. Occasional transportation shall mean no more than one day per week." You will find that many of the "collector car" insurance policies have similar restrictive wording. If your intended use of the car fits within the restrictions, then you can save some money with 'antique' plates and 'Collector' insurance. You might also consider what you want to protect with the policy. Of course, the state requires you to have liability and perhaps other, such as medical cost, insurance. As purely a used car, an insurance company will place very little value on the vehicle itself, so a 'normal' policy may be all you need if you just want to meet the state requirements. Essentially, this would leave you "self-insured" for your damage or loss to your own car. If this is the case, see a local agent as others have suggested. Yes, you may have to get a 'normal' plate for your 'used car', and be subject to safety inspection, but hey, if it is a daily driver, do you really want to be in a car that does not meet minimum safety requirements? (It has been a long time since I lived in PA, but the law used to require that lighting on used cars only had to meet the standards to which it was manufactured. All other current safety inspection standards applied. Your local inspection station can fill you in on this.) If you want to protect your expenditure on car, then you will need a specialty policy from one of the aforementioned 'collector car' insurers. I don't know any of them that don't have use restrictions, and just about all require garaging. For a relatively low-value car, parked outdoors, you might just accept the risk of property loss, and just go with the state minimums. I agree with the suggestion of going on your parents' or your partner's policy as a possibility. Good luck! Andrew
  6. Jim, Are you in the Pacific Northwest with your rig, or just on vacation? I am considering a car in Oregon that I would need transported to North Carolina. Andrew
  7. Seems like most everyone had one of the big three in the sixties, with an occasional Jeepster or Studebaker. Exceptions were one neighbor who had a Fiat (a 600 I think) and the Avon lady who drove a beat up Volvo 544. Somebody down the road had a Morris Minor. My brothers and I in our early teens thought those cars to be very unusual.
  8. If you know the dimensions, Olson’s will make the for you.
  9. Here is an update on this project. I am in the final stage of this restoration; learning how to do the upholstery as I go. I have had to do most pieces two or three times, but it is coming together nicely.
  10. I had a heck of a time finding suitable upholstery fabric for my current project. One popular supplier told me they hadn’t been able to get wool fabrics from the UK for over a year.
  11. I asked my BMW mechanic/expert about this subject once, because the polyurethane products seemed to be all the rage in the aftermarket BMW community. His opinion, which I hold in high regard, was that the polyurethanes were a harder material, and would cause your metal parts to wear faster. If they were all that great, BMW would have put them on at the factory. He recommended rubber.
  12. I suggest South Shore Bearing in Plymouth, Massachusetts. They have been my go-to source since George at Olcar Bearing passed away.
  13. I think McLaughlin independently made cars from 1907, and in 1908 decided to use Buick engines exclusively. In 1923, the Buick-McLaughlin company was formed between the two, and continued to use the McLaughlin name until 1942, after which only the name Buick was used.
  14. ‘65 Mercury Comet four door, 200 ci six banger with a C4 trans. Had been my Grandfather’s car. Drove it for six years.
  15. I did not realize that mimeograph type technology was that old, but I think you are right.
  16. Interesting, given the year, that the tag is typed, and not handwritten. We take such labels for granted today, but imagine that somebody had to roll this label into a typewriter, and manually produce it. ( …I would think, anyway. Perhaps Haynes had sufficient volume to justify the cushion company having these printed up in volume on both sides.)
  17. George Bachleda at Olcar Bearing used to be the go-to guy and miracle-worker in the bearing field. Since his passing in the last year or so, I have found the folks at South Shore Bearing in Massachusetts to be very helpful. If you might be interested in replacing the original bearing,I would recommend contacting them.
  18. I would say, owning a range of pre-war cars, that I have learned a lot from the relevant Dyke’s and Motor manuals for the corresponding years. For some particular cars (I am thinking my Model A, and my Franklin), there are strong and active clubs supporting the marque, and some resulting in-depth publications and discussion boards as well. (Marmon owners are blessed with an unusually in-depth tome by Hanley & Hanley; truly a remarkable work.) Original Owner’s and Maintenance manuals are valuable info sources,too. I like the AQ articles and similar publications, but I find (don’t shoot me) that they can be strong on the business history of a manufacturer (which I do find interesting) and short on useful technical detail, if that is what you are after.
  19. When you consider that guys like Henry Ford built their prototypes and early models in their garages, one might think it could be done.
  20. Thanks! I’ll let you know how it turns out. (By the way, I saw at Hershey the R&L you restored; just one month after I bought this car. Your work inspired me to pursue a high standard, though I must say that has resulted in me doing most tasks twice.)
  21. Here is another question; same car. It has a top cover of rubberized fabric similar to a Model A; "long grain cobra". I think I erred in installing this during the winter (i.e. colder temp.). I bought another piece of fabric to try again. I want to eliminate the ripples along the sides, and possibly avoid some or all of the fold-overs at the corners. Are there any tips to install this? I am thinking tack it on the front center, then stretch to the rear and tack it. Then stretch from side to side and tack it in the center. Then pull the corners down and see if I can stretch around the corners smoothly without having to double it over. (Or... should I stretch it over the corners in in x-fashion first, then pull the front, back, and sides.) Any advice?
  22. One perspective is that it is just another variation on resto-modding; an electric motor instead of a SBC. Updating powerplants in old cars has been around since the end of WW2, but it hasn't resulted in the demise of the preservation and authentic restoration hobby yet.
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