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joe_padavano

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Everything posted by joe_padavano

  1. All of these products are just phosphoric acid. Read the MSDS sheets. There are less expensive ways to achieve the same results.
  2. It's called "chipboard", "door panel board", or "cowlboard". Google automotive chip board. Here is one of many vendors.
  3. Let's get to the heart of this matter. The reason why both antique registration and antique car insurance are less expensive than for conventional cars is because both come with use restrictions that limit risk. Either you accept those limitations in exchange for the lower cost or you pay the higher cost for fewer restrictions. In the case of insurance, the insurance company is in business to make money. They will do everything they can to reduce the chances that you will make a claim, because that increases their profits. That's how a business works. If you don't have a conventional daily driver, they will assume that you will be using the antique car more than the mileage limits allow. If you don't have indoor storage, they will (correctly) assume that there is a higher risk that the car will be damaged. And don't expect to get collision insurance for an older car on a conventional policy, since their actuaries have no way to quantify the potential accident repair costs for that car. There is no current flat rate manual that covers an antique car. There is no ready source of replacement body parts. How can an insurance company even begin to calculate risk and premiums in that situation? That's why antique car insurance puts severe limits on use - if you aren't driving the car in daily commuter traffic, your accident risk goes down to a low enough level that they can accept the risk. Common sense, people.
  4. |Fenders, radiator core support, headlight mounting, wire harness, and likely other things I'm not thinking of.
  5. In 1975 the Salon was available as either a hatchback or a four door. Yours appears to be an Omega S, not a Salon. The S package was available on the base Omega, which was offered in a two door, four door, or hatchback. The S package included the four spoke steering wheel and the SuperStock III wheels. See the writeup in the lower RH corner of this page from the dealer brochure. The second character of the VIN will be a "B" if the car is a base Omega and a "C" if the car is an Omega Salon.
  6. There were civilian trucks made in limited numbers for essential needs. They didn't have the chrome, however. There was a recent thread about this.
  7. The pickup could be 1941-46. Grilles were the same.
  8. The swap meet has been sliding towards earlier in the week for years. The last time I went on a Friday (some years ago), a large percentage of the vendors were packing up by noon. You see the same thing at Carlisle. Even many of the large commercial vendors are packed up and out the gate by noon on Saturday there.
  9. Apparently Glenn's [SARCASM][/SARCASM] HTML codes aren't working... 😁
  10. If it's this one, it's a model 161.21056. If no one here has a copy, there are a couple of Craftsman tool groups on Facebook.
  11. There was one at the Fall Carlisle auction a few years ago.
  12. Again error on my part, sorry. I didn't realize that Garage Forum only let members see images. I downloaded them to my computer and hard loaded them into my prior post. Third time's a charm. 😁
  13. Operator error on my part, sorry about that. They should be visible now.
  14. There's a whole lot of stick-welded cast iron farm equipment still being used. A good welder knows to use the proper nickel rods. The cast iron base on my floor model drill press was stick welded 20 years ago with no special heating or cooling and it's still working just fine.
  15. Our local Ace posted a sign that they will not warranty or replace Craftsman tools. Frankly, I refuse to have them replace my 1980s-vintage US-made with new imported versions anyway. The "crab claw" open end wrenches are just one reason why.
  16. I think we're curious how one can make "personal observations" without ever, you know, actually going into a store and observing. Look, no one gives a rat's patootie if you buy HF merchandise or not. Your money, your choice. It's just that some people find it curious that folks find it necessary to pontificate on line about topics with which they have zero actual hands-on experience.
  17. Oh yeah it does. In fact, Section 179 (enacted by Dubya to help jump start the economy after 9/11) allows you to take 100% of a depreciable asset in the first year, as opposed to having to follow the depreciation schedule. This was the "Humvee" deduction were everyone was buying expensive SUVs and depreciating them under Sect 179 as a business expense. When I had my small company we depreciated a lot of tools and equipment under Sect 179.
  18. Mid-1980s Ford Ranger and Bronco. https://www.ebay.com/itm/323050994540
  19. ^^^THIS. Assuming no major rust repair or body work, a high quality paint job will be $10K-15K-or more, assuming you are having the shop do the disassembly, prep, and reassembly. If you're looking for driver quality, that will obviously be less. Again, not knowing what repairs are needed prior to paint or what level of quality you want make it difficult to provide a useful answer.
  20. Hobbyists also typically don't have the ability to write off overpriced tools as a business expense on their taxes.
  21. So is NAPA. What's your point? If I can buy Moog from RA for the lowest price delivered to my doorstep, why is that a bad thing? Frankly, I'll take a recently-manufactured rubber part over a half-century old NOS part for a car that I plan to actually drive. Same goes for fuel system parts - NOS won't be ethanol-tolerant rubber. Yeah, I'd LOVE to use non-ethanol fuel if the nearest seller wasn't an hour each way. Frankly, your money, your choice as to where you get parts. My point is don't badmouth people who are making value-based decisions. You can get crap parts from the OEMs (ask me about the heater control valve that I got from a dealership that lasted all of one month). RA and other discount vendors certainly sell low-grade parts. They also sell the same quality parts that you can buy elsewhere for more money. An informed shopper can get the best value.
  22. In which case the prior comment about restorers using RA instead of "brand name" suppliers is kind of meaningless, isn't it?
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